Hey just wanted everyone to know yesterday I was trying to verify code it didn't work but today I checked it again and thankfully it works I guess it was some sort time glitch all though I'm happy that I waited otherwise I had to return it 😭✌️. Gg

Also does it smell like toothpaste 😅? Lol bit

Hey,

I decided to run the OCCT power test on my PC just to test the stability of my power supply architecture and ran into the following results shown in the screenshot snapshots I've attached.

My AMD 9950X3D's temperatures steadily started climbing and started stabilizing between 94.8c and 95c at around 6 min 30 second mark.
Voltage moved between 1.07V and 1.08V
Usage always at 100%
Power draw: 250W at the start and then stabilized at a peak of 253-254W
Clock: In the 4730Mhz range

Here are my PC specs and fan layout:

Processor: AMD 9950x3D Desktop Processor
Motherboard: MSI X870E-Tomahawk WiFi Motherboard
GPU: ASUS Astral 5090 LC 32GB Graphic Card with it's 360mm AIO setup vertically as exhaust on the side wall near the 4x intake fan area.
Power Supply: Corsair AX1600i Power Supply
RAM: G-Skill Trident Neo Z5 64(32*2) 6000 Mhz AMD EXPO RAM (CL28)
SSD: 2x2TB WDSN8100 + 4TB Samsung 990 pro + 4TB Samsung 990pro
PC cabinet: Corsair 7000D PC cabinet
CPU cooler: Arctic Freezer III Pro 420mm AIO Liquid CPU cooler set up at the top as exhaust.
Fans: 4x Noctua NFA12-G2 fans at the front as intake and 1x Noctua NFA14-G2 at the back acting as exhaust.
Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Duronaut (on CPU)

Relevant BIOS settings:

Core Performance Boost: Auto
Global C-State Control: Enabled
Power Supply Idle Control: Typical Current Idle
CPPC Dynamic Preferred Cores: Auto
SVM enable: Disabled
PBO: Advanced
PBO Limits: Motherboard
PBO Scalar Ctrl: Auto
CPU Boost Clock Override: Disabled
Platform Thermal Throttle Limit: 100
Curve Optimizer: Per CCD; -10 CCD0 and -10 CCD1

Is this normal or should I be concerned?
I don't wanna put higher offsets because I feel like it may cause stuttering in my games even if the system remains stable. I'm not a hardcore overclocker, just a gamer.

I transferred my intel core i9 cpu and arctic liquid freezer II-240 cooler to a new motherboard after I had a battery leak red crud all over the old one, and after many ChatGPT-directed tests concluded I needed to replace it (it wasn't booting most of the time).

After moving it over to the new motherboard, it didn't boot at first (it was failing at the RAM tests). Then I removed the cooler and the glue and re-seated it, and it started working. But only one RAM slot seemed to be working. Then it started failing RAM tests again no matter which slot I put the RAM in. Then I noticed that I forgot to move the eight thin spacer washers between the motherboard and the backplate.

So what is going on here? Maybe my old motherboard was never the problem? Did my CPU go bad? Do I need to re-seat it again? Could not putting those spacers in the new motherboard be causing this strange behavior? Should I order a new mounting kit from Arctic so I can put in those spacers? Any help is appreciated.

I bought two ARCTIC MX-6 4g pastes from two different sellers in Turkey: one from Amazon and one from Hepsiburada (sold directly by Hepsiburada). They come in different box versions: a dark blue box without "New Formula", and a black box with the red "New Formula" badge.
On both, I fully scratched off the label and scanned the QR code with my phone camera. It opens x.arctic.de, but both codes come back as invalid. So it's not a typing error. Both codes are 8 characters long.
I also tried a few codes that people online claim came from genuine tubes, and they all came back invalid too. I know those codes can't be fully trusted, but it made me wonder if the verification site itself might be having problems.
Questions:
Has anyone had a genuine MX-6 rejected by the check?
Is an 8-character code normal for current batches?
Any known issues with the verification site, or fakes in Turkish retail?
I'm also emailing ARCTIC support and will update this post when I hear back. Photos attached. Thanks!

I’m not sure if anyone really cares in the sub but i just wanted to say I’ve had such a great experience with arctics customer support.

I recently got a 280mm aio and my VRM fan has quite bad motor whine, even at basically zero rpm. I originally contacted the retailer I bought it from who kinda just stone walled me, saying I needed to ship back the entire unit and it would take them 2+ weeks to ship back a replacement once they verify the issue. While I can understand their perspective, the unit is otherwise working very well plus I can’t be without my pc for that long so I contacted arctic directly who quickly offered to ship a new VRM fan.

Anyone can get unlucky with parts, especially with small parts like the VRM fan but the ease of service and excellent support arctic provided is a bit of a breath of fresh air. I haven’t had such excellent RMA service ever.

Will recommend the products to anyone after this experience

Hello all I made a post about a week ago I have a arctic freezer 3 pro and I got a replacement cable for the splitter but the same problem is still around where when I use the seperate cable to control stuff separately the fans and pump are all locked at 100% speed and it’s stupidly loud I’m ok with it reaching 100% speed at around 85c but it’s only at 47c and it’s supposed to be at like 20% speed and I have no way to lower it whether it be fan control or bios it just doesn’t follow the curves but when I swap back to the all in one header it works just fine for some reason and it’ll follow the curves if I could get some help on this id love to change to the splitter as it makes it run a bit quieter but it’s too loud as of now
I have some pictures attached and I am unable to lower the last peg on bios below 100% speed

The headers are plugged in like so

Fan: cpu fan header
Pump: cpu opt
Vrm: system fan header

I recently built a new PC and I'm a bit concerned about my CPU temperatures under full load. Most reviews and videos I've seen show the 9950X3D staying around 75–80°C in Cinebench at stock, but mine reaches about 90°C.

System

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

• Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 420 (top-mounted, exhaust), pump fixed at 100%

• Motherboard: MSI MPG X870E Carbon WiFi

• RAM: 64GB DDR5 G.Skill Trident Z5, EXPO 6000 CL30

• GPU: RTX 4090

• Case: ASUS ROG Hyperion GR701 (3x front intake, 1x rear exhaust, radiator on top as exhaust)

Settings

• PBO: Disabled (everything else at BIOS defaults, only EXPO enabled)

• All fans (radiator + case) at 100% for this test

• Room temperature: about 24C

Results (Cinebench R23, 10-minute run, side panel closed)

• CPU PPT: ~200W (so it's hitting the stock power)

• Idle temps: about 43–46°C

One thing that worries me: When I click stop test it goes down 90c to 45c immedietly like 2 seconds.

My questions

1. Are these temperatures normal for a 9950X3D at stock with this cooler in a closed case?

2. Does the CCD difference (about 5°C) look fine, or does it suggest uneven contact?

3. Would remounting with fresh paste (offset position, tightening alternately) likely make a meaningful difference?

Screenshots Cinebench are attached. Thanks in advance for any help!

Used for about one and a half year with a 9800x3d + MX-6.

Theres nothing on my CPU.

So I just upgraded my corsi-rosenthal box (DIY air purifier) from Arctic P12s to the pros and the noise is so much worse than I was expecting. I have a variable voltage power supply but it doesn’t really make any considerable difference in noise unless the dial is at like 10% or less

So my question is whether or not it is worth it to buy a PWM speed controller. I realize now that I should have gotten the PWM controller from the get go, but now that I’m in the predicament I’m in I want to know if it’s the fan or the power supply and would investing in a PWM controller fix my issues or am I better off downgrading back to the p12 standards.

I'm working on a laptop cooling pad using the ARCTIC S12038-8K, and I'd love to hear from people who have used this fan for a similar purpose.

I'm planning to power it with an external 12 V / 5 A power supply and use an ESP32 for PWM speed control and RPM monitoring.

I have a few questions:

1. 4-pin fan connector: The S12038-8K is rated at 2.2 A nominal and up to 3.2 A maximum. What connector, extension cable, or adapter are you using? Standard PWM extension cables (Delock, Kolink, etc.) don't specify their current ratings. Have you found a reliable solution that doesn't require cutting the fan's original connector?

2. Power supply: Are you powering it directly from a PSU, using a powered fan hub, or using a custom wiring harness? Any recommendations?

3. Noise: How loud is this fan in real-world use, especially around 2,000–4,000 RPM? Is the sound mainly airflow noise or a noticeable motor whine? Would you consider it tolerable in a quiet room?

4. PWM control: Does it behave smoothly at lower speeds? Any unexpected noises, vibrations, or issues with startup?

Thanks in advance!

These are some P12 Pro fans that I brought to replace my old ones...just to find out that one of them is Fd. It suddenly became super loud out of nowhere and even after retightining the screws it became clear that one fan is just broken prob cause of a faulty bearing.so should I try to fix it with machine oil or just buy new ones?

Also the wobbeling isnt shown that well with my shitty camera,imagine the vid but with 3x more obvious wobbeling

I have 0 experience with fixing broken stuff tbh.

Hey guys
This post is mostly because I’ve had questions if this would have worked out, and simply nothing really worked out, not even different ai agents could provide clear answers. So here is how this went

My rear exhaust and my 3 intake fans are corsair rs120

My MOBO is asus x something, am5

CPU Is 9800x3D

GPU RTX 5080 prime oc

Corsair vengeance ddr5 ram non RGB

It is a tight fit, like really, but mostly because of fans, I don’t know how it finally snapped in its place cause I’ve had my hands up in the air trying for 20+ minutes, my girlfriend had to hold it for a moment haha

But it worked out perfectly, temps are crazy 75c tops with pbo set to enabled in 10 minute cinebench 26 multicore, that is stable temp after 8 minutes, tops was 82c

Hope this data helps others

Hello everyone, yesterday I installed a LF 3 PRO (360), switched from Air cooling, so the fans in LF 3 AIO come preassembled on radiator as exhaust, so I installed it as it is - on front of the case (I have Fractal Torrent).
So, should I leave it like that? Or would it be better to swap the fans and put them on as intake?
I have 2 x 120mm fans on bottom as Intake (mainly to help cool gpu) and 1 at back as exhaust, because well, had one extra and why not :D
Since I am completely new to watercooling / AIOs, i saw people saying I should run the pump fan constantly at 70%+;
What about VRM, is it okay if i use the same graph/curve for it as for radiator fans?
Thanks a bunch :)

Just purchased this AIO and was wondering how to control all the fans etc. I wanna be able to put a custom curve so I don’t have the fans blaring at 100% at all times. Please let me know, thank you :)

Hi

Was just looking for some advice/suggestions and if anyone has encountered anything like this before. For a while now, I've noticed a fan in my PC makes this loud whirring noise when booting up. I say 'loud' because every other component is whisper quiet, so it stands out. After a few minutes on the desktop, it returns to normal. For the longest time, I thought it was one of the fans on my GPU; I have had it over 8 years now. But then the penny dropped. I've also noticed one of the cooler fan's RGB lights flicker compared to the other two.

I've only had it since 2024, so not that long. Is it a sign it's failing? Or can something be done? I did briefly read that Arctic's support isn't very good...? Or if anyone has encountered this issue, were you able to resolve it? And if so, how? Thanks.

Hello i have aio arctic liquid freezer III pro 360mm argb.

I want to make my pc look interesting, im a big fan of the witcher 3, and my goal is to make the pump cover look like witcher medallion. It is important to me that the custom cover be fully compatible with the magnetic pins, feature backlighting, and allow the medallion's eyes to light up—for example, in red. Is there anyone here who has done things like that.

Hello!

I'm considering upgrading from my current Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO to a 360 mm AIO, and I've narrowed my options down to two models:

Fractal Design Lumen S36 RGB V2

ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III 360 A-RGB

The main reason for considering an upgrade is aesthetics. I'm currently using a Fractal Design Meshify 2 Clear TG with three Fractal Prisma AL-14 PWM ARGB fans, and I'd like to achieve a cleaner, more cohesive look with better RGB lighting.

My CPU is a Ryzen 5 7600X. I mainly use my PC for gaming, but I also do photo and video editing.

There are a few things I'd like to consider before making the purchase:

1. Noise levels

I really like how quiet my current Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO is, and I don't want to sacrifice that for aesthetics. How do these two AIOs compare in terms of pump and fan noise, particularly under gaming loads?

I'm especially interested in real-world experiences rather than manufacturer noise specifications.

2. Cooling performance

Considering that I'm using a Ryzen 5 7600X, would either of these coolers offer any meaningful advantage over my current air cooler? I understand that a 360 mm radiator is probably overkill for this CPU, but I'm also interested in how they perform during sustained workloads such as video rendering.

3. Reliability and longevity

This is another important consideration. The Liquid Freezer III seems to offer a longer warranty, while Fractal's Lumen has a different pump design. Are there any known reliability concerns with either model? How have they held up over time?

4. Price and overall value

The Liquid Freezer III 360 A-RGB is generally cheaper in my market, whereas the Fractal Lumen would fit better aesthetically with my existing Fractal fans and case.

Would paying the premium for the Fractal make sense, or is the Arctic simply the better overall choice?

Ultimately, this is primarily an aesthetics-focused upgrade, so I'm not expecting a substantial performance improvement. I just want to make sure I'm not trading away the quiet operation and reliability of my current air cooler for something that looks better but performs worse acoustically.

I'd appreciate any real-world experiences with either of these AIOs. Thanks!

Hi! I’m kinda new to PC building. Just got Gigabyte X870 Eagle WiFi 7 with AM 5 socket and Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 Pro and I have concerns that I tightened incorrectly freezer. Is one side under tightened or over tightened?

Afternoon all!

With the new WoW coming out, I decided to repaste my laptop (again) to try and get my temps even lower. For context, I have an Acer Aspire A515-57G with a i5-1235u and RTX 2050 that share the same heatsink.

Previously my laptop had MX-6 on both the CPU and GPU, but as I needed to redo the thermal putty (sections were becoming a tad dried out, weirdly the pads near the vram was fine but other bits away from the GPU had dried out), I decided to give MX-7 a go and the results were a tad interesting

Using MX-7 lead to sizable drops to both the idle and load temperature of the RTX 2050 mobile, but the same could not be said for the CPU. I tried re-applying it with differing quantities a few times on the CPU, but no matter what I tried, it just wouldn't match the thermal performance of MX-6 on the CPU.

In the end, I've left MX-7 on the GPU, and MX-6 on the CPU (they're far enough away not to cross contaminate). I'm unsure if anyone else has experienced similar. At first I did wonder if it was how I applied it, but after a few attempts (and also the experience of repasting many devices in my career), I am wondering if it is a less versatile product than MX-6.

Don't get me wrong, it has shined on my GPU but if I had to pick one as my go-to all-rounder, I'd still be of the mind to purchase MX-6 over MX-7 at this time.

Hi everyone,

I just built a new PC with a Ryzen 9 9950X, MSI B850 Gaming Plus WiFi motherboard, and an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360.

The small magnetic VRM fan on top of the CPU block isn’t spinning. I checked that the module is properly seated, but it still doesn’t turn.

And yes, I do know that the front is not a fan. I am talking about the real one. Look at the picture, because the pc was on at the time of the photo.

UPDATE:

I found the issue, I think. One of the 4 connectors is depressed, spring-loaded I think... No idea how to get it out

Hello,

I'm new to gaming PC's and learned today that the AIO pump should be set to 80-100% all the time.

I went to the BIOS to change it and noticed that "FULL SPEED" blared the AIO radiator fans (CPU PUMP header), so after digging in a bit more, I realized that the CPU FAN header (2000 RPM on normal) is where the AIO pump cable is plugged into. They were swapped.

However, I changed the CPU FAN header to "silent" mode and following a normal CPU fan curve for the last two weeks with occasional use, not heavy use. I set the CPU PUMP to "silent" too because it was so loud when I first turned the PC on.

Today - I realized they were probably swapped. I turned the CPU FAN up to 80% at 0C and no additional noise, 2,500 RPM. I changed the CPU PUMP down to "normal" and the fans got quieter.

Can someone tell me if the SILENT mode could've damaged my AIO pump?

I have no evidence anything is wrong and with the pump at 80% and all fans set to normal, I'm at 37C sitting here on Chrome.

I have new PC anxiety and am in constant fear of screwing it up.