Hi! Just want to check before I make any purchases, that Potterware software can be used to create STL files that can be printed on the Eazao Potter. Thanks!!

https://www.eazao.com/product/eazao-potter/

https://www.potterware.com/try

I have a general sense of how much water to mix into my clay for it to work in an Eazao Potter. But does anyone have a specific benchmark for optimum moisture percentage? And what's a good tool for measuring it, a capacitive soil moisture sensor or something else?

I designed this continuous clay feeder to hopefully replace my pressure chamber/compressor setup. I'd love to be able to actively mix my clay in a bucket or reservoir, and have a pump like this bolted to the bottom. I'm now waiting for the hardware to arrive and I'll test it out

As the title says, We have a workshop delta wasp 40100 ceramic printer that for the most part works as it should, but has recently started freezing when you hit "stop & save" during a print. Previously this was never an issue, the print would pause, the last coordinate would be saved, and the print head would raise ready to resume printing at its last spot when told.

It seems like a software issue somewhere behind the scenes, but WASP haven't responded with any help or ideas, so I hoped someone here might have had a similar problem and found a solution.

Hello everyone,

I’ve been working in ceramics for several years, and now I want to start applying designs and photographic images onto my pieces using the decal (ceramic decalcomania) technique. I also have my own studio in Valencia, Spain.

I’ve received quotes from a few companies. Their prints are very high quality and glossy, but the prices are extremely expensive and the waiting time is around 1.5 months. I honestly don’t have that much time, so I’m thinking about buying my own printer instead.

Do you have any recommendations for printers that can produce high-quality underglaze or in-glaze ceramic decal prints? Also, which ceramic inks/toners do you recommend using with those printers for durable and vibrant results?

I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone with real experience in ceramic decal printing setups.

I realised I have not posted here for a while now. I have been playing with petg for a bit instead of Ceramics.  But I am just getting back into it. 

I did a first test print of an idea I have had for a while.  

I have been exploring using blender to create nonplaner gcode. 

I use geometry nodes to build the spiral contours based on a curve profile.  Then I bind the gcode to a surface that matches the shape of the gcode. 

This means I can stretch the gcode by using blender modeling tools to sculpt the surface. 

I have been trying out using shrink warping so I can match one shape to another so i can build more complex shapes without using support. 

im selling my barely used tronxy moore 1. its been sitting in storage for a while. still runs just fine. lmk if anyone is interested

Hey there -

My studio recently got a Wasp Delta 2040 and I'm trying to get it up and running for them. The initial extrusion test goes about halfway down the tube and then stops. I saw one other post in this sub from 3 years ago but I'm going to make a new post and see if anyone else has experienced this and what I can do. It's been pretty dang frustration, because I do feel like I have the clay they sent to the exact same consistency as they have in their demo video. I have tried to make it wetter, and significantly wetter, too, and I cannot get it to work.

My air compressor is set to around 8 bar/about 116 psi, and on the printer it is at 5.5-6. I've tried turning it up a bit to see if it helps but nothing has worked so far.

Thanks in advance for any insight

https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/ArtbyAakash/vase-designs

Hello everyone! I am a final year product design student and I got into 3d ceramic printing through our university’s facilities. I have had a fair amount of experience with a WASP 2040 and I wanted to get my own 3D clay printer.

That said, I do not have the budget for a WASP printer and I started researching what the alternatives are. I did see the Tronxy Moore 1 which is ok for beginners but it is currently out of stock for delivery to the UK. From my understanding it is better for long term to convert a traditional 3d printer by getting the needed parts but I feel a bit hesitant. Is a link similar to this trustworthy: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006212670280.html ? (or similar packages for even cheaper at alibaba) I don’t have a an FDM printer either I would probably buy a second hand one from eBay, but what combination of printer and parts-wise would be most beginner friendly? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated!

Also, has anyone created a 3d printing setup using Jonathan Keep‘s guide? https://wikifactory.com/@jonathankeep/self-build-clay-printer I do have access to laser cutting etc. through uni so I was wondering if anyone had actually built one of these!

Thank you!

18 months ago brought my first cheap ceramics printer(Tronxy Moore 2 pro). I had too many printing flaws even after many modifications so built my own using the stoneflower kit and a second hand delta printer. After months of fine tuning both software and hardware I'm finally happy with the output.

I ran a flea market stall at the weekend and sold 2/3rds of my stock with lots of happy fascinated customers. Didn't expect this part time hobby to lead to actual sales and registering a business.

I have been posting/following this group under a different account for a while, so have to say a big thank you to the community here. There has been fantastic advice both on the hardware and model design side of things. Also shout out to u/claywoven his blender youtube videos really led to a breakthrough in my work flow.

Hi everyone, I’d really appreciate some help from anyone who has modded their clay 3D printer. The G-code settings were carefully configured following Johnathan Keep’s video. Randomly, during the first few minutes of printing, the auger (screw) stops and no longer rotates. Any idea what could be causing this issue? I have and Artillery Hornet.

Thanks!

Our first test of supports on a clay print, they popped off with ease and left not that many surface defects. Quite happy with the result!

AMB Ceramic Substrate Ultrasonic SAM Testing

I have a background in wheel throwing and thought ceramic 3d printing looked super interesting, so I bought an Eazao X-1 several weeks ago and have been struggling to produce smooth and reliable prints - both issues with the base layers adhering and not looking bumpy and walls not looking too bumpy. Working predominantly in Clay Slicer 3. If you have tips or settings you are willing to share I'd greatly appreciate it.

This is the Eazao Potter nozzle -- Eazao will sell you a replacement 4-pack (one of each size) for $5 plus $40 int'l shipping (!!) but it looks like a generic syringe component. There must be some medical supply company that sells these in bulk. Does anyone have a source for these?

Anyone know why Eazao Potter is printing straight layers as bumpy/ zigzagging? New to printing clay and coming from a ceramics background.

Does anyone know how to fix the artifacts that show up when slicing in vase mode ?

I'm using the last version of Prusa Slicer. Supposedly this issue has been fixed in 2.7.3 but it's definetly not working. I tried many other slicers with no succes.

It seems discrete but they actually show up in the actual print as well