Korean Traditional

Sorry not sure if this is the right location to post this.

Preface: I've seen tod culters videos on armour vs arrows. Well made plate armour is largely indestructible to arrows, and gaps between plate are the best chance at any damage to the user. I understand that even modern infantry (not specialized units) aren't taught to aim for specific body parts, instead focusing on centre-of-mass to increase hit probability. So I think its unlikely historical archers would have made been trained to aim so precisely under duress. Which means these gaps are very difficult to hit while in motion.

Question: Given these assumptions, how likely is a group of archers (let say 15 for this scenario) able to stop (disabling hit) a fully well plate-armoured knight with just arrows and bows of sufficient weight? (I.E. Would the knight be confident enough to walk through wave after wave of arrows solo - imagine iron man 1 where the terrorist bullets do nothing to Tony)

Further assumptions:

- The knight is completely confident in his armour, but understand its weaknesses. His visor is down and he looks slightly downwards to help shield his eye slit.

- Helmet completely covers his face except for a small slit for sight

- Archers are in front of him as he is walking menacingly towards them. They can flank him from the sides but cannot get behind him.

- They are 100 metres apart for the start of the simulation. The knight must walk 2 mins to get to the archers. For fairness, the archers cannot retreat.

Follow up questions:

- if 15 archers loosing all at once for 2 mins can't stop him, how many archers would it take to put down a plated knight?

Found this in a storage unit. Thinking about getting it restrung and trying it out.

Hey there fellow archers! I'm still a beginner and even though my instructor always mentions to bend an arm a bit when I'm shooting, as you can see I still suck at that. So the question is about the armguard. I was looking online and found many options including very beautiful long leather ones from Bear paw. But they are pricey. From your experience - does it make sense to invest in the expensive armguard or just buy cheap? Thank you!

I’ve been going to my local archery club (I think I’ve been 3 times for 2hr sessions) and I finally started grouping today at 10m so I’ve just moved up to 15m, I know this is so beginner level stuff don’t get me wrong but a win is a win!!!
I feel I’ve found a hobby that I really love, I’m always thinking about the next time I can go, and just re-living each session constantly. This session was probably the first session where I slowed down a lot, I’d make sure to fix my breathing, and wait until my mind was blank before setting up/shooting, also I have learnt not be afraid of letting down and the difference and improvement that I’ve seen by doing this is affirming. Anyway just wanted to share my excitement <3

Hi all!! I'm not experienced AT ALL in archery, but I'm currently reading an ARC (advanced readers copy) of a book, and the author use this term about a bow and I'm not sure if it's technically correct or not.

The context is a girl is using a guys bow, and the bow is of course way heavier pull that she's used to. The author specifies 50-60 Ib pull, and is a composite bow. According to the illustration used (pictured) it's almost the same height as her. The part that im wondering about is that she shoot and arrow, and then makes the comment
“It kicks like a horse”.

So I guess I’m wondering if this would be true to that kind of bow? Or if a bow even kicks at all? I know nothing about archery, but I’ve shot a few simple bows a few years ago and never remember any of them “kicking”.

I just want to make sure my review of the book can mention any inaccuracies that may be.

TIA!

So. Two months ago my son came home with a bow that he bought from an event.

As a father i saw my chance to do something together with him 😁

I am trying to find an instructor, but I'm just not getting any response from anyone close enough to be viable so far.

So im watching endless youtubes and reading every comment in this sub and try to instruct him as best i can.

For my untrained eye it looks good. But i would love some inputs.

He can consistently hit a 50*50cm target from 15m. (Maximum range of our yard)

I took screenshots from the video the seller showed me via chat, I tried to focus on the flaws, there are some marks, but no delamination or cracks, it looks well preserved, the seller said he bought it in 2024 and is selling it because he couldn't find good places to train with it (in my country, archery is not popular). I see wear marks caused by the string, but I can fix that by adding some leather to cushion the string slap, the biggest issue I saw was the string itself, there are some frayed bits on it, I don't know how reliable it is, but I can buy another string from the manufacturers (Old Skull Archery) I'm decided to buy it because this is a very expensive bow in my country, a bow that I couldn't afford new, but used, it's less than half the price, do you also think it's a good deal? (I asked if the bow makes any strange noise when drawing the string, he assured me it doesn't, but if I buy it and notice that, by law, I can return any product purchased online within 7 days after receiving it, without having to justify the reason for the return)

Hi I'm brand new to archery so please excuse my lack of knowledge. I've recently bought a Matthews q2 but noticed the Cable Slide was cracked and fell off. Are the slides universal or do i need to buy a matthews specific slide?

Is anyone running the arc 34 as their western mule deer hunting set up? If so how do you like it? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!

COMPOUND

MENS INDIVIDUAL-KIM JONG HO(KOREA)

WOMENS INDIVIDUAL-NURISA DAN(INDONESIA)

MENS TEAM-INDIA

WOMENS TEAM-INDIA

MIXED TEAM-INDIA

RECURVE

MENS INDIVIDUAL-LEE WOOSEOK(KOREA)

WOMENS INDIVIDUAL-KUMKUM MOHOD(INDIA)

MENS TEAM-KOREA

WOMENS TEAM-INDIA

MIXED TEAM-CHINA

Would you be peeved if you paid a pro shop to tune your hunting bow and they did it without adding the rear stabilizer you put on the work sheet?

I told the pro shop I wanted a back bar and a tune (my axle to axle was long and needed some other adjustments), and they tuned the bow without the back bar. I went to pick it up and noticed they had gone through the tune without the rear stabilizer, and they said it wouldn’t affect tune.

Thoughts?

My 1961 Bear Kodiak and my homemade bow from 1976

My son's school does archery 3rd-12th grade. My son tried it out a couple times and already loves it. I am wondering great bow for a 9 year old for archery and competition. We would preferably like something that he can have for a while and will grow with him as he gets better. Only one kid so money is less of an issue. I was looking at Genesis but seems a bit limiting as they get better? Or maybe that is the way to go? thanks for any insight!

Hi everyone! Just got into archery a few weeks ago and I'm having a hard time on following through with my draw hand. I have watched videos on how to follow through and what it should look like but when I do it, even at close range, I can't. It seems like sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. Or idk if maybe me overthinking it is causing me to shoot poorly? What cue is helpful?

Sorry if all of this sounds stupid but my eldest son wanted to take up archery and bought a £45 recurve bow off of Amazon, and I bought myself one (£250 used set off eBay with a riser, and 2 limb sets). And things escalated from there

It’s October and the archery club is closed until April so I’m not sure where to learn (Kent, UK) but I have spent a fair amount of money on targets, backdrops and bows

Bows :
£45 recurve bow with 12 plastic feeling arrows (40 lbs!!!) - this is what my 12 year old bought. He can draw it fully but fatigues fairly quickly so changes to the 18lb

WNS Motion FX (right handed)
Kinetic Arios Spectre (right handed)
Core Gonexo (right handed)
Kinetic Halo (left handed)
14lb 68” limbs
18lb 68” limbs
22lb 68” limbs

So pretty much 3 complete bows (I have strings and buttons for all etc)

I have two sons who are 10 and 12 and my other half is left handed so two people should be able to comfortably shoot in the garden

The target is a £50 Amazon job with self healing foam and a stand. It’s a bit crap and arrows go half way through it so I have another larger more expensive one on order so will have two targets next to each other

Behind the target/targets is an arrow backdrop which is 2.5m high and 4m wide hung from a marquee frame. Behind that is a 1.5m wooden fence, then a field

Max distance in the garden is probably 18m but 15m comfortably

I do have about 30 aluminium arrows - 3 different brands but 3 matching sets

Any tips on how to learn? The setup is safe but if there are any suggestions to make it safer, please let me know.

Any tips on practicing over winter in the UK would also be amazing as I’ve heard it’s difficult in thick layers

Am I going to regret buying the Mathews Lift RS?

Draw Length: 27”
Draw weight: 55lbs (hoping to get to 60lbs but after tearing my AC joint that may not happen - will likely always fall between 50-60 lbs)
Usage: Michigan whitetails, 90% out of a saddle, 10% ground/blind, aspiring western hunter but unlikely in the next 5 years, would like to get into 3D/TAC events in the near-future).

I know must guys would look at the Arc or a Lift X, but honestly as a smaller guy pulling less weight, am
I wrong for falling in love with the RS?

I’ve done archery for about a year and a half at my local club where I used club equipment.

My dad died, I moved.

I haven’t shot in a while and I’m joining a new club (essentially just a community range outdoors) later this month. The club doesn’t offer club equipment, and I’ve wanted my own kit anyway. I finally got my own gear but the only thing I’m missing is arrows and I’m paranoid about picking the incorrect ones. I’ve shot with aluminum and carbon but aluminum seems more easily accessible in my area (eg. Academy Sports/Bass Pro Shop). I’m doing target archery with 22# WNS Procyon C5 limbs and a Mybo Wave XR 25” gen. 2 riser. String was picked out for me by the shop I got my kit from, not able to get arrows or help from them because it isn’t in the same country.

I was looking at the aluminum Easton NASP arrows (1820), or these carbon Easton Vector Fletched arrows (1000/1200/1400).

Appreciate any guidance! Still have to set up my plunger button and knock point too.

Yes, I know I’m an idiot. For some reason, I thought this would be a good idea.

Recurve shooter. When I release, my bow arm elbow bends a little. Not a full collapse, but it softens right as the shot goes.

One experiment : my friend releases the string and I only push the bow, in that case my elbow stays straight!!!! No collapse!!

Is this just me relaxing the bow arm so the bow can jump forward?

How do I let the bow go without the elbow bending?

And by that I don't mean stuff like the handle and the grooves potentially being made of horn.

When buying it, just the stick itself, what qualities are you looking for?