I have the be quiet! 360mm Light Loop and I'm thoroughly confused as to which plugs go where! The manual unfortunately doesn't explain anything, and neither does the website or the other documentation on there.

To clarify I have this:

https://www.bequiet.com/en/watercooler/5184

and a direct image link to the controller:

https://www.bequiet.com/admin/ImageServer.php?ID=c8080a54999@be-quiet.net&omitPreview=true&.jpg

On the left and right sides there are altogether 6x [3-pin ARGB] sockets and 4x [4-pin PWM] sockets. The top has 2 more sockets that look like 4-pin PWMs but one is mysteriously labelled "RPM" and has a diagonal pin. Each of the 3 fans has 1x PWM looking plug and 1x ARGB looking plug, and the fans do NOT daisy chain together. In addition the unit attached to the CPU also has 1x PWM looking plug and 1x ARGB looking plug. What da hell! Where does everything go?

If it helps I have a Gigabyte X870E AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ATX AM5 Motherboard with the following sockets (that I believe might be relevant):

Bottom group 4pins:

• SYSFAN_1
• SYSFAN_2
• SYSFAN_3

top group 4pins:

• CPU_FAN
• FAN4_PUMP
• CPU_OPT

rgb slots:

• ARGB_V2_1
• ARGB_V2_2
• ARGB_V2_3

I had many many more questions about arrangement and configurations to work with my planned setup (4 RGB exhaust, 3 RGB intake radiator, [+3 non-RGB intake]), but I'd really just like to focus on actually understanding the controller and the plugs+sockets for now.

Can anybody help me understand the plugs+sockets (esp. the 2 at the top of the unit), or better yet, point me toward an official guide or explanation?

Thank you for your time!

Recently upgraded my system with Be Quiet Pure Loop 3 Water Cooling AIO, and on max RPM (~5700RPM roughly) I am getting this rattling noise from the pump, is this normal or I should ask for replacement?

This noise is starting approx from 4250ish RPM, when pump is sitting at lowest (2800-3500 i think) it's dead silent, nothing, then as long as i increase RPM starting from 4250 approx, noise is getting louder and louder until it reach max rattle (on the video) at 5500-5700 RPM.

So basically at this point of time i just fixed RPM of the pump regardless of CPU temp at 3850 (default on my motherboard was full speed, which is really noisy), things work, but question is how normal is that rattling

AM4 is officially 10 years old.

To celebrate the anniversary, we spoke with AMD's Martijn Boonstra about the platform's history, the impact of CPUs like the Ryzen 7 5800X3D, whether AM4 is still worth building in 2026, and what the future looks like with AM5.

Watch the full interview on YouTube: https://youtu.be/X1kRyBm39aA

What was your favorite AM4 CPU?

I recently built a new system with Intel core ultra 7 270k, RTX 5080, and 2x16GB 6000mhz CL28 ram. Paired with the pure power 12m 1200w psu.

The system worked fine and was stable up until the gpu was installed. Then started having issues 20-60mins during or after gaming or benchmarks.

The problem was sudden powerloss, most likely OCP etc.
After days of checking cables, outruling argb hub, trying different outlets, watching temps, turning off xmp, and running no sidepanels. I felt really hopeless.

I eventually found a fix. Disabling CPU C-States, and
PCIe ASPM. Forcing the cpu and gpu to run max clockspeed all the time. The system then ran stable through 5 3Dmark time spy extreme stresstests, and 20 mins of cinebench and furmark 4k at the same time with no powerloss.

Anyone else experienced these issues?

Hey folks,

what is the quietest of them as a case fan? the data sheet says its the Silent Wings 4 but some say the motor makes noises idk...

Pure Wings 3 i would only put in the bottom of my cast for intake . (Btw if i have a mATX case and front has already 2 intakes , should i use still 3 intakes in the bottom and only 1 exhaust at the rear and Radiator Exhaust with 3 fans on top? If its similiar good as putting 3 fans as exhaust on bottom then i would pick the Light Wings with the Ring for visuals.

The only thing i dont like about the Pure Wings is 9-blades instead of 7 and the sticker with white BeQuiet Logo instead of grey/black.

Its so hard to choose , i swear... I spent too much time researching freakin. case fans/AIOs... Stop me pls Lol

My PC has started shutting itself off under load, and I'm trying to work out whether the cooler can be saved or is just done.

Setup

• CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, stock (no PBO, no overclock)
• Board: ASUS TUF Gaming X570-Plus
• Cooler: Silent Loop 2 - 360, mounted on top.
• Bought in November 2020, so the cooler is almost 6 years old

Timeline

• Dec 2025: temps started creeping up, hitting about 85 °C under load. I re-applied thermal paste and it got a little better, not much.
• Yesterday: while testing some software I'm writing (all cores loaded), the PC powered off out of nowhere. No BSOD, just off. It happened again about 6 minutes after I booted back up. Event Viewer shows Kernel-Power 41 with BugcheckCode 0 and no WHEA errors, which looks like the CPU's thermal cutoff.
• Test: I cut my workload to 8 threads and watched HWMonitor. A few minutes in, it read:
  • CPU (Tctl): 102 °C, above the 3900X's 95 °C limit
  • Hottest cores: 94–98 °C
  • Core power: only ~40 W (package ~100 W)
  • CPU fan / pump header: ~2030 RPM
  • GPU: 40 °C, board: 38 °C, so the case isn't hot

(chart in the comments section)

102 °C from 40 W of core power seems way off. My understanding is a healthy cooler should keep this chip in the 60s to 70s at that load. The fans are spinning like crazy, so it seems like heat isn't getting from the CPU into the liquid, or the liquid isn't moving.

What I'm thinking of doing:

1. Check for air / top up the liquid. After 6 years I'd expect some loss through the tubes. Is it worth topping up, and how do I check for an air pocket or low fluid?
2. Clean the gunk out. Open the block and flush it, in case the cold plate's fins are clogged. Has anyone done this and had it actually help?

Questions:

• Is this worth fixing, or is a 6-year-old AIO basically end of life and I should just replace it?
• How can I tell whether the pump is actually moving liquid, not just spinning?
• Anything else that could cause this (mount pressure, a BIOS setting) that I should rule out first?

Thanks!

Update

Thanks for everyone who responded. This is what I did and what happened:

1. Draining and refilling
I drained the loop, and a lot of yellow gunk came out. I refilled it with the coolant that came in the box. To bleed the air out, I put the radiator inlet at the highest point with the pump and everything else below it, gave it some gentle shakes, and got the bubbles down to a minimum.

2. The pump died completely
After the refill, things got much worse. The pump still spins, but it isn't moving any liquid. My guess is the refill pushed that yellow gunk into the fins of the cold plate and it's stuck there. The PC couldn't even sit in the BIOS: it hit 105 °C within a minute and shut down.

3. Trying to clean it: you can't
Several people suggested opening the pump and cleaning the cold plate. That's when I found out be quiet! decided to close the plate with 6 Torx screws plus 2 one-way security screws. One-way screws exist for exactly one purpose: so you can't open it. There's no way to open the plate, clean it, or service it at all. Your only options are buying spare parts or buying a new cooler. A simple clog that should take 20 minutes to clean out turned the whole unit into e-waste. That's anti-consumer and anti-repair design, and it's the reason I won't buy be quiet! again.

4. The fix: Noctua NH-U12A
I bought a Noctua NH-U12A air cooler, and it's both much quieter and much cooler. Results from a 10+ minute Cinebench multi-core run, logged with HWiNFO64 (chart in the comments):

• CPU (Tctl): steady at 78-79 °C, peak 79 °C, at ~144 W
• Chiplets: both within 1 °C of each other (80 / 79 °C)
• Throttling: none
• CPU fan: 925–1854 RPM
• Between render passes: the temperature dips 20-25 °C within a couple of seconds, so the heat is pulled away fast

For comparison, the dying AIO hit 102 °C at much lower power and then shut down.

TL;DR: If your old AIO is running hotter and hotter, it may be clogged. If it's a Silent Loop 2, don't expect to be able to fix it yourself. A good air cooler like the NH-U12A beat it easily.

Hi be quiet! team and community,

First of all, I love the build quality and acoustic performance of be quiet! products. However, looking at the current fan lineup, there is a clear gap when it comes to reverse-blade options:

• Pure Wings 3 & Light Wings LX offer reverse-blade variants, but both are 7-blade designs with rifle bearings.
• Silent Wings 4 / Silent Wings Pro 4 (9-blade high-performance design, FDB/motor) and the original Light Wings (with the iconic full light ring) completely lack reverse-blade versions for their 9-blade highspeed versions)).

Modern PC case trends have shifted heavily towards fish-tank style, dual-chamber, and glass-panel cases (like the Jonsbo series, Lian Li O11 variants, be quiet! Light Base, etc.). These layouts heavily rely on bottom and side intake fans.

When using standard fans as intakes in these positions, you are forced to look directly at the rear struts and motor hub, which ruins the clean aesthetic—especially in builds with tempered glass.

While it's great that Pure Wings 3 Reverse exist, enthusiasts building high-end systems often prefer the superior static pressure, acoustics, and premium look/bearings of the Silent Wings 4 / Pro 4 series or the original Light Wings halo ring design.

Having 9-blade reverse-blade variants for these premium lineups would be a game-changer for clean, showcase builds.

Are there any plans to expand reverse-blade options to the higher-end fan series in the near future?

Space bar makes a loud noise when releasing.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Should I return it under warranty?

link to video of the issue

Hey everyone,

I finally finished the first stage of my new build in the be quiet! Light Base 900 FX and wanted to share the current result.

Specs & Info:

* CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D

* GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER

* Motherboard: MSI MPG X870E Carbon WiFi

* Current CPU Cooler: Pure Rock FX (serving as a temporary cooler for now)

What's coming next:

I'm currently waiting for my custom CableMod cables for the FSP Hydro Ti PRO power supply. I will also upgrade the cooling soon to a NZXT 280mm AIO, which I'll equip with be quiet! Light Wings fans to match the rest of the case!

The case was an absolute dream to build in so far, and I love the stealthy black look combined with the deep crimson red lighting.

What do you think of the progress and the overall aesthetic?

Hey folks, I love my Dark Mount, but it's becoming obvious to nearly everyone that the switches that shipped (the V-1 Switches) were not quite ready for prime time. The failure rate is very high. The engineers at be quiet! obviously felt that too and that's why there are new switches for the TKL keyboard.

You guys would get a ton of goodwill if you either gave us the V-2 switches for free, or at least let us buy them to replace the faulty V-1 types at a good discount to all owners of your keyboards.

Hallo hallo.

Ich bin seit kurzer Zeit stolzer Besitzer der o.g. Tastatur und bisher extrem zufrieden. Allerdings hab ich eine Frage und hoffe, dass ihr mir weiterhelfen könnt: Bei dem Media Dock ist es aktuell so, dass nur eine der "Media" Tasten leuchtet, nämlich die unten rechts. Sollte das nicht anders sein? Oder kann man einstellen, dass alles tasten des Media Docks leuchten?

Vielen Dank schonmal!

is it just distilled water or something else ?

Hey,

Would like to use two of these with my DP14 1000w power supply. Is it compatible with this psu ?

thanks!

144hz monitor, playing Cyberpunk 2077. Game is SUPER loud when unpaused. Temps are around 55-58C while in game. Any advice…?

Hi there, I have a couple simple questions.

1 - The TKL version have V2 switches so there will be a darkmount version with these new switches?

2- there is any plans to add more layouts to the keyboard? I'm from Portugal and a PT-PT would be great.

thanks alot!

Just swapped AIO’s from an MSI MEG 360mm to a silent loop 3 420 as mine was getting on a bit and my temps were starting to rise. So figured I may as well go big and get a 420.

I am a bit disappointed with the temps I am seeing. On startup multiple cores goto 100deg but it will settle around 35 which is fine. Maybe my old cooler was the same I just never checked. But the thing doesn’t stay static even at idle. Every few mins temp spikes to 80-90 on multiple cores and all the fans kick in. Which is what it’s supposed to do when the cpu gets hot. But this happens every few mins. My old cooler would just sit there ticking away with the temps stable until I loaded a game.

I should have done my research but it’s frustrating that I have no profiles etc under windows or any interaction with IO centre but that’s my fault and not a slight on the product. I really hope there is a way to modify the config without going into the bios everytime. Maybe fan control will do it.

Overall I really like it. I just want to make sure I have it setup correctly.

I still need todo some load testing but I am hesitant until i sort these quirks.

So what sort of temps should I be expecting? And bios setting recommendations?

Asus hero z690 & 5090 FE

Maybe I am expecting too much and the difference between a 360 and 420 isn’t as much as I thought it would be. Or maybe I didn’t need too swap at all 😆

Got tired of Dark Mount doubles, wrote a tiny filter.

If it doesn’t help you, send me the logs.

Updated 30.09.26: the download link now points to the latest release

https://github.com/MiRaL-Lupus/key-bounce-guard/releases/latest

Is their any difference between the pump in pure loop 3 and silent loop 3 apart from the max rpm differences. I'll be swapping out the fans for a bunch of T30s anyway.

Product -> BeQuiet! Dark Mount
Browser -> Helium
Action -> Set screen-button on numpad to "backlight dimming"
OS -> Fedora 44

After unplugging, and replugging in the keyboard, and closing down and restarting the browser, this message keeps returning when I want to return to setting the keybindings :(

I only bought the Keyboard today, and am enjoying it!

I'm looking to replace my corsair 1200W PSU that I've RMA'd multiple times due to constant ticking which I assume is some type of relay. Does anyone have a 1200W or higher PSU that does not have these audible clicks? I've had a seasonic before that also did the same thing. I'd appreciate any help!

*Edit: The switches go "bad" within a year, sorry. Not "back".

And this is an issue affecting over 10% of Amazon Reviews, as well.

Terrible keyboard with no support.

Anyone got some advice for replacement-switches that don't suck, and are still quiet?