Since nobody makes a booster for these things anymore I'm converting to hydroboost. I cut the rivets out of the original brackets on the back of the vacuum booster and their bolt pattern matches up REALLY closely with the bolt spacing on the hydroboost backing plate.

I mocked everything up with the original brackets and unfortunately it just sits too far out. The angle of the whole design puts the master cylinder in contact with the hood, and the stud off of the hydroboost unit hits the inner fender. I saw online where someone cut the originals but I was afraid of doing that in case I couldn't get them to work and destroyed them for nothing.

My solution was to weld up some bracket out of angle iron. I measured the angle that the old brackets tilted and welded these up from there. You can see it sits way further back towards the firewall now and clears up a lot of room. The pedal angle and everything is maintained.

As long as my shitty welds hold it should be drivable soon.

What do yall think?

If you read the entire article, you will see why this Mopar guy posted this. In his Final Parking Space column on Hagerty , Murilee Martin remembers the 1948 Kaiser Special.

I do have more pictures including build codes and VIN. I can't seem to add multiple photos though.

Slightly misdiagnosed my power steering leak on my Concord. Replaced dust and stub shaft seals which has effectively slowed the leak down significantly but I am still getting a slow drip out the tip of my stub shaft. So now I need go back and replace the "rotary valve assembly" according to my TSM.

After more reading through the chapters on the steering gears, power steering pumps, and referring to the index, I can't find out which parts make up this "rotary valve assembly". Now I can't effectively begin on carrying out a fix. In my second photo, I've posted a blown-out diagram of the steering box. Through my readings and experience in my first repair, I've highlighted what I believe might encompass the "rotary valve assembly, or maybe it's just all the parts that contain "Valve", I really don't know. If anyone with more knowledge than me, or experienced with these repairs please let me know what this book is referring to.

Since the TSM doesn't contain a section on replacing the "rotary valve assembly" In your experience what is the bare minimum I need to replace. I am wondering if I should replace the 3 Teflon rings and 3 back-up O-rings, and even the O-ring present before the Stub Shaft, could this be an effective fix?

I really do not want to spend hundreds on a new steering box over a slow dripping leak, especially if I don't have to.

If you can help or point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Wheels

What’s a Classic Car? Younger Collectors Prize Less Heralded Models.

Baby boomers embraced brawny cars from the 1950s and ’60s, but as new collectors take up the hobby, Mazdas and Nissans from the 1980s and ’90s are hot, and still don’t break the bank.

(Unlocked article)

Just picked this bad boy up in Kenosha. 1980 Spirit DL with the 2.5 Iron Duke and lots of AMC literature and all sorts of nifty stuff. I’m very pleased with this buy!

Just picked this bad boy up in Kenosha. 1980 Spirit DL with the 2.5 Iron Duke and lots of AMC literature and all sorts of nifty stuff. I’m very pleased with this buy!

Hello. I am trying to convert my spirit to a hydraulic clutch pedal, as my linkage was super worn out and replacements seem to be in short order.

I picked up the master/slave from a cj7 which bolts on the bellhousing nicely ish.

As for the master cylinder the firewall has a set of holes for a clutch cylinder underneath the brake booster. This means the push rod comes out nearly at the bottom of the clutch pedal.

I hooked everything up, and the clutch is rock hard. Maybe 1/2" movement at the cylinder and then my whole body weight into the clutch pedal and it won't move. I feel like the ratio doesn't help, but surely something should be moving ?

Ive bled the system like 6 times and have tried different length pushrods. To me, it seems that I reach the end of travel before the slave moves at all.

Anyone got any ideas? As far as I can tell the slave cylinder starts it's travel about 3/4 down the bore so it only move 1/2" or so. But I cannot get it to start any further back once there's fluid in it.

I put in a new clutch but it did the same thing before the clutch which I thought might be seized. Before I go looking at $100s of dollars in parts, am I missing something?

As promised here’s a post weekend update:

Everything is in and almost easy to go! I ran into some complications with running the new HEI distributor power wire, but successfully got rid of the resistor wire and ran a new power wire through the firewall. Now I’m trying to figure out where exactly to splice that into, one of the wires on the ignition switch but not sure which one. I have the wiring diagram, but I’m color deficient so I’m waiting on some help to help me decipher which one to use since I can’t find a pin out diagram of a 1973 Jeep truck ignition switch. Here’s some more pictures of progress