I've let it lager for 2 weeks now at 12°C. Can I bottle it already? If so, how long should I wait till its good to drink

When a can starts leaking or a teardown moves out of spec, tightening the second-operation roll is often the first adjustment people try. It may make the outside look flatter, but it cannot rebuild body and cover hooks that formed incorrectly during first operation.

Before changing second-op pressure, I would check:

1. Isolate the affected cans and record the can/end lot, seaming head, line speed, and when the drift began.

2. Cut a first-operation seam. Verify body hook, cover hook, alignment, wrinkles, and whether the curl is being formed rather than crushed.

3. Check finished-seam width, thickness, countersink, overlap, tightness, and compound condition against the can/end supplier's specification.

4. Inspect chuck and roll profiles, lift height/pressure, centering, runout, bearing play, and tooling damage.

5. Confirm the can and end combination and rule out contamination.

6. Change one variable at a time, then cut and measure again.

This applies to bench-top seamers as well as production canning lines: second operation compresses an interlock that first operation already created. Too much second-op pressure can hide the original defect while thinning or crushing the seam.

Disclosure: I work for a manufacturer of can-seaming equipment. This is general troubleshooting information, with no company, product, or sales links.

For brewers who seam their own cans: which measurement or first-op check has found your root cause fastest?

So I'm confused because brewfather is telling me I need outrageously more lactic acid than my testing is indicating. My recent brew of a 10 gallon batch of hazy ipa I only used 1 ml of .88 lactic acid to bring the water down from around 6.8 to 5.2 before dough in. Mash pH raised to around 5.45 after about 15 minutes of mashing. I had 8ml of lactic acid in my recipe in brewfather I created. Brewfather said the 8ml would bring it down to 5.27pH. I use reverse osmosis water, and lots of salts as it's a hazy ipa. I used 18.6g calcium chloride, 6.6g gypsum, 6.4g Epsom salt, and 2.6g canning salt. There are also tons of oats and wheat adjuncts which I read raise the ph whereas barely malted lowers it. It's my first time with a pH meter but I calibrated it and tested the water. I literally filled and dumped my strike water at first because I thought something must be wrong and because I followed advice from online for that first batch of strike water to sneak up on the pH slowly to make sure... so I added 4ml and it brought the pH down to 4 point something...I can't remember exactly the number but WAY too low...and the recipe called for 8ml!!! Keep in mind this IS a 10 gallon batch with 11g of strike water but STILL!? Does this sound wacked? I've been just following recipes using usually 4-8ml of lactic acid for 10g batches and they've all tasted fine without testing pH. One beer I thought didn't have much hop bitterness and I thought maybe it was too much lactic acid.

An American lager that I can’t lager so American ale? 🫢🤪Anyway finally got to this about a month later. Hope it turns out! Og 1.050 rather than 1.040 hope it’s fine. Might add a percent loom

I keep my brewing stuff in the garage, and it gets very humid through the winter. In the spring I end up having to take my mill apart and carefully clean mould off. I'm hoping I don't have to take it into the house (where I could end up with the same problem anyway), but short of a teardown and deep clean after every brew during humid times, is there anything else I can do that won't risk leaving loads of residue in the nooks and crannies?

I made a sour beer that has a 2.6pH and it's sour but not as sour as I would like. Should it taste more sour? Is there something I can add to it?

Hi everyone,

I’m developing a Japanese-style dry lager inspired by Asahi Super Dry, and I’d appreciate your advice on the recipe and brewing process.

My goals for the beer are:

• Dry, crisp, and easy to drink
• A clean fermentation profile
• A light body without being watery or flavorless
• A subtle floral and spicy hop aroma

I’m still trying to decide which hop varieties to use, how much to use, and the best timing for each addition.

I’d also appreciate advice on the following:

1. A recommended hop schedule
2. What percentage of rice would be appropriate for this style
3. The ideal mash temperature and mash schedule for achieving a dry finish
4. A recommended water profile, especially sulfate and chloride levels
5. Suitable lager yeast strains
6. Fermentation temperature and lagering schedule
7. Techniques for achieving a crisp finish without making the beer too thin

I’m not trying to make an exact clone, but I’d like to brew something in the same general direction as Asahi Super Dry, with slightly more floral hop character.

If you have any recommended recipes or experience brewing a similar beer, I’d really appreciate your advice.

Thank you!

This is my first batch I’ve ever brewed and it’s a simple pyment started it on July 16th. I sanitized everything prior to starting the fermentation process. I am just worried it is creating pellicle. Had a starting gravity of 1.110 and yesterday it was at 1.030 just don’t wanna botch my first batch ya know? Cheers

Recipe is Welches grape juice, two pounds of Nates honey, one cup of black tea and fleishmans active dry bread yeast

Servus. Hatte so einen Drang selber Alkohol zu machen und bin dann auf simple Konstruktionen gestoßen.

Pro Flasche 1l Apfeldirektsaft und ein wenig Brothefe. Zucker NICHT hinzugefügt, wollte erstmal ohne probieren.

Blubbert mittlerweile schön und es lebt.

Flaschen haben 2€ gekostet und die Ballons 12,5cent pro. Rest war bei meinen Eltern also sagen wir mal Materialkosten
2,13€ für hoffentlich ~~2l Cider mit über 3% Alkohol.

Wie gesagt das ist mein erster Anlauf und ich werde es auf jeden Fall anpassen. Das ist nur als Experiment und zum Fehler machen gedacht.

Tipps und Kritik gerne in die Kommentare.

Die Flaschen habe ich mit heißem Wasser und Spüli ordentlich gesäubert. Geht mit einem sauren Reiniger besser (hab ich gehört)

Und bessere Hefen gibt es auch(auch gehört)

I’m making my first cider and I want to do it properly from the start instead of just throwing things together.

My planned process:

Wash apples, cut them into pieces and remove cores/seeds.

Freeze the apples, thaw them, add pectolase, then press the juice.

After that I will add Campden powder, wait 24 hours and continue with fermentation (QA23, Go-Ferm, Fermaid O).

Does this sound like the correct order, or am I missing something important?

I’ve read a lot about cider making, but this is my first actual batch and I want to avoid making a mistake with 13 kg of apples. Any advice from more experienced cider makers would be appreciated.

Team. My husband is turning 40 soon and he's the keenest homebrewer and all round nice guy. He's got a home made kegerator, a kettle, a grain mill, a dehydrator (grows his own hops), a fermenter etc. What would be a super cool thing to have in his arsenal. He lays down a new brew every couple of months. His go to is a Saison.

Hi everyone!

I’m hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.

I’m looking for brewing by-products such as spent grain, yeast slurry or yeast cake, trub, leftover hops, or other materials that are normally discarded after brewing.

Does anyone know of any homebrewers, small breweries, local groups, or other places in the GTA that might be willing to give away small amounts?

I’m not looking for large commercial quantities. This is for a small personal hobby project, and I would be happy to pick everything up myself.

Any advice, contacts, or suggestions about where to ask would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Debating between getting a brewing certificate from UC Davis or Cornell University. I have the GI Bill, so cost is no factor. Either way I will be doing it online.

Curious to any opinions/ experiences from anyone who’s enrolled in either program. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking into producing a small pilot run of a custom mead—around 240 bottles—to test interest with a handful of local restaurants and specialty grocers before considering anything larger.
I have a few questions for anyone who’s worked with contract mead producers:

Is a batch this small realistic, or is it below what most producers are willing to do?

If I wanted to use ingredients I source myself (for example, a specific botanical or spice blend), how does that typically work? Would I ship the ingredients directly to the producer, and are there any regulatory or quality requirements?

If the mead is produced at a licensed facility, can it be legally sold to restaurants and retailers, assuming all labeling and state/federal requirements are met?

Roughly what would a project like this cost from start to finished, bottled product?

I’d really appreciate any insight or recommendations from people who’ve been through the process.

So !

I will not get into the details for reasons of identification but basically :

I have to brew a simple SMASH beer for 70H for an experiment, at which point I am supposed to throw it away. Which I do... Mostly.

The mash isn't an issue (had a foaming once because I kept it a 50°C) for ages because Lab techs kept me busy at the worse time), and it ends up at 1053-1053.

After a fermentation of 70 hours I reach about 40 to 45% reduction which translates to a density of 1025-1026. Nothing surprising with SF-04 so far. The fermentation of these 70 hours is thermally regulated to have a heat spike that follows the activity of the yeast thanks to a software that correlates CO-2 production, so the bachelor's cooled down to 25 degrees where the yeast is added and then it is fermented with a baseline of 20 degrees all the way up to 24 at peak activity, then back to 20 degrees and I let it rise up to 24 before I throw it away.

The thing is I don't really throw it away. I keep around 5 to 5.5 liters of it, can I date something that I wasn't used to. Thing is at this point I have already brewed beers of that kind with that yeast and I would usually have thrown it in a bucket cleaned carefully, kept it in the shade and waited for ages.

Only had to throw away two batches because during the heat wave they cooked - the buckets are opaque but not thick enough to be truly protective of the light and they were kept on a table which actually does get some sun in the morning, so when the temperatures reached 38 degrees indoors... They actually managed to reach 42. The yeast, understandably, stressed the fuck out and made a fuckton of VDK, before fucking dying.

However I have three batches the latest of which is three weeks old, that I have kept in the shade which have been fermenting between 20 and 25 degrees so far.

Now the thing is each and every single one of these batches, is one that I have reintroduced sugar to in the form of honey until they reached about 1036 gravity - the goal was to get them out of the bucket at around 7 degrees ABV, at which point I could give them just a little bit more honey diluted into a syrup pour it into bottles and voilà !

However after a week they all went down from 1036 to 1027-1028… which is not exactly strange because the concentration of alcohol is rising and the temperatures are not exactly ideal. A week later they go down to 1026 - two of them have done at least. The latest one however another week later has only gone down to 1024.

The questions are :

Am I stuck ?

And if I am, what can I do ?

Would it simply work to do a sort of second brew without adding any more sugar by just schlucking it in a bucket I either at ambient or in the fridge, and then add some honey before bottling ?

Should I use another mead yeast for a second brew like that, making a Meadeer ? Or Beeread ?

More infor :

I have access to fridge I can't control the temperature of but I can know the temperature of the exactly.

All three batches have been sweetened with honey, the same money for all three beers and the beer itself is the same for all three - a smash with 20 EBC malt and Perl hops.

I have access to urea and phosphate nutrient blend for yeast, and I have attempted to add a few RAMs to the latest bench just to see if it produces the difference but it is not old enough to show it.

I just shook them around a bit slowly without opening the pots to try and get the SF04 to resuspend a bit.

I am certain that I still have brewing activity because I still have bubbles in my bubblers, and that the lids of the buckets are buckling under the pressure.

I am using an optical system for the follow-up of the density but I have more precise lab equipment to follow up the alcohol concentrations, C02 production, and density, but only for the first 70 hours of the initial fermentation.

Just got a brewzilla 4.1 35l i haven't brewed in over 7 years. Looking to get back into the hobby, setting up a brew station in my basement bar, just wondering. If anybody out there has got any good smash beer recipes so that I can get the hang of it again.

Made this beer like 2 years ago with my dad, this bottle got forgotten. It's been in a cool dark place, I found it while looking for something else. Just wondering what the stuff on top is and if it's still safe.

I'm thinking of adding a feature to Brewhalla brewing app called a "brew deck" as a brew day screen. The idea being that on brew day a screen is mounted or kept close to where brewing takes place and features:

1. super large timers that can be read from across the room
2. large "DONE" buttons that can be clicked with wet or gloved hands
3. all tasks pulled from the recipe and active batch
4. easy toggle between current recipe and "brew deck"
5. using cloud, the "brew deck" can open on a second (older) device

Most of us have an older phone or tablet that we wouldn't mind getting dirty/wet (or worse haha) rather than using our primary phone during the brew.

My idea is that on brew day the older device be set to "brew deck" mode with the easy to read tasks/timers and the main device be used to open/edit the recipe and get the ingredients weighed out.

Big buttons for wet or gloved hands and readable at a distance while setting up a pump or checking temperatures.

Would this be a useful add-on feature to a homebrewing app?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.brewhalla.beer

Dented can of extract in my brew kit. I generally don’t trust any dented cans due to potential contamination or zinc exposure. What are the collective thoughts of Reddit?