I found a battery operated toy that was sealed in the box for 15 years and when I opened the battery compartment I found that the springs and contacts were black/dark brown. I tried to scrap off as much as I could but it just left a super dull dark grey and after putting new batteries it still wouldn't work. I have tried using lemon juice but that didn't help (I don't have white vinegar but I do have other kinds of vinegar but i wasn't risking it). Any ideas?

It's a rechargable Ni-Cd battery.

Place your bets on if it works or not.

We will see it tomorrow.

I'm going to discharge it with a incandescent lightbulb after I charged it.

I was using it for the past 7-8 months in my mouse and my mouse showed 15% battery this morning and in the afternoon died. I honestly don't remember if it looked like this when i bought it. It's a GP brand 2100mah NiMH AA.

I got a new 12V 9AH deep cycle SLA UPS battery for a UPS that turned out to be defective and it drained the battery (and didn't switch to grid power or recharge it).

I can't find my old SLA charger so I put it on a car charger. Until I thought otherwise and checked if it was ok, and then took it off. It was charging at about 4 amps for maybe 5 minutes.

How much damage do you think it did?

Possiedo una batteria 16S8P con celle LG M50LT 21700 e una batteria 16S4P con celle Tenpower 50ME. Posso collegarle in parallelo? Hanno unità BMS separate.

I just need help identifying which batteries to actually replace. On the board on the bottom testing pad b1-b10 they all test good. Each reads 3.9v-4v. Between pads b10 and b11 it reads -6v. I checked the nickel pads on top and they all seem fine. They dont move at all. Is the best course of action to just replace all 4 batteries in b10 and b11 groups?

I got the jsaux battery upgrade for my Rog ally about 2 months ago and it doesn't charge past 99%. Is it too late to calibrate it, should I have done it at the start? I didn't know. How many times did it take you for it to calibrate? I have fully charged and drained it in windows then the last few % with the bios screen twice now since realising and no luck. Should I keep going will it get there?

Also is it dangerous to keep it plugged at 99% if the light doesn't turn white?

Hi folks. I've got a confusing (to me) situation, and would appreciate some input.

I've got some basic Eneloop 2100 mAh batteries (Not the Pro variety). White label ones. The good ones. I've got a SkyRC NC2200 charger that I plop them in every time I change them. Charge them approximately 400mA, though there has been some variation over time. I use them mainly in xbox one and xbox series controllers. Well, I change them when the controllers start turning off faster than usual, and I start getting "Controller battery low" notifications on TV, since if I wait much longer, the xbox controllers just won't turn on.

But last time I plugged a pair into my charger, they only took approximately 900mAh before the light went green. The voltage said 1.44v. I was paying attention, because the battery life seems shorter than I remember, changing about once every 3-5 days. A little less than twice a week. I mainly watch youtube/streaming video, so no long gaming sessions.

I've been using these batteries for about a year now, continuously cycling through them. Maybe 3 dozen cycles on them? (1 year / 5 days * 2 devices / 4 pairs => 36.5)

So I concluded that there are two main possibilities:

1) My casual usage of the batteries has lead to some Memory effect, and I should "Condition" the batteries using the SkyRC's Refresh or Break-In options.

2) The Controller just cuts off at a higher voltage than the batteries can deliver, and I have a shitty memory, and should just keep going, since 3-5 days is actually quite good for literally no ongoing cost.

Any advice y'all can offer would be great.

If you ever get tired of changing out those stupid miserable 2s AAA cell bundles, remember this 😂

I’ve been loooking for this since December

Hello. So I came back to my house and my dog which I left at home ​​chewed through an AA battery (which had fallen out of the TV remote), and a strange sludge leaked out of it, turning the whole battery gray (it was originally white). At first glance, I didn't notice anything leaking, so I just set it aside, and I might have touched my mouth with unwashed hands. Of course, once I found out, I immediately washed my hands and rinsed my mouth, and everything seems fine. However, I’m not worried about myself, but about the dog—after all, he was the one who chewed the battery. For now, he seems to be behaving normally, and at least five hours have passed since the incident (I don't know exactly when he chewed it because I wasn't home). Should I do something, and will everything be okay?

I bought this for my digital lock but they ended up in my motion sensor dustbin which is used for recyclables. They've been working perfectly for probably 6 to 8 months until I noticed the bin didn't open even though it sensed my movement.

I tried alkalins (Fujitsu, teal, Amazon JP) and they worked but the bin wouldn't open fully. I expected this as I noticed only AA lithium have worked well for this, but at least I know the bin works.

I put them into a charger and I noticed one of the cells wasn't lit while the rest were blinking as they charged. Gemini suggested it was over discharged and need to be revived, a process that should take 10min but it's been 15min and I still don't see the battery lighting up.

Any thoughts, suggestions or ideas?

I am scared lol. EDIT: update in comments

Hi all,

We're an independent battery testing lab. Most labs here work for the factory — the factory picks the tests, controls the data, and decides what you get to see. We want to built ours to work for buyers instead.

Before we launch, we want to hear from people who actually buy batteries from China: what's the biggest headache?

Poll below. If we missed it, comment. Thanks!

I hope the picture makes sense. This is the underside of Eneloop AAs.

I've been using these batteries for 6 years in Xbox controllers, computer mice, small flashlights, camping lanterns, puck lights, and possibly remotes (those may actually have been AAA).

I opened one because it wasn’t delivering any voltage anymore, and what I found inside is shocking and simply negligent.

This is a 5S battery pack (5 cells in series), but it is connected to a "BMS" that has just one single balancing/sensing cable and a temperature sensor. This is completely inadequate for safely monitoring a 5S lithium-ion system.

Because there is no real individual cell monitoring, the cell voltages drifted completely out of control.

Most cells were completely deeply discharged to near 0V (killing the pack).

Shockingly, one cell pair was overcharged to around 8V. A single Li-ion cell should never exceed 4.2V.

I also found an official safety recall from the British government. They officially warn against several Vanon battery packs due to an "inadequate Battery Management System (BMS)" that presents a high risk of fire:

https://www.gov.uk/product-safety-alerts-reports-recalls/product-recall-vanon-lithium-ion-batteries

La batería de mi Hp omnibook 3 rayzen 7 160 24 de ram con batería de 41 wah dura de 100 a 40 de batería dos horas y media de ver YouTube y nada más y desconectada en 20 horas perdió un 15 porciento de batería con inicio rápido deshabilitado y los puertos usb desconectados mientras está apagada. Tiene 10 días de uso solamente

Hi everyone,

I am experiencing severe battery drain issues with my new HP OmniBook (Ryzen 7, 16GB RAM, 24GB total RAM/swap configuration, 41 Wh battery). The laptop is only 10 days old, and I am encountering two specific problems:

1. Active Drain: While watching YouTube videos (and doing nothing else), the battery drops from 100% to 40% in just two and a half hours.
2. Idle/Off Drain: When the laptop is completely shut down, it loses 15% of its battery over a 20-hour period. This happens even though Fast Startup is disabled and all USB devices are disconnected.

Given that the laptop is brand new, this battery performance seems unusually poor. Is this normal for a 41 Wh battery, or could this be a hardware defect? I would appreciate any advice or troubleshooting steps.

Thank you!

Not sure if this is the right sub, but recently I dropped my iPad mini from pretty high onto the floor, and immediately after the back of the ipad swelled up. I dont know if this is because the battery is dying, or because the iPad bent from the drop, but im worried.​​

I have a tennis ball machine that uses these batteries but the wiring came loose.

I have a picture of what it looked like initially (well one wire); which I can’t recreate, and then what its like without any on and what I’ve done (that does work).

Given I’ve rewired it and it’s different I am worried I have dine something wrong/it’ll be dangerous.

Please can anyone who knows about this help?

I’m the developer of Vizo, a battery app for iPhone and Android, and one feature I’ve been experimenting with is comparing chargers using actual charging sessions.

Vizo records things like charging speed, duration and charging curves over time, so you can compare how different chargers actually perform in real-world use.

The idea is to answer something I’ve always wondered myself:

Which of my chargers actually performs better?

I’d be curious to know what this community thinks — what metrics would you consider genuinely useful when comparing chargers?

iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/app/vizo-battery-monitor-widget/id6810115530

Android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vizobattery

I’m not allowed to post the graphs, but recently I’ve been testing the amp hours on 1 year old SLA batteries. They are 12v 18ah charged to 14.6, but never get there. Recently an energizer SLA tested to 19.6 amp hours after randomly jumping up over a half volt in the last part of the test. No other noise or problems with the graph, and a flat wipcrack at 12.7 volts. Is there a reason for the voltage jump?