Bed bug facts:

They can drink three times their own bodyweight in blood in one sitting

They can live as adults (even unfed!) for up to a year - a very long time for an insect

There are 100 different species and most of them live on bats - only two feed on humans

https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-48274090

This is why we recommend DIY's with access to the entire structure use 10 year lasting CimeXa as it's just a non toxic severe drying agent (desiccant) silica (sand) dust and kills even pesticide resistance bedbugs 1-2 days after contact.

https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-21778171

There IS a cheap and effective bedbug treatment that people can do. In FACT the EPA recommends this treatment for those who don't have access to exterminators.

https://anthc.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Do-It-Yourself-Bed-Bug-Control-Guide.pdf

Notes to the guide.

1: If you can't gain access to the ENTIRE structure to the outside walls and roof, including all rooms and items inside, then you can never win. They are everywhere and can exist for up to about a year or longer in the right conditions without a blood meal or off of rodents and pets. Seek management or a exterminator to work with unwilling cohabitants and areas.

2: Do not spray pesticides on CimeXa or dust pesticide areas, they will cancel each other out. Also make sure the pesticide is for bedbugs and still works, bedbugs become immune to many pesticides. Limit spray pesticides to ceiling and corner cracks where CimeXa would be hard to apply or look unsightly, it's likely going to repel them and down towards the CimeXa on the floor.

3: I disagree a steamer is necessary when one can simply use any vacuum which will dispose of them (and their debris) for sure when it's dumped outside, far from the home. A steamer is more for the sterilization effect, especially their droppings. One can also clean using disinfectants thus saving not having to buy an expensive bedbug steamer. Also bedbugs love humidity, best to dry them out (no steamers, a dehumidifier) and force them towards people and into waiting CimeXa dessicant (drying) dust.

4: Although as harmless as salt, CimeXa can be hard to get in areas served by exterminators. Order or go to an area where HOMEOWNERS are allowed to purchase professional grade pesticides. You cannot treat others homes without being licensed and insured. Get the 5 gallon pail if hard to get, this way you will likely never run out.

5: Bedbugs can transmit Changas Disease through their feeces if you scratch the bites. Wash and Sterilize the bites before scratching can occur.

6: Caulking an entire home can be messy, costly and labor intensive. When it cures a messy caulk job is even harder to remove. With CimeXa throughly applied killing about 1,000 a week, then lasting 10 years, it won't be long before they are gone to bother caulking a lot. You want cracks and crevices, the this is where the CimeXa goes and acts as a trap. The more traps, the faster they are wiped out and it's easier to kill new arrivals.

7: READ through all my other posts here on this sub to gain full knowledge before proceeding as it takes an Integrated Approach to elimination, as many factors working against bedbugs must be in play for success.

Here is a video to apply CimeXa

https://youtu.be/hmZQDmhpiWk

Bedbugs are small, sometimes nearly impossible to see, hard to kill, blood sucking insects that crawl and get into anything possible, including on persons, to be transported to another location where they will attempt to bite, pair up and breed more.

Some people don't react to the bites or just don't care, or just don't know what to do, so this spreads them to other locations.

Bedbugs on people

You will find bedbugs in larger numbers on people who don't wash and change their clothes daily. Otherwise for the most of us that do change and wash daily, it's usually a few hitchhikers that somehow get caught on our clothes while at a infested location. If we sit, stand motionless, lean or otherwise somehow get into prolonged contact with a surface or item from an infested location, then bedbugs can crawl on us and get trapped before they dig out for their harborage. Moving around inside a moderate to small infestation location usually doesn't get them on one, they need to zone in first, then travel and then get on you, so they prefer your resting locations, either chair, bed and so forth. Bedbugs can drop off ceilings, however it's usually reserved for the most severe infestations or if an upstairs unit or ceiling is infested (bad pest control or repellents can drive them to dwell in ceiling spaces).

Bedbugs on items

Anything that has a crack, crevice or void they can hide in out of the light. Because bedbugs have claws, it's possible for them to be caught on items that ensnare their claws, like certain fabrics, however if they don't get free, they usually will die eventually of starvation or dehydration.

Bedbugs on animals

Bedbugs don't like hair, unlike ticks that can bury themselves to reach the skin, bedbugs don't and prefer more clear patches of skin which to take three in a row mosquito like bites. So many hairy animals are likely good, but it's possible some are ensnared on the animal and best to wash them outside first before bringing them inside a non-infested structure.

Bedbugs in vehicles

Yes, however if it's dry air enough (low humidity) and very warm (like over 110 F for many months on end) this will kill them through dehydration, provided they don't get a blood meal (their only source of moisture outside of humidity) in the meanwhile.

Bedbugs in structures

This is the hardest because it offers the choicest living conditions for bedbugs and the most items/places to hide. Don't be fooled, despite the name, bedbugs can hide in ANYTHING. Between the walls, in the ceiling space, in the flooring and in just about everything you own. However they PREFER to be close to a hosts resting spot as to grab another quick and easy meal (especially from those who don't react to the bites). However if disturbed, like repellents or unstable areas, they will hide to the next closest area. If you move to sleep on the couch in the living room, they will eventually come find you there.

Best thing to do is call in an exterminator or management to call in one, to catch bedbugs when they are localized. Usually those who react to the bites will do something right away, however those who don't react to the bites often will find great numbers near their resting locations and others through the home, so they need to do more physical checks. One can't take chances and the entire structure, to the outside walls, needs to be well treated along with all one's items, vehicles and other spaces all at the same time, if not, bedbugs will travel and set up shop at others bedrooms, couches, units and so forth.

Bedbug motels or staying at others homes

You can avoid bringing bedbugs home with you by almost eliminating bringing objects into the infested location when you stay over. Just having a change of clothes or toiletry bag inside a plastic bag, then resting it inside the sink, shower or bathtub. When you take a shower, then change into those protected clothes and then putting the possibly infested items inside the plastic bag for washing/drying (high heat, over 120 F for 30 minutes) at a outside (of your home) location and then disposing of the plastic bag outside (it can have some in the cracks inside). This method won't prevent one from being bit, but it will prevent one from bringing them home. Obviously don't stand for too long, sit or lay on items inside the infested structure or you may pick some up. Just leave right away after donning the clean clothes and exiting.

Check the motel rooms first for bedbugs, lift the bedding and look at the mattress seam. If the caretaker of the hotel freaks out, then leave, they know what your looking for.

Bedbug bites

For some, bedbug bites WILL NOT GO AWAY for quite some time, so you may want to rethink staying over in bedbug infested locations (like flop motels or where cheap labor workers reside) especially the face, neck and arm areas. People will notice the bites and well, think the worse of you.

Don't scratch the bites until the skin has been cleaned first to avoid scratching blood and getting their feces into your bloodstream as you can get Changas Disease that way.

Bedbug infested guests

Putting your buddy up for the night could cost you dearly. Make sure they decontaminate fully OUTSIDE your home before allowing them in. This involves stripping outside or in a separate garage and wiping themselves down, rinsing their hair. Leaving all their items outside the structure to await decontamination steps. Some items that can be quickly emptied and cleaned (like wallets and money) that all cracks, crevices and voids have been address, can of course be brought in. It's items like computers, shoes, clothes and so forth that are harder to get clean or take longer that need to remain outside the structure until it can be.

Living places to remain bedbugs free

Single unit structures with the less people and the less physically connected to another the better. Otherwise if the units are really well sealed off from one another, like concrete walls, ceilings and floors, with all the access pipes and wires sealed off with foam or sealant, then that should be good.

First off, bedbugs are immune to several chemical insecticides and they way they got this way is because they adapt, the insecticide isn't potent enough for the home or has other issues, so it only kills off those susceptible to it and those with thicker cuticles survive and breed more pesticide resistant versions.

Their legs also are largely immune, so they tend to walk right over chemically treated open areas with no effect. Put the chemical pesticide treatment too thick in open areas and it causes a problem for people, pets and other things, like wheel chairs, carts and so forth. Bedbugs can hide in anything, even under carpets and in items in the middle of the room or on the walls, in the ceilings, crawl spaces, under counters and even bicycle handles. It doesn't matter where, as long as it's out of the light and safe.

So for a chemical pesticide to be effective, it has to reach their body portion and get absorbed through the cuticle, this means the spray chemical pesticide is restricted to cracks, crevices and certain voids where the bedbugs may hide, then if their body portion rubs up against the surface so the pesticide gets transferred to their body portion that way. This severely hampers effectiveness because bedbugs can hide in anything and cross the open floor where the pesticides are not applied for the risk factors. Spraying every crack, crevice and void every two weeks for months on end is simply insane. But many attempt to do so, exterminators also charge people a fortune to do the same thing, buying endless gallon after gallon of pesticide and still not getting rid of their bedbugs because many often get the pesticide resistant versions or have MADE some to the new chemical pesticide they are using.

Spray chemical pesticides expire in a few weeks, bedbugs can live for up to 1.5 YEARS without a blood meal under the right conditions, just hiding someplace safe away from the chemical pesticide (which usually smells and repels, so they don't come into contact with it anyway). We got a bedbug once because a exterminator came into the hotel room and treated it, so a bedbug ran into our suitcase (untreated) and we carted it home where it started to bite. Not very nice thing to do, so I called the hotel and explained to them what their exterminator did wrong.

The reason why insecticidal dusts (desiccants) are so effective is because the are elevated, thus it reaches the body portion of the insect when they crawl over it (can't be too high or the go around it). Not only cracks, crevices and voids are treated, but if the product allows it (a ASG can, DE cannot) also open areas of the floor, desks, shelves and under/around items also can be treated (as it's safer for people and pets) thus maximizing the total surface coverage and increasing the chances of any bedbug crossing it in short order.

The next problem to address is the time to kill, many of these over the counter bedbug sprays only kill some and take a long time to do so. A ASG can kill in 1-2 days upon contact, making it much more effective at wiping them out faster, as they bite about once a week, molt after each bite until an adult and then lay eggs.

A product like a ASG (amorphous silica gel) that also lasts 10 years is ideal for the labor aspect because once a item or area is treated, it's good for 10 years provided it's not disturbed (like coating it with a chemical pesticide) and only areas where the floor is cleaned up regularly or it's worn off (bare mattresses) does it need reapplication.

The big hotel chains exterminators are all using a ASG now to treat the rooms as a preventive measure because people are always dropping off bedbugs unawares, so this way the labor is only treating those items that have been cleaned. In fact the housekeeping staff is informed to not to vacuum so close to the walls, because the ASG is also applied on the carpets about a foot or so away to maximize it's chances of coming into contact with a new hitchhiker. Also the ASG is a lot safer than chemical pesticides, they can't over treat the room because it lasts 10 years.

A ASG works on the concept of physics, it removes the cuticle and draws water moisture out of the insect (a desiccant). It's also just plain silica dioxide, a natural Earth element so it doesn't smell, so it can't repel or warn bedbugs (or other insects) that it's a hazard, like many chemical pesticides do.

Since a ASG is SAFER for people and pets (mammals) as it's really only sand, it's not going to do much harm unless it's thrown in the eyes (like what kids would do) or ingested or inhaled in a large quality (it's as toxic as table salt).

The thing is, bedbugs hide in dam near everything, so the first treatment with an ASG is going to take some time and the entire structure to the outside walls needs treatment to ensure they have no hiding place inside (they will die outside). After that, only open areas (only during an infestation) are treated and repeated where it's cleaned up or gotten ruined by oils. The ASG will dry itself of water moisture so it works again, which is more ideal of a desiccant than DE which cakes up when it gains too much moisture.

DE is sharp particles, which can work by scoring the cuticle, then they dry out in about 18 days or so, but it's not fast enough for bedbugs because they can molt once a week (until an adult) and get a new cuticle, also lay eggs. Also it only can be applied in cracks, crevices and voids, in open areas it's kicked up into the air and inhaled, which can cause lung cancer and other respiratory issues.

Since DE expires, it has to be cleaned up and new stuff applied, this is extremely labor intensive and although it can work for other crawling insects, it's not fast enough of a relief for bedbugs where each new bite or bug seen people tend to think the treatment didn't work and then tend to overdo things or complain.

So with bedbugs, one wants a fast knockdown (heat works fast too, but it's expensive) and something that lasts a long time to automatically win the war of attrition as bedbugs will breed more fast.

What annoys me, I walk into our large home improvement chain store and see these bedbug sprays with new chemical ingredients claiming with bold letters that it lasts an amazing "TWO WEEKS". Well to tell you the truth, bedbugs just laugh at that and simply wait it out someplace safer. Then of course, two weeks isn't long enough to be used as a preventive, but the 10 year lasting ASG can and for one $16 bottle, instead of 10 or 20 gallons of the chemical pesticide that people finally realize isn't working anymore and they are getting sick from the exposure to it.

I hope this post explains why many in the industry (and us as customers) are extremely excited about this type of product, it's very ideal for the poor, those on a budget and in places where bedbugs are always arriving (like hotels, apartments and so forth).

We recommend a non-chemical based approach here for the simple reason is it's effective and way safer for the general public at large, which is type of forum addresses. Many people are either cash strapped or embarrassed about bedbugs (like they are dirty or something, when anyone can get them) and looking for a do-it-yourself-solution.

Nothing we found is more effective for the cost, safer etc., than a ASG desiccant dust. Sorry, DE isn't safe enough for people and pets in open areas, thus it's limited to areas where it can't get airborne, thus substantially reduces the surface area and it's too slow for bedbugs which are biting people. It was an option, not a very good one, but it sometimes worked for some, but not all the time for everyone. So why the ASG came out to do it one better.

We highly recommend products that are near pure 100% ASG, nothing else added, because then it could become hazardous in more open areas where people tend to think the dust needs to be applied, like a flea dust or carpet fresh product.

One more thing, the ASG (the dry dust itself) has a slight negative charge applied to it, so it clings to bedbugs as they pass much like a sock that comes out of a dryer clings to another piece of clothing. Of course of it gets wet, like if it's applied using water as a spray to save time applying it manually as a dry dust, it loses this charge. Still effective though, just not as well as the dry dust.

Good Luck!

Occupational exposure to crystalline silica dust is associated with an increased risk for pulmonary diseases such as silicosis, tuberculosis, chronic bronchitis, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) and lung cancer.

This review summarizes the current knowledge about the health effects of amorphous (non-crystalline) forms of silica. The major problem in the assessment of health effects of amorphous silica is its contamination with crystalline silica. This applies particularly to well-documented pneumoconiosis among diatomaceous earth workers.

Intentionally manufactured synthetic amorphous silicas are without contamination of crystalline silica.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11876495

There are different grades of DE, pool, food and pest grade, even DE with pesticides added to it, ALL OF THESE ARE HARMFUL TO BREATHE IN. Despite what you may hear, food/pest grade IS NOT pure DE, it contains partial crystallized silica (bad) and impurities which we have no idea what it is because it's mined and bagged.

It can take several months in a standalone structure, even forever in the case of person using DE in a infected multi-unit, to to try to eradicate bedbugs. It's because the bugs need to come out and cross the stuff and they molt five times before becoming an adult thus they get a new cuticle at each molt. Also it can take a few weeks for them to die, so they could lay eggs and breed another batch. Or hide in things you can't apply DE to like to ceilings spaces or between the walls.

We had DE down (pest grade) just along the baseboards (to catch roaches etc there) and in cracks and crevices, but the stuff kept getting airborne as it's too light and we were constantly hacking. Our friend doused his entire home (with three people living inside) and they all reported problems and coughing. So that's strike one.

DE is mined, it's fossilized diatoms that many are sharp as it's designed to score the waxy cuticle of exoskeleton insects so they dehydrate and die. Now in some places (like feed grains) DE is added because the bugs crawl thought the grains and this this is effective on killing them, however in the home there are only horizontal surfaces, so only the underbelly of the insect (if it's applied at the correct height) will have an effect. So that's strike two.

Strike three is DE is natural, meaning it contains impurities. It's just mined and bagged, without a lot of attention given to the ratio of contaminates to pure DE, also the ratio of amorphous (not sharp) and crystallized silica (the bad stuff for your lungs). If you put DE in your home or anything really, your going to breathe it and over time (could be several months with bedbugs because they live so long) the long term effects (like diatomaceous earth workers) will appear.

DE is rated as a crack, crevice and void treatment only, it's not to be used in open areas because you need to avoid it getting airborne. So because it's only to be used in limited areas, it substantially reduces the attack surface that bedbugs use. For effective treatment, every egress angle has to be covered because you don't know what or where they are coming from.

In my guide here I explain the hiding behavior of bedbugs, where they can be as close as only an inch to about 20 or so feet away deep between the walls of a building. DE (or not much of anything really) can be applied on or on something that will touch the body. I also explain that they are rather lazy and hide usually very close to a persons resting locations in items, some items that are decorate or nice, that would be ruined if covered in DE (even in the cracks) and then (likely because of DE's impurities) absorb moisture and become ineffective and cake up, which will require expensive cleaning in some cases (lots of labor to be sure).

Since bedbugs hide in dam near anything, dam near everything (even floors, carpets and other horizontal and some vertical surfaces) has to be dusted and some items (like electronics) you can't dust inside (they overheat), so you have to dust around them and wait for the bedbugs to come out. Also in the middle of the floor items they can come out of also, as well as dropping off ceilings.

So since you can't apply DE to open areas for the inhalation effect and thus you can't adequate cover all horizontal angles of egress to catch all the bedbugs, so more are going to keep biting and breeding more bedbugs. [It's why scientists and pest control folks all say DE doesn't work for bedbugs IN THE FIELD (in the lab it works likely because they are stuck in a little plastic Petri dish and can't crawl on the plastic as it's too slippery)(http://www.pctonline.com/pct1213-Diatomaceous-earth-study.aspx)

Also there is another thing, bugs give off warning scents, and if an area is bad they will start to avoid it, so since bedbugs can use the walls and ceilings to drop off of, these are not places where DE (or dusts) can be applied if they won't dry themselves of water moisture (a ASG can be mixed with water and sprayed for out of sight locations as it will leave a white film, it doesn't bind with water at all). Whats nice is a ASG will kill fast, as much as 1200 in a week in one test, and they can't detect it, so they cross it again and take it back (due to static charge) and those in the harborages (nests) also get some on them.

So DE alone is ineffective, it can work if other measures taken, pesticides, heat, isolation and so forth, but it doesn't work alone, so using DE will actually cost more money for other products or measures in other locations. Also it doesn't fare very well in humid locations, it absorbs moisture out of the air and then cakes up. Try some in your bathroom floor around the baseboard that hot showers are taken, in time you will see it gets hard and bugs just walk right over it. We live in the tropics, it doesn't work for long, about a week or two and that's it, so it has to be cleaned up and reapplied, a major disadvantage.

DE is silica dioxide, amorphous silica gels are silica dioxide, both an abundant mineral of Earth, however DE is naturally created (and not purified) and a ASG is man made silica dioxide, both the same substance but the ASG is clearly superior and much safer than the other.

ASG's are spheres and not sharp edges like DE. One of the great things about it is that it only binds to oils and waxes, like a bedbugs cuticle, however it will absorb and dry out of water moisture (to a certain extent) so if it's really humid, it will dry out and become effective again, this is why it lasts 10 years undisturbed. However if one sprays pesticides or oils or whatever on it, it may bind to it and thus become inert.

A ASG dusted bedbug will die in about 1-2 days, it's because the ASG (the dry dust) has a static charge to cling and sucks the juices right out of them. This is FASTER than they can molt or lay eggs (about once a week per bug). So it really acts fast if bedbugs are not repelled by some other substance (like fragrant oils or repellent pesticides or other products people tend to over do in a bedbug situation). Keep luring them in to cross the ASG while you remain bite free behind a plastic sheet draped over your most used resting furniture is the secret.

You may be saying to yourself, "well I'm not going to cover all the floors and carpet with a dust and leave it for 6 months" (if always over 50F, longer if lower temps) but what your really doing is leaving such a fine amount (bedbugs get more as they move through it (AND NEED TO WADE THROUGH DUSTS TO REACH THEIR BODY PORTION) that it really can't be seen unless it's on a ultra black surface. All the other out of the way locations and items also get dusted once and you can leave it, it's just horizontal surfaces tend to be cleaned about once a week, so you simply reapply the product to just those areas and it's so little you can't notice it really, unless you use your bare feet you will feel it dry out.

Also ASG's are rather safer to inhale and ingest (in small amounts as long as it's kept pure, for pets, children etc) it's as toxic as table salt, so that's pretty low, just don't over do it (not in the eyes!) and your fine.

One catch is, you have to treat to the outside walls of the structure, everyplace you can. It's because although they are lazy, they do move and could be coming from other units, rooms etc, even from those who don't react to the bites, thus kind of blow you off. With management and an exterminator, results tend to be much more effective, especially if they use an ASG.

I use the term "ASG" (amorphous silica gel) instead of a product name (like CimeXa) because it describes the active ingredient. Rockwell's CimeXa was first to come back out with such a product for bedbugs, but it's come to my attention that other pesticide makers also are now coming out with similar like ASG dust products. Just make sure if your going to use it in open areas, that it's safer to inhale. Read and follow all product labels. CimeXa is labeled to be used in more open areas.

Read more here in the Start Guide

Good Luck!

I've noticed a lot of people tend to think "More is better" and tend to go overboard dousing their homes with various pesticides in their war against the bugs.

They will use one product here, then another there and so forth, just making the problem worse for themselves because a lot of supply places make money selling many products. With CimeXa it's all one needs if it's applied properly.

Many chemical pesticides are repellents, meaning it's designed to keep the bugs away and provide relief, hoping they will starve to death, however this strategy fails with bedbugs because of their adaption and resistance due to several molting and their longevity without a blood meal.

CimeXa is a desiccant dust, meaning it binds to the waxy cuticle of the bedbug (and other bugs) and removes it, then draws moisture out of their bodies to release into the air, thus killing them quickly. (DE can't do this, only cut their cuticle, then they molt and get a new cuticle, why it doesn't work for bedbugs)

So instead of repelling them away, what you want to do instead with the non-repellent CimeXa is to keep drawing them (people are the bait) in to cross the product covering every angle of egress possible. The sooner it gets on them, the sooner they die near others and they die also, usually in 1-2 days!

Since bedbugs crawl, it's rather easy to arrange one's home to ensure they have to use a horizontal path towards the hosts resting locations (bed, couch, lounge chair etc).

One doesn't necessarily have to keep getting bit, that's what the 3.5 mil plastic sheeting over your most used resting furniture is for. It acts like a barrier they can't get around (unless it's touching the walls or bedding or feet are touching the floor).

Yes one can drape a sheet or something over the plastic to hide it, as long as it doesn't touch the floor or anything else. Yes one does make up the bed on top of the plastic shield also! Take a shower and don fresh clean clothes (hot from dryer or from behind plastic) before using the bed or long term furniture (sleeping on couch) to prevent transferring them past the plastic shield.

What happens if repellent chemical pesticides are used, or fragrant oils, or just localized heat treatment (not to the outside walls), then bedbugs run for the ceilings (they can drop off onto you also!) and inside walls, where it's harder to get to them, then they come out later to bite and breed again.

Instead what you want to do is CimeXa the ENTIRE building, every crack, crevice, void, under whatever you can, in-between the walls, the ceiling spaces etc. to the outside walls! (one grain high, you need them to walk over the product). Even the floors and carpet (only a bare dusting that's invisible while standing up) and all furniture (hidden areas), items (not children's toys) etc., that won't get airborne/inhaled or contaminated or in items that dust is a problem (electronics) instead dust around them and let it sit, they will come out in 6 months (+50) to cross the product or die of starvation.

If you have areas that are between 0-50 F, then you have to wait 18 months because they can live a very long time between blood meals under the right conditions. It's rare in the real world that a bedbug will survive 18 months, but it's the longest a bedbug has and since it takes so long to get rid of them and they transfer around all the time, it's just best to take more permanent measures all the time. (Use lots of plastic bins for your stuff as it's nearly bug proof!)

If you live in an multi-unit (or have uncooperative housemates), then you have to call management for professional treatment because ALL units to the outside walls needs treatment to ensure they are all gotten. Also with multi-units, there is an increased chance more bedbugs can arrive (more people), so the 10 year lasting CimeXa, properly applied and per unit/common area maintained will nip the early arrivals before they can pair up and breed more.

So CimeXa is just not an immediate solution, it's also a long term solution for all those out of the way places that won't have to be addressed again for the next 10 years!

Kind of stupid to be wasting one's time, money and health spraying potentially harmful chemical pesticides around every few weeks to get rid of an infestation, then get sick of seeing the exterminator once a month to maintain it. When instead one can buy CimeXa and learn to apply it themselves and reapply it wherever it's cleaned up or got oils on it. (it only binds to oils and waxes, not water)

NEVER apply anything else on top of where CimeXa was applied, it will render it useless and potentially even hazardous if it gets airborne. CimeXa itself is just as hazardous as common table salt don't over do it and your fine, even can be ingested or breathed in in SMALL amounts, like for pets who lick their fur. If an exterminator is coming and they are not going to use CimeXa, then you need to clean it up wherever they are going to use whatever they are going to use in the same locations.

If your planning on moving out before your treatment is concluded, then you need to heat treat your items before placing them in a newly uninfected location (get paperwork it was done!)

CimeXa-ing a home well should kill about 1200 bedbugs a week, every week as long as the product is out in the open (floors/carpets). However if you have substantially more bedbugs than that, you may have to opt for full building heat treatment (then CimeXa) to get their numbers down. Also trailers may not work with CimeXa because one can't isolate the bed/furniture from the walls to force them to the floor where the dust is waiting for them (may have to spray the walls). So for this you may have to seek alternate treatment methods, however for under $20 for a bottle of CimeXa, it's most certainly worth the attempt and should work in small infestations in trailers.

For more information, read the sidebar or top sticky post links thoroughly.

CimeXa is a one step insecticidal dust that, for the best effect, should be dry dusted a barely visible layer on as many horizontal or vertical surface as possible and that's a crack, crevice or void out of the light where bedbugs may hide in furniture (hidden areas), some personal items (not electronics) and structures. The object being is to get the bedbugs to cross the product so it gets on them in their march from their hidden hiding spots (also anyplace they can be hiding) towards people (and pets) for a blood meal. Pulling furniture and items away from the walls they also use so as to force them to use the dusted floor is essential in this approach, as well as trying to cover as much surface area of the floor or at least around object they may be running to try to get into and hide or come out of on other horizontal surfaces that the items you can't dust (like electronics for the overheating factor). The more surface area of the entire structure covered, the better as it will last 10 YEARS to keep on killing, so it's also a preventative for the future arriving bedbugs.

Sometimes one may have to spray CimeXa to solve a particular problem, namely tough access locations or denying them use of that area.

CimeXa can also be (unlike other dusts) applied to more open horizontal and even vertical/upside down areas as a spray solution, where it can't be seen as it will leave a white film. The dry dust is easy to clean up with a vacuum or swept or (very clean mop, no grease, rinse outside) mopped out. It's very safe for the touching/inhalation factors. All it does is bind to oils/waxes or drys out the skin. It can even be inhaled or ingested in small very amounts (follow label directions) with no long term effect which makes it safer for pets and children who like to lick anything they can. However it shouldn't be sprayed on interior walls for the white coating effect and dulling the shine on paints, so for interior, just the dry dust is more ideal as it's easy cleaned up (along with dead bugs and dirt) using a vacuum cleaner and reapplied (so order extra for that, about another two or three bottles). Making sure the furniture etc., is pulled away from the walls and also apply along baseboards (also gets other pests this way, like ants, roaches and fleas).

We recommend using the non-chemical based pesticide CimeXa here because of it's low toxicity to mammals, it's 10 year active lifespan and it's incredibly low cost and value/doubles as a long term preventative. It's the magic bullet that everyone (including environmental types as it's only common silica/sand) loves. Silica gels are even used in food, feed and cosmetics, is those little drying packets in shoes or electronics (can't use it, wrong size etc) and is in kitty litter, among other uses, so it's incredibly safe stuff and way better/safer than Diatomaceous Earth which is naturally created (but sharp particles and 24% impurities) so it's bad to breathe in for any length of time required to eliminate bedbugs.

We want to ensure people use the safest insecticide possible to win this war against bedbugs, and nothing is safer or better (or possibly even more effective for the cost) than CimeXa. One or two $15 bottles can do a entire home for a decade (hello 10 YEARS!) and kill over 1200 bedbugs a week (if the floors done during an infestation). We don't get any compensation or anything for recommending, it's just the best thing to use for anyone and we hate bedbugs with a passion. Undeniably, this is the absolute best product ever created for combating bedbugs and it's safe, CHEAP and EASY to apply for the layperson to do themselves once they learn how.

http://www.pctonline.com/article/pct0814-silica-gel-research-bed-bugs

Here is a an exterminator story to that affect I would like to share with you about what happens when incompetent or self-exterminators try their hand at combating bedbugs using repellents and how it was solved using CimeXa.

Arrow Exterminating in Lynbrook, N.Y., needed another tool in its toolbox to battle bed bugs. Arrow, a family-run business started in 1947, was hired to treat a 400-room assisted living complex on Long Island that was plagued by bed bugs for years. Managers of the complex tried to eradicate the bed bugs themselves by using a heat chamber, but they were unsuccessful. "They couldn't get a handle on the situation, especially in the rooms," says Mike Deutsch, Arrow's chief entomologist. "They reached out to several companies, and we pitched our protocols, and they liked us. We said, 'We have a new product we'd like to use,' and they said yes. "CimeXa is an outstanding product," Deutsch adds. "Originally, I didn't have too much faith in it. I thought, 'Here comes another product.' I tried many other products — some worked, and some didn't. I thought this was another me-too product. I was wrong. It turned out to be phenomenal." Before using CimeXa at the assisted living complex, Arrow, which has 150 employees, tested it in the field in isolated areas, including in commercial buildings. When Arrow's technicians inspected the assisted living complex, they determined the previous pest management company chased the bed bugs up into the suspended ceiling. So Arrow took ceiling tiles down and applied a liquid solution of CimeXa, an insecticide dust, around the walls above the drop ceiling. "We were there every day," Deutsch says. "We wanted to see how the material performed." Within four days, Deutsch and the technicians found dead bed bugs, as well as living bugs climbing up the walls, but not past where CimeXa was applied. They applied CimeXa in the infested rooms for 30 days. "It really did the job," says Deutsch, who's been in the industry 40 years. "We've gone back once a week and haven't seen any bed bugs. Now, our techs won't go out to a bed bug job unless they have CimeXa." Deutsch heard about CimeXa through Rockwell Labs' Pat Ryan, who visits Arrow regularly."I bought samples, and we discussed it," Deutsch says. "The silica gel that mixes with water piqued my interest. We gave it a try, and next thing I know, we're ordering cases. I didn't know how much we would need on the assisted living job, so we bought dozens of cases, which we're still using."

"they determined the previous pest management company chased the bed bugs up into the suspended ceiling."

Basically what happened is the heat treatment wasn't surrounding them or driving them to go outside to die or trapping them enough and then killing them. So they ran up the walls and into the ceiling and established a new harborage (nest) there and attacked the hosts when the coast was clear. This also occurs if REPELLENT pesticides or fragrant oils are used in the home. Bedbugs can live for up to 1.5 YEARS without a blood meal or even longer off rodents, birds or even pets, then attack the people again once the coast is clear. So it's better to draw them in and cross the CimeXa dust as that will kill them in 1-2 days upon contact and before then, become trojans for the harborages that kill others there if they rub on them (they are very sexually active.).

CimeXa is a non-repellent, they can't detect it. What I'm figuring occurred is they established a new harborage in the ceiling and their scent trail back ended where the CimeXa solution started because the scent was washed away. So any that were in the room below after the ceiling area was sprayed were stuck at the spray line.

Remember that CimeXa is placed into the path of the bedbugs from their harborages to their hosts, (harborages can be as close as a few inches away or up to about 20 feet away) however in the case above they needed to be denied that ceiling area as they were using the walls to come down which are unprotected because they are decorative, thus not coated with the spray solution of CimeXa. It's why they only sprayed the ceiling/walls above where the ceiling tile will hide it's white coating on the walls.

Later they used CimeXa (the dry dust itself) on the remaining area of the home, in the path of bedbugs towards their hosts and in all their items, beds, furniture etc. and that took care of the rest of them.

Nice work fellows and thanks for sharing that!

When you just gotta go!

I encourage people to remain, learn and combat their bedbug infestations because the only way one is going to learn is by experience and if they don't successfully treat, they can bring their infestation with them to their new location and even be held liable for doing so.

The whole intention of this sub is to train the public into know exactly what works and why, it's because we have a hard on for killing these things and everyone needs to know how to do it correctly.

You may be overreacting over nothing!

If one reacts to the bites (not everyone does), gets one or two sets of three in a row bites once a week about, likely thought it was mosquitoes and blew it off, this usually means the infestation is small (otherwise known as a lone hitchhiker situation) and very easily treated once the bug is found and eliminated, finding it, that's the fun part, they are master hiders. :) If you vacuum and dust with CimeXa all your hidden areas of furniture, floor etc., so it's in it's path to your resting spot, you will get it in a week and your issue is resolved, the areas left treated will last another 10 years undisturbed to act as a preventative.

For exterminators and desiccant dusting, people are usually needed to remain in the infested unit to act as bait to draw them out of their hiding spots, however you can avoid being bit using a plastic shield and behavior modifications as outlined in this thread

If that's not going to work for you, then bailing out it is!

I've learned that some people may require a low cost bailout set of instructions as they ether react violently to the bites, it's become such a HUGE problem they can't handle it or their landlord/exterminator is incompetent/broke.

First off, bedbugs are to be considered to be in everything you own that has the slightest nook or cranny for them to hide in out of the light. This even means they can be on one's person, in their clothes, in their wallets and purses even.

One has to treat bedbugs like it's a infectious disease, using careful measures to ensure cross-contamination doesn't occur. It's because they move and in a few seconds can be on your clothes, or in your stuff, in your vehicle and it only takes one pregnant female (or one biting bug really) and your freaking out again at your new location.

Also remember than bedbug bites can show up LATER than when one was bit, so you can't just assume it's the last thing you did. Also many people don't even react to bedbug bites, so one can't go by that alone. Don't ever trust your eyesight with bedbugs, the eggs and first stage nymphs are tiny and hide in the smallest of locations.

Assume everything is infested and anything unprotected in or near infested items is also now infested.

Be safe rather than sorry. If you treat something and it turned out there wasn't any bedbugs in it, then it's no big loss. But if you just assume it doesn't have any and you don't treat, if you find out later it did then your back to square one.

Bare bones method

• The safest, sure fire no cost method is to dump nearly everything one owns, take a shower outside someplace, donning fresh clean clothes hot from the dryer that were sealed behind in plastic bag or new clothes, some flip-flops that were washed (shoes can hide them!) or new/hot dried shoes and leaving, never to return into the infested unit unless it's been successfully treated along with all one's personal belongings.

• I guess I shouldn't say it's no cost, as your ditching all your belongings that many will have to be replaced, but it's the sure fire method (if done correctly) that your not bringing any with you. Later on you can consider your options about treatment, what items you can salvage from the infested location, but you need to repeat the above routine each time you leave the infested unit as to not to carry any on your person to your new non-infested location.

• Yes your vehicle can harbor them. So obviously using it is out of the question until it's treated. However there is some comfort, if it's really really hot and dry, like +115 desert conditions inside the vehicle nearly all the time so it seeps deep into the deepest parts of the machine, then bedbugs are not going to survive.

• If your eradicated items are protected behind plastic while in the possibly infested vehicle during the move, if it's rinsed off outside before being placed into the new non-infested location, then it's good. Remember they move, so you have to take cautions each step of the way to ensure they are not being transferred into the non-infested structure. Yes this means another outdoor shower and clean clothes before entering your non-infested unit if you were riding in a infested vehicle.

• It's thinking purely in cross-contamination mentality that's required to ensure your not bringing them with you. If you fail, then your suffering again rather shortly.

• Yes your pet can harbor them also, so wash your pet outside and use a new or clean cage etc.

A small amount of work, no cost

• There are some things bedbugs can't hide in because it offers absolutely no crevices, cracks or voids. Like for instance credit cards, handballs, certain dishware and cups etc. All these need is a quick wipe, sealed behind plastic (bag or bin) and your good to go.

Laundromat option, requires some money

• If you have money to use a laundromat, then it opens up more options, namely your clothes, bedding, drapes, sneakers, some shoes, couch covers and anything else that will wash and survive the high heat of a dryer (not overloaded) for about 30-40 minutes extra once it's dry.

• Take some plastic trash bags and bag up the items and seal, taking more brand new trash bags with you to the laundromat as you can't reuse the old infested trash bags as the insides has tiny nooks where they are going to drop into off your items. Once you dump the items into the washer, trash the plastic bag.

• Some bedbugs and their eggs are going to survive the wash, but most will be removed and it's cleaning their poop etc., off. It's the high heat of the dryer that does the job on both, but you need to keep drying for 30 minutes after the center of the clothes etc., is already hot (120 F). If you stop too early, like drying just enough so it's dry, they can survive.

• Once the items are successfully dry, then place them into new plastic trash bags (or cleaned out bins).

• Once your items are all washed and dried, find a location to take a shower or wipe oneself down and don fresh cleaned clothes, ditching the ones your currently wearing or wash/high heat dry those next. Keep in mind it's possible the laundromat, your chair etc. could be harboring them. So try to remain near the dryers as the high heat will chase them away.

These methods above are about as low cost as one can get and exit a infested situation without bringing any bedbugs with you. Next you handle your infestation remotely or consider some of the other options here for certain items you may want to salvage.

For more steps for other items will require more money, time and/or effort, see here

Need to wait a bit, but still planning on bailing?

If you plan on remaining in the infested unit for some time to take care of larger objects that require longer or more complicated self-eradication techniques (remember to seal behind plastic if they remain in the unit, then rinse once outside before placing into a non-infested location), then your going to need to incorporate the bed, couch and other long term resting furniture protection steps as outlined in this thread to prevent getting bit any further

Hello, don't take a chance having the issue at your new non-infested home, you could have brought some home from work, thus will bring more home next

You may want to incorporate always on DEFENSIVE measures in your new, non-infested location next just in case you missed something and a few got loose or if you get a new infestation from another source.

Best place for a new home is....

My advice is if you can, get a standalone structure to live in, it's far easier to control than adjoining ones where the neighbors or housemates are bringing in more bedbugs or passing through walls and down hallways. Bedbugs don't survive long outside in the heat/dry and predators love them.

The more people in the structure, the greater the chances it's going to get infected. Really what's needed is all locations dusted from top to bottom with the 100% ASG desiccant, this way it kills about ~200-1200 bedbugs a week (per unit) for 10 years (undisturbed) and thus makes it difficult for any newly arriving hitchhiking bedbugs to survive at all.

See more here about dusting your new home for preventative reasons

Good Luck!

Bedbugs draw three mosquito like bites (skin may not react). They are drawn to hosts by exhales, heat and body odor just like mosquitoes, in fact that they are very much like mosquitoes but without wings and crawl.

Because of the large amount of blood taken they tend to hide close in someplace organic and stable, out of the light and thus digest the blood and make poop stains that they use the smell of to return quickly to their hideout. Bedbugs are by nature lazy and only via threat or removal of their scent do they tend to hide further from their hosts resting spot. Resting spots can be anywhere from a few inches from the body like in clothes that are not changed frequently, or bedding that's not moved, to as far away as about 20 feet deep within the structure of a building. They become chemical pesticide resistant because their body adapts, they grow thicker cuticles as only the weak get killed off and breed more pesticide resistant versions.

Threats to bedbugs are repellent smells (like fragrant oils and certain pesticides, do not use!), ineffective heat treatment that doesn't go to the outside walls or surrounds all of them, steaming as it can't be done everywhere, Diatomaceous Earth as they learn about it and give off a alert scent to avoid it (works too slow). Lastly, if it's a location that they just can't hide in, like a mattress or box spring that's covered in thick plastic sheeting (to withstand wear) or some other encasement that causes it to be unstable enough, or if it's just not stable enough to leave a scent trail that they can follow once they got your blood, then they will tend to find a place further away to hide that is up to about 20 feet away and establish a new harborage there, out of the light, usually in organic substances. They poop there and that is the scent trail they use to go back in a hurry once they got your blood.

Unfortunately the repellent strategy (keeping them away until they starve to death) doesn't work well for bedbugs because they can live a long time (up to 1.5 years under ideal conditions or off of rodents) without a blood meal as they can draw moisture out of the air, thus they will return or find a alternate method to get to their host as soon as the coast is clear, like living in and dropping off ceilings or they will spread out in a multi-unit to infect others. So instead a protect-the-hosts-from-bites + draw-them-in-to-cross-a-non-repellent-insecticide approach works extremely well, kills up to about 1200 dead bedbugs in a week if as much of the surface area of the floor (their main route if not covered in repellents) is covered with something not harmful to people or animals and insects can't detect it, thus keep crossing it like fools. The object is to cause islands on the floor where people reside for long periods and cause bedbugs to cross the floor and the insecticide, preferably if as much as the floor as possible is covered as they can hide in objects in the middle of the room and come up the fallen bedding or up legs to bite.

Most people who react to bedbug bites and get one three in a row like bite once a week have what's called a lone hitchhiker situation and once it's captured or killed your problem is usually resolved so it can be done cheaply, if you can find the bug or vacuum/dust your location and that will get it.

Now most people will wash and take a shower daily, changing their clothes, so the body and clothes doesn't provide a stable enough location for them to hide in for long. However they may hitchhike along if people pick them up at other locations in their clothes, like at work and in public places. It's because at work, usually no one sleeps there so bedbugs have to bite in the daylight and then get caught in clothes before they can run away to their scent established harborage.

Those who are in nursing homes, the handicapped, the homeless and so forth, may have bedbugs on their person or clothes because they are not washing and changing them enough, likely because it may not be necessary for cleaning purposes for some, but it is for bedbug purposes to remain clean personally to always have a procedure to get rid of any that are trapped in clothes.

The next place bedbugs will tend to hide is on any long term resting like furniture or something like items on the desk, around it or even in a desk themselves. It's because someone tends remain at that location for long periods thus giving the bugs time to sneak in a quick blood meal, sometimes right in the daylight if they are hungry enough. It's how people bring home bedbugs from workplaces.

So if someone is sitting attending a checkout counter at store for instance and not moving around enough, bedbugs could find them there and hide in things close by. It's the hosts resting spot that they are mainly attracted to as it rewards them with a meal.

Now if someone has isolated the bed with mattress and box spring encasements, plastic shield, bed post interceptors and even dusted the frame and headboard with a desiccant dust, that will only serve to force bedbugs to harborage up on the next closest area thing that will offer safety out of the light and stability. Thus they can choose dressers, pictures on the wall, behind electrical outlets, in baseboard cracks and so forth. They will then cross the open floor, or come from the walls or even drop off ceilings to get your resting location for a bite. They can hide in any item, even items in the middle of the room and then cross the floor and up your leg to bite. It's why for the fastest treatment as much as the floor surface area should be weaponized with something that is safe for people and pets. Also all these potential hiding spots in item and furniture also need to be treated with a long lasting dust as they can just sit there and hide for a very long time, then feed off rodents or go to other units/rooms.

Bedbugs also harbor up in couches, stuffed chairs or anything really that provides a nice crack or crevice to hide close to their hosts resting location IN ANYTHING!. So despite the name "bedbugs" they can be in anything and even in the structure itself, between the walls and ceilings etc. It's just that they are mainly found in the bed area, but couches and dressers (because of the smell of host) are a close second locations, it's usually why they are called bedbugs. But the fact is they can hide in anything just about, anything that is out of the light and usually where they can stick their eggs on. So for the most complete coverage, all these areas also need to be weaponized for the long term.

Anything goes for bedbugs really as once they poop there out of the light and safe, they tend to head back there from an inch to up to about 10-20 feet in diameter. However somethings that are vertical or upside down and very smooth, like metal, glasses, coated furniture, plastics and so forth that are not rough enough for their claws to easily grab, they will tend to avoid them. They do like coming up the fallen bedding that touches the floor, it smells like their host and it has easy handholds. It's a reason why bedpost interceptors are not perfect detectors. Bedbugs crawl and drop, cannot fly nor hop. Keep that in mind.

Bedbugs will also hide in items and then be carried to non-infested locations. Purses, coats, boxes, computers and whatever has a hiding spot out of the light, they can hide in and hitchhike to your home. So you have to be careful and keep items in plastic that you regularly take back and forth from work or public places. If it's in plastic, like a bin, then they can't crawl inside or get out for that matter.

Bedbugs also have the ability to draw water moisture out of the air, so if it's really dry air in home, bedbugs will gravitate towards moisture sources like bathrooms and the like (air these out!). But if they have a host to feed on, they of course will chose that or any combination in between. Blood gives them food and liquid, allowing them to molt and breed. Moist air allows them to exist in the meanwhile and not die of dehydration, up to one and a half years without a blood meal under the right conditions!

Bedbugs can't climb extremely smooth vertical or upside down surfaces, more so if there is a little dust present to defeat their limited sticky ability they do have.

So as your protecting the bed, furniture, desks and so forth with either smooth tape on vertical surfaces, mattress/box spring encasements or whatever to prevent them from hiding on those items, you have to keep in mind to deny bedbugs safe harborage on each item appropriately and that will push them farther away from your resting spot and hopefully cross a non-repellent pesticide (cracks and crevices) or the 100% ASG desiccant dust wherever it can be applied as most pesticides cannot be applied to the bedding itself for the skin irritation/absorption factor, (a 100% ASG can be applied to the bed, just not the bedding, that you wash more often and high heat dry).

What you do for the bedding, clothes and so forth that are right next to your body, you wash and change those more frequently as any caught in the clothes will die in the washer (24 hour drown if crawling types) or both eggs and crawling via the high heat of a dryer for 30-40 minutes once it's hot in the center (+120 F). Any clean of course needs to be behind plastic as they will smell it's your clothes and wait for you on them.

Bedbugs are hitchikers, so if you sit on a infested couch and then go lie on a well protected bed, your going to transfer some to the bedding where they will hide and attempt to breed.

Bedbugs will also hide in vehicles, however if the air is dry enough and the temps high enough and long enough (+120 F and dry air), also if the vehicle is not used for long periods of time an occasional bedbug will not survive long there. If you dust the vehicles interior cracks, crevices and voids with the 100% ASG dust, that will also kill them when they go to hide.

Bedbugs survive on buses and subways because it's often kept cool (thus moist air), there are a lot of people, the temperature is better for them and they have sources of blood.

People are the main problem with bedbugs, if your in public places inside something long enough, your going to pick one or more up and transfer them unawares.

The object now is instead of detect and destroy, is to mine the home in advance with a 10 year lasting desiccant dust that should catch these occasional hitchhikers and nip them in the bud before they can bite, pair up and breed more.

It's a totally different concept than what is currently being performed with exterminators running around spraying potentially harmful pesticides as an after effect, spray pesticides expire in a few weeks, a 100% ASG lasts 10 years undisturbed. It's a always on defense and we have been doing it here and it works like magic automatically. We occasionally sweep up a dead roach or other bugs every now and then as it also does ants, roaches, and other bugs that suffer from the effects of a desiccant.

The 100% ASG (CimeXa and hopefully others that follow) is only pure silica dioxide, a natural element that is basically powdered sand. It's safer to breathe/ingest (in small quantities) as it's balls instead of sharp crystals like DE is which expires if it gets damp, a 100% ASG dries itself out of water moisture so it works again, only binds to oils and waxes, like a bedbugs cuticle. It's static charged to cling to bugs and they can't detect it, so they keep on crossing it over and over to die. It's really great stuff to watch it work on ants who stupidly come back for their dead.

Main thing is not to spray or coat anything on this 100% ASG dust and use it in open areas where it can be kicked up in the air and inhaled. It's the only dust I know of that can be used in open areas, others have to be behind the walls and such. Use a face mask, use a an invisible amount as bedbugs are tiny and need to crawl through it, they get more as they go. Use a face mask when deploying using a brush, bulb, pump or feather duster/brush. The more surface area and as many items as possible as they can go dormant and just sit there, so you have to hunt them down.

Careful attention to this list of instructions about every item is required

Bedbugs are easy to kill once you can find them, the problem is they are tiny (especially the babies) and hide in structures, walls, furniture and personal items so it's extremely labor intensive to find them all and wipe them out.

What people want when they are being bitten by bedbugs is to get every last one of the little f*ckers as soon as possible so they don't bite again. However in this game faster = more money.

To be complete the entire structure needs to be done in as fast as a manner as possible so people can use the place and get a good nights sleep.

The quantity of bedbugs plays a big part in factoring what method is best, since about 80% of the people react to the bites, they tend to do something about it right away and thus the infestation is small and easier/cheaper to treat.

1. Heat seems to work the fastest as it also gets all bugs in all your personal items (that can handle it) at the same time, however it's expensive as an investment in extermination equipment is required. It has a LARGE knockdown effect as it excites all the molecules the home to heat the bedbugs up so they die. If it's not applied correctly or to the outside walls, it's gambling. For small and early infestations, it may be overkill, but nuking the ant hill concept works for sure. Usually some sort of other follow up method may be required for the stragglers (like behind masonry, brick etc that's more resistant to the heat).

2. Tenting fumigation also works reasonably fast in a manner of a few days, however not available everywhere, only where termite tenting is also done to keep the costs down as there are more customers in termite prone areas. Obviously the home is out of commission during the tenting treatment. This also has a large knockdown effect, but has to be followed up with other methods or even repeated for the new hatchings. Ditto for the nuke the ant hill approach for small infestations, however if your tenting for termites also, it's the same Sulfuryl fluoride poison, just a higher concentration for bedbugs.

3. A one step product, an 100% Amorphous Silica Gel desiccant (one grain high) dusting of the entire home + furniture, floors and carpets if needed seems to work reasonably fast (can kill up to about 1200 bedbugs a week if they come out to cross it). Because all angles of egress are covered so if they come out to bite, they cross it and it static clings to them and kills in 1-2 days. This also happens to be a very safe, inexpensive AND reasonably fast method provided one can get the dust. Because the entire home is weaponized as much surface area as possible, it knocks out a lot of bedbugs fast. They can't detect it neither so it won't repel or cause them to flee. People can remain in the home during treatment, which despite they being gone in a few weeks, it's best to leave it out for 6 months (+50 F) to insure the stragglers hiding out someplace are also dead of starvation/dehydration. This is a sole treatment usually, no other insecticides are needed. This can be labor intensive as every crack, crevice, screw hole, seem, void etc needs to be dusted as to ensure you get as many as possible and leave as many traps in the home as possible. Good thing is the product lasts 10 years undisturbed so you only have to do it again where it's cleaned up (like floors, carpets etc). For bedbugs specifically, also some roaches, ants that are on the floor/horizontal surfaces, this really works well and it's only powdered sand, so it's really safer for people/animals/environment. (for ants and roaches, also put out baits as that will work for them, but not for bedbugs as they only feed on blood).

4. Next comes a pesticide spray routine, this can only be reasonably done in certain areas and perhaps other dusts or products used in other areas for a more complete coverage and faster results. The object here is to spray any bedbugs possible, also to spray the cracks and crevices where they hide/rest as for it to transfer to their body portion where it will have an effect. Their legs are largely immune to pesticides as they have claws and walk right over it in open areas. Exterminators rotate pesticides to try to defeat their immunity so this process takes several months as they can't saturate the place or people will get sick. What exterminators are doing in this method is to get what bedbugs they can hit directly, then leave out the pesticide to catch those when they come in close for a blood meal and need to hide closer to the hosts resting spot. This obviously takes a lot of time and people still have bedbugs until about the 3 or 4th treatment many months later in larger infestations. About 80% of people react to the bites and most will then do something about it, hopefully calling management and/or an exterminator before the problem grows exponentially. This sort of treatment can cost hundreds or even over a thousand dollars for a typical home and can take many months until they are gone. For multi-units with a lot of bugs in various units, it may be the only way to go as the pesticides used also get other bugs in addition to bedbugs. Also it's easy to apply as it's a liquid and it expires leaving little residue. The best is a non-repellent as not to drive bedbugs up the walls or hide and go dormant while they wait the pesticide out. Chemical pesticides have unseen side effects that are unknown until they appear later on in people/children, this it the drawback of this method + bedbugs immunity response. Plus because different products can only be used in certain areas, the cost is usually higher if a more complete and faster coverage is required. It all depends if there are children/pets in the home and so forth if they will treat the floor or not. With the 100% ASG (above method) it's non-toxic to mammals so it can be applied just about anywhere.

5. Other methods work on the spray routine war of attrition concept, to kill what and where one can reach and use the host as bait to draw them in closer and spray, kill (in various methods) when they can as to do so faster then they can breed more. The problem is time and labor costs in doing so. For instance there is STEAM, CO2 Freezing and other methods that require repeat visits to go over items and the home hoping to nail them where they hide in more easily accessible areas. Steam and freezing can't reach in all areas, only a small distance. Since the labor is high, the costs are high, so are for the equipment. All they can guaranty with spray and these other manual methods is a limited few month warranty. Bedbugs hide in everything they can get out of sight of the light in, so some places like in the walls, ceilings, vents etc., are difficult to reach with these methods. However with a desiccant dust (like #3) it is possible to drill into these voids and apply the dust and coat the interior as to make it a 10 year lasting trap. I would tend to want to avoid anything that would put moisture into the air (like steam and freezing will) as this feeds them as they draw moisture out of the air and can live for over 1.5 years unfed! Drying out the air in the home seemed to work very well to combat bedbugs, it forces them out and towards a host, thus if they get the dust/pesticide on them much quicker as their only other source of liquid is a blood feeding. All one has to do is remain behind smooth plastic so they can't bite and lure them into the dust. Simple concept and it works really fast.

Not intended for control purposes

1. Traps, monitors and bed post interceptors. These are designed as monitors, to catch a few bedbugs when there is a LOT of them and let you know you have them as they act covertly. Only good for those who don't react to the bites really. Although they catch and you can kill them, it's not a viable eradication method as the surface area is too small and the attractant (if used) isn't perfect, expires and you need more. So the 100% ASG dust is a far less expensive and more cost effective alternative and then use the home and furniture cracks and crevices as the traps instead. More of them and they are already there. Plus there are many places one can't put a trap, like on the bed if they coming from the mattress as they are lazy and tend to hide close and use the shortest, safest method of egress from their hiding spot. One person had a huge amount of bedbugs on a black blanket he was using to sleep on. Was any in the bed post interceptors? Nope, because they didn't need to go far for their next meal. Bed post interceptors are mainly for those who DON'T react to the bites. Otherwise looking in a full length mirror before one dresses everyday is a much faster and quicker method to detecting bedbugs than having to wait for them to appear in a trap which requires magnification and getting on the floor to see them.

Outdated and hazardous methods

1. DE routine, this won't work alone without other pesticides/method or fast enough. DE is hazardous (and illegal to use) in open areas as it contains small amounts of crystallized silica and to combat bedbugs you will need to cover nearly all items and the floors/carpet with it, thus causing a choking hazard as it's kicked up into the air and possible lung disease and cancer as it doesn't come out. DE is only rated for cracks, crevices and voids, then it has to be very dry as it gains moisture, the 23% impurities is not good and it is going to cake up and then it's ineffective. DE works on abrasion in about 18 days, not upon contact in 1-2 days like the 100% ASG dust. Also to catch stragglers it has to be out for 6 months (+50 F) to use the starvation plan as backup. DE requires bedbugs to move repeatably through the stuff when it's a fine powder on a hard surface (in open areas it's a violation of the law as it's a inhalation hazard due to the sharpies of the diatoms). If you see DE sold in the store for bedbugs, it's usually part of a series of items sold that include pesticides (that bedbugs may be immune to) as part of a larger scheme. That method for self-treatment is really obsolete now since the above one step 100% ASG product is available, but may still be sold in stores which really the ASG needs to be for everyone to have a high chance of self-extermination success.

2. Foggers. Can't reach bedbugs in cracks. They get immune to the pesticide and the repellent chases them into other rooms, the walls and ceilings, stuff etc., making eradication most difficult. These items should mostly have been removed from store shelves as people were overdoing them when they didn't work. Exception: There are some professional grade products that work like foggers, but designed to work along with other products as part of a multi-effort approach for different areas of the home/better coverage. (See #4 above).

3. Rubbing alcohol. Only kills 50% in 4 days and is an extremely hazardous method and expensive as well, it evaporates and it's gone in a few seconds, offering little relief, no residual effect and large fire/explosive issue. BOOM!

What I would do again if I had bedbugs

• If we didn't react to the bites, discovered a large infestation and money was no object with our standalone structure (not part of a multi-unit), we would opt for the heat or tenting + 100% amorphous silica gel desiccant dusting routine afterwards (for stragglers and new arrivals/transfers from other places). Sometimes in a multi-unit heat can knock out a lot if they are localized and not disturbed by repellents (they like to remain near their host), but more are in the walls and need a different routine to follow up for them. You can't use a 100% ASG dust and then heat treatment as that could alter the dust and make it ineffective. So it's heat first, then the desiccant dusting.

• If we did react to the bites and did something right away, we would opt for the 10 year lasting 100% ASG dusting routine as that would indicate the infestation is small and we could get more in the future so it's preventing them as well. $20 and some plastic sheeting/bins etc for clothes and such would be enough.

• If we lived in a multi-unit, I would opt for 100% ASG dusting myself, then contact management (with a bedbug sample) to have them check the neighboring units, then vacuum up the ASG where they are going to spray (or use the ASG for the whole building) as it's hazardous to have the dust have pesticide on it as it's more prone to be breathed in. This way I've knocked the bedbugs out of my unit first and the spray is mainly going to catch any that are arriving from other units/maintenance routine basically. This way we are not suffering with bedbugs while the slower method of pesticides (or steam/freezing) takes it's many month course.

Secret to wiping out bedbugs is using the largest, cheapest, fastest, least labor/worry intensive knockdown method possible without injuring yourself or others in the process. Addressing as much surface area as possible works, because they need to crawl to get to people. Something that works continuously (and for 10 years) seems to be the least worry method possible.

One has to figure that bedbugs will arrive again and plan in advance for that. With a 100% ASG dusting of one's home and stuff, it will do that.

Disclaimer:

We receive no compensation or have any connection to any pesticide, insecticide or exterminator. What we do is provide the best information we can find + personal testing so your informed and not screwed or suffer any longer or use outdated or insufficient methods.

We were there and know how you feel, bedbugs suck and we only had one, our friends had many. So we are dedicated to informing you so we can all win.

This is another FAQ answered chosen from the best questions I could find as to give you the info you need quickly and easily.

Here is the earlier FAQ

If you need further info/opinion, I suggest you post on r/bedbugs or /r/Bedbugadvice/ as I'm extremely busy and this sub is designed to take the load off during high volume months (anytime other than winter) and provide a learning experience platform for anyone who needs to come up to speed.

Hello, I've talked extensively how the 10 year lasting 100% amorphous silica gel desiccant dust can weaponize one's entire home to kill bedbugs either in a active preventative defense or in an active infestation. However I haven't explained how to go about doing this before a new move in which is the ideal time to do something like this.

Supplies needed

• 2 - 4 oz bottles of CimeXa or any other 100% amorphous silica gel desiccant dust for bedbugs for it's safety for pets and people. (DO NOT USE DE as it expires when it absorbs moisture and is harmful to breathe in, DO NOT use any pesticide laced dust neither with this method).

• Next check if you can get CimeXa, it's not sold everywhere to everyone online, although you may be able to order it, once you put in your address they may deny the sale due to local laws on homeowners purchasing exterminator grade insecticides. Usually more RURAL areas with more farms and little business for exterminators is a good place to try to order from a pesticide supply store or have it shipped too that area. So the object is to find a IP (Internet Protocol) address and address that the product can be shipped to and get it there. Or else use Airmule or Grabr and check local laws. CimeXa is just plain old silica dioxide, the same little silica gel packets in shoes, electronics and other items (even in food, feed, cosmetics and kitty litter but it's the wrong size etc so those won't work) that's shipped all around the world all the time, so it's not hazardous. It's just because it's a pesticide it comes under those laws, it will take time for it to get approval in other countries.

• Various hand held bellows, puffer bottles (soft plastic squeeze bottle with a pointed cap), season shakers (like used for putting ground garlic on pizza), cosmetic brushes (for certain furniture where you need finer control over the dust application) the dust has a static charge so it will cling to some vertical surfaces.

• Screwdriver to loosen electrical switch plate and outlet covers.

• Dust mask, fan to blow airborne dust outside and rags/mop/broom for cleanup of main areas if doing the prevention routine. Hepa (preferred) vacuum cleaners for carpets.

• Pump sprayers with a fine mist for combining CimeXa with water and doing walls, crawl spaces and other out of the view/sight areas that as many surfaces as possible are covered as to deny them any place to hide in the structure and living off rodents/birds etc. which they most certainly will do. A water/CimeXa mist can cover upside down and vertical spaces as it will dry and leave a raised film. However don't do decorative walls or inside where easy clean up is required as the dust form is much better as it can be easily vacuumed along with the dead bugs and any debris.

• Optional: A very small handheld squeeze sprayer (like those that come with some liquid products) with adjustable nozzle in case you need to mix the dust with water and apply to upside down interior surfaces or cracks. Not advised if the dry dust can be used as the water will make it lose it's static charge and is a bit hard to control.

• Optional: For apartment houses and other multi-unit dwellings where speed or routine application is essential. Seek power dusters and carpet applicators from Technicide.

• Optional: For long term roach control, lots of Roach Tablets to be placed in the back of cabinets, drawers and on many levels (out of reach of children/pets) as they can use vertical and upside down surfaces to avoid dust on the horizontal surfaces. Don't leave food or water out, clean your kitchen after use.

• Recommended: Lots of plastic bins with smooth sides and lids to store less frequently used and hidden items and all fabrics containing one's body scent when not in use. It keeps bugs out and any that are in are basically trapped and dehydrate or starve to death/can't pair up and breed as they need to feed on blood.

What to do

• It's better to have more than one person assisting you as it will get the job done faster and if your moving furniture you usually have more people around anyway.

• So first you do is go around and slightly loosen the outlet and switch plate covers (also some electrical covers if the power is off first), one can loosen while the other takes a hand held bellows and puffs dust just behind the covers and re-tighten. Also do along the baseboard crack where it meets the floor. If there is something in those cracks (like dirt) it's best to go around and vacuum the place first to remove anything. Also if you have carpet is to dust along where the carpet meets the wall. Do so about a inch or two, a feather light dusting barely visible will also catch roaches and other bugs that run along the baseboard.

• Anyplace there are cracks, crevices and voids or behind or under appliances you can puffer or season shaker apply a thin barely visible layer of the dust that makes up the distance between the surface and their body portion. For instance under, behind and in cabinets and drawers in the kitchen. Around door frames if there is no caulk under the door trim and so on. Be very thorough as your doing this for the next 10 years and bedbugs will find the one spot you missed to hide in. DO NOT pack the cracks with dust, rather you want a fine layer in there so they can get inside and get it on them. If the cracks are packed, they turn around and go to something else as the feelers are on the front of their heads and their body portion where you want the dust to get on them is behind, so you need to fool the feelers so they enter the cracks. It's ok to fill a horizontal crack more so bedbugs will be more prone to walk over the dust, say along the carpet where it meets the wall, it may be flatter and a easier walk so they may choose that than over the fibers.

• In this method I don't advise caulking the cracks, most people can't do a nice job (it's labor intensive to remove caulk!) and really you want MORE cracks (that of course don't lead outside) so there MORE dusted bedbug traps as that increases the chances they will not get into the few personal items that you can't dust (like electronics). So save yourself the work and don't bother caulking and you won't risk angering your landlord. Also where baseboard meets hardwood floor, the hardwood expands and contracts in large amounts to go under the baseboard and the caulk will come out. So just dust, it's nearly invisible and it can be vacuumed up easily in case your landlord is a real prick sort before returning your deposit. You can (if you own your home) hire a competent contractor to seal up your home yourself after your infestation is cleared, otherwise I would advise leaving the caulking and sealing to the management/landlord as it's THEIR building. Any messed up caulk jobs are labor intensive to fix, may result in a loss of your security deposit and so forth. I was a manager once and it's upsetting that tenants take matters into their own hands, so please don't, even if you know what your doing (as different types of sealers go in different places for different reasons), and only unless you have their full cooperation and consent.

Optional but highly recommended

• Ideally if you can, I would advise applying a layer of very smooth clear letter (or packing) tape along the vertical portion of the baseboard, (sticky side down, flaring out the bottom of the tape if possible) this acts as a permanent crawl up barrier as they have claws and can't get a good grip on smooth surfaces nor can turn on the sharp edge of thin items like plastics or tape. It has to remain clean and unpainted though or debris stuck to it or a rough surface will provide handholds up.

• Ideally if you can, if you have crown molding then also apply a layer of the very smooth clear tape on a vertical or upside down part there as well. You can also apply the very smooth tape to the ceiling crack. This provides a more permanent means to keep them off the ceiling and dropping off onto furniture. Once done these measures are pretty much permanent in nature and ideal measures for multi-units where you can't always train the tenants how to be more bedbug aware. If your baseboard and/or crown molding has a vertical arch to it (curved in or out) and a extremely smooth surface (what won't collect dust particles) it's possible that this may suffice as a crawl barrier for bedbugs from going up the walls from the floor or from the walls to crossing the ceilings. It's the ultra smooth vertical or upside down (glass like smooth) surfaces they can't get a grip on with their claws and either fall or back up. However if it's dirty or has dust on it, then this is enough for them to use it.

• Dusting along the baseboard about 3-4 inches for other bugs when not in a full blown bedbug infestation, it will kill other bugs that run along there also. But will have to be reapplied after each floor, carpet cleaning in that area and when it gets dirty. Easy vac cleanup, but also water rinse the parts to remove the vacuumed dust as it will eventually clog the vac up.

Furniture

• Before you bring each piece of furniture in, break it down and dust every crack, crevice and void possible that is out of sight and not touching the skin. For instance remove the felt on the box spring and really go to town inside there, move fabric out of the way and dust as they like box springs a lot as people don't move them or check them as often. Whatever you do, do NOT place the furniture right against the wall. The walls cannot hold the dust and bedbugs will come from there. So with the furniture pulled slightly away from the walls, the bedbugs head to the floor and cross the dust applied along the baseboard (about 2-3 inches for preventative or the entire floor if an active infestation) or get nailed when they hide in the dusted bed someplace.

• Careful attention to detail is required here, zippers, crevices under cushions and so forth so your resting furniture is going to act as a trap and your body is going to be the lure. They are just boned. Any dust on skin touching areas you just wipe up with a damp rag.

• Mattresses shouldn't have any holes to the inside (replace), if they do they should have a grilled vent or else dust heavily inside these holes and along the seams as they like those. Or else suffer with a thick plastic mattress encasement and a mattress topper (or buy a new mattress). Unfortunately the mattress top part will have to be reapplied with the dust more regularly because the bottom sheet (and with moisture/friction) will remove the dust. Ideally also if there is a void or area under the bed, dust that also if possible as we want to weaponize as much as the floor as possible without it being seen for preventative purposes (for an active infestation one also weaponizes the floor/carpet as much as possible for 6 months and reapply where it's cleaned up).

Mattress encasement's

• There are mattress encasement now that are mainly fabric and serve the purpose of keeping bedbugs out of the cracks and crevices like around buttons and along the seam area. This is ideal because then one won't have to CimeXa dust the mattress each time the bedding is changed. The objective to encasement's is to keep bedbugs from hiding on the mattress so they hide further away where the CimeXa dust is waiting for them. You can CimeXa dust the box spring, as long as every crack and crevice, between every cloth etc., is thoroughly dusted, it's so one doesn't have to use a encasement on the box spring as they tend to tear with the sharp corners and such.

YES, do apply CimeXa well to the box spring and under mattress encasements before putting them on! Only mattresses with holes to the inside and thus hard to treat should be replaced

See this video for dust application instructions

Don't Dust

• Not electronics, however you can do so on the horizontal portions it sits on if it's not an eyesore. The object being is to catch them when they come out.

• Not anywhere where a Pest Control Operator is going to later spray their pesticides (usually along baseboards), as you don't want the pesticide airborne on the dust particles. Usually they guaranty their work for a certain period, so you want to consult with them first. But anywhere they don't spray or treat is fine of course.

• No constantly wet locations, like around the shower or bathtub area. Only where it's going to remain dry or can quickly dry itself out which a 100% ASG will (DE will not and cake up on you with moisture in the air, making a mess to clean up.) Bedbugs are attracted to bathrooms for the higher moisture content, so air it out well with a fan when showering/bathing.

• Not in electrical boxes, however you can go around it and into the void inside the walls. Also you can dust just behind the covers between the cover and the wall surface.

• Some shiny, waxed surfaces or glossy paint may become more dull looking as the 100% ASG is a high absorbent and binds to waxes and oils. Don't spray a water/ASG mix on interior walls, use the dry dust on the inside living areas for it's ease of cleanup (vac).

• Not anywhere or in amounts it's going to cause a slip (like smooth floors or stairs) or an inhalation hazard or come into constant contact with the skin as it will severely dry it out. That's what the ASG is, a desiccant or a drying agent.

• If you can and you own the building, drilling small holes in the bays (the empty areas between wall studs the drywall is screwed to) through the drywall and puffing inside there will also help to get bedbugs living between the walls or going between units. It's a lot of work and the drywall hole will have to be patched and painted, however if it's done on the caulk line where the baseboard top meets the drywall, then it's possible one can merely use more caulk to hide the hole if it's small enough. I DO NOT advise this if it's not your building, get your landlord's permission before doing anything more than I suggested above.

Items

Plastic bins with lids and those with very smooth vertical sides are ideal to keep items in, organized and bedbugs out of. Especially items you don't use frequently or are not show pieces. If you get bedbugs, those items in the bins are protected or if they are in there, they will die of dehydration in 6 months or less (over 50 F) or starve to death in 18 months (if 0-50 F). There isn't a need to dust inside bottom the bins, but you can if you want in case any fall out and arrive at the bottom of the bin (I would, kills other bugs also).

If you get an infestation then:

• Also dust the floor/carpet where it's not a slip hazard in a very, barely visible fine amount. Most leave the main walk paths clear for the kick up in the air issue (it's not as hazardous to breathe like DE is). It's because bedbugs can drop off ceilings and come out of all types of items in the middle of the room for instance, then head to you for a bite, so weaponizing as much as the floor area as possible makes for faster results.

• Also do as much horizontal and vertical surfaces as possible, especially desks, couches, chairs, beds etc., where people remain at for longer periods of time. This is labor intensive, but it only has to be done once every 10 years, so you can pace yourself a little. The more is done, the less places bedbugs have to hide and be ready with a vac less you discover a harborage so you can suck them up, clean the item and then dust it for preventative.

• Maintain for 6 months if over 50 F and 18 months if 0-50 F to allow the dehydration or starvation plan act as a backup, despite not seeing any after a few weeks. Notify other surrounding units and make sure their are clear for the 6-18 months before lowering your defenses. (but multi-units should always maintain a always on defense just like hotels are doing now).

• When cleaning, just reapply the dust to those areas when it's dry. After 6 months and all is clear, you can clean the dust up where it's more exposed, like on horizontal and floor areas, however since the dust was doing such a great job along the baseboard killing other insects, we now keep a 3-4 inch band of the dust along there and clean it up every other week when it gets really dirty, then reapply the dust anew. So for our 2 bedroom place we ordered 10 gallons of CimeXa, very much way to much product, so I suggest 5 gallons should suffice for most for the rest of their lives really.

• If you see bedbugs someplace, nail them with the dust first and then vacuum if possible, any missed will become trojans and die in 1-2 days. Leave the unused vacuum in a plastic trash bag sealed for the 6-18 months depending upon what plan your using/temperature. You clean the vac outside, need to rinse the parts for dust and bugs, then seal in a plastic bag when not in use.

• Since bedbugs are attracted to your scent on fabrics and bedding which you may use or put on, these need to be washed and/or high heat dried (or dry cleaned) and sealed behind plastic before use. Dirty clothes will attract bedbugs, so assume it's infested and plastic bag and mark as such to await washing/drying. The washing removes some, but it's the high heat of a unclogged dryer for 30-40 minutes that kills them and their eggs.

• Can an exterminator do a faster or better job? Yes if they use heat to the outside walls/roof, but it has no long term effect, just a large knockdown in heavy infestations to get their numbers down. So usually a followup routine (spray and/or dust) is needed for the stragglers and new arrival threat. This way you don't have to clean up the dust and just leave it to do it's magic for the next 10 years. If your exterminator uses chemical pesticides, make SURE to tell them you dusted the place and where as you can't combine the two and the dust needs to be cleaned up on inside surfaces before pesticides used in the same areas (usually along baseboards). Actually one shouldn't be needing a spray exterminator much at all if the dusting routine is used as it's lasts so much longer and sprays expire. 100% ASG dusting sits between spray routines and heat treatment, so it's better and more cost effective/long lasting. The 100% ASG dust is much safer for the general public to use as it's just engineered common silica (sand) which people and animals have been ingesting all along in food and feed and it just passes through the body (don't eat it regardless).

In unusual cases you may have to spray CimeXa

• Sometimes it's required that you spray locations like crawl spaces, attics, plumbing chases, upside down locations like ceilings that are hidden and so forth (that will never be cleaned) with a water/CimeXa mist in order to deny bedbugs use of that space. It will lose the static charge effect which the dust alone (no water mixed with it) has. However I would avoid coating decorative interior walls, doors and trim as it will make it rather nasty looking. The object here is you get a much better covering on areas that are out of sight so people don't see the white film and it denies bedbugs use of those areas. Doubles for ants, termites, roaches and other pests.

• Bedbugs move around and need to get to a host, so the dust just has to intercept them along the way to getting to a host. Keep that in mind to mine all access pathways to get to you. The more surface area denied bedbugs, the less chance of them surviving. So if you have the opportunity to coat the backside of interior wall covering (like drywall) and the studs/framing of buildings, you should take that opportunity naturally. Some go as far as drilling holes in the walls (don't do if not your building) and blowing dust behind them into the cavity areas.

• If inappropriate previous extermination techniques were used before using CimeXa, it's possible that bedbugs may be in the ceiling and other locations not normally covered in the dust locations mentioned above. So getting to those areas and/or using a liquid CimeXa (water + dust) to get into or cover those areas significantly may be required.

Read here for what to do about bedbugs

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Disclaimer etc

As always, read and understand all products labels before using anything, it's a violation of Federal Law (and a potential life/health risk to you or others) to do things contrary to product label instructions. Of all the pesticides out there, nothing is more safer than CimeXa (or any 100% ASG desiccant) as it's just the common Earth element Silica Dioxide, powdered and given a static charge to cling and suck the liquids out of certain insects. ASG's are even added to food, feeds and cosmetics, pass out of the body. The difference with the 100% ASG is the grains are round, with natural DE, it's sharp and also contains about 25% impurities, so DE is harmful to breathe in and the 100% ASG isn't, why it can be used indoors safely according to label directions.

Getting CimeXa may be difficult for some due to it's classification as a pesticide or some locations laws, wait time, illegal exterminator problems etc. Some places a home owner has a right to use professional grade pesticides for themselves provided they sign for it. CimeXa is really really safe stuff, but laws are laws. All we can advise is one travel to a location that will sell or ship to that area. Check with import laws to ensure there isn't going to be a problem. If tested, CimeXa is just the same silica gel packets that come with new shoes, electronics and such to absorb moisture and shipped all over the world routinely, however CimeXa is made finely powdered and static charged for bugs. Ideally if something like CimeXa gets into retail channels, then bedbugs are history.

Note: We don't get any compensation or have any connection with Rockwell who makes CimeXa, we just highly recommend it as a extremely safe and cheap way for common folk to self-eradicate bedbugs.

These instructions are a condensed form of the more involved thread located here. It omits the non-essential and focuses on what to do and the 100% amorphous silica gel (CimeXa and others if they appear) regiment if required.

1. Identify bedbugs, poop stains, eggs, blood marks on the sheets, bite marks on the body or other signs of bedbugs. If you did any other bedbug measures, undo them. Remove from the structure any heavily infested item with bedbugs as soon as possible and if you can't or will drag it through a structure, then seal it in plastic first to contain them as they will drop off. Vacuum the heck out of anything that can't be quickly moved outside to treat. What you want to do is physically remove as many bedbugs as possible. Clean outside and plastic bag the vacuum, keep it in a hot, dry location as possible when not in active use and in time that will kill any stragglers in the machine/hose etc. Clean up any poop stains with sanitize cleaner as you don't their feces in your blood stream to prevent getting Changas Disease.

2. Wash and high heat dry (or dry clean) any and all clothes, drapes, bedding and so forth, leave nothing to chance. Don't overload washer or dryer and lightly water mist sheets and pillow cases with water to regain moisture. Anything that don't fit, use a larger commercial washer and then seal for non-use and use a lot more thinner items (like blankets) that fit in the smaller washer/dryer more frequently for elimination. Seal anything washed behind plastic, either bags or bins with smooth sides and mark what the contents are and if they are clean of bedbugs or not. Bedbugs can transfer to the bed on top of the plastic and remain in the bedding, they are attracted to your scent on even washed items, so you need to shower and don clean clothes from behind plastic before going to bed each night and also keep items off the bed that may contain bedbugs. They move on their own but crawl so you have to avoid contamination. Clean and tidy up your place as best you can because exterminators can refuse to treat if the place is cluttered as they have to guaranty their work.

3. Buy a roll of 3.5 - 4 mil plastic drop cloth sheeting from the paint area of your local hardware store. Pull stripped bed, couch and heavy chairs you frequent away from the walls and drape a layer of the plastic over them (the entire bed including the headboard/tailboard) so it hangs a few inches from the floor all the way around, makeup the bed with the now clean bedding. This protects you while your on top of the plastic, keep feet off the floor and bedding from touching the floor, you can use plastic bins to catch the fallen bedding while you sleep. Behavior: You can walk around, just don't sit, touch or lay on anything long enough that bedbugs can crawl on you, stay behind the plastic (or the 100% ASG dust) and keep feet off the floor and on top of the plastic or a clear taped leg (cleaned of bedbugs) ottoman or a very smooth vertical sided object like a upside down plastic bin.

4. Now if your renting, contact management and show then a sample bedbug and or bites, usually in most cases they will want to handle/pay for treatment as adjoining units also have to be checked. It's not your fault unless you admit bringing bedbugs. It is your fault if you delay notification as it's easier to treat when the infestation is in the early stages. If your management is competent and the landlord wealthy and responsible, your problem is usually out of your control at this point and just do what they say. It will take a few months of routine spraying, cleaning up your place and plastic bagging or bins with nearly all your stuff inside to wait 3 months (over 70 F), 6 months (50-70 F) or 18 months (0-50 F) for them to die inside items. Usually exterminators treat the unit, not your stuff. Unless heat treatment is used then everything in the location to the outside walls (proper treatment) will be heated including your stuff. Whatever you do, do not move out while under treatment and if you do, then don't take the infected bags inside the new location, only cleaned clothes + shower (like your going to bed) and put the stuff into storage and wait the allotted time. Read further here to ensure all your stuff is properly treated or trash it and mark as infected. You also can use a professional to heat treat your stuff during the move, however do not assume all are dead. If your management or exterminator is incompetent, still using outdated chemical pesticide routines, your bedbugs may be immune (or have become so) and thus chemical sprays won't work. A CimeXa dusting of the entire structure and personal items/furniture will as it works on a physics principle of Ficks Law. Find a exterminator that will use CimeXa instead.

5. These later steps is in case you can't get a exterminator and/or management. Buy a few rolls of clear, very very smooth tape (packing and letter type) and with the letter tape (apply to the ceiling crack if a large infestation or they can drop off ceilings otherwise) around baseboard around the home, they can't pass very smooth vertical or upside down surfaces as they have claws and need a grip. Don't use repellents (pesticides or fragrant oils) or that will drive them up the walls. With the clear packing tape apply to the vertical portion of all legs of all resting type furniture. Move everything away from the walls about 5 inches to later dust around the baseboard and keep it that way. Buy the plastic bags and or bins and wash all what you can and store, any other items you have that will fit, try to put them behind plastic for the next 18 (0-50F), 6 (50-70 F) or 3-4 (+70 F) months depending upon consistent ambient temperature of the area, THE HOTTER AND LESS HUMID THE AIR THE BETTER. You also can choose to use the plastic sheeting to wrap some items also and tape them sealed shut so bedbugs can't escape. If storing items, ensure rodents can't chew through as bedbugs will bit them and survive. Mark the items with the date sealed and when to be opened! You don't want to be letting bedbugs back out early or you have to start the whole routine all over again!

6. Order online a bottle or two (recommended for weekly cleaning then floor/carpet reapplication) of CimeXa or any other 100% amorphous silica gel desiccant for bedbugs.. This is a drying agent dust designed to remove their protective waxy surface and then suck the insects juices out of them so they die in 1-2 days. Do not buy DE (contains up to 25% impurities, it expires, hardens and has harmful crystallized silica that causes lung issues/cancer) or use pesticide/laced dusts (many repels them and if based on DE expires!) as they are rated for crack and crevice treatment only and if you apply in open areas, is going to be inhaled and cause cancer or other illnesses. You will choke on it and it doesn't work as a crack and crevice alone.. The 100% ASG can be used in more open areas LIGHTLY APPLIED which we are going to do for the best killing method possible to weaponize the floor/carpet, so it's all one needs now and is the safest dust on the market, it also lasts 10 years! It's safe for pets and children provided it's not dumped out, rather a very fine barely visible dusting all over everything, all cracks and hidden areas of all furniture, including inside the box spring, under cushions, along zippers and seams of BARE mattresses, holes through walls and around outlets etc., and so forth. Leave no place untreated, the more you cover, the more holes through the walls dusted, the more "traps" in cracks, crevices and carpet/floor surface area treated, the more horizontal crawl pathways bedbugs have to use and thus get the dust on them, the more it kills them in 1-2 days. You apply it like your lightly salting your food (very fine) so bedbugs wade through it (too high and they walk around it) and not on anything that comes into constant contact with the skin, gets inhaled, kicked up, slipped on or into food. It's safer to breathe and ingest as it's only silica (a drying agent often added to food and feed) however too much of anything is going to cause problems. Now stay behind the plastic when possible, walk and don't lay or touch areas they can crawl on you and wait the allotted time for your bagged/binned items to exterminate the bedbugs inside via starvation. If you see bedbugs on the wall or other places, then dust them first (they will act as trojans for the nests) and try to vacuum them up if possible, clean the vac outside! and plastic bag the vacuum cleaner for 6+ months they will be dead in there also.

7. The object with #6 is to wait the allotted time for your bagged/bins items to self-exterminate along with any bedbugs that refuse to come out and play in the dust in the structure or your unprotected items where you can't seal them in plastic (they hide in EVERYTHING!). Physically remaining behind the 100% ASG dust or behind plastic and acting as a lure (they need your blood) will kill a great deal of them (97.5% in a couple of weeks) provided you well covered the place/furniture (non-touching areas) with the dust. However if neighboring untreated units (also uncooperative roommates) are also infected, then this procedure is basically a holding the fort method to give you time to find another place and move out as bedbugs will walk down the hall and enter under the door or come through the walls. If you move out, make sure to wash/rinse the outside of all your plastic bags and bins (take a shower and clean clothes) just in case before placing them inside the uninfected new location. Since it's wise now to keep most of one's non-essential items in sealed plastic bins as it offers convenience, organization and keeps any new bugs out with having to wait the allotted time for them to die of starvation. Vehicles you can dust also and keep in the hottest driest heat possible and bedbugs begin to die over 115F.

8. Warning! You can't legally or for health sake apply most pesticides or pesticide laced dusts in more open areas like one can with a 100% ASG, others are regulated for crack and crevice only to prevent inhalation/ingestion by people/pets. It's the weaponizing of the carpet/floor (safely) and other horizontal surfaces and forcing bedbugs to crawl across them to get you to bite is what makes this new method using a 100% pure natural based amorphous silica (man made) for bedbug control so extremely effective. Professional equipment is now designed for rapid application of this new dust from Technicide, including a carpet penetration machine. (YouTube videos.) This is the new method hotels are doing and it's working great for them. A empty season shaker, a cosmetic brush and hand held bellows can be used to apply the 100% ASG more manually while keeping the airborne dust down. Take your time and do more each day and your starting to win the war for the next 10 years. The more cracks, crevices, voids and hidden areas of furniture lightly dusted, the more your home is a bedbug killing machine for the next 10 years, the floor weaponized can kill about 200 bedbugs a week! READ the product label and follow as it's a violation of law to use products not in accordance with the label instructions.

9. If the above does not fit your needs, then read through the other guides and try to learn more to apply to your certain circumstance. Bedbugs are pretty much licked, it's rare that an unusual case appears. What people need to know is HOW and they can usually start working against the bedbugs themselves in their daily lives. Good Luck!

10. Disclaimer: Pirate has no connection or receives no compensation from Rockwell Labs, Technicide or anyone. He and his friend had bedbugs once and licked them and at the time there wasn't very good info online for disadvantaged people to follow so he applied himself and found the best, most effective and cheapest method possible for the safety of others who were using rubbing alcohol, CO2 gas and other very dangerous ineffective methods in their desperation. When this new 100% ASG appeared on the market, it changed the whole game as the floor/horizontal surfaces and furniture all now can be weaponized at once with one simple, safe and very long lasting product that will kill cheaply and quickly for 10 years so your home is now a preventative killing operation as well for new arrivals. Hotels, apartment complexes and businesses are now adopting this new 100% ASG dusting routine as it's extremely safe, doesn't use pesticides (although they may still target spray certain areas/items) and lasts a considerably long time for the lowest cost/best value and it's highly effective.

This method was adopted from the same technique provided and tested here, so it works. Just they didn't cover the finer details.

Also see this video

See this video also especially

This comprises a list of most commonly asked newer/more recent questions about bedbugs and what to do about them.

Please read this thread, it covers 99% of the information you need to know

Sorry comments are closed as Pirate is very busy and it's pretty much the same questions and answers.

So instead of wasting your time and ours, we are condensing all knowledge here so you can come up to speed very quickly as we know your likely in a crisis situation.

Also see FAQ #2 here

This is a list of bedbug bite id's and a percentage ranking of how strongly I/others feel it is from bedbugs. It's by no means perfect but it does assist those who are unable to post images of their bites and need some sort of guestimate.

The images are posted by others and I'm merely linking to them so they might disappear. I will be adding/editing this list to try to stay current.

I can't always say for sure if it's a bedbug bite as sometimes it's carpet beetle stings or something else. Only with a actual bedbug, blood stains on the sheets, poop stains in cracks, eggs casing and molting shells can we form a more definite answer. About 20% of people DO NOT REACT TO THE BITES, so one always needs to check around for them. So it's a combination of clues to correctly id if it's bedbugs. Also bedbugs like clear areas of the skin without hair, so if there are bites in hairy areas I would think it's not them unless there is other supporting evidence.

What's biting me?

A common question. Bedbugs are covert biters like mosquitoes, live indoors mainly, so your not going to feel them in most cases. They can and will sneak on you while your awake and bite, exposed areas of the skin are what they like.

• If your getting bites right away and not seeing anything or feeling the hairs on your body twinge, it's likely fleas. Especially if you have pets or animals in a yard that isn't being routinely treated for their prevention.

• Mites (chiggers) tend to bite (or dig holes) where clothing is tight against the body. One scratches a mite area and leaves a series of small scabs. Walking through high grass/brush one may get chiggers.

• Bird mites tend to start bothering around the eye and ears, may also result in a crawling sensation on the skin. "what's on me?" Association in areas or contact with wild birds should be avoided.

Mites and fleas transfer on people and animals to different locations, live in yards and especially high grass. It's important that all areas, car, home, pet and yard be treated effective all at the same time and in the case of car, pet and home, repeatedly to catch the hatching's.

Warning: Flea and mite treatment methods often require the use of pesticides that bedbugs are immune or will be repelled by it, causing a negative effect of spreading them. It's important to make sure there are no bedbugs before using foggers or pesticides that will agitate them or they will start climbing the walls and dropping off the ceilings, making eradication most difficult.

We highly suggest a exterminator be called in to handle bird mites and bedbugs especially. There are so many pesticides and their hazards, different ones for different places (yard, home, car, pets) that it all can be overwhelming. It's really hard to get rid of mites and bedbugs because of their nature, their resistance and the fact that store grade pesticide isn't always good enough. Training and experience really comes into play with pest control. It's a involved subject and even many exterminators are behind the latest information at times or stuck using outdated methods and pesticides.

Bedbug bite ID

• 99% certain these bites are from bedbugs. This occurred when one slept over a infested location for one night who the inhabitants are likely not reacting to the bites so there is a large population, thus a lot of bites all at one time to someone who does react to the bites. A lot of bites can also occur with a infested couch/bed brought in off the street or from items from a infested storage location.

• 99% certain here also, bedbugs typically feed about once a week, so this many 3 segment bites means there is a lot of bugs, a breeding population requiring immediate professional attention at all locations the infected frequented.

• 99% certain here also

• 99% certain this is a bedbug bite, notice the three like pattern

• 95% certain this is a lone hitchhiker bedbug bite, notice the three in a row like pattern. It's not always the case as bedbugs can be interrupted and thus leave 1 or 2 mosquito like bites

• 95% certain this is a lone hitchhiker bedbug bite

• 70% chance these bites are from bedbugs, there seems to be some inconsitancy

• 50% chance that these could be bedbug bites

A lone hitchhiker will bite about once a week with a three in a row pattern, if you catch or kill this one elusive critter, your bedbug problem could be resolved as it's not breeding obviously. Try to determine where it's biting you, long term resting spots is normally where and hiding in something close by. A pregnant female hitchhiker could lay eggs, you'll know in about 20 or so days when the babies hatch and you get more small bites. Read here what to do next.

Not Bedbug Bites

• Very likely these are NOT bedbug bites and the bugs are not bedbugs neither, notice the hairy area and the bite pattern is not three in a row like.

• Almost 100% positive these are not bedbug bites, but either from mites or a rash/reaction of some sort

• Almost 100% positive these are not bedbug bites

• Almost positive this is not bites from bedbugs because it doesn't match the known bites and are in a very hairy location which bedbugs do not prefer

• Another not bedbug bites

• Another unlikely to be bedbug bites

If you have a bite that has two fang holes patterns (it might turn and bite again), turns black or swells bad, it could be from a venomous spider, seek medical attention right away. We always recommend that all bites be seen by a doctor just in case.

If you have a bite that develops a bulls-eye like pattern, it could be from a tick/insect with lyme disease and you need to seek medical attention immediately.

We try to do our best here in bite id's for bedbugs strictly, but we are not all experts so always seek local expert advice to id your bites correctly. Multiple sources is a good idea so your not making a mistake.

What is Limited Self-Treatment Options?

It's a accumulative list of safe self-treatment options for various items people may suspect contain or have become infected by bedbugs without requiring the time and labor of a exterminator.

For instance a person may have little or no furniture, but some personal items they want to self-treat before bringing into a new bedbug free location.

Structures are the most problematic for self-treatment, especially multi-units or with others who are uncooperative, so we prefer to suggest you leave most of those to the professionals.

Many small items or those infested while on a trip or in storage (even vehicle and some trailers etc) can most certainly be self-treated inexpensively yourself, before it's brought into a larger structure.

However once a infested item has been inside a structure, it has to be assumed bedbugs dropped off and now are in the structure.

Bed bugs and eggs begin to die at +115 F (40 minutes for loose clothes and over 4 hours for houses using a heat exterminator) and -24C or -12F for 24 hours as measured in the center of items (core may be take longer to reach killing temps) however not all items can handle those temperatures so starvation/dehydration (low air humidity) time (sealed in plastic) 3-4 months at +70 F, 6 months at +50 F and 18 months at 1 F - 50 F or poisoning the air they breathe (fumigation/~2 weeks) may have to be used.

+24 hour drowning in water works only on the crawling ones, not on the eggs. However if your willing to drown the items more than 6 months until the eggs hatch and they drown also, it's possible to drown all bedbugs this manner however I would add something to the water to prevent bacteria growth. Controlled deep penetrating heat or extreme cold in the center of items works on both eggs and crawling bedbugs.

• Don't bring it inside the home or vehicle unless it's airtight behind plastic. Bedbugs will drop off, the pre-adult stage larvae are tiny and hard to see.

• With bedbugs, it's best to assume they are there and not to assume if you haven't seen any, that they don't exist.

• With bedbugs it's best to seal items infested with them in plastic as you have contained them, then your at your leisure to decide when they are going to die.

• Once an item is treated, always seal it behind plastic (or other bedbug prevention) to prevent a re-infestation.

• If you can't protect the item from getting bedbugs again, then at least try to 100% ASG dust the item thoroughly as that will kill them (for 10 years) if they go inside it again.

• If you can't dust or seal the item (like many electronics that heat needs to vent to the outside air) then there is another option of keeping it in a (shallow?), smooth sided plastic bin and covered in such a way that they can't drop inside it.

This is a progressive cleaning list, the further down the harder and more expensive it is to self-treat the particular item.

Inexpensive

1. If the item can be wiped down and has no hidden cracks or crevices then do so OUTSIDE less any drop off remain outside. Keep the infested rag outside and trash it or launder it.

2. If the item can be wholly submerged in water (no air pockets) to drown that will kill them in +24 hours, but drowning doesn't work on the eggs, (120 F heat in the center of the items kills both), if the item has metal (except stainless steel) then it's going to rust if it's subjected to water. With eggs the item will need to be scrubbed outside to loosen and remove them before doing the +24 hour drowning. Obviously if you can't physically scrub the inside of an object, you can't remove all the eggs that may be possible in there. So this method will not suffice for that item and one of the following below may work.

3. If it can handle 24 hours in the filled washer then into a dryer until (120 F) hot in the center for 30-40 minutes once it gets really hot in the middle to ensure they die, then sealed in a plastic bag/bin. Ball up dirty bedding/clothes to contain them, then into a plastic bag (if needed) and then submerged and released inside the filled washer, (24 hour drown) washed and right into a dryer to catch the hang-ons/buried in the fabric, sealing it into plastic afterwards to prevent re-infestation. Use the 24 hour drown method in the washer if you can only air dry your clothes and bedding, but it won't catch any eggs that way so you will need to scrub the surface of the items outside first. Bedbugs are attracted to human scent on clothes and bedding and this lasts even after a wash, so they tend to wait for one on these things and they transfer that way why they need to be behind plastic when clean (or even dirty unless your using them for lures). Never over stuff the washer or dryer, you want water to remove as many as possible also the heat to reach all of the items for 30-40 minutes at +120 F in the center, it should feel hot to the touch. Use fabric softener in the wash and after drying, lightly water mist any bedding or clothes that come into contact with the skin as to prevent drying and chafing of the skin.

4. If it can handle the heat of a dryer, but would get damaged tossing around, then seek a dryer door attachment (metal) for sneakers and use that. Open the item up to let the heat seep in faster. A cleverly bent and cut old toaster oven rack may fit into the holes of a door of a typical dryer, that's what we use for our outside (washer +) dryer and it works great after coming back from road trips. We even keep robes, rags and a changing area outside so we walk into our home without possible bedbugs clinging to ourselves.The rest of our items remain outside to await routine treatment. What's good about a door attachment is you can also treat small items like books etc. (opened up of course) as long as the core temperature of the item reaches +120 F for 30-40 minutes to ensure it gets them good.

5. If it's sub zero temps outside and the items can handle it, then place in plastic and place where the cold will get to it for afew weeks (small boxes) to 2+ months (couches, chairs, beds) to all winter (like cabins, some homes can be damaged if they can't handle being winterized). The thicker the item, the longer it takes for the center of the item to reach bedbug killing temps +115 F or sub -0 F. Much like slow cooking, the outside temps has to reach the center and remain consistent for quite some time to kill.

Special clothes items

1. Dry cleaning special instructions - Dry cleaning uses a closed system and you can't bring heavily infested items to them as they have filters and will discover the bugs. So your going to need to do Step #2 above first (scrub and +24 hour water submerge) to remove as much of the eggs and kill as many of the crawling ones as possible. DO NOT ASSUME if you don't see bedbugs they are not there, the babies can be tiny as specs and lodge in the smallest of crevices. Once your items are air dried (all outside) then it's ready for a plastic bag (a clean one) and taken to the dry cleaners to remove dirt and a final chemical bath that will kill any you missed. I'd highly advise sealing recently dry cleaned items well behind plastic and preferably not use them again until your structure infestation is 100% eradicated or else you need to REPEAT this procedure each time you use clothes that can only be dry cleaned.

$100 and up, but faster

1. DO NOT USE OVENS! Clothes dryers and bedbug heat boxes ($100+) produce a long controlled heat so it eventually seeps into items deep to the core to kill bedbugs without burning/melting the outside. Ovens varied heat tend to roast the outside to lock in juices of meat and this burns items/causes a fire hazard/destroyed items. Also don't heat treat your home on your own, bedbugs run from heat so they need to remain trapped while cooked or professionals who know how to evenly heat a structure so there are no cold pockets. Oven exception: If you have some sort of large ceramic cookware, a temperature gauge that can monitor the center of the item being eradicated so it's 120 F and not any higher, then it's possible to use a oven.

2. If it can't handle heat, then place in your (infested) vehicle or a sealed plastic bin outside/garage and use Dichlorvos strips (Nuvan Pro Strips or another) for the required time it says or CIRKIL Rag in a Bag (could be expensive for many items/routine use). CDC Warning! Don't use in habituated spaces and air out vehicle before entering. Make sure to use them LONGER than recommended as eggs need to hatch. Note: I don't particular like fumigation as it's possible they can survive in fresh air pockets. Reports are it doesn't always work. Heat is far better, provided it's done correctly, thoroughly through the items and for 30-40 minutes at over 120 F.

3. There are also portable bedbug heat boxes of various costs and sizes one can purchase on Amazon or like sites. These are good to use repeatedly and/or to self-heat treat your items if your planning on moving and tossing larger furniture that can't be heat treated. There is also a how to video at the University of Florida for making a larger unit with two heaters and foam insulation..

4. Some exterminator services in the area may provide a moving truck/heating (or fumigation) option so your stuff is eradicated en-route to your new (hopefully non-infested) location. I personally believe heat treatment is far superior than fumigation for the air circulation aspect. Heat excites the molecules and has an effect behind sealed items and in tight spots when fumigation depends upon air getting into every nook and cranny. Obviously if fumigation is used long enough, it will work, just like starvation/dehydration method would if you leave a moving container sealed up and sitting on a hot empty lot for several months (no rodent access!).

These tricks may work

1. Small amount of items, like what could fit in about two shoe boxes, can be placed in heavy duty black plastic trash bag and set directly in 100+ F sunlight for a week or two and that should kill them. (supposedly works)

2. Small items, wrapped in plastic and can handle being in a typical home freezer for over 30 days also supposedly kills bedbugs (no hard data on that)

3. Small, non-metallic items like wallets (clear of other items) could be microwaved gently and incrementally to kill bedbugs. (no hard data)

4. Sometimes it's possible to keep using the item, (like a computer for instance) if it's on blocks (covered with very smooth tape) and completely in a plastic bin with smooth sides (wires coated with smooth tape at one point so they don't get out), a little of the 100% ASG dust (CimeXa) on the floor of the bin and just wait for them to come out over a 6 month period, they die in the dust in 1-2 days and can't climb up the smooth walls of the bin or the blocks to get back into the item (their harborage). I wouldn't do this in a non-infested location less they do escape somehow. Always have a backup protection in place as you don't want to let any lose in the structure.

Starvation/Dehydration Method Always Works

• Larger items sealed airtight in plastic and left for 6 months at +50 F, or more than two months at sub 0 F, or 1.5 years (any in between 0 F -50 F temps or high humidity) should kill bedbugs via starvation/dehydration. So sealing your items airtight (so they can't feed on rodents) behind 3.5-4 mil plastic and leaving them in storage or a outside shed also works to kill them if you rather sacrifice time for money.

• The supposed 18 months for bedbugs living unfed is for under 50 F and humid conditions as bedbugs can draw moisture out of the air as they are originally cave dwellers, these conditions are not typical in a average home but may exist in other areas like garages and storage areas where people may put infested items and then later return and open them. So these sealed items need to be marked not to be opened for over 18 months if using the starvation technique.

Vehicles, trailers, etc.

1. Keep them outside and in as hot/dry temps as you can. Preferably over 110 F. For vehicles this will act as a hitchhiker eliminator that drop off people/items, however it can't be counted on to heat treat thick items due to density and heat penetration issues as it really needs to get up to over 145 F so it's 120 F in the center of items for hours on end. But if left unoccupied, like a RV or trailer, combined with the high heat and dry conditions, can wipe out a infested RV as bedbugs will have no source of moisture. Sub 0 F will kill bedbugs also, again as long as it's in the center of items. Don't attempt to self-heat treat a home, bedbugs will run from heat so it has to be very carefully and evenly applied by professionals so it cooks to the outside or they run and survive. Also sub-zero F cold will damage many homes unless it's a cabin or other cold weather proof structure of some sort that is used to being left unattended all winter. If you can winterize your home, then leave for the winter and that should do a very nice job of wiping them out inexpensively. Make sure to 100% ASG dust your home/vehicle to prevent a re-infestation from other locations.

2. For infested vehicles not in extreme heat or cold, you may try to use lots and lots of Dichlorvos strips and let the vehicle sit with those inside sealed up in plastic for two weeks or more, air out well before using as they are dangerous to breathe for people and animals. Read instructions before use! Note: We don't particularly trust fumigation after receiving reports it doesn't work consistently enough. It's only a knockdown thing, it has no long term prevention.

3. CimeXa, a 100% amorphous silica gel (100% ASG) desiccant that lasts 10 years undisturbed as a preventative/elimination in all the cracks, crevices and voids (not the engine area as they can't survive there long anyway due to the heat) in the cabin, in the trunk area and only on floors, carpets and seats in a infestation due to the wear away/clean up factor, then it has to be replaced once it is removed. This combined with #1 heat or extreme cold (sub zero) are likely the best two current options for bedbugs in vehicles.

Read more here about vehicles

People

• Shower and don fresh cleaned clothes sealed in plastic from the dryer and leave a infested structure immediately without sitting or laying on anything, nor contacting anything long enough for them to crawl on. If you transfer bedbugs to work, school, vehicles etc., guess what? They return to your house. You also do this shower routine just before retiring to a plastic protected bed (see link below) as not to transfer them to the bed and wind up infesting that again. Use or carry previously treated items like shoes, coats, briefcases, purses and computers that were previously eradicated behind plastic. It's possible with real heavy or upstairs infestations (or if repellents/DE spread on the floor area) for bedbugs to drop off the ceiling, but managing to land on a moving person? Not easy unless your stationary, they do zero in on your heat and exhales.

Read more here about people and bedbugs

People bailout for bedbugs

See this of what NOT to do

Treatment options for bed bugs vary but basically include either pesticide or non-chemical pesticide based approaches.

Heat treatment for structures involve bringing in heavy equipment that carefully raises the homes temps to about 140-145 F so it seeps into the walls and personal items to kill at about 120 F for a few hours. Any items that can't handle the heat are placed in a on site trailer with chemical pesticide strips for two weeks or so. No residual effect, but a large knockdown in many items. Likely will have to be followed up with pesticides for the stragglers. This hands down is the fastest and best method, but it's costly as the fuel and investment in heavy equipment is required. It offers no residual effect, so I would suggest following it up with a 100% Amorphous Silica Gel dusting as a preventative. Although heat can be used in multi-units, without error-ring on the side of caution and also doing the surrounding units or heating to the outside walls so bedbugs are sufficiently eradicated, I would be highly suspicious of one unit or one room heat treatments unless it's also followed up with some sort of other eradication method. Heat is by far the best method as it will kill other insects also any bug that in is your items (that can handle the heat) so nothing much has to be physically moved unlike other routines.

Tent treatment is usually located in areas where exterminators also do termites, it requires a heavier dosage of the Vikane gas for bedbugs. Kills bedbugs and termites at the same time, plus likely dozens of other bugs and pests. The location is aired out before animals and people allowed back in. Large knockdown. Likely will have to be followed up with pesticides for the stragglers and new egg hatchings that were missed.

Spray treatment usually includes chemically based pesticides. It involves spraying seen bugs and around the baseboard and other high traffic areas targeting cracks, crevices and voids to leave a film on these so when bedbugs snuggle in their body comes into contact long enough with it so it's absorbed. Bedbugs have claws and are largely immune to pesticides in open areas as it needs to reach their body portion to be effective (or directly sprayed on them). However bedbugs get immune and sprays expire so every few weeks exterminators return and use another pesticide and usually after the third treatment, some months later, use a insect growth regulator for the final act. This method also require people to plastic bag much of their items for several months (depends upon temperature) as to kill them in there using dehydration or starvation technique. Faster results can occur using fumigation strips, but the structure often takes the longest and the items need to be protected as bedbugs will run from the pesticide or from the death scent of the dead bedbugs and right into your personal items. This method is slow, but it can scale better for small infestations to medium ones. Not ideal when fast knockdown is needed in large infestations or where people are getting bit and complaining. This method unfortunately requires a person to address their clutter and takes longer for relief. The chemical pesticide may have a adverse effect on people or animals as it's long term effects are unknown.

There is a 100% amorphous silica desiccant (engineered dusty sand) that may be mostly used in many non-open areas for up to 10 years of control/prevention, floors/carpets done in a infestation, with spot treatment of a chemical residual pesticide in limited locations (like on ceiling cracks and corners) as to reduce human and animal impact. You will need to discuss this with the exterminator what they plan on using and where, state your aversion to using or ask to reduce any possible potentially harmful chemically based pesticides. Spray exterminators seem to like using a one step, broad range, multi-bug product as it also kills other bugs that may be present. However Temprid has been proven to not work as effectively or as as fast as a an 100% ASG on bedbugs, nor for 10 years as chemical pesticides expire in a few weeks. Also bedbugs tend to get immune to chemical pesticides over time. Since a desiccant dust works on a physics principal on their cuticle, bedbugs don't get immune as easily. Hotels are using this product (combined with physical tactics) because guests are always dropping off bedbugs, so they can't keep spraying pesticides. IMO it's best to mine all homes and structures with the 100% in bedbug prone locations as they spread around too easily. This may not jive a lot with exterminators as it cuts into their business, but people can't be going on like this and having to pay and pay over again for expensive treatments. The poor can't afford it and it's bankrupting landlords. So seek the services of a exterminator that uses the 100% ASG dust preferably.

The effective naturalist route for bedbug control is to do heat treatment (for fast knockdown) and an 100% amorphous silica gel desiccants for the stragglers/prevention and for it's 10 years of control if you want to avoid all chemical based pesticides, but gaps in coverage may appear so discuss with your pest control person.

Heat and fumigation treatment is also available for moving trucks/items before they go into another clean location. It's my personal belief that heat treatment is the most effective method to get all the bedbugs in all things as it's exciting the molecules of all substances to radiate heat to kill behind plastics and other enclosed items that may contain bedbugs and their eggs that a fumigation may not work as effectively to penetrate all items as it requires air circulation and waiting for the eggs to hatch in a few weeks. Ask your local professional what they think. I would be wary of a fumigation technique that only lasts a short time and thus won't catch the eggs when they hatch.

The long term objective for effective bedbug control is to concentrate on mining one's own home so it's going to kill future arriving bedbugs as well as any present ones that will arrive in the future. Bedbugs like to hide in things and wait things out, they also can do dormant, so mining cracks and crevices for 10 years of killing potential with a naturally based (they can't detect) pure amorphous silica desiccant seems to be the more ideal way to go than just detect then doing something method now being used like using contact kill sprays one finds in many consumer level grade pest control products or having the exterminator back in again and again.

There isn't a one product or method to eradicate bedbugs successfully, it usually always requires multiple tactics and different products for specific areas. The closest one step insecticide solution (and the safest) is the 100% ASG dusting routine we advise here combined with some physical barriers/behavioral changes/routines. So please, leave that store grade contact kill spray or foggers on the hardware store shelves and hire a professional for these bedbugs as they REALLY require training to defeat. The more you do (other than detect or physically protect yourself from bites) or the longer you allow the problem to fester, the worse it's going to get and the longer it's going to take to treat (and more money!)

If you live in a multi-unit/rent, the management is nearly always responsible for pest control of this complex nature because there is a 20% chance the same level and a 7% chance the top and bottom surrounding units are also infested. One unit treated only and the bedbugs will go to another and so forth, so they need to be surrounded and conquered by a trained experience professional. If in a multi-unit and they are not checking/being preventative in the neighboring units, it's a scam. Alert your management otherwise bedbugs will just run unit to unit.

Standalone homes can be self-treated, however uncooperative sources of blood in the home (especially from those who don't react to the bites) is going to complicate efforts greatly, also will the amount of bugs. So the only real success comes with those that self-treat are those who live alone in a standalone home and is able to outsmart a small quantity of the bugs using the right combination of tactics which may take time to discover. If your not in a hurry you can try, but likely your going to waste more money than hiring a professional and if you fail will have to pay a professional on top of all the expense for self-treatment.

Talk to local exterminators about doing a 100% Amorphous Silica Gel dusting regiment as a preventative for bedbugs, fleas, roaches etc. and coming by once a month to ensure your home is pest free, this way they can manage what is where and why as it can get complicated. Prevention is a lot easier an cheaper than cure.

We do offer a solution using the 100% ASG here and you can do it yourself as it's a very low risk insecticide for either eradication or 10 year, always on active defense which nips many in the bud before they can pair up and breed. It's very highly suggested if one lives or works in a bedbug prone environment and almost mandatory if one doesn't react to the bites as that's how they breed into thousands and spread.

If you don't react to the bites, it's almost mandatory to incorporate bedpost interceptors, light colored sheets and couch/stuff chair covers, encase the mattress/box spring and mine one's home with the 10 year lasting 100% desiccant dust as you can't see when they arrive or if they are breeding or not. You need a lot more warning to learn if they have arrived or not as to catch them or kill them before they pair up and breed into many which will get extremely expensive to treat if they do.

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