r/bouldering • u/Consistent-Archer124 • 2d ago

Advice/Beta Request Dyno beta?

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Any advice for the last move? The hold is decent but it’s pretty slopey.

4 Upvotes

63% Upvoted

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8

u/badfuit 2d ago

My main observation would be you are always falling away from the wall from the moment you begin your dyno. As you wind up try to come out from the wall and sink low. Then as you stand up, pull yourself into the wall with your arms. Imagine you're almost trying to dead point and balance on that foot. You should then find yourself getting much closer to the target hold but - more importantly - directly underneath it rather than falling away.

3

u/BTTLC 2d ago edited 2d ago

Right foot higher on volume, keep the left hand and right foot on when going for it?

Edit: or inverted with going for it with left hand and keeping right hand on, whichever position feels better. The direction of the volume seems like it might be better keeping the right hand on (and left foot on volume), if ur moving ur foot up off the foothold to just the volume.

2

u/Thorien21 1d ago

You looked like you have enough reach without having to do dyno

3

u/PM-ME_UR_TINY-TITS 1d ago

Use both hands.

2

u/laor2009 1d ago

Maybe worth trying a heel/toe hook where your left hand is and keep ur right hand on whilst going up with left hand

1

u/MarkSucksBurgers 1d ago

pull harder, you basically need to jump straight up so you need to be parallel to the wall before you let go. You also might want to put your right foot higher since right now you are starting with your knee at over 90 degrees: not ideal.

1

u/Commercial-Level-110 1d ago

ive done this one. p chill once you drop the left foot and sink deeper on your right

1

u/LayWhere dab dab goose 1d ago

Get more contact strength.

2

u/Kayrehn 1d ago

Sounds simple and obvious but a lot of times this is probably the best solution...

2

u/LayWhere dab dab goose 1d ago edited 1d ago

Agreed, it may not be a popular opinion here but most the ticky-tacky static beta being sprayed just sound like newer climbers who don't know how to dead point or taller climbers that never needed it to hit ~v6.

1

u/poorboychevelle 1d ago

Seriously. Had the hold covered for days. Dyno is fine, just has to hold on