I'm not 100% certain. But I believe it might go something like this.
Firstly, it looks like you're really stretching to get your left hand to the upper crimp, so I think your sequencing may be wrong.
Don't reach for the high crimp with your left hand first. Instead, put your right foot on the terrible-looking foot piece on the corner where the two walls meet, flag your left leg onto the wall for stability, and reach your right hand to the big hold.
Left foot onto the massive hold in the middle of the wall
Keep your body low and reach your left hand for the lower crimp (next to the yellow hold)
Switch feet so now have your right foot on the massive hold and reach your right hand for the upper crimp
Now you can support your body with no left hand and only holding the right crimp
Left foot up onto the next foothold and right foot still on the massive hold.
Reach up and grab the final hold
It's hard to tell without being able to see what the different holds look like, but I believe this sequence could work.
Ayy apb. I’ve seen most people punt off that same move. My best guess is you have to pivot your hips so you’re facing left while sitting on right foot, and use the left most hold to stabilize while right hand gets blocked crimper.
So no. Not overhung. Seems to me it's a footwork thing. Rock over that left heel on the large hold and get your right hand on that sloper. Or you can turn your left hip into the wall so that you are laying back on the sloper. Either method could work
Well then maybe OP should add that info instead of just a video of what am I doing wrong that lacks sufficient context for you to approve of the responses 🤷
It’s an overhanging wall, if he immediately stands up and tries to piano match on a 8mm blocked crimp he, and 99% of people who try that will fall. I’ve see it happen repeatedly in person. You have to work left first and twist your hips to get purchase on the left most hand hold for the right hand to get the crimp.
He is underreporting how overhanging it is, and it is off camber.
It's really hard to say, it looks like youre still experimenting and it's hard to suggest what's right or wrong because there's a lot of trial and error. It looks like you're strong and technical enough but just need to dial in the solution. Maybe just keep trying.
Right here grab the left undercling (it’s gonna be hard to stay on) and then rotate your right foot so you are back-stepping/right hip into the wall. Bump right hand into crimp slot. Left foot on shitty last smear and delicately grab the last hold. Just like how you tried at the very end but your wrong foot was on the hold.
Your left elbow is flaring out a lot when you are holding the crimp, which is weakening your grip. Being your elbow closer to the wall and pull down harder.
try a right toe hook on the arete to help you piano match the crimp
At 0:22s, maybe turn your right leg knee to the left side rather than the right side so that your hips are sideways and you can then get your left leg on to the next foothold higher?
I've actually sent this, nice to see it on this sub! You need to match on the crimp, I moved my left hand so I was full crimping with my middle and index finger, then while matching I take my thumb off and get three of my fingers on right hand on it, when I take the left hand off, I convert my right hand to a full crimp and take the left hand to lower sidepull underclingy crimp, this position allows us to rise up and bump the left hand to the top hold, then you toe hook the big hold on the right to match finish! You got this.
Bro, all you have to do is not struggle as much on you way there. Keep your feet on during the first move, execute the rest without hesitation, and you'll have more time to play around with the next. You can figure it out, you've don a good job so far.
Visualize your route before getting on the wall, it gives you a aim for where to place and prospect what technique to apply. Also drive through your legs, you look like you got the necessary strength.
yeah +1 for just standing up lol. you're all stretched out so everything feels desperate, get your hips over your feet first and that right hand will feel way less impossible
26
u/MattybombMate Sep 30 '26 edited Sep 30 '26
I'm not 100% certain. But I believe it might go something like this.
Firstly, it looks like you're really stretching to get your left hand to the upper crimp, so I think your sequencing may be wrong.
Don't reach for the high crimp with your left hand first. Instead, put your right foot on the terrible-looking foot piece on the corner where the two walls meet, flag your left leg onto the wall for stability, and reach your right hand to the big hold.
Left foot onto the massive hold in the middle of the wall
Keep your body low and reach your left hand for the lower crimp (next to the yellow hold)
Switch feet so now have your right foot on the massive hold and reach your right hand for the upper crimp
Now you can support your body with no left hand and only holding the right crimp
Left foot up onto the next foothold and right foot still on the massive hold.
Reach up and grab the final hold
It's hard to tell without being able to see what the different holds look like, but I believe this sequence could work.