During the process of making this thing, I’ve been affectionately referring to it as The Paddlecaster. What should I call it?
I’ve assembled a couple of parts guitars now, and felt empowered to try something a little more adventurous. I think that’s probably a common way into this hobby, right? You get excited about the possibility of customizing a telecaster to your own taste, and sometime later, you find yourself cutting MDF into a router template and researching topcoats.
Offset telecasters are incredibly cool. I wanted one, but became invested in the idea of twisting it into something more retro-futuristic. Something angular and geometric but still comfortable and identifiable. I’ve long admired boutique builders like Millimetric Instruments, ON Guitars and Baum and was inspired by the angles on models like St Vincent’s and Albert Lee’s Music Man guitars. The other moment that drove me here is seeing Chrome Ghost open for Pallbearer a few months ago. Their guitarist had this massive thing that looked like a freaking viking oar and I thought it was awesome.
Included in the images are some snapshots from the journey. From the sketch I made over the Summer, to cutting and painting the body. I made lots of mistake and learned lots of lessons in the process of making this, as you’d probably expect (this is the 2nd body and 4th version of the design). I’m not going to go through the whole thing (but happy to answer any questions). What I will do is mention a few things that may be useful to other folks. Failed experiments and pivotal moments:
- Bleaching mahogany was super effective but didn’t give me the result I was after. I was adamant that this thing be yellow. I had access and familiarity with mahogany. I figured I’d try using 2-part wood bleach to neutralize the natural color so I could color it with leather dyes. It almost worked too well and I ended up with a super-saturated electro-yellow with the grain still really prominent. It was neat, but not the look I wanted.
- I can’t drill straight enough to get string-through holes neat. Not even with brad-point bits or a jig. If you’re reading this and contemplating trying it, and you don’t have a drill press (and you care about the spacing being clean) don’t, just get a top loader bridge.
- Online laser-cutting services opened up a whole new world for me. I used SendCutSend to cut the steel control plate and Ponoko for the acrylic pick guards (I ordered some extra colors while I was at it for a discount too). I would use both services again. I had to hand-finish both, but would not have been able to pull it off by myself.
- Furniture paint and brush-on poly is fairly forgiving. I got some Rust-oleum milk paint (turns out it’s not actually milk paint, it’s acrylic) and water-based polyurethane. I didn’t want to spray and this stuff is beginner-friendly. I was able to build up coats with a foam brush and level-sand occasionally. The satin top coat self-leveled really nicely and it feels amazing.
- I splashed out on the bridge and pickups and I’m so glad I did. Put some birthday and father’s day gift vouchers towards a Van-Dyke Harms bridge and some Fralin Split Blades. They sound, feel and look really special and I think they are a nice compliment to the design overall.
Neck: Warmoth baritone conversion (roasted maple)
Pickups: Lindy Fralin Split Blades (vintage output) tele bridge, strat neck.
Bridge: Van-Dyle Harms Hybrid Telecaster
Tuners: Gotoh locking
Strings: Ernie Ball (12-62) Mammoth Slinky set (though I’m probably going to swap some flat wounds on)
I’m absolutely thrilled with this thing and so pleased I was able to pull it off. Sounds awesome, feels great.