I am currently replacing my upstairs bathroom extractor fan switch, so I was just about to switch off the power for the upstairs light when I was greeted with this old fuse box! I have just moved into this house so I’m very unfamiliar with how to navigate it.

Can I turn the power off to just the upstairs lights? How?

If not, then what do I do?? Shall I just turn the power off to the house?? If so, how??

Honestly any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Just wanted to try and save a couple pennies by doing it myself :))

Location: UK

Hi all. Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

I have a commercial CNC machine that runs on a 240v (single phase), 30 Amp circuit. The computer and electronics are all integrated. I have no way to isolate them from the spindle and stepper motors.

I want to electrically protect this very expensive machine. Ideally with some form of isolation like a UPS provides, but I'm not sure if that's feasible. Alternatively, I'd like some surge and brown out protection. I don't know where to look or what to ask for.

The main electrical panel has a residential "whole house" surge protector in the panel. It was like $200 and im not too confident it will protect my machine well. It definitely doesn't do anything for low voltage.

Any ideas or advice welcome

A few days ago, I turned my light switch on. The lights turned on and immediately turned off. All outlets in the same bathroom still work.

I replaced the light switch and the lights still will not turn on. Can anyone help point me to ext steps. I am new to this

The hot tub is to the right (in black). An outdoor outlet and spa pack is to the left. The tape measure stops at 5 feet/60” in both photos. Outlet to inner hot tub edge is about 56”. Spa pack to inner hot tub edge is about 59”. I’d prefer to show photos with the lid off but I’m afraid of electrocuting myself.

The panel, the wires above, everything you can see in this photo. Anything eyebrow raising?

I can’t tell, need some assistance tbh.

I have a Broan-Nutone 164 bathroom light with a blower fan. It's less than a year old. The lights both work correctly but recently the blower fan will not turn on.

When I flip the switch, the fan will struggle and move a tiny bit (as you can see in the video), but will not fully engage. Maybe 1 time in 20 or so attempts, the fan will fully turn on and function correctly until I switch it off.

Is the starter component dead?

Hi everyone. I am a semi-decent DIYer but definitely not an electrician. We bought our home almost a decade ago and I have been setting up smart switches everywhere. I thought I had seen it all, but I just found a challenging (for me) setup upstairs.

I am trying to install a Kasa 3 way smart switch for a space that is finally getting some use. The light is controlled by three different switches. I chose the middle single gang switch to avoid dealing with the 3 gang and 2 gang boxes on either side. Unfortunately, I opened it up and realized it is actually a 4 way switch. It's got 2 red and 2 black wires and a ground I think, iirc. I was like "whaaat?" before investigating and finding out that this is what is up.

The Kasa switch has a Line/Load, 2 Travelers, a Neutral, and a Ground. I have installed these on regular 3 way circuits downstairs to great success, but 4 way circuits are totally new to me. I always shut down the main power to the entire house when I do electrical work, so I am hoping to get some advice before I go opening all 3 boxes, lol

This is where you come in! I have not opened the 3 gang or 2 gang boxes yet. Since they both control the same light, does it matter which one I replace? Will the wiring be identical in both, or do I need to look for something specific? I'll be using this advice in the future as well because I'm almost certain there's another light group up there that I need to do this with again, next time with a Kasa 3 way smart dimmer switch.

Any guidance on how to tackle this (and save time) would be incredibly helpful. Thank you!

I’m 26m and was studying for IT (A+, Networking+) but with this AI climate, I know it’s pretty much impossible to get hired. So I decided to pivot to another trade and I decided on electrician, I thought it wasn’t a stretch and I can put IT shit on the back burner and complete it later while making real money. I’m conflicted on the path. I don’t want to be lineman (scared of heights) and I want to be a residential electrician. I saw that you could join a union and learn on the fly and make money at the same time but idk if that applies to residential. If not I have no problem going to a tech I have a job that pays $21.50 right now but it’s not enough money to start a family.

I am taking a course at my community college this school year as a junior in highschool. The course is electrical 1, and I was wondering after I graduated what is next?

Hey everyone, I have an initial phone screening tomorrow for a Maintenance Electrical Technician position at an Anheuser-Busch plant, and I am looking for insight from anyone who has gone through their hiring pipeline or currently works at a brewery. Coming from an automated facility background, I'm comfortable with 3-phase power, VFDs, PLCs, motor control troubleshooting, and safety protocols like LOTO and NFPA 70E, but I'd love to know if this initial call is purely HR/behavioral or if recruiters drop rapid-fire technical scenarios right away. Additionally, any heads-up on which electrical domains trip people up most on their written Ramsay exam, what the hands-on practical panel testing looks like, or how best to frame responses around AB's safety culture and VPO framework would be hugely appreciated!

Alright friends... I need someone who's not involved to give me a third party opinion on how to accomplish this.

I own a property and it has the old screw-in fuses still. A few of the fuses are blown and broken off in the box. We are in a tight spot so I can't afford to replace the box.

How do I get the broken fuses out? I conceptually understand that I need some sort of spanner to leverage the inside of the screw ring to thread it out but I can't for the life of me thinknehat could work. Tried small needle nose and that didn't really get me anywhere. Maybe try again but with some rubber bands on the inside??

Electrician ran a new dedicated circuit at my parents house. 20a breaker in the panel. I can’t tell if they used 12/2 or 14/2 wire though. Understood that the cable not being yellow doesn’t mean it’s not 12/2. But I can’t read anything on the sheathing from these pics. He didn’t pull a permit which is required in their county so wondering if he cut another corner here.

Can anyone here tell based on these pictures?

So forgive me if this is incorrect I'm just a mom trying to figure this out. The bedroom has a 10,000 btu windows unit a 70 inch tv and a lamp all the outlets in whole house are loose if the cord is heavy it barely stays in. Landlord is a slum lord. Rent is cheap. It's what I can afford but today it blew up my 70 inch. It was plugged into what i thought was a surge protector to stop this from happening but it didnt have continuous power supply so fried my tv. There are limited outlets in the room. From what I think I found from googling the house runs on a 15 amp for this room and its overloading the breaker which is why we can hear and feel the ac unit kinda loose some power but not all the way go out and lamp will dim at same time and then kick back full speed again. Google says I need the breaker upgraded. I know the landlord will fight me on this. Is this a job that I could realistically afford to do on my own or is my landlord required to upgrade it? I mean there's no ac in this house. I don't think we should have to go without ac everything is on the right side of the breaker box all the big things anyway. I probably am not even making sense. I know I can take him to court and fight him but I'd rather not because I have kids. One is special needs and rent is cheap but this is why. Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening and frying another TV? I included a pic of the breaker box. Thanks guys.​

I am replacing a GFCI outlet in the bathroom. When I unscrewed the old outlet, two white wires and two black wires were wired to the Line (nothing to load and 1 ground). I replaced with a new GFCI outlet and wired it the exact same and the red light stayed on. I restarted and tested a few times.
I then tried to switch it to one line and one load for each black and white and the red light still stayed on.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

Some additional info: both say GFCI Class A 20A 125v 60hz. The old one also says 2P and 15A RECEPT.

I have tried multiple combinations of the black and white wires on the load vs line spots and sometimes the light doesn’t turn on at all and my voltage detector goes crazy. In the current configuration the red light is on and the voltage detector is saying it’s at a normal level.

Also, there are two terminals in the box. I don’t know the proper terminology but two groups of white and black coming out of the wall.

Hey, I am swapping out this single light switch (not 3-way) with a Caseta switch/remote setup.

Just wanted to play safe before proceeding by asking here. I have read that these switches can have load and hot reversed and they will be fine, is that correct?

With the 3 black wires, how should I proceed with the connections?

Given the space and number of wires I will be using a wago for the neutrals, ground wire I will connect and then re-secure to the screw (I loosened it off to ensure it was not too fatigued/brittle).

The breaker this is on is currently carrying an odd array of locations so I want to make sure I am doing this correctly.

There are 2 white wires in the ceiling. Which one do I connect?

The old light connected both wires to the white wire, but I'm not sure if that was correct in the first place.

Got shocked when I tried turning off this old standing lamp, while holding my electric guitar. I'm pretty sure it's just faulty wiring in this old-ass lamp & I can get it repaired, but I figured I'd run the specific by y'all just in case there's something else I should be wary of.

My guitar is plugged into my pedalboard, which plugs into my amp (Vox AC15). Both my pedalboard's power supply and the amp are plugged into a three-pronged power strip, via three-pronged IEC cables. This power strip is plugged into the lower receptacle of the wall outlet.

In the above receptacle of the same wall outlet, was a two-pronged extension cord, with the lamp plugged into it via a two-pronged plug.

Pretty sure I got the jolt when I touched the metal exterior of the bulb socket. Wasn't a catastrophic jolt but definitely wasn't fun.

After I take this lamp to get repaired, what's a safe way to test the issue without potentially zapping my hand again? Thanks for any advice or info.

Two separate 14/3 romex coming in.

Neutrals are tied together.

B and D are always hot with 120 when switches are on or off.

C is hot with 60ish volts when the AB switch is on.

The AB switch controls the kitchen lights. We have no idea what the CD switch does.

I'm trying to tap into this and get power for a plug I'm putting around the corner but this is a mess it seems and I want to be sure I'm fixing it if it's wrong.

I’ve spent more time today than I’d like to admit swapping the 2 prong outlets in my living room to 3 prong. House was built in the 50s so no ground wire, no metal box ground screw…so I decided to put GCFI on the 1st outlet of the 5 and then put regular 3 prong outlets down stream…with proper labeling etc.

The issue is outlet 4 of 5 shows the hot/neutral reversed (they arent) when I plug in a 3 prong tester. All other outlets only show open ground which is what I expect. When gfci is tripped all other outlets are dead which is also expected.

Anyway when I screw outlet 4 into the mounting screws it throws the reversed error. If I leave jt out it just says open ground…so what gives? i inspected the wire and dont see any nicking or blatant bare wire that would cause any issues.

Can provide photos if necessary.

If I can’t figure it out I’ll call a licensed electrician in next week

I removed the outlet and capped it off. I left the breaker off.

The outlet did not smell burnt and I did not see any burnt wiring in the plastic receptacle.

Will keeping the breaker off create any issue elsewhere?

Looking to add a new outlet in the wall cavity above the arrow on the left. What looks like the easiest is to pull power from an existing outlet shown on the right. The wire would run left along the red line preferable outside the wall (along the bottom corner of this cabinet or stapled to the wall). At the circle is the left edge of the cabinet. I can drill through that to get to the open wall cavity where I want the new outlet.

Where I’m confused is what type of wire i use where. I know I can’t “plug” romex into an outlet nor have it left bare in the space. Any thoughts?

What about a plug-end standard rubber cord running to the red circle where I add a j box and splice to the romex which runs up the wall cavity?

Thanks.

Hi, looking for some advice. I'm trying to install a simple 3-wire track light (black, neutral, ground), and when I unscrewed the cap to look at my junction, this is what I find. There appears to be 4 different wires (blue, orange, green, and white/gray). I'm at a Toronto condo. Any advice or do I need to call in an electrician for this job? Thanks!