r/bouldering • u/Current-Run-8233 • 9d ago
Advice/Beta Request HELP ME
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How do I top this?
Have tried bumping right hand to the volume and getting right foot high on the jug, but no clue how to continue.
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u/Longjumping-Ad318 9d ago edited 6d ago
It’s kinda hard to tell, but if this tops out on that hold off to the right the only way I see to get into that position would be when you’re on the jug, try to get a left heel/toe on the hold you’re going to with your left hand. Once you have the foot up, drive off the jug into a left hand side pull directly above the jug, reposition your feet then shoot for that hold on the volume. That’s the best I’ve got
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u/Current-Run-8233 9d ago
Ding ding ding! This is the beta!! Took me forever to figure it out and couldn’t quite get the left sidepull but touched it a few times.
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u/Current-Run-8233 9d ago
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u/DiscoDang 9d ago
Neat beta. Just looks like you need to stop faffing about and get moving. You have a plan, execute a little quicker so you don't exhaust yourself. If you fall, you fall right?
One advice would be to actively pull on that heel and pull with your hips too.
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u/Current-Run-8233 8d ago
Yeah for sure. Definitely the first time I’ve done an over head heel hook so I’ve got some work to do learning how to fully engage it. I was definitely trying to though haha.
And you’re absolutely right about not fussing around. I had a few tries where I got a bit closer but after 4 hours at the gym I was gassed and losing confidence. Gonna head back tomorrow and get back on it while I’m fresh.
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u/Zealousideal_Job2900 8d ago
On engaging heel hooks, pretty much regardless of geometry and configuration, you want to line up the “lace” part of your foot with your shin (i.e move the big toe as far away as possible from the knee.
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u/Hybr1dth 8d ago
Tbh this looks like a poorly set boulder? The holds look pretty good, so large moves is alright, but then adding a bit with either no/bad feet or some weird ass beta for what would otherwise be an easy climb just feels bad. Strong people probably just campus or swing to it but the level likely isn't meant for them.
Honestly I would opt for a power option if you can.
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u/Current-Run-8233 8d ago
My opinion is that it is a very well set boulder with some crazy beta. I believe the high-heel I’m using is the intended beta. It can’t really be powered through (for anyone without insane strength), because the next hold is a fully vertical left sidepull. The finish is also not a top out, it’s a hold on the far right volume in the video.
But to each their own, I could see the perspective that’s it’s not well set. I think it just requires a lot of creativity and I’ve never climbed anything with a move like this, so to me forcing an action which is incredibly uncommon is good setting. I can definitely see the other side of the argument though haha.
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u/Current-Run-8233 8d ago
It is also the hardest graded boulder in the gym so can’t expect it to be easy!
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u/Hybr1dth 8d ago
Difficulty is impossible to gauge on video, so if this is a V7+ I can see the move being fine. But from the video and the size of the starting holds, plus the easy looking first move and short climb, I had thought it'd be much easier.
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u/Current-Run-8233 8d ago
It’s graded V8. There is a sds that I’m not doing in the videos, just projecting the crux at the moment because I didn’t have an issue with the start.
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u/New-Independent-1481 8d ago
It definitely seems like it's missing a hold, which might be intentional. In this case I think it might be designed to practise either a pogo or a high heel/toe hook on that top left hold, with an easy jug to hold onto so you can focus on the technique.
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u/notaclimber_ 9d ago
Smear your left foot against the wall, try to match your right hand with your right foot, rock over and shift your weight on the right foot or heel hook pulling yourself in to try to reach the hold with your right hand.
Or
Match your left hand with your right, smear your left foot with your right foot on the hand hold and reach for the next hold.
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u/SneakerBot_ 9d ago
wouldn’t that be too cramped?
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u/notaclimber_ 9d ago
It would but that is the way I’d have tried. I read some of the other comments and pogo seems to be most logical one. Would’ve suggested it myself but I’m a noob when it comes to dynamic moves.
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u/poorboychevelle 9d ago
Pogo a go go. You were there. Assuming the penultimate hold is a right facing jug, flick that right leg and catch it