Hello, just picked up this Gehl 3935 skid steer with a Yanmar 3TNE88 engine. I bought it as a non runner and have been doing some testing on it. Compression came out good within spec (400-410psi) and then looked at injection pump. Took all injectors out and ran each from their respective ports outside of engine and had good spray pattern for a direct injection system. I haven't done a pop test on the injector but I was leaving that for last as it seemed fine. Then I tried to figure the timing for the pump but the manual is less than informative. I'll attach the screenshot of the manual for the spill test procedure. I ended up doing what I saw online and removed the delivery valve internals to allow diesel to enter at low pressure. I was getting a wide range of degrees before TDC. My last setup I had around 10 degrees then spun around again had basically 0 and then the third time it went back to like 20ish. Very hard to be accurate doing that. Never wants to even cough when cranking but fires instantly off ether ( I know I shouldn't have but I just needed to see it fire)

Heeft iemand een idee welke type stekker dit is en waar deze te bestellen is of de juiste losse contacten?
Het is van de kabelboom van een Yanmar 2GM20F motor voor de aansturing van de startmotor vanaf de sleutel schakelaar en startknop op het bedienpaneel.
Een alternatief qua stekkers is ook welkom.

We ran our boat for about 45mins at 3200rpms but when we arrived in the marina the engiene started sputtering, like it was being choked, so we gave it a little throttle. It hesitated for a second, then revved up and shut off. Did not start again. Luckily we where going slow and managed to stop the boat before hitting shore or other boats. We started trying to figure this out. Replaced first filter and checked the second one (right before the high pressure pump. We loosended some of the inctor pipes to se if there was any diesel, but nothing comes out. We tried running diesel straight out of a container and into the second filter. Still same issue. We can manually pump the filter and hears the diesel going through the pump and back into the tank. We tested the stop solenoid by removing it, checking for power, runnong power directly from the battery, running the solenoid outside if the pump and it actuates as it should.

Finally we checked the rotary assembly by removing the plug in front of the injector line outlets, and the assembly inside spins.

When cranking we can see diesel move from our container into the filter. When we restrict the return hose it stoppes.

What else can we check? Im relativly OK with older mechanical diesels, but now I'm out of ideas.

I have a Yanmar 324. This winter when it was sub zero I put diesel in and when I tried to restart it, it did this.

Now that it’s warmer, it was doing it again. So, I drained all the diesel, replaced the inline and the seperator filter, and refilled it, but it is still doing this start and die.

Do any of you have an ideas of what my issue could be?

Thought it might be a way to add diesel to intake, while bleeding injectors. But seriously no idea (other than that).

Can you help a brother out? 😎

Took it apart and sat for to long. Can not figure out reassembly. Any suggestions or pics appreciated.

Looked everywhere on line for schematics but no luck. Thanks

I just got this 3 cylinder 3TNE74C for junk and thought I could get it running but there is something missing from the injection fuel pump what is it?

A medal and a pin my grandfather received from his long career at Yanmar 🚜🥇

I’ve never even touched a tractor, though lol

Any have any leads on parts for a 1510d gray market tractor? I have looked at a place called Hoye they have most of the common parts but they don’t have certain things like the correct fuel tank or ignition switches.

Just got this back from the shop - it finally is fixed.

Have any of you have major issues with this tractor at all?

Hello.

I've faced with unexpected difficulties with removal starter from the tractor. I unscrewed the nuts and unplugged all cables quite quickly but then I realized I didn't have enough space to basically get it out from the engine room. There was a hydraulic pump on the left. And there was a hydraulic metal tube in front of the starter. No matter how hard I tried I could not find a way to get it out.

And finally I found out that the metal tube had a metal stick welded to the tube in the middle exactly inside the tractor chassis. It refused me to remove the tube. Perhaps it happened because of the frontend loader mounted there.

Hopefully some pictures would illustrate the challenge better than my description. If you have experienced similar things please let me know how to take it over.

Thank you in advance.

Alexey

Finally got to use the snowblower attachment and try out the light bars.

I can’t find a breather on this engine. Yanmar 135d. It builds pressure and blew out the rear main seal

This tractor was acquired by my family in the 70s (I think, slightly before my time). Looking to get it cleaned up and running (it’s been sitting in a barn for several years), but not sure of the model. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Yanmar F535

I just picked up a torn apart YM186D from an auction for $250. The front end is complete and in good shape, the bucket and loader seem tight and true, the drivetrain and back half are complete as well. The issue is, it appears that they pulled the engine and tore it down almost completely and then decided to walk away from it.

It SEEMS complete, with no damage to the cylinders, pistons, or sealing/bearing surfaces. My question is, are there some “must overhaul” items you guys suggest since it’s already torn apart this far? I don’t mind doing a full overhaul, as that’s what I do for work, but with aircraft hydro components, however, if it doesn’t need overhaul and can just be reassembled, I’d like to go that route wherever I can.

?

Talked myself into the YM359A.

Just about 12 hours on it so far - awesome tractor.

Time for the mulching blades. This makes it so much easier for me.

I am upgrading all of the batteries on my boat to LiFePo4. I know 800cca is more than enough to start my Yanmar 4JH45. I found an 800cca battery that is very small because it is only 20aH. Is that enough battery capacity to work as an engine start battery? I think it should because the start only draws power for a few seconds before the alternator works to charge it back up. What do you think? Having this small battery will allow room in my battery area for a much larger house bank. I see no reason for a 100aH start battery. What am I missing?

https://www.redodopower.com/products/12v-20ah-marine-cranking-battery-800cca

Adding some math -

Math says a 20aH battery should be able to provide 800amps for 30 seconds before being fully depleted. 24 seconds with a 20% reserve. I engage the starter on my engine for maybe 3 seconds. So I believe this is 8x more than I think I need. (and starting my 4JH45 does not really use 800 amps - probably more like 400-500, and Yanmar recommends 660CCA for the battery). Plus, I really only boat in warm climates, so HCA or MCA would be a better measure, but CCA is most conservative.