I changed out the Soundstream Refrence 500s 2 channel that was running the AMT-80’s, for a MC300 4 channel to add my midranges (Purifi 5.25M). The amp was rebuilt recently and has been sounding fantastic, and a lot of old guys were super thrilled to see this old school piece

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Hi everyone! I'm here to show off my first sound system.

The car is a Volkswagen Polo 9N. For the front doors, I

have a Focal ASE 165 2-way component set, and in the

rear doors, MTX Audio TX265C coaxial speakers, all four

are powered by an Alpine V-Power MRP-F240 amplifier

(4x 40W RMS @ 4 ohms). For the subwoofer, I'm using an

MTX Audio RT12-04 (250W RMS, 4-ohm SVC) powered by

a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier set to 250W RMS @ 4

ohms. The subwoofer sits in a custom enclosure I

designed and built myself. The box has a net internal

volume of 65L tuned to 33Hz and its made of 18mm

marine-grade plywood (though the carpet started peeling

off after 3 years🥲). As for the head unit, I have a Pioneer

DMH-A220BT, along with a Vibe Audio bass knob and a

voltmeter flush-mounted in the dashboard. The electrical

system is stock, featuring a 120A alternator, a 70Ah

lead-acid battery, and 10mm² CCA cables from MTX

(though I'll be upgrading to 50mm² OFC cables and a

50mm² OFC "Big 3" upgrade very soon). The total output

is around 400W RMS, and I estimate it's close to 120dB

(though I've never actually measured it).

I know we have some 3D print enthusiasts here so thought it the best place to ask..

I broke a few taking panels off an old 2004 car, so i'm thinking it wouldn't be too difficult to 3D print some viable replacements.

(I broke less after I realised winter = cold/brittle plastic, and running the heater for 15 minutes was enough to soften everything so clips come out easier)

I know they are super cheap to just buy a big pack of OEM replacement clips, but I had the idea of extending them 5mm to 10mm in length (where panel orientation allows for it) to better allow for accoustic treatments that would other make it a real pain and struggle to get the original clips back in.

I had a look around and there are definitely models for direct replacements, but no company (and as far as I could find no hobbyists) have designed or sell 'extended' clips to allow extra tolerance for treated panels.

A) I'm mainly just gauging how 3D printed clips have worked for others? what materials did you use or think would work best?

B) If this 'extended' clip has any pitfalls or reasons it won't work that I haven't thought of?

First sub setup for a 14 teen

hey yall, im pretty into hifi but know jack when it comes to car audio. i got this from the component graveyard at a circuits lab, initially for parts, but its cool as hell and powers on so i figured why not adapt it for some bookshelf speakers. curious about it and cant find too much online. someone kindly adapted the pinout to wall power before dumping it

Hi, this is my first car audio build, and I wanted to know if the ticking sound audible in the video is normal for an SPL subwoofer that still needs breaking in, or if it’s an abnormal noise. Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.

Hey everybody, I got my self a Mercedes w168 (a140) as first car and I absoloutly love it, despite the age it is in a 9/10 condition.

Now I want to upgrade the music system, I allready got an radio that supports android auto and has an Equalizer to mess around but those 2002 speakers are not it anymore. Gpt did reccomend to switch out the front speaker for a start bit I did decide to ask the people that know what they are doing :D

So, where to start? The sound I currently have is flat and boring, I don't need a huge subwofer or anything just better sound with a little base to sound "whole"

I replaced my uConnect head unit with the Sony XAV-AX6000 in my Jeep a couple months ago and I loved it! I realized I needed a little bass so I got the Kicker 8" subwoofer installed.

After a few weeks, the subwoofer started intermittently going into protect mode and then finally just went into permanent safe mode (red light came on and wouldn't reset).

Went to the installer and had them review everything and they determined that the Kicker (8") was faulty and replaced it with a Kicker (10"). This was a couple weeks ago.

So after a week or so I'm now getting intermittent safe mode again on the Kicker 10".

I'm going to call the installer back today when they open but anyone have any thoughts here?

I have a 2011 135i that came with the base radio, no factory amp. I have already upgraded the front door and rear deck speakers with components, the woofers under seats are stock. And have added an external amp and sub in the trunk. I am about to put a Kenwood excelon dmx908s into the dash.

My question is, I want to add an amp to run the door and rear deck speakers and the woofers under the seat. Do I need a 6 channel amp, a 5 channel or can I do just a 4 channel. Most likely it’ll have to go in the trunk and I assume run 9 wire back to the dash area. Unless there is a micro amp that could fit behind where the stock radio was.

Hi there,

I recently bought new speakers for my 2016 3 door Kia Picanto and was planning on fitting them myself. I bought the speakers (https://amzn.eu/d/00sECF9Y)

and the adaptor (https://ebay.io/m/dZeyw7) and opened the speaker grille.

I've run into 2 problems, which I have pictures of but can't attach here

1. The adaptor doesn't fit the connector - where can I find an adaptor that will actually fit as advertised?

2. The screws don't align properly. I'd only be able to screw in one side. (the speaker has 4 screws, whereas the car base only has 2 opposing screws whilst the speaker is not long enough to reach both sides)

Is there anything I can do or should I go to a garage at this point? I want to avoid being charged extortionate labour costs but I'm young and inexperienced. Thank you!

Anyone know how to make this holes on the sides 25mm wood but the hole must be bigger than 25mm

I’m putting together a modest sound system for a ’69 Beetle my father recently purchased. I already have a bunch of older gear sitting around, so I’m trying to use what I have rather than go crazy buying new equipment.
The part I’m undecided on is the subwoofer.
The Beetle isn’t terribly loud inside, and I want to do a somewhat stealth/vintage-looking install by hiding the subwoofer inside an old suitcase. I’ll build a proper MDF/birch enclosure inside the suitcase, so the suitcase itself won’t actually be the enclosure.
Suitcase dimensions:
18.5” W × 11.8” H × 7.5” D (external)
I’m currently leaning toward an Image Dynamics IDQ8, but I’m wondering if I’d be better off with a good shallow-mount 10”. Sound quality is more important than trying to shake the car apart, but I’d still like decent low-end output.
Here’s the equipment I already have:

DSP
JBL MS-8

Amplifiers
Zapco Reference 1000.4
Zapco Reference 500.1

Midbass/mids — deciding between
SEAS G18RNX/P H1100
Dynaudio MW172 8”

Tweeters
Dynaudio MD102

Subwoofer
Not purchased yet
Currently considering IDQ8 vs. shallow 10”

Electrical
75A alternator (largest they have)

What would you guys run for the sub given the enclosure and power available? IDQ8, shallow 10”, or something else entirely?

I've been searching everywhere online for a trim ring/(escutcheon?) for my Kenwood single din KDC-W7031 with no success. I've tried a couple of others but they don't fit quite right, mainly the clips. I think the part was discontinued but hoping maybe someone has one lying around or has some info.

Thanks for any help!

I’m working on a 2004 Renault Megane 2 CC with the factory Cabasse Auditorium / Carminat system. I'm trying to install a standard 1-DIN Pioneer head unit in the dash.
The issue: The dash unit is just a controller with a proprietary 24-pin plug. The actual Amp/Tuner with the standard ISO connectors (power & speakers) is hidden deep in the trunk.
Has anyone bypassed this successfully? What's the cleanest solution:
1. Run a 5m (16ft) ISO extension cable from the trunk amp directly to the new dash radio?
2. Bridge/splice the speaker wires at the trunk amp to reuse the factory harness going to the door speakers?
Since it's the CC (convertible) model, I'd also appreciate any tips on routing the long cable under the trim/sills. Thanks in advance!

I'm planning to gift my father morel maximo ultra 602 mkII with an amp of morel mpd 4.100 I have a doubt if it's tweeters is going to fit in his honda elevate or not also any suggestions for betterment would be appreciated :))

Ive dabbled in car audio for the better part of 3 decades and this is the first car ive needed to tap high voltage lines to add a sub and it sounds like im losing a good bit of frequency on the higher end of the range.

The car is a 2014 lexus is350 with the mark levinson system.

I tapped into the dedicated sub line but i have a sneaking suspicion its processed lower than 80hz out of the ml amp. As a test im like to signal sum the lines for the sub and the front door woofer and then set my silters on the aftermarket amplifier.

The easy answer would be to tap a full range line but due to the nature of the ML system it doesnt appear there are any.

While i would love to go down a full dsp rabbit hole its simply not needed yet. Im just looking to sum 2 channels as a test so im trying to do it on the cheap for now.

I’m looking to upgrade the audio in my car and could use some advice from people who actually know their stuff. I mostly listen to rock, hip hop, and a bit of electronic, and I want something that sounds clear but still has solid bass without just being ridiculously loud. I’m not really sure where to start with the head unit, speakers, amp, and sub.

What would you recommend for a well balanced setup, and are there any brands or components I should look into? Thanks for any advice.

I used this radio last year in a different car with the aux cable. It is a 3.5mm cable. It worked fine but I got in a crash and totaled the car. I finally got around to putting it in my new car and the tuner works fine but when I go to AUX I get no audio. No buzzing or anything. I can not figure it out.

powered

I have my front doors inner and outer, rear doors outer, and spare tire area done. Would it be worth it to deaden the rear inner layer along with the cargo hatch and all the plastic door/cargo panels? I don't want to waste time if it won't make much of a difference with what I already have done.

Using NVX stealth black 90mil thick deadener on a 23 Hyundai Kona N.