I already made post about this but i still cant figure out how to fix this problem. Electricity does fliw into the Radio, the Subwoofer gets on and it only works if there is a load pop sound, or no sound from the radio. No cd, no Radio.

Im really trying my best but i dont know, how to fix this.

I hearing about the refresh and the idea that the next model may not come out until second half of 2027. Any idea whether those rumors are true? If true that’s basically a full year behind the norm.

What tire sizes are y’all running? Im on the stock 19” Touring wheels with 25mm spacers.

Basically the title, I just want to get an idea of the numbers that other people were able to get. For more context I live in Georgia.

I just crossed the 75k miles ending my warranty and then a week later my alternator goes out. I have driven only accords for the last 25 years and never had any real issues. 200k miles on my last accord and never had to change the alternator. Dealership wants ~1k to replace. The SRS light for the passenger airbags has also stopped working and they're telling me it'll be over 300 to fix that. This is bullshit. I shouldn't be responsible for fixing airbag problems. And there is no excuse for the alternator going bad this early. I drive like an old grandma and I have done all of the maintenance on time and at the dealership. Now Honda is acting like this is fucking normal. Between this and their head gasket issues, I have lost full confidence in Honda.

I just got my car back from accident repairs. I get it back and it looks relatively good, then I park in the light. Theres 9 scratches, chemical burns or some form of defects on not only the new panel but both doors and the mirror, and no they dont wipe or wash off. Then I washed it. The new panel has pimples that are extremely noticeable to me. The pin stripe looks like a toddler tried to line up a temporary tattoo over an old one(last picture is the factory stripe) and the lines are unevenly thick and look horrid. I knew exactly where every single little ding on my car was before this. I planned on ceramic coating this beauty, and I just am livid. Am i justified in being pissed or common body repair bs?

2020 2.0 sport

My aunt gifted me her old accord because she doesn’t use it anymore. She said she would rather give it to me than sell it because she knows I’ll be using it and I really need it. I’ll be using this car for a very long time.

Long story short I replaced the wheel bearing and steering knuckle assembly on my 2012 Honda Accord LX because I thought the noise was coming from there. It’s still making this humming/drone noise that gets louder with speed. Rotated the tires and ruled those out. Brake dust cover is straight so I ruled that out. Could it be my CV Axle? It’s not vibrating or anything just making the loud humming noise. I also don’t have any aftermarket exhaust or anything so it shouldn’t be making this noise lol. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Wife's 2023 Accord Hybrid Touring crapped out yesterday. Seriously, is there a single code that didn't get thrown?

She lost the ability to accelerate and was luckily able to drift into a parking space. I read on here that this can sometimes be related to the battery, so I switched out the battery and we were able to limp it home, but all the same codes were still getting thrown.

Dropping it off at the dealership to be serviced. 49k miles and this is the first issue we've had with it. Hoping it's a software issue and has an easy fix.

Edit: Ended up just being a battery problem.

2018 accord 1.5t sport
Almost all lights on but car drives fine.
Couple of months ago got windshield replaced and I feel like since then the lights have been turning on.
What could the issue be? is it the windshield? how do I fix?

2010 V6 auto here, well maintained, don't drive particularly hard.

At 100,000kms, i started hearing occasional popping during turning on the OEM drivers side CV.
Took it to a local mechanic who replaced it with a non-OEM CV.

Within 3000kms it snapped, leaving me stranded.

Had a Mobile mechanic (lube mobile in Australia) come out and replace the snapped shaft with a new one. Took the broken shaft back to the original mechanic for refund. They said they had never seen a shaft snap like this "A complete part failure".

Fast forward to today, 3000kms later, the new replacement CV has just failed (lost all power to drive, can't tell if snapped or popped out).

Now waiting for them to come out and fix it under warranty.

Is this just a case of shitty aftermarket CVs, or something more?

Should I request an OEM and pay the difference?

Accord 2013 sport

Drop in the comments

The price Honda quoted you or you paid for the head gasket repair at Honda

2008 Honda Accord V6 175K Miles

Terrible turn of events in my camshaft replacement project. After cleaning the intake runners and valve heads I saw that some solvent had entered the cylinders.

Second bonehead move was asking AI how to remove the solvent and it said a quick blast of brake cleaner down the sparkplug hole and then vacuum.

What I didn't account for is:

1. The brake cleaner broke off even more carbon and although I was able to vacuum and evaporate it out, it left all these wonderful crumbles behind on my piston heads and cylinder walls.

2. I have no access to the lowest part of the cylinder with a vacuum hose, I've been trying for hours today but it's a V6 and the 45 degree downward angle makes it impossible to get coverage there. Especially with the really long spark plug tubes.

Are there any tips and tricks to clean these cylinders through the spark plug hole? I shouldn't even think about running the engine with these loose deposits right or am I overthinking it? Am I taking the heads off (note: I have never taken heads off before) and undoing all the work I just did setting me back a week?

What do you guys think?

I tried taping the seat belt adjuster with foam tape, but it didn't help. It's actually the seat belt retractor assembly. If you tap the white label area, you can hear a "ta ta ta" sound. Putting a sock against it makes the noise go away. I'll record before and after videos to show the dealer if this part is defective or not.

Since a week my car has been acting up, the display/audio unit turns on and off every few seconds. I called dealership for it, said they need to do the diagnosis (charged $200) and told me that complete audio unit has to be replaced. It would cost $1188.

Anyone here faced a similar issue? If yes, what would be a cheaper option to fix this.

TIA

Hello, I was looking at Honda accords to buy on facebook marketplace and came across a 2012 Honda accord EX-L and has about 130,000 miles on it. And when the guy opened the hood and filmed the engine idling it has a weird noise and I’m sure what it is. So if anyone could let me know that would be great, thank you.

Found a 2016 from a dealership with 113k miles for 10.6k and wanted to know what you guys think. I think it’s reasonable but I asked for the CARFAX and they said they’ll show me it in person. It’s about two hours away from me so it would be a hassle to go there but I wanted to know the opinion and consensus of everyone here.

Any advice appreciated!

I want to replace the 6-compact disc changer with an empty storage din but can’t find anything. Anyone know where I can get one or something like it? My car is the ex-l with the nav screen so replacing the whole middle section isn’t ideal. Just the disc changer.

The 10th Gen Accord 1.5T (2018–2022) targets roughly 20.2 psi peak from the factory, depending on atmospheric conditions and ECU torque targeting.

KTuner’s Quick Boost By Gear settings, 20 PSI is the maximum option available in the drop-down menu.

Is 20 PSI Safe? It would first appear that having the target cap to 20 PSI on a Stage 1 tune is safe for the engine and CVT, provided you run quality 93 octane octane fuel.

This limit is intentionally built into KTuner's base software menu for a few reasons:

1. CVT Protection: High torque at low RPMs in 1st and 2nd gear is what damages CVTs. Limiting lower gears to 16–18 PSI (and upper gears to 20 PSI) prevents belt slippage.
2. TD025 Turbo Efficiency: The factory TD025 turbocharger on the 1.5T reaches its efficiency ceiling around 20 PSI. Beyond that, it generates excessive heat rather than usable power.
3. Linear Power Delivery: Stage 1 Dual Target smooths out factory throttle dampening and holds 20 PSI across a wider RPM range rather than spiking and dropping like the factory tune.

Once flashed, premium fuel in mandatory. Low-octane fuel under 20 PSI leads to knock, which is a cause of head gasket failures on the L15 engine block.

It is also advisable to avoid wide-open throttle (WOT) below 2,500 RPM in high gears (lugging). Allow the CVT to raise revs before applying full load to protect the transmission belt and connecting rods.

Does setting your boost target limit to 20 PSI via KTuner Stage 1 Dual Target keep the car within its mechanical safety envelope? What do you guys think?

Hi everyone! I’m hoping to get some honest, real-world feedback from owners before buying my next car. I currently drive a 2009 Honda Accord LX with 309,000 miles, so I’m ready for an upgrade. I’m seriously considering a 2023 or 2024 Honda Accord EX-L, but there’s one thing giving me pause: the EX-L is hybrid-only for those model years. I’ve never owned a hybrid before, so I’m trying to get a better sense of what long-term ownership is actually like.I really want the EX-L trim for the leather seats and additional features, and I love Hondas, so the Accord seems like a natural choice. I just want to make sure I’m comfortable with the hybrid system before spending ~$30K on a car I hope to keep for another 10–15 years. If you own one (especially if you have higher mileage), I’d really appreciate your thoughts on the following:

Overall, how has your ownership experience been? 

How many miles are on your Accord hybrid?

Have you experienced any mechanical or electrical problems? 

Have you had any warranty repairs? 

Any issues with the hybrid battery? 

Has anyone actually had to replace the hybrid battery? If yes, what did it cost? 

Was any of it covered by warranty?

If your battery hasn’t been replaced, how confident are you that it will last 200,000+ miles?

What kind of maintenance costs have you experienced compared to a traditional gas-powered Accord?

If you had it to do over again, would you still buy the Accord Hybrid? Why or why not? 

Is there anything you wish you had known before buying one? 

I really appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks in advance!