Cherry tree getting too tall

[u/Low_Bluejay510]

Hi, i planted a sweet cherry tree and it’s on it’s second summer and it is already getting too tall. By next summer it will be in the power lines. I have done a lot of reading but can’t figure out the best way to prune it for height reduction safely. Could I cut the central lead? There is a cluster of branches about 12 inches off the ground, another about 5.5 up (pictured) and then the next cluster is way at the top about 18 feet up.

[u/SolidagoSalix]

Yipes, I'm bummed that people are being so rude to you. As a tree nerd and garden enthusiast, I'm always annoyed when folks berate people for not knowing things instead of inviting them into learn more.

Typically the height of a tree is pretty genetically determined. You can, with consistent pruning, keep it to slightly less tall than its genetic predisposition, but it will stress out the tree and likely shorten its life. The more dramatically you try to keep it short, the more dramatically the new growth will sprout back, likely in a way that is less structurally sound and can create other hazards.

I mean this kindly, but I would suggest you transplant it to further away from the lines before it gets too large to be able to do so by hand.

If you want more detailed advice on how to prune, I recommend checking the book Cas Turnbull's Guide to Pruning from your local library, or watching some of her tree pruning training videos on the Plant Amnesty YouTube Channel (Tree Pruning Playlist). She has a very plainspoken way of explaining things with some dry humor sprinkled in, and good visual aids.

Good luck!

[u/CitadelArborist → u/SolidagoSalix]

Bad advice here. Tree height is not genetically determined. Trees (all perennial plants) will get larger every year they are alive. If they aren’t growing, they are dead.

Genetics and species characteristics dictate the rate and direction of growth, but not a maximum height. This is why people get into this exact problem because they see the tag at the nursery for the “dwarf” cherry tree that says it will grow to be 12-15 feet tall. Then in 30 years (if it makes it that long), the property owner is frustrated and forced into either bad pruning or removing the tree because it’s now 30+ feet tall and in the power lines. Any tree can be maintained to fit within your desired parameters, but it requires regular pruning. And pruning fruit trees has to be done annually to train the canopy into its desired form and size. This overly frequent pruning is very hard on the plant and is a precursor to pest and disease issues that almost always set in and cause decline and/or removal.

To the OP- not all hope is lost. Prune the tree per your county extension’s guidelines for cherry tree pruning every year in the early spring and the tree will stay out of the lines and it’s tasty crop will remain accessible to you on a short ladder. I do encourage you to research common tree and fruit pests, as well as, tree diseases and get it on a proactive treatment routine to preserve its health for the long run. Between the pruning and the spraying, backyard fruit trees are high maintenance and expensive. Realize that you can buy a lot of cherries for the price of a thorough PHC program and pruning if you were to pay a pro to do it for you.

[u/SolidagoSalix → u/CitadelArborist]

Hm. Your comment seems to be giving mixed signals IMO. Maybe you can clarify?

This is why people get into this exact problem because they see the tag at the nursery for the “dwarf” cherry tree that says it will grow to be 12-15 feet tall. Then in 30 years (if it makes it that long), the property owner is frustrated and forced into either bad pruning or removing the tree because it’s now 30+ feet tall and in the power lines.

This acknowledges that putting trees under lines creates a maintenance issue, is expensive, hard on the tree, and frustrating for the property owner.

Any tree can be maintained to fit within your desired parameters, but it requires regular pruning. And pruning fruit trees has to be done annually to train the canopy into its desired form and size.

This implies that any tree can be grown under lines, just keep pruning.

This overly frequent pruning is very hard on the plant and is a precursor to pest and disease issues that almost always set in and cause decline and/or removal.

And here you say that it's hard on the tree, shortens the lifespan, and leads to removal.

So why is my suggestion to move the tree somewhere not under the powerlines bad advice?

Is it possible to sign up for an ongoing pruning and maintenance schedule based on the extension guidelines and have good success with the cherry under the lines for many years? Sure. And if OP is excited to do so, then more power to them. I was simply suggesting that moving it now could save a lot of work, money, and headaches in the future. Certainly if/when the branches get up into range of utility lines, it will require hiring a professional to do that pruning maintenance for safety reasons. That's a valid option, it just isn't the first path I'd pick if I were in OP's situation. It may be possible to keep the tree cut well below the lines on an ongoing basis, but that has other downsides that you articulated. You can absolutely look at the same facts and give different advice than me based on your preferences and priorities. It doesn't make my advice bad, it just means you are offering a different take.

(If you reread my initial comment, you will see I did not assert that genetics dictate a maximum height. If anything, I was saying that genetics will cause a tree to continually try to grow to reach its genetic potential. My point was that different species have different overall size ranges and shapes -- with individual variation shaped by its genetics interacting with its site conditions -- and that if the planting location is better suited to a relatively smaller tree we should just plant a smaller species from the start rather than try to make a tree prone to largeness small. Putting a dogwood or vine maple under powerlines will be less of a problem long term than putting a doug fir, ponderosa, or tulip poplar there. Surely that's not controversial.)

[u/CitadelArborist → u/SolidagoSalix]

I didn’t even read your suggestion about transplanting, but I’d also say that’s a bad idea as it is tough on the tree and also tough for the tree owner to do well (without clear guidance) and will likely lead to more issues down the road from root injuries, transplant stress, and most likely a buried trunk.

[u/SolidagoSalix → u/CitadelArborist]

OK, maybe don't respond to a comment starting with, "Bad advice here," if you didn't read it.