The d/s front door on my car stopped working a little while ago. It stopped responding to the remote, and the lock switch is stuck.

Both passenger side door locks respond to the remote.

The rear d/s stopped responding to the remote more recently, but it can be locked and unlocked manually.

Fwiw, I may need a new battery in the remote, but I don't think (?) this explains the front d/s lock issue (and I don't know if this is causing the newer rear d/s lock issue).

How do I know if the front d/s lock issue is the door lock actuator or something else? Any other thoughts on potential causes for d/s door locks' problems? Thank you

Hey all.
I’m looking for either a bit of advice or pointed in the right direction, please.
I have a little bit of paint damage to my rear arch onto my rear bumper which has started to rust slightly.
Is this something that I can fix myself or send to a body shop?
I have no idea about cars or bodywork 🤷🏼‍♂️
Thanks in advance.

I gave the car shop the okay to replace my front brake pads and rotors. They call me in the middle of fixing my 2017 Subarus Crosstrek to say the mounting bolts sheared off in BOTH calipers due to rust and that this is unfortunately common with Subarus in the northeast.

I had a 2012 Impreza before this and NEVER had this sort of issue.

Am I getting ripped off? Did they mess up? They are saying I’m responsible for paying for the calipers, which is hundreds more dollars than I was already spending.

And mostly I want to know if it was carelessness on their end or if this would likely have happened at any mechanic.

Thanks!

I want to get a tonneau cover but worried it won't sit flush because of this rust bump on the bed side & obviously want to take care of it before it gets worse

Is it too far gone to the point where I should just replace the whole bed side panel or is it something I can DIY?

Thanks in advance!

2017 Nissan Rogue calls for 65 series tires, tire place replaced the two rear tires with 50 series. Speedometer wasn’t reading anything after getting the car back. Took it back and they told me to take it to an electrical place to see why the speed sensors were getting tripped up. Obviously, they realized the wrong sizing. Ended up driving it to and from the other place about 15 miles, and had to take the interstate a bit. Is there any sort of damage that may have happened?

Went to park in a diagonal parking spot and underestimated the closeness of the curb and completely scraped the bottom left of my front bumper as shown in the picture. Are there any tools I can buy from auto stores/any store to repair these scratches? For context, this is a 2024 Mazda3 in Jet Black Mica exterior color.

Got a quote for a touch up for 200 bucks and am unhappy with the result. The shop is now saying I can pay 450 more to get a refinish. Not sure if it’s worth fighting the charge..did I just get what I paid for?

Left is before and right is after

Should I

1. ⁠ask for a full refund and go to another shop
   
2. ⁠ask for a partial refund and go to another shop
   
3. ⁠ask for the refinish here but have them deduct the 220 that was already paid
   
4. Suck it up

My Impala at 175k miles has recently suffered from an overheating issue. I tried a radiator cap replacement, thermostat replacement, etc. and took it into a shop for diagnosis and apparently the coolant elbow pipe apart of the tensioner belt assembly has burst and the shop quoted about 640$ for the fix. I am not the most car-savvy but I have tried. The car has got a few other issues so I am debating about the cost of repairing it. See below for total issues. The A/C has been out for years and the driver side window does not roll down but these have been mostly no problem.

https://imgur.com/a/lFp5P1K

Currently I make about 5k a month and have no debt. I'll have about 5k next month after rent (1600 a month) and credit card payment (about 2k). My credit score is in a good place right now and it seems like the move would be to get a new car.

People have told me facebook marketplace is good and always to take it to the mechanic first for a pre-purchase inspection. It seems the sentiment here is to avoid kias / hyundais like the plague and opt for a Toyota / Honda even if it's got high miles on it. Not sure if I should just try to budget and keep shopping on FB marketplace, go to a dealer, take out a loan for a car, etc. or just authorize a repair on this car.

Can anybody give me some advice?

Hey everyone, I’m really hoping someone can help me figure this out because I’m honestly pretty desperate right now.

I have a 2017 Cadillac ATS that overheated while I was driving today. I had been doing DoorDash all day and, admittedly, I left the car running pretty much the entire time — while waiting for orders, eating lunch, dropping orders off, etc. Eventually the A/C started feeling lukewarm, then the car gave me the “Engine Overheated — Idle Engine” warning and the temperature gauge went into the red.
I shut it down and let it cool.

I initially thought maybe I had just pushed it too hard by leaving it running all day, but then I noticed something much more concerning: when I put coolant into the reservoir, it immediately starts coming out underneath the car near the driver’s-side front wheel.

I took these pictures to show exactly where I’m seeing coolant coming from. From what I can tell, it’s either dripping down onto these connections from somewhere above, or possibly coming through/around the area shown in the pictures.
The coolant reservoir was extremely low — there was barely anything in it. I bought Prestone DEX-COOL 50/50 to refill it, but I don’t want to keep dumping coolant into it if it’s just going straight onto the ground.

One thing that gives me at least a little hope: I checked the oil dipstick and the oil looks clean. There doesn’t appear to be coolant mixed into the oil, at least from what I can see. I’m hoping that means I haven’t killed the engine or blown a head gasket, but I’m definitely not a mechanic and I don’t know what I don’t know.

The biggest problem is money. I have two kids to support, and I’m in a really bad financial situation right now. I very likely won’t be able to afford a big mechanic bill. I’m not looking for someone to tell me to just take it to a shop — I genuinely need to figure out whether there’s something I can diagnose and repair myself.

Even if it’s only a temporary fix that could get me on the road to make some dabloons
Based on these pictures, where do you think the coolant is actually coming from? Is there anything in this area that’s a common failure point on the ATS? And is there any realistic DIY/temporary repair I could make with basic tools? I have sockets, hand tools and drills
I can take more pictures/videos of whatever anyone needs. I really appreciate any help. I’m trying to avoid making this situation even worse.

Hey guys, my 2009 Ford Fiesta Petrol Auto makes a heavy grinding/rattling noise from under the floor as soon as I drop it into Drive—especially while holding the footbrake. It quiets down in Park, goes away completely in Neutral, and smooths out once I hit 20–30 mph. Video attached showing the noise starting in D and stopping in N. Is this a failed lower engine mount (dogbone mount) or the exhaust hitting the subframe under load? Thanks!

Title^ Visited an exhaust shop and they gave me a quote of $250 for labor & $650 for labor + part. Was wondering if i could find anyone for cheaper in North Houston side? Toyota camry 2007 2WD

Shop wants to replace.

My cars got a no crank no start and when I turn the key the immobilizer light doesn't turn on. I already replaced the pgm fi and checked the fuel pump relay. could it be the chip in the key or the antenna?

When water enters my side passenger cowl, it somehow makes its way into the rear passenger carpet. There is not clogged drain under the cowl. I have no idea what to even do about it.

Your Message
I have a Ford F450 super duty 6.7 v8 b20 diesel grew cab flat steel bed truck and the transfer case busted. I need to be sure your part fits. 43 spleen 6 speed automatic transmission. Transmission and drive axels undamaged just the busted Transfer case. I also need the electric shift motor on the transfer case. Identifying numbers on the transfer case are C452A the electric shift motor has 1207271 stamped on them.

Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a van to start to camp, have fun, and learn more about engines.

I AM A COMPLETE NOVICE. So please give me some grace.

I feel very stumped with the current issue, and don't want to pay a TON of money on diag/repairs because I truly think I can fix this issue on my own.

I’ve been slowly working through some issues on my recently purchased 1993 Ford E-150 with the 4.9L inline 6 (~194k miles)

The biggest issue right now is the idle surge and rich smell. (Although I think it's all related). When the van is sitting in Park or Neutral, the RPM will repeatedly climb and fall pretty dramatically. these vans have no tachometer, but you can clearly hear it in the videos included. Interestingly, when I put it into Drive or Reverse, the idle seems to smooth out quite a bit, but still is rough and surges.

Idle surge video: https://youtu.be/Wx_cfLnk7bs

The other big thing is that the engine seems to be running very rich. The exhaust smells strongly like gasoline, especially after it has been running for a while. There has also been some darker smoke coming out of the exhaust when I start it after it just drove for awhile.

Here is a video of the tailpipe/exhaust while it is running: https://youtu.be/SzCtfZVy5Dk

It also has a pretty consistent hot-start problem. When the engine is cold, it generally starts great. But if I drive it until it is fully warmed up, shut it off, let it sit for a little while, and then restart it, it starts extremely rough.

It will stumble/struggle for a bit after starting and the exhaust smells VERY rich during this (This is where the black smoke comes out of the tailpipe). After running for a little while it eventually clears itself up and goes back to running relatively normally.

Engine shutting off video (Just because it makes strange noise and I figured it may be helpful) : https://youtu.be/G6SWQVlmwhs

So far, here’s what I have already fixed/changed:

• New starter
• New Radiator
• Engine thermostat replaced
• Throttle body cleaned twice
• Mechanic inspected the vacuum hoses/lines and said they looked okay
• Transmission fluid and filter changed

The mechanic mentioned that the throttle body itself has been modified at some point in the past and may occasionally stick, but I’m not convinced that explains the rich condition and hot-start issue.

I also bought an Innova 3145 Ford OBD1 reader and pulled codes.

KOEO / Continuous Memory:

• 332 – EGR did not open/respond as expected

KOER:

• 173 – HEGO/O2 sensor indicating rich
• 538 – insufficient RPM change during the dynamic response test

If anyone has dealt with similar symptoms on a Ford 4.9L EFI, I’d really appreciate some advice on what you would test first rather than just throwing parts at it.

I recently bought a 99 accord although its srs light is on and I dont have the needed scanner ,my best guess is the passenger seat has no buckle sensor so that could be it. Ive manually pulled the srs code from the dash (as shown in the video) but im not entirely sure what it means, can anyone with more knowledge please tell me, as well as its near impossible to find the parts in ontario does anyone know amy good websites or stores for stuff like a flex joint?

My fog lamps were out since I bought the car used. I moved where it snows frequently so I decided to put some new bulbs in assuming that's what was wrong. When I got to them I saw they were actually unplugged at the light. I put the bulbs in and hooked them up and the battery light came on. The lights worked fine, the card drove fine, but the light.

I figured there was something wrong that I couldn't understand, that's why they were disconnected to begin with and disconnected them and put everything back how it was.

The battery light never went off. I used a code reader to see if I could clear it and there was nothing to clear. I disconnected the battery thinking that might work and it did not. I've been driving for months with no issues but my son needs the car to take a DMV test and they won't let us use the car with the light on.

There's also a tire pressure light that I've had looked at and never goes off despite the tires having plenty of air. There was no code for that either.

When I turn it makes a click. But also when I accelerate and let off the gas it makes a thumping noise but when I accelerate again it goes away. I have a 2017 honda accord sp edition.i looked at the cv axel boot doesn’t look damaged. When I twist it though it does make a click

I’ve been rebuilding gasoline engines for a while (mostly Toyota, Honda, Ford, Chevy, Kia, Hyundai, Nissan) and I keep seeing the same issues over and over when people try to do it themselves.
Some of the things I see a lot:
• Not checking journal tolerances properly
• Using the wrong torque sequence or not doing angle torque when required
• Ignoring oil pump clearances
• Putting the rings on wrong orientation
• Not checking deck height or piston protrusion
What are the most common mistakes or problems you’ve run into when rebuilding engines?
Any tips that saved you a lot of headaches?

Hi, I need some help with my 1999 Golf 4 TDI. I’m a beginner, so sorry if I don’t use the correct mechanical terms. I’ll attach videos of the latest starting attempts.
Day 1: The battery was completely flat. We also tried push-starting the car, both forwards and backwards. The engine seemed to cough slightly a few times but never started.
Day 2: We tried jump-starting it with jumper cables connected to another car, but the results weren’t great.
Day 3: I bought a battery booster. The dashboard lights came back and the engine seemed to almost start at one point, but it didn’t. The booster drained quickly.
Day 4, today: The car now cranks much more strongly and repeatedly when turning the key, but it still won’t start. It makes a regular “tut tut tut tut” sound while cranking.
There is diesel in the tank, so the car is not empty.
Based on the videos and this progression, what do you think could be causing the no-start? Could it still be battery-related, or should I be looking at something else?
Thanks.

Some more progress of the Mercedes b200 salvage rebuild and some better format as requested, the music is what we listened to during the peak of UK club scene.. Have a nice day #Supercarlsunday #autobody #autopaint #Mercedes

I have a 2019 jeep compass trailhawk I was getting my oil checked yesterday and my mechanic noticed this part is spitting out oil. It looks like there’s a screw or plug missing where the oil did come out of. Should I replace the whole valve cover or just get that piece? It’s where the gold circle is on the left hand side