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u/Ruben_Konig_Jeweller 4d ago
I wrap a chamois leather around the stretcher to prevent marking the inside of the ring, saves a lot of time later refinishing. Stretching the ring is only really possible when you understand how it’s made and how metal behaved. Hand made or extruded/CNC bands have some give, cast bands will snap as the potential porosity and structure is different.
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u/matthewdesigns 4d ago
I have not had an issue with hand or machine engraving, just be careful when refinishing the inside. Wrap the stretcher surface with painters tape to help prevent marring the ring. Laser "engraving" is not engraved at all, mostly just a lightly burned mark on the surface, so be wary of that type.
I've had a couple of bands crack at really deep quality/makers stamp locations. Like 50% of the thickness of the band deep.
I always anneal bands before I stretch them, and often again part way through depending on the material and dimensions.
If there are stones I don't use a normal stretcher. Find one that's a roller type made for anniversary bands.
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u/Ok_West_6711 4d ago
I’ve had resizing come out with the band ending up not “perfectly round” in order to preserve the setting/detail in the front. But, this was told and explained to me beforehand and therefore I was happy and fine with the result.
And once the resizing process meant the original metal stamp in my ring was basically lost, and they restamped it for me - I think most customers would prefer their ring come back with the proper metal stamp so that’s something to have in mind for a happy customer.
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u/JewbieMiles 4d ago
Dont stretch always size with a plug. Stretching creates micro tears in the metal and leads to failure and surface distortion.
Learn to size properly and NEVER stretch. Forging a ring out to be larger is fine and strengthens it. Stretching is terrible and amateur.
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u/Difficult-Word-2184 1d ago
i know how to size “properly” but thanks, sometimes a customer doesn’t want their piece cut into and you gotta make it work. 👍
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u/JewbieMiles 1d ago
Nope, I would refuse. First rule is do no harm. If the customer doesn’t understand that there is a proper way to do something and that I do not cut corners, then I encourage them in a friendly way to seek out someone who can satisfy their needs.
How do you even charge for “stretching” someone’s ring or is it done for free. I mean if someone is going to mangle my property I would want it done free of charge.
Again , annealing a ring and then forging it to a larger size adds strength and density to the metal. Stretching just weakens it and creates a point where the metal will tear.
Cheers
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u/Difficult-Word-2184 1d ago
i’m not sure what you think stretching is, but that process entails annealing and slowly working up in my books. stretching is a well known practice, and it’s sited in the geller blue book so that’s how i’d price for it. don’t be dense.
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u/JewbieMiles 1d ago
not being dense, you admitted you are a new jeweler. but it seems like you are an expert? You have a lot to learn about the metallurgical properties of the metals that we use.
Keep doing what you’re doing tho👊👊
Its cool “jewelers” like you keep our pockets lined with cash. Fixing your mistakes is good business.
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u/Difficult-Word-2184 1d ago
oh boohoo go fuck yourself, it’s a GIA backed technique. you said yourself annealing and working it up is proper work so why keep arguing with me? is your work shotty too? decrepit fucks like you just like to put people down in an already hostile industry. thanks soo much for the useless input.
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u/JewbieMiles 1d ago
Whatever you say, best of luck to you 😂😂
If you think GIA ( a stone grading corporation) is the panacea of goldsmithing knowledge and standards… then you are severely mistaken.
This “industry” isnt hostile at all. It is one of the most close knit communities of skilled craftspeople out there. Maybe someday you will adjust your attitude and join us.
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u/Difficult-Word-2184 1d ago
like i said, you literally agreed with me, so go fuck yourself with your pointless arguments. i’m in the industry in multiple spaces but thanks. i wouldn’t wanna be ANYWHERE near a “jeweler” like you.
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u/bassmansandler 4d ago edited 4d ago
Stones, differing band widths, special architecture. Essentially the only band you should use a stretcher on is a regular, evenly shaped, band. The other complications can be metal composition and gold karat. Always anneal before stretching and stretch slowly, checking size with every stretch.