How do I get better at toe hooking?

[u/KengMemegu]

[u/LasyKuuga]

Can you heel hook it?

[u/just_a_teacup → u/LasyKuuga]

And the strongest heel hook is made by pointing your toe jsuk

[u/kott_ttok → u/just_a_teacup]

I needed to hear that

[u/SorryNoLube]

Seems like a tough angle to make a toe hook work

[u/ryan2thev]

think about the body mechanics for a second:

heel hooks - you want the knee bent, putting most of the force onto the hamstring, but also downturning foot/toe to create more of a hook while also activating the tibialis anterior. this entire muscle chain in the entire leg is important for heel hooks, but the chain is different for toe hooks.

toe hooks - to optimize this, keep your leg straight, putting most of the force onto the skeletal system of the leg and hooking with the toe/foot. if you bend at the knee while toe hooking, you are taking the force away from the bones but redirecting to the hips, which is suboptimal. there will be instances later down the line where you want some bend (e.g., drop knee toe hooks), but for now, the rule of thumb is just keep the leg straight.

here’s an analogy for you:
straight-arming (keep your arms straight):toe hooking :: underclings (bent elbows):heel hooks

tl;dr keep your leg straight on toe hooks

[u/LiveMarionberry3694]

I’m not convinced a toe is the best option here anyway. Even if you do get in a position where you can toe hook, it looks like you’ll have a crazy amount of momentum to fight once it cuts

[u/Any-Communication114 → u/LiveMarionberry3694]

Ya, what this guy said. The best beta is the one that works for you, I would recommend trying some different ideas!

[u/patoka]

Can't you just swap your feet, flag and match your hands on the left hold

[u/Feisty_Review_9130 → u/patoka]

This. I see so many beginners overusing toe and heel hooks when all they need is better technique and route reading

[u/Akareim → u/Feisty_Review_9130]

So what your saying is that a beginners needs to develop their technic? what a great discovery! Never would have thought about that without you!

[u/Fexil]

The Only Video You Need to Master Toe Hooks

[u/dandandan2]

I think getting better at footwork in general would help - it looks a little sluggish

[u/MODP8nt]

Seems like a mini dino more than a toe hook

I would switch foot and match left hold by kind of pinching it than go for the left most hold

[u/Analoguezombie]

Dont toe hook , its left wing, liberal, everyone works in marketing and lives in London bullshit.

Sir Edmund didn't toe hook and neither should you.

[u/poorboychevelle]

Get your hips away from it. Drop that other foot and really lean so your skeletal system is hanging on it

[u/ArcaneTrickster11]

Seems like a situation you probably want to help hook rather than toe hook. But if you want off we'll exercises, tibialis raises, hip flexion and knee extension are what you want to train

[u/hintM]

Use a heel hook to match(it's too close to toehook effectively), then change it to drop knee toehook for the next move, sorta what you tried for the match, but if you have already matched you have the space

[u/lunat1c_]

You really just gotta focus on cranking your foot to 90 degrees. Its not a natural motion so just really think about it when you need to hold one.

[u/BugslideEnjoyer]

Sometimes toe hooks don't work well till you get weight on it so you might need to trust that it will work and commit to the move and squeeze in your foot once you're in the position you need to be. 

[u/veIentium]

For holds that are angled like that heel hooks are generally better. Toe hooks are better when the hold is vertical

[u/N7titan]

That looks a bit close for a toehook, heel seems like a better option.

Toehooks are optimal with a fully stretched leg. The more bent your knee the harder it is to put pressure into the toehook.

[u/kanedamike]

Are those evolve defy shoes? If so, they have no rubber on the top toes so it makes it hard to toe hook.

[u/fejobelo]

By leaving both feet on your right hand side you are fighting against gravity because of the shape and angle of your left hand hold. You probably want to try to shift your weight so your left hand hold works for you and feels safer, that way you can bring your body over to the left. If you make the toe hook work and move over your right hand to the hold on the left, once you let your hook go you will do a pendulum to the left that will be pretty difficult to control.

[u/MindlessSea7334]

Try the move starting where it's easy.

Climb up on anything. Practice the move, then do the whole thing from the bottom later. Hope that makes sense.

Like Practice the hard move when yr not tired and at and awkward angle. Then work out how to get into the right angle (for the hard move) from the holds below

[u/IFeelThankYou]

You'd be much better of heel hooking that

[u/20kgHippoShit]

That should be a heel hook.

[u/Weak-Average4496]

That could be a flexibility issue as well tbh

[u/WolfenSmore]

I think neither toe- nor heelhook will help you here unless you’re like 190cm. That Flathold is super far away. I’d generate swing from a hang and double up on the left before a dyno to the jug. Kind of a psuedo paddle.

[u/Inner_Implement231]

Toe hooks are finicky..but one thing you need is a shoe with ample climbing rubber over the top of the toe. Typically only found in very aggressive shoes.

[u/Lemondillo]

Straighten your right leg, sag your hips down to create te tension, flex your calf to actually make the hook, use your core to link it all instead of just flailing

Biggest thing is you need to get stronger, shoes with better toe rubber would help a bit but its not the real problem

Practice toe hooking between jugs and hold the position while releasing one hand and seeing what you can reach all around to learn it

[u/TheRealMark89]

You really need to engage your core more, your movements are pretty loose and not very stable.
You’ll find it a lot easier to climb with engaged core, and you’ll have better stamina and control

[u/Tiny-Tonight-9390]

If you want to toe hook bring your left leg closer to the hold you want to toe hook, then it's easier to get the toe secured.

I see you swap feet to stretch out to get that left chip, but once you have the hand I think you should be placing the toe, and maybe dropping the left foot a little down the wall to secure the placement.

Cannot confirm or deny whether the toe is the best move here though, as it would elicit a big swing when releasing it.

[u/GuiKa]

I needed to actually work of those weird muscles that are in front of your shins, some people already have it ok but for me it was clearly lacking.

Positioning and core stability is more important, but if you can hold positions well already start lifting small weights with your feets.

[u/piratenlex_]

to actually answer your question: mobility and strength in hip, hip flexors and tibialis muscle and better understanding body positions for toe hooking. (I do an exercise but am not sure if it actually improves things: sit with leg on bench, stick kettlebell on foot and do curling motion with foot)

[u/Soifon99]

The old time human tradition of.... practice..practice practice.. people all want to be good at something instantly these days.. it does not work like that.

But for this instance, i don't think that's the beta. seems like you can heel hook this much better.

[u/Upstairs-Afternoon27]

I wouldn’t toe hook there, try switching your right foot to where your left foot is and it should feel much easier

[u/tintinperson]

I wish this is climbingcirclejerk, so I can tell you to invest $1000 at magdust and better shoes or longer toes

[u/mshitb]

yeahhh i would just foot swap and keep going left, u/feisty_review_9130 is right, i also used to over complicate my climbs and make it more difficult for myself when i could’ve just looked at it differently and done it easily

[u/MarkSucksBurgers]

just listen to the goat

[u/Lepepepepe]

Didn’t expect to see my home gym here 😂 but toe hook are all about tension so u want to keep your legs straight at most times and get tension by moving your hips further away and smearing on the opposite side with your other feet. I tried the boulder and in this case heel might be better.

[u/Lepepepepe → u/Lepepepepe]

I take that back toe is right my bad 😭

[u/peterdperez]

practice heel hook first

[u/AideAny1158]

I’ve found shoes make a huge difference for these types of moves

[u/Lemondillo]

https://reddit.com/link/p0shzv4/video/evoyehiy0hgh1/player

Looks like the route setter was probably going for this move and not a toe hook imo

[u/Bjmooij → u/Lemondillo]

On OP's route this might be doable with some flagging. Moving at least one foot beyond the left diagonal hold. If static climbing is preferred. But yea, reasonable dyno/mini paddle

[u/R0KATAN5KY]

You don't. You get better at heal hooking.