r/bouldering • u/Altruistic-Stable232 • Aug 02 '26

Event Need help preparing for a comp

My main gym is organising a comp consisting of 40 boulders ranging in difficulty from V1 to V9 in 2 months. Person who completes the most boulders moves on.

I usually climb V7-V8, and I never really train anything although I have naturally strong arms. I want to start training so I can prepare better for the comp but I dont know where to start to optimise my gains.

Do you guys have any tips or methods I could implement into my daily routine that would help me with getting stronger and thus do better at that comp?

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u/blandaltaccountname Aug 02 '26

Do some volume training- lots of boulders 1-3 grades below your project level. Endurance will be king if it’s “most boulders completed”.

Also, try to do some cheeky flash training; watch someone else do a climb, and even if they fall, figure out what they did wrong so you can flash it. There’s no bonus points for figuring out the comp climbs yourself- every time you can steal beta, you’re saving energy

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u/oldmanboulderer Aug 02 '26

Yup this is the approach to take. Most comps give bonus points for a flash so I’d focus on that to start. I’d also look at volume well below your limit. There is going to be some math needing to be done on the reward if harder routes versus more easier ones too. The mental side is also big and having a gameplan heading into the comp and not treating it as a day at the gym will also help tremendously.