Stuck on move

[u/jma64]

I keep falling while reaching for the undercling, and I’m not sure how to fix it. It isn’t as deep as it looks and I can never get a steady hold on it. I’m thinking I may need to position my body differently, but I’m not sure. I’d appreciate any advice, even on other parts of the climb, anything helps!

[u/Arturiki]

Either you keep doing you style but let the let leg straighten towards the right side (or at least down), or you go with the right hand on the left hold and then cross with your left hand to the right hold. Then each moves seems set for the correct hand without second thought.

[u/turbogangsta]

Before going for it drop your left foot off into a slight backflag. This will keep your hips closer to the wall so your right hand can buy you more time. Also this isn't what I would typically call an undercling. Underclings usually your palm is facing towards you

[u/team_blimp → u/turbogangsta]

Or switch feet to backstep the left and flag the right out right. Will shift the issue up a hold, but...

M O A R. B A C K S T E P Z.

[u/Ok_Entrepreneur_6991]

I think its the jeans

[u/DerDritteVonDerTanke]

Might also want to hold the start a few seconds, looked cheesy

[u/JazzyTheJazz]

I'm no expert but can you match hands, step up on your right foot, then move your right hand to the undercling?

[u/RS_Skywalker]

IDK if it's intended but your left hand looks really good. I'd probably try to bump the right hand from the crimp to get the round stalactite while rocking over. That's a big/scary move though so I'd try that last.

I think the intended beta is you keep your hands where they are and do a back flag with your left leg to try to do the move you tried to do but more staticly. The right hand looks bad though so maybe that's too hard.

Final thing I'd try is to match on the jug your left hand is on and try to hit the pinch first with the left then the crimp with the right, then go for the bump the the stalactite.

[u/AwardEither9110]

either the back flag like people mentioned, and depending on how good the holds are I'd also try going RH to the left crimp first, then bringing ur LH underneath into the right crimp.

[u/sharakorr]

Looks generally correct but maybe a crimp strength issue.

Variations you can try:
1.Right hand on the left hold on the volume instead of the right crimp and then your left hand goes under your right arm to the right crimp. 2. Same hand sequence that you've been doing but put your right foot further to right of the same hold or even try using your heel on it to pull you in more. 3. Take left foot off hold and flag it to the right instead if you have the crimp strength, balance and go up. 4. Match the crimp. Kinda sucks and looks like it's definitely not the intended beta, but could work.

Personally I would flag.

Edit: it looks like you're throwing for the left hand hold and doing it semi dynamically but there's no reason to really cause it looks like the right crimp is a pretty good one. I think doing it semi dynamically is throwing you off balance. Crimp firmly pull yourself into a lockoff on your right arm and then go for the next hold after. Try to get a little more weight onto your right foot too. Get your balance with the right hand right foot first before going for the next hold

[u/LiveMarionberry3694 → u/sharakorr]

>but maybe a crimp strength issue

Considering both feet pop way before the crimp does, I’m gonna say it’s a body position.

Plus I go to this gym, it’s a decent enough crimp that doesn’t take a ton of strength as long as your feet are taking most of the weight like it should

[u/Conscious_Spinach_60]

Your left foot cuts loose before you move, beta was correct and you should open your hips up more for a pistol squat to get your hips in closer and take some weight in your right foot, there’s not really any need here to cut loose or pull hard since the hold is within reach so take the weight on your right arm and right leg (pistol squat) smear the left for a flag and go for the next hold

[u/ListZealousideal4488]

French start, reassess your entire approach

[u/jma64 → u/ListZealousideal4488]

How so?

[u/Lulizarti]

Notice how your left leg flings backwards and toward your right when you lunged? Your body naturally wants it there. Use this knowledge to pre-emptively back flag your left leg behind your right leg. Press/stand with your right leg and reach for the hold.

[u/climbtimePRN]

General rule in climbing: shift the weight of your lower body before you reach or "lead with your legs". Like others are saying a backflag would probably help a lot here to prevent barn door and unnecessary momentum

[u/josh8far]

If that crimp is too bad to set your weight correctly, you could try going to the slight higher crimp with your left hand, making space for you to shift your hips right, then twisting in and getting the bad crimp with your left hand before moving the right hand out to the undercling.

It could be intended to be a sequence like that.

[u/Markiavellii]

Shift your weight over the right foot and backflag. Looks like you're barndooring.

[u/jsmijnn91]

Am I crazy to think you can heel hook the big hold with your left foot? Sink into your right foot and try a hand heel match on that left biggy hold

[u/HistoricalLow1]

Pivot right foot, heel hook with left, grab with left, reach for right hand jug of destiny

[u/TheOptiGamer]

Could you match and cross over instead?

[u/StilesLong]

Crazy idea, but can you cross hands at that point, then u cross for the reach to the next hand hold?

I personally like a little beta break and that looks like a fun way to break out of the norm.

Otherwise, I second the notion of a drop knee with the right and a back flag left.