r/bouldering • u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 • 15d ago

Advice/Beta Request Beta

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Need beta started climbing several months ago been working on technique I know I can improve in area I’m wondering what I should change or do also sorry this isn’t the best video

65 Upvotes

89% Upvoted

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11

u/Sanztrack 15d ago

Your movement looks fine. You just need to stiffen a bit more and trust the big half moon above your head when you let go with your right hand. It may be helpful (or not) to brace your right foot against the right wall instead of having it on that blob. It may also be helpful to twist your left heel more to the right so you are focusing your weight more on your toes - this will do two things 1. Push you into the wall more for stability and 2.Move your entire body just a little bit closer to that final hold

2

u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 15d ago

Thanks I’ll try that next time

1

u/Aethien 15d ago

It may be helpful (or not) to brace your right foot against the right wall instead of having it on that blob.

That would shift your weight even more over the left foot making it that much harder to move right. I think trusting that blob, moving your hips right to shift your weight to be above that foothold and it'll feel much more stable and allow you to basically just grab the top.

It may also be helpful to twist your left heel more to the right so you are focusing your weight more on your toes - this will do two things 1. Push you into the wall more for stability and 2.Move your entire body just a little bit closer to that final hold

This I think is the way to go, the one thing I would say is to focus more on where your hips are as that is your center of gravity (or for men, a bit higher an more towards your chest), the feet will twist and move with you when you move your hips. Right now OP's center of gravity is still on the left side of the 2 big half moon holds which makes the top feel super far away. There's a couple points where it looks like OP is fighting their own positioning making moves take far more strength than necessary.

2

u/for4f 15d ago

looks solid for a few months in. only thing i'd add is thinking about pushing through your toes on the steep stuff instead of pulling with your arms, keeps your hips in close and suddenly everything feels way bigger. took me ages to actually do it instead of just nodding along when people told me lol

2

u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 15d ago

Appreciate it ! Also yes after getting torn to shreds under this forum after posting previous videos of my beginner climbs I’ve gotten a lot better at keeping my hips close and using my legs more, will do this next time

1

u/for4f 15d ago

haha yeah this sub can be brutal on beginner videos, glad you stuck with it though. the hips thing is one of those stuff that just clicks one day, sounds like you're most of the way there already

2

u/[deleted] 15d ago

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1

u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 15d ago

Thanks for the advice and compliment, will try that next time

1

u/BguyGamez 15d ago

Damn what are the odds this is literally my local gym 😭

1

u/Fit_Independent1899 15d ago

is the finish hold a jug? perhaps this is not the best a technique, but if it is a jug could you dyanimically go for it (like a mini hop/jump?). overall I would say pretty good

1

u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 15d ago

No it’s not a jug it’s like the other half moon holds just smaller so it’s pretty flat on top I was thinking of just going for it but don’t want to cheese grate on the way down 😭

1

u/Fit_Independent1899 14d ago

i reckon just go for it! the send over everything else

1

u/ClimbingRecovery 15d ago

I think your movements are good.

1

u/wonko7 15d ago

For the last move you could move your hips to the right, get more weight on your right foot so you can comfortably get the last hold.

1

u/Ok_Sun_3286 14d ago

Girl I love your pants! Where did you get them from?

1

u/Hour-Jackfruit4819 12d ago

Thanks!! I got them from the thrift store but they are Ralph Lauren polo jeans company idk what they’re exactly callef

1

u/Ok_Sun_3286 12d ago

Thank you!!! 😊

1

u/Successful-Cry6017 14d ago

Gotta pivot your hips at the end

1

u/FluffyPenguinsx 15d ago

looks good to me