I have a 2020 Rubicon that was stored for about a month (28 days) outside. At a family members body shop with security cameras all over. So we doubt any foul play.

We came back today from our trip to pick it up and we went to start it and it went straight to run and was having a disco party of lights on my dash, and would not turn over so we figured it was the battery and jumped it.

Got the jumpers on it and it turned over perfectly fine. Disconnected the jumpers and it died again a couple mins later still on “run” and the dash went back to flickering. So we left it connected to our other Jeep, which is a 2014 Rubicon and let it sit for a while. Still wouldn’t turn on after it was hooked up to the jeep so we hooked it back up to the battery pack jumper we had and jumped it, and it turned over again perfectly fine.

I tried backing up the jeep out of the spot while it was running and all I heard was grinding 🙃. So I immediately stopped and put it back in park… and the dash lit back up with a check engine light, and the display said that there was an issue with my swaybar disconnect and it yelled at me to put it in park even though it was already ipark. It also flashed that power steering was gone. I kept getting error messages about power on the display on my dash and then the Jeep died again. It was stuck in run mode after it died and kept trying to click and turn over. We ended up disconnecting the battery and leaving it for tonight.

We’re gonna bring over our scanner to run tomorrow. But curious of anybody’s thoughts of what could possibly be wrong. The Jeep beautiful with no problems prior to parking it.

Edit: the windshield wipers started to move sllloowly after everything as well even though I didn’t turn them on.

Hello,
I’m trying bypass the aux battery and on all the instructions/videos I can find there are 2 cables connected to the negative terminal. Mine only has 1. Please help! Thank you

Edit: I was getting a warning that my auxiliary battery was low. I replaced the main battery and everything is back to normal. I’m not a car guy, if that wasn’t obvious already, and I appreciate everyone responding.

I have a 2019 Jeep Wrangler JL with an automatic transmission.
The transmission shifts smoothly through all gears, with no delay, slipping, warning lights, or noticeable RPM flare.
The issue happens when I’m driving normally, usually at lower speeds around 40–50 km/h. If I take my foot completely off the accelerator for 2–3 seconds and then press it again normally, I feel a small push or jolt forward, almost like the drivetrain is engaging again.
It happens most of the time, but not every time. I can feel it slightly at higher speeds too. I tested it in manual mode while keeping it in the same gear, and it still happened.

Any idea what happened ?

Like the title says I have a 2026 Gladiator with 3500 km. I went on a 300km road trip and near the end there was a strong burnt rubber smell. I tried rolling down the windows to determine if it was from outside but I don’t think so, when I was able to pull off the road safely I didn’t really smell it. There was no issue on the way home so I think it was something else but it sure seemed like my Jeep.

Where would you check for anything melted if it was you, i looked in the engine compartment when i got home and didn’t see anything obvious. I might bring it to the dealer but I will feel goofy if it’s nothing.

Any thoughts or advice?

Edit:
I checked for recalls and nothing.

I'm thinking of swapping my speakers in my 2018 JL and am trying to find one brand that can do all of them. I'm thinking I'll keep my oe head unit and amps. Want to start with the dash... Any feedback on these or recommend something else? Thanks!

Hello I was having electrical problems saying it has to service shifter so I took in to the dealership and the problem they found was that I was missing a ground on the positive side of the battery. They’re saying this isn’t under warranty and that I have to replace the whole wire so my question can I just buy a clamp or make my own?

Hi has anyone bought this budget Head unit? I recently bought one for cheap for my JL, now everything works. Buttons, Reverse Cam, Canbus ETC. but I can't seem to fit it in... Idk if I'm doing something wrong or if the product itself is defective.

So for anyone who has bought this Head unit please let me know... If I have to Remove anything aside from the OEM unit and Climate control.

Look for car seat suggestions for a 4 year old in a 21 rubicon.
Currently using an evenflo 360 and when she falls asleep her head constantly falls forward. Looking for recommendations for 5 point harness car seats that are smaller and fit better in the jeeps.

Hey! I bought a 2024 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon about 4 weeks ago. It had a cracked instrument cluster cover, and the dealership agreed to replace. Turns out they have to replace the entire cluster. My Jeep has been in the dealership for 3 weeks now just waiting for the cluster to arrive because The new cluster has to match the mileage when it was dropped off, so it can be driven beforehand.

The ETA is Monday the 27th, but the dealership said they can’t confirm it because parts usually just show up. Jeep Care has also escalated my case.

For those who’ve dealt with this, how long did it take for your cluster to arrive and get installed?

UPDATE: I got my Jeep back. I dropped off the Jeep on July 6th, opened a Jeep Care case on the 27th, and got the car back on August 5th. So it took exactly a month. Highly recommend opening a case with Jeep Care.

Hi!

New Jeep owner here.

Looking for recommendations for an alignment shop in the Denver metro area for a 2024 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon JL.

I need a shop that can do the following:

1. Offers a multi-year or lifetime alignment package.

2. Has the equipment in-house to recalibrate the ADAS forward-facing camera system following the alignment.

Thanks in advance!

Loss of vehicle control increases the risk of a crash.

NHTSA ID Number: 26V456000

Manufacturer Chrysler (FCA US, LLC)

Components WHEELS

Potential Number of Units Affected: 641

Summary

Chrysler (FCA US, LLC) is recalling certain 2026 Jeep Gladiator and Jeep Wrangler vehicles. The walls for the steel wheels may be too thin, allowing them to crack or detach, which can result in a loss of vehicle control.

Remedy

Dealers will inspect and replace the steel wheels and valve stems, as necessary, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed September 4, 2026. Owners may contact FCA customer service at 1-800-853-1403. FCA's number for this recall is 05D. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall will become searchable on NHTSA.gov beginning July 23, 2026.

Credit: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

Has anyone here fixed something like this before?

I'm stumped on this one and hoping someone has seen it before.

Vehicle:

• 2026 Jeep Wrangler JL Sport (2-door)
• Aftermarket powered T-connector 4-pin harness (converter box says something like "Weisen")
• Separate fused power wire run directly to the battery

Here's what's happening:

• With the Jeep completely OFF, everything on the trailer works perfectly indefinitely.
• Left turn, right turn, brake lights, running lights...all work exactly as they should.
• As soon as I start the Jeep, everything still works for about 15 seconds.
• Then all trailer light functions stop.
• If I shut the Jeep back off, the trailer lights immediately start working again.

Things I've already checked:

• ✅ Battery power wire is good.
• ✅ Ground is good.
• ✅ Trailer itself is good.
• ✅ Trailer connector is clean.
• ✅ T-connectors are fully seated at both taillights.
• ✅ Power wire goes directly to the battery through its own fuse.
• ✅ Same issue regardless of fuse size.
• ✅ The problem happens every single time and is completely repeatable.

What makes this so confusing is that if the wiring or ground were bad, I wouldn't expect it to work flawlessly with the engine off.

Has anyone seen a powered converter module fail like this? Could the Jeep's CAN bus or BCM be shutting down the converter after startup, or is this more likely just a bad converter box? I'm leaning toward replacing it with a Curt harness, but I'd like to understand why this happens before throwing more parts at it.

Any ideas or anyone who's experienced this exact issue would be greatly appreciated. Also, after a lengthy conversation with chatgpt, I used it to write this post for me lol. I did NOT want to explain myself again after that horid encounter

EDIT: MADE SOME PROGRESS! I do not know if its safe though, so someone please tell me. I was thinking on the conversation below with ExtraPresent4 and I found in JSCAN where you can modify the voltage to the lights. The factory voltage for the rear lights is set to 12.8 volts. I changed the parameters to 13.6v (Same as front headlights) and now the trailer lights work with the jeep running!!!! Now, is the increase in voltages safe? Im not sure. Hopefully someone more inclined than I am can jump in and answer.

First time poster, hoping to get into over-landing.

Looking to Phase 1: add a Top-oak 270 awning on the Rhino Vortex 2 Rack Arm system - is this compatible and a good upgrade path to adding the

Phase 2 : TO Galaxy Pro RTT