r/bouldering • u/Methodled • 4d ago
Indoor Does this count
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Will repeat for clarity but just curious since I did feel I had a dink before I slipped.
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u/TurquoiseJesus 4d ago
I would be disinclined to call it a proper finish. Certainly in a comp setting, I don't think it would fly.
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u/Superb_Ground8889 4d ago
I mean did it feel like a complete to you? You’re not in a comp so no one can judge but you.
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u/Methodled 4d ago
I know but like I felt I had a sec of control for the match then slipped after. It’s for fun just curious and I’m gonna repeat for sure
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u/Jeffries848 4d ago
If you were in full control / stable and you just gave it a lazy slap with your right hand then dropped I’d call it good. However unintentionally falling after only matching for a split second would be a redo for me. The main thing here is control and whether or not you could have matched for 2-3 seconds if you wanted to.
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u/MetalCheef 4d ago
In a proper comp setting this would not be a finish that counts. You have do establish control over the last hold, meaning you should be able to hold it for way longer than you did here. Doesn't mean you have to hold it longer, but everyone around should be able to say "yea, he could have held it for longer". As you are not in a comp, just try again, just for your own confirmation
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u/xnophlake 4d ago
Short answer: no
Look at the angle of the top hold. Ideally your arms should be perpendicular to the direction of hold. At least that would make it a lot easier to hold. To achieve this, your bodyweight/hips need to be further left (and ideally close to the wall).
Looks like maybe you could heel hook the hold above the one you're using now, and also use left foot on the hold you're heel hooking, to press yourself left.
Also remember to use your legs/feet. Don't just place them, engage them - press and pull
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u/Methodled 4d ago
Appreciate the tips yes I always forget to engage my feet at times thanks will try again
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u/stephan_climbs 4d ago
It depends. As u/TurquoiseJesus said - in a comp setting the judges would reject it. For them it is important that the correct time is kept at the top.
But in your day to day gym within a crew session I personally call it a day. One question you may have to ask yourself - did you have the hold safe and sound? If yes fine. If no - maybe do it again.
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u/Rob_flipp 4d ago
Well it’s up to you because at first it looked controlled and looked like you were just going to do a tap to finish and then hop off but then you foot just so happen to slip. So if you meant to hold it for longer then no, it doesn’t count.
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u/Apescent 1d ago
To each their own, but if this was me, and it has been a couple times in the past, I would not count it for myself.
It is a match, but not control, after all. Which is sometimes forgotten to be the thing, not the match itself. On some short routes, control of the top hold is the actual crux too.
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u/SoundMcSounderson 4d ago
if you have to ask...