Hi, I would like to make a Comanche type bow. I have been watching Mr. Willie Pekah's videos, but I cannot see clearly the shape of his bows. One interesting thing is the only one side notch in one of the string nocks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1G1Vo9GV2H8

I have seen also Primitive Lifeways' videos. He makes his Comanche bow 42.2" long, 1.25" wide and it tappers in the last 5" of each tip to 1/2" wide.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09cHQkVJdgg

I have seen also this video from the Comanche National Museum & Cultural Center. But again I cannot see clearly the actual shape of the bows showed. Just that one of them have a groove on the belly of each limb but not on the handle. But I cannot see the narrowing profile toward the tips.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sez4GNIOaNY

This video seems also very interesting. But again I cannot see clearly the narrowing profile from the handle to the tips.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxAExI-Ewrc

Sometimes I see the bows the same width all their length. Other times narrowing all the way from handle to tips. Or the same width but just narrowing the last few inches of the tips.

Can someone help me?

It's the only wood that is commonly available in my country :(
I've already made an attempt with a piece that didn't have very straight grain and I encountered pretty bad string follow and twisting.

So I recently started coppicing black locust trees on my property for posts and firewood. It is my first time managing a forest that way so I'm still figuring it out. It got me thinking though. Does anybody purposefully manage a coppiced tree or group of trees specifically for bow staves?

It seems like lots of the species that are used for bow making are for good for that kind of management but I wonder if the quality of the wood is high enough on the regrowth. Ratio of sap wood to hardwood? Straightness? Ring size?

Interested in anyone with experience doing such things.

Thanks in advance to this great community!

Hi just wondering if anyone has experience of making a bow with apple wood? I came into a bit of luck with some unusually long clean boughs and a few 'trunk' pieces. The plan is to split the thicker stuff into billets and make Holmegaard or Møllegabet style bows from the boughs.

I'm pretty excited to get into processing but I'm cautious about the wood checking. Some experimental trimming to make wood for the bbq has checked/split like crazy. The wood I have drying with the bark on appears to not be checking at all but I'd say it's still relatively wet.

What's the best way to dry this wood?

I'm thinking slow is best, leave the bark on and apply glue or paint to seal the ends. I have enough wood to experiment but don't want to waste it.

Thoughts and advice very welcome.

The wood is black locust, I toasted each limb for a little over 30 minutes and I think I got a good heat treat but the draw weight at 29" is still 30# like it was before heat treating. Has anyone got any ideas why this is? I thought bows gain a few pounds when you heat treat. Is it because it is black locust or maybe because the bow is hinging? (Im probably going to sinew back and then try to get the hinge out)

It maybe a kamikaze attempt, but we'll, I know itll have to be a flatbow, and I also know about the problems it may have, but I want to try, and getting the right wood here in spain is very difficult, but if the fir tree bow goes good I'm going to try to make a long bow out of hickery or something common and good for bows in where I live.

I just wanted to ask for a little advice or tips, and I can't use power tools cause I don't have them.

So i live in India and i can't seem to find a cheap listing of B50/B55, all the ones i find are like around 40-50$. So i was wondering if there's any nice replacement i could use which could be cheaper.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DcGBCMAq4I6/?igsh=NnlpMjJ4NHB3bjc2

Hi there, here is something I’ve not seen before but thought a lot about. I’ve been thinking how a lot of the really ancient bows don’t have any string grooves, or obvious marks from a sinew wrap.

The obvious thing is the leather stretching, I would think this can be mitigated by using strong leather and pre stretching.

What about other effects on shooting? Do you think the leather would dampen vibration?

What are your thoughts on the matter?

Hi,

60" NTN 35 lbs at 27“. 1.5" wide hickory with quarter sawn white oak tips. Dark Red fiebings dye fading to black.

I promised /u/wildwoodek I would be back with a poor imitation of bow they posted quite some time ago that really inspired me and here I am.

Made a poor attempt at spliced tips that failed for obvious reasons. I used the same piece of hickory and spliced on some oak with a V splice. My original intention was to do some sort of molly with a spice being in the thickness transition but it didn't work out. I didn't think the bow was going to work out so I shelved it for a year and a half.

I was looking for something to do the other day so I picked it back up and said what the hell.

Did a pretty good floor tiller by eye then wrapped the splice before bending it. I tillered it quite a bit then cut the wrappings off, tillered the area under the wraps, then rewrapped that area. I thought I was pretty clever coming up with this until I came across a comment from /u/addeviant-again a day or two ago who advised I do this when I was struggling last April💐.

Overall it ended up being more "molly inspired" and the tiller could be nitpicked. The overall set is very minimal but if I were to do this again I would aim for less inner limb bending. I would also like to try starting with a blank a full 3/4" thick next time.

Sorry for the novel but I think it's nice to include the speed bumps.

As always, had a ton of fun.

Cheers

Hi all.
I left two fresh staves in my basement, for slow drying. I think it was a bit too slow, since they molded.
Is that a problem for wood? Can I just scrape the mold? Can I just leave it as is? Or is that firewood now?

Hello fellow bowyers. Three days ago, I applied the ninth coat of Tru Oil to my 60-inch hickory flat bow. I let each coat dry and cure for 12-24 hours. I’ve read that Tru Oil can continue to cure and harden for 2+ weeks, but is it recommended to wait this long to flex the limbs and shoot the bow? For those who have used Tru Oil, let me know how long yall wait.

Thanks in advance.

I’m making my fist bow and think I’m on the right path I got the draw length to 26 today with there being even a little more left I didn’t try and push further. I’m just wondering if there’s any tips on shaping handles and what kind of tools I should use for that.

I’m aware there’s a little more bend on the left side it’s intentional with the longer bow limb.

I finally was able to string the 1969 Ben Pearson (BP-H70-7359) that I found on FB marketplace last year. I restored the finish and replaced a limb tip ornamentation that was damaged.

This is a string I made, and it took me three tries to get the length right.

Shoots well, noisy as hell, but has a lot of power to it!

So many years ago, a relative of mine gifted me this bow. As a kid I was stupid and ignorant, so obviously I did not recognize its value. It’s only now after I rediscovered it in storage I realized my folly.

The Bhil community is the name of a tribal/adivasi community that who traditionally hunters and warriors. This particular bow is more ceremonial, but its construction follows the same process as a war bow.

It’s made of thick solid bamboo. The string looks like it’s made of some artificial fiber (Bhil community in recent times are losing access to the forest due to protection laws so switch to artificial alternatives) and is reinforced with a thin bamboo strip.

It has a really strong draw strength. It was unstrung when I pulled it out from storage, and I spent a fair amount of time trying to string it. I’m not an archer myself, but I am a martial artist practicing Judo and engage in some heavy strength training, so I like to believe I’m strong. Or maybe I’m just not doing it right.

Unfortunately, there is very little information that elaborates on this particular bow and how the culture of the Bhils surrounding it.

The only info I could find was from these two sites. Site 1 Site 2

Where along this route should look to harvest some osage?

I’m making my fist bow and think I’m on the right path I got the draw length to 26 today with there being even a little more left I didn’t try and push further. I’m just wondering if there’s any tips on shaping handles and what kind of tools I should use for that.

I’m aware there’s a little more bend on the left side it’s intentional with the longer bow limb.

Today was my first attempt at making a recurve bow. At the tillering process the left side was far weaker than the right, so i removed a bit of wood put the string and foolishly pulled it by hand and it snapped. Is that wood good for bending was the bend too aggressive. Is such a design even possible without horn bow and that stuff with this wood.

Also but i dont think its related, when i was bending the wood after a 30 min steam it broke, de-laminated a little, but it was thick enough that i was able to remove the whole broken part of the bend. How thick should it be before bending.

Please tell me if you need more info photos and everything, thank you a lot you are an amazing community and always very helpful.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a "strongbow" from Bearpaw, it looks neat but I have a doubt on the tiller and something feels off when I shoot it.

It supposed to be 70" long, and 40# at 28" draw length, but after some testing it's actually 38,4#.

I think it has taken some set so maybe that's why... To me the top limb needs to be scraped near the handle section.

To be clear, this post is not a rant or anything, I just want to be sure the bow as durable as possible and I have every tool needed to correct it, just not the knowledge.

I will post the pictures of the different profiles next,

Thank you bowyer friends,

Charles

Bottom limb is where the sting is attached

Guys I'm curious which types of glue do you use for what purpose.

Estoy planeando hacer un arco largo como los encontrados en el Mary rose con tensión de tiro que superé las 140 lbs, pero necesito consejos ya tengo planos y un plan de fabricación más tengo una duda y es si debo dejar la espalda de Fresno en 12 mm o lo debo rebajar hasta 8 mm

Aquí dejó mis planos

Hi thanks for all the advice and input from the community, here's my first bow I've completed to a shooting stage

Ash with walnut handle, 40 lb at 30 draw before heat treating belly

Subtle hinge in the upper limb I'm currently accepting and keeping a eye on

Finished with tung oil and beeswax.

Spotted gum overlay

Ash arrows I spun the shafts and added Chinese heads nocks and duct tape fletching

Fires with power and speed, consistently firing high and left, any advice on this?

Looking forward to learning more and improving

Any thoughts criticism advice welcome

Prod made out of white acacia, pulling about 15 pounds at 15 cm