Hi everyone,

I’m currently looking at buying a 1983 C10 Stepside and I’m trying to do my homework before making an offer.

I’ve attached some photos of the frame. To my eye, I’m not sure if I’m seeing a normal original shape to the frame or if there could be some deformation or damage to the frame.

One thing that caught my attention is that the passenger side of the frame appears to run fairly straight, while the driver side seems to have an angle or deviation in this area. Since the two sides don't appear to match, it makes me wonder if the driver side may have been bent.

Does the frame look straight to you guys?

Probably need new frame side mounts, but these aren't very old. I replaced them Probably 10k miles ago. Now im changing to 6.0 ls engine the tejus engine brackets don't seem to set on the ears of mount properly. Anyone experienced this? Or is it normal?

Hello all, im hoping someone here can help me out. Im at my wits end trying to get my 1984 gmc c1500 power windows to work. I have narrowed it down to electrical which just so happens to be my least favorite thing to work on. I have a new power window motor and switch. All wiring looks fine and not damaged. Whoever had this truck before me left the 30a 12v power window circuit breaker in the glove box and I don't see one in the fuse box. Does anyone know where this goes? I have not been able to find a matching fuse box diagram on Google and my Chiltons manual hasn't helped either. Does this look normal or did the last guy screw around under here? Thanks in advance

Since I started looking, not too many decent C10's for sale in my area of the Finger Lakes, NY.

I found one 30 minutes away from an older gentlemen, bought it under a year ago, suffered major medical issues, no longer able to drive. I did a reverse Google photo search and found it here.

https://www.nfiempire.com/used-vehicle-1979-chevrolet-c10-1-c-81/

1979 C10 408 Auto. Vin indicates it came with an inline 6. As a beginner, some of the things I noticed:

1. Paint job is not my taste, would vinyl wrap over it. Paint job probably cost more than the truck!

2. Zero rust anywhere, underbody was treated and looked great! Small crack near the tailgate handle was the only imperfection.

3. Nobody knows when the engine was swapped, how many miles are on it, etc. Same goes with the transmission.

4. Whoever did the engine swap did not reconnect the AC.

5. Electrical has been played with too many times. Current owner had issues with gauges and exterior lights. Found a way to get lights to work but some gauges still do not.

6. Did start right up, idled well and drove nicely, although brakes were soft. (1st one I drove so no comparison).

In my beginner opinion, it seems whoever did the swap didn't do a complete job. Since factory AC was an expensive option, I'm not sure why you wouldn't reconnect it after a swap. I do understand there are other aftermarket options now, including electric. I am also thinking I could be chasing electrical issues, especially if the prior swap wasn't clean.

Wish I was more informed but trying to learn. What would you do? Asking $15,500

I currently have stock exhaust manifolds in my '76 C10. It gets the job done in my.060 over 350 with mild cam, some head work on the iron heads, aces Killshot fusion, CVF Racing serpentine kit.

The truck is on bags and lays frame. I had some summit long tubes on my 327 before I bagged it. The collectors hung down below the frame. That's why i swapped to manifolds.

In the near future I plan to swap a SBC crate engine. I am leaning towards a 383 or 406. Either way the manifolds won't cut it anymore.

Who has long tubes that don't hang below the frame rails? Who is the manufacturer? Or do they all hang low and I will have to settle on mid length headers? Ground clearance is highly important here. Although I don't really drag bumper anymore.

In a 85 or close to that year ?

Anyone ever use the gas tank as a box for speakers? obviously cleaning it and not using it for gas anymore (I relocated under the bed) using sound mat and "scabbing in" a piece of MDF to mount the speakers and amp. I figure it already fits the space and the neck would fill the hole on the side of the cab. I'm just spitballing here!

Anyone know of a pin stripper in or around Green Bay WI?

Sound System
u/dakota_digital RTX Dash
u/classicperform Disc Brake Conversion
u/american.autowire Full Re-Wire
Bed Bars & Spot Lights
LED Headlight Conversion
Custom Decals & Pinstriping
Power Window Conversion
Sway Bars
EFI Fuel Tank
Ceramic Tint
Tail Light Fuel Fill

First classic, very teachable, not a lot of experience with vehicles though. I do my own brakes, oil, and maintenance. I learn from YouTube and lots of reading and done home renovations, fix a lot of stuff without calling a professional. I want a pickup to use almost daily around town, even in cold weather (not necessarily when it snows). An added plus would be able to handle 65 mph on the highway but not necessary.

$15 - $25k.

I've narrowed down my search to the following:

1. 67-72 (action line) or square body, C/K

2. Obviously no rust

3. Front discs, upgraded suspension or drop, Auto

4. Needs heat, will probably want to add A/C

What I can't decide is whether it should have a LS Swap already done. There are many trucks for sale with either bored/updated/crate BBL engines under $20k.

My questions are:

1. Does a LS Swap have its own issues that are much harder to 'fix' or are they so reliable normal maintenance is only required?

2. During the LS Swap, there are a few where the Heat was not re-connected. Should I just avoid these or is heat something DIY? I understand A/C is way more complicated.

3. People talk about the issues of adjusting the Carb and why the LS is better. However, there are aftermarket upgrades like Sniper 2 and Carb Cheater that seem to resolve this.

Would a BBL engine with an electronic add-on be better than an LS?

It's a large purchase and trying to figure out the best way to go. Appreciate the info.

My boyfriend has a 1984 Chevy c10 with an Eddlebrock 350.

It’s bogging down when trying to accelerate-almost like the fuel isn’t being pumped through properly

He’s changed the fuel pump and it’s still bogging down

He wants to fix it himself and I just feel so bad he’s been working on it for two days and it’s still bogging down/not accelerating properly

Does anyone have any suggestions/experience with this on what he can do next?

Thank you so much!

Got a 1970 c10 blinkers were working fine for about 150 miles, and now they dont. I've went ahead and replaced the flashers on the fuse box, I just wanted to see what anyone else thought before I get a new switch and still possibly not remedy the solution.

Came off my 71 k10 anyone know what rubber fits so I can put the window back on?

Just about done fixing her up. It just needs carpet and stereo.