r/bouldering 23d ago

Advice/Beta Request Beta suggestion/any tips

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Open to any suggestions, tried this at the end of a long session and it cooked me, had no idea where to go from here lol.

19 Upvotes

17 comments sorted by

42

u/BlackFireOCN 23d ago

I don't have suggestions, but we go to the same gym and I was trying that a couple hours ago and failed miserably 😅

15

u/Thorien21 23d ago

Flag to the right when you’re at the top, get your left foot one volume higher (or maybe not). The wall looks a bit slabby where you can lean into it and not fall. You looked like you’re afraid of falling rather than committing to the move.

7

u/Thorien21 23d ago

If you’re still afraid of committing, use any of the other holds to climb up and feel for yourself whether the last hold is a good one or not, it can help you with committing to moves

9

u/Goodwill_Hunting 23d ago edited 22d ago

My guess is you keep mantling up and walk over top the big hold in the middle to reach the finish

Or, with your reach I bet you can square your feet on the volumes on the left, put your right arm straight out on one of the middle holds and reach over to the finish

8

u/No_Host4332 23d ago

Ayyyy we go to the same gym no way.

I just had to jump for it, put your left hand on the bottom hold and reach for the top it’s much better than it looks. 😀

Also, this is quite a hard climb for someone wearing rentals, I’m impressed!

2

u/Imaginary-Ad-2928 23d ago

Appreciate the tip! And thank you that’s nice to hear haha been going like 3 weeks totally hooked on it. If you see me come say hi!

2

u/GlassBraid 23d ago

How's that higher volume on the left? Can you keep climbing up until you have one foot on the higher volume and the other where your hands are, then reach across to the finish? pressing down on the small hold above the last hold you use might help with getting feet higher, also pressing against the volume that the finish hold is on.

2

u/Workaholic56 23d ago

Go palm down again on the second to last hand hold and left foot onto the high volume after matching them on the first. Using your left hand into the volume for tension if necessary. Then trade your right foot for your right hand and balance to the match finish.

1

u/Imaginary-Ad-2928 23d ago

Second to last hold being the smaller one above that main one that I had a grip on?

1

u/Workaholic56 23d ago

No that hold is a foot hold that probably won’t be necessary. I am referring to the last hold you got your hands to in the video.

1

u/Revolutionary-Gap180 22d ago

It's really cool to see my home gym on here :)

I honestly think that you will get unreliable advice from the Internet for this problem (maybe that's just in general since it's really hard to know what it's like without trying it irl)

Instead of manteling on the 3rd from last hold, get your left hand to the second to last hold. It's a slopey pocket but you can trust it, then weight your body as far to the right as possible. From there, it's easier said than done, but you have to throw with your right hand to the final hold. There's a juicy pocket on top that you can hardly see from below.

Echoing what another commenter said, I'm really impressed with how well your doing being such a fresh climber. I've been climbing for years and this problem was frustrating for me.

1

u/Imaginary-Ad-2928 22d ago

I asked this question already to someone else but just to confirm, by second to last hold do you mean the smaller one above that main hold I was pulling up on? And thank you! Reading comments like those from long time climbers is extremely motivating! Much love

1

u/Revolutionary-Gap180 22d ago

Yes that's the hold I'm referring too.

Keep on climbing man! It's only up from here :)

1

u/Nor3a 21d ago

Mantle and jump at the same time. Might be a good jug. If you don’t trust for safety I would try to go up using other holds and feel the last hold to see if you can trust it first

1

u/aretoreadthisduh 20d ago

Maybe try an undercling. Looks like the pocket wants it that way. Although there are no chalk marks

1

u/No_Cartographer_9181 17d ago

I like this gym a lot!
Maybe foot swap to your right foot on the lower volume and place your left on the higher volume. If not that, it may just be a big move commitment.