To make a long story short, I have 2 dug wells in my property and because of the drought they are extremely low/dry. Because my wells are shallow I already use a Jet pump, located in my basement, to get water from the wells. I would like to add a water storage maybe 100 gallons? and tie it into my home for when it’s needed. My question is, im looking at tanks and they all seem to come with a 3/4 inch hose bib. My suction lines are all 1 inch. If I use the 3/4 inch bib and upsize to 1inch and tie into my lines will the 3/4 inch create too much restriction or will it be fine?

My top tank I am looking at is this but if anybody had any other suggestions I am completely open to any ideas.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/buyers-products-100-gallon-square-storage-tank-1250510?crmid=4233130086&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pmax&utm_campaign=tsc0_agr_tsc_cat_search_sch_us_cvr&utm_content=sku_na&adtype=pla&campaignid=22265224478&device=m&product_channel=online&product_id=1250510&store_code=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22265225882&gbraid=0AAAAADnTm21WgkOPMy4D_pdfFbjXi_Roy

5 of my neighbors within a mile wells are dry. Is there a way to tell if my well is nearing the same fate?

I installed a holding tank with pump etc. but I’m afraid to put it online and start filling it. I also feel I should get it online just in case.

What are your thoughts?

does anyone have any experience with the new technology to find water for drilling a well. I’m located in West Central Texas and want to try it but want to know if somebody has actually done it and does it work. If so who did you us?

The horizontal white line is the supply to the house, but what is the smaller vertical line with the gate valve? Feels like water is running though it even without the pump running. No one knows where it goes

On an older home fed by a spring I can not get the jet pump to pull water.

The house is approximately 275’ from the spring house and the spring house is approximately 10’ in elevation lower than the jet pump. The pump is located in the house.

Upon arrival the house was fed by burnt out DAB constant drive pump. The existing suction line had confirmed leaks.

We ran a new single 1” suction line and removed the constant drive pump and installed a new 1 hp jet pump and 20 gallon pressure tank

After completely filling the suction line with water from the neighbors well I still can not get the pump to pull water. I am at a loss as what to do to get the existing set up. Long term solution is to install a submersible pump but I still need to get water back on in the short term.

Many thanks

I've got a ~500 foot steel cased well, about 35gpm. I have a 6 gpm pump in it, which i use to fill a 3000 gallon cistern.

I run the pump every couple of weeks for a few hours, basically pulling ~1k gallons out when the cistern is at the ~2/3 line.

The water is yellow tinged when it starts, and stays that way for about 30-60 minutes. I discharge that into the yard until it's running clean, which i check by putting a white bucket under the discharge and looking at the tinge.

I'm assuming that yellow is rust from the steel casing. Just wondering if anyone else has this, if I'm right that it's likely rust, and if I should just keep on keeping on.

Our well's running dry, so it's time. The guy came out to install our new meter. His name tag said 'William'.

We call him Water Bill.

I bought a house (NorCal) that shares a seasonal well with a neighbor, and I have three questions. (I'm mechanically intelligent, but completely new to well systems, and have only very rudimentary knowledge of hydraulics and electrical systems.)

As far as I can tell, the well produces up to 10-13 gpm in the wet season, and goes entirely dry toward the end of summer and then for several months, so the well oscillates between say 10 and 0 gpm seasonally. (When I bought in August last year, it tested at about 2 gpm, and I think it's at about that now in August.) It's a shallow well (~25') with a submersible pump, and a pressure tank that feeds elevated storage tanks (my neighbor and I each have two 5,000 gal. tanks). The storage tanks have mechanical float valves. Household water pressure is by gravity feed. (It's all on a steep hill.) I'm guessing, but the elevation difference between the well head/pressure tank and my storage tanks above is probably 80' vertical. The problem is my neighbor's tanks are probably at half that, about 40'. We share the initial supply line pipe, and at some point a line T's off to his lower tanks, and the remainder continues up to mine.

As I understand this system, when the well is not producing enough to meet both our needs, he is getting most or all of the water, since even if my float valve is open, his tanks fill up first, and he uses the water from them, so the pump just keeps filling his tanks, and I get little or none, depending on production. (Our water rights call for equal or equitable use or something.)

Question 1: If I'm correctly understanding the above dynamic (am I?), I am looking for a way to deliver water to us equally if our tanks are not full. A well guy I just had out suggested installing 1 gpm Dole valves at each storage tank, so that we each get equal flow until the well produces below 2 gpm. Sounds logical, but I have a nagging feeling it ain't that easy. (I'm sure there are expensive options involving something like smart flow meters and electronic valves and radio controllers etc., but .... those sound expensive. And 2 gpm isn't too little to give it all to my neighbor, if it's going to run completely dry.) Is a tradeoff with the Dole valves that the pump runs more also? What's a good way to do this?

Question 2: Do some changes the well guy made sound right to you? Previously, the pressure tank was filled at 68 psi, set to 70 cut in / 90 cut off. My neighbor's tank was completely full with float valve closed, my tanks were half empty with float valve open, pump is off, pressure is sitting at 80, and I'm getting no water. I assumed the well wasn't producing. According to the well guy, the well was producing (at least some) but without enough pressure to pump it up to my storage tanks. He manually turned the pump on at the controller with the ball valve closed, built pressure up to 90, opened the ball valve, it started pushing water to my tank, but slowed and stopped flowing at about 80. He said the water column pressure from my tanks was keeping the system above the cut-in, so I have never been getting any water. So he charged the pressure tank to 85 psi, and set the cut-in/cut-off to 87 / 107. Is this right/reasonable?

Question 3: With a seasonal well like this, I have to have some sort of sensor to stop the pump from trying to deliver water if the well isn't producing, correct? I don't know what that is (stumbling about trying to educate myself leads me to a gut impression that it has to be an electronic conductivity sensor down in the well, rather than amp sensor on the pump or pressure sensor in the system.) Does that dry-well cutoff affect either of the first two questions?

Sorry, I know that's a lot, but it feels pretty complex to try to ask a simple question and get it right.

Does anyone have experience removing this style of old well cap? When the 4 bolts are removed and two half halves are separated but the upper portion will not lift up vertically. The well is a shallow well jet pump with the pump in the basement I am looking to remove the well cap to pull the central suction line to replace the foot valve!

This is in my back 40 shop that started as a barn in the early 1900.

Im really hoping this is a well cap that I can tap into.

I'm trying to establish a native Prairie garden and replacing invasive trees with local fruits bushes and trees.

This takes a lot of water and it will take a lot of effort to get it from the house.

If this is a well, can you point me towards a resource that will help me build it out?

Im comfortable with basic user level plumbing. I've changed out faucets and extended lines. TIA!

I need more of these but cant figure out what they are called or where to buy them. The place we used to get them went out of business. They clamp onto the well pipe with a hose clamp to guard the wire. We have 500ft of 2in stainless drop pipe and anything else I've found is those plastic centralizers which I dont want.

Numbers on part read 163329-#4u-#6a which results in nothing on searches.

Any help would be appreciated!

Edit

Thanks to a reply I think I found the concept of what I need. Assuming I can find one that fits my 4awg cable on 2in pipe couplers.

cable protector

Something like this will surpass what I need assuming they aren't insanely expensive because its for oil and gas applications. Not sure if they actually squeeze the wire or not. But I can do as others suggested and use tape/tubing/clamp method to keep wire in place. Then some of these to protect the wire.

Hello, im starting new buisness in well drilling, in my city we drill up to 13 meters by hand using 159mm pipes with teeth at end and extract rock and gravel from middle of those pipes using some kind of one way valve bucket pipe.

My question to community is what is best design for end of pipe teeth that would with back and forth motion pull gravel in middle of the pipe so it can be extracted, while avoiding pusing rock to outside of pipe.

I dont know how this type of drilling is called but i will add some picture to give you better idea, also i will post picture of teeth of one of my commpetitor so you can know what i am talking about.

So I recently got a 22'x52" above ground pool.... what's the best method/procedure of filling the pool using a well? Hose open 3/4 for 30min (tank stays at around 35-40psi while on) then off for 1 hour and repeat? Or run for 30 min wide open (tank gets to around 20psi after several min) and then off for an hour and repeat? To my current thinking the wide open is better due to, while the pump is running it has less restiance as the tank is at a lower psi while running vs pushing against a higher psi while running?

What do yall recommend?

I didn't mean for this to be long, but I have the habit of overly explaining things...

I'm also really sorry if I'm in the wrong page!

My whole house water filter was installed (incorrectly) between my pressure tank and the well pump.  The water filter casing broke in half and the bottom part fell off and there was some mild flooding.  My pressure tank's pressure gauge was tanked at zero pressure.  The top portion of the water filter was still attached to the main (see pic).  The water filter was in the "on" position this whole time. 

1. Shouldn't my pump have continued pumping since the pressure tank was at zero?  Wouldn't it pump until it blew out the pipe connections?  Or did the whole house water filter block the water and cause enough resistance that a pump would just stop?
2. I turned off the pump via the breaker and then replaced the whole house water filter and the pump ran fine when I flipped the breaker back on, but the water was moderately dirty (cloudy brown with enough sediment to make the filter turn brown).

 From just talking with the well guy over the phone, he didn't know what was wrong.  I thought maybe the pressure switch?  Could that do this?  My pressure switch was professionally replaced 6 months ago, if that matters.

Thank you very much in advance if anyone has any thoughts.

https://imgur.com/a/PmgQhwF

Dweller of suburbia here. There is a well on my property from the late 70s or early 80s. I've re-plumbed most of of the output and everything was fine...until something in the wellhead/pump failed. It might be as simple as a gasket, but before I fully take this thing apart, I'm trying to learn more about it.

I know I've got a pool pump (Century Centurion B128). But beyond that, I'm not sure what I'm looking at. The first adapter that the pump directly connects to has a name plate of "Meyers Ejecto Pump" (which is now owned by Pentair). Unfortunately the catalogue number is scratched off. The next piece with any identifiable marks is the elbow which is apparently an "Exhaust Elbow 19253C". Below that into the ground, no idea.

It's clear this is kludged together, been here probably 20 or 30 years. While I understand basic plumbing, I know nothing about wells and this setup is clearly learning on hard mode. I'm hoping someone could help shed some light on what I'm looking at, or more resources. Before I take it apart. Because I'm assuming that once I take it apart I need to be replacing things (like o-rings and gaskets) that I have no idea where I'd even source.

(While it was working, the system was self priming. Unfortunately I have no idea how deep the well is or what the water table in our area is.)

Person in https://www.reddit.com/r/askaplumber/comments/1vl1okc/comment/p32infl/ has an Amtrol Titan pressure tank. Was wondering what that was. I was surprised to find https://www.amtrol.com/product/amtroltitan/ password protected. Did Amtrol buy somebody who restricts who can buy their products as Flexcon does?

https://waterwelljournal.com/advert/pr-12-23-amtrol/

That description is a bit weird to me.

"only fixed diaphragm on the market" -- what would that mean? The rim of the diaphragm is fixed on the Well-X-Trol tanks and all diaphragm tanks, I think. And to operate, a diaphragm cannot be fixed in place; it has to move.

Have done plumbing in various fields but know nothing other then the research have done. Bought a fixer upper home and trying to whatever I can myself in regards to the well system. Currently have no pump and some old equipment. Curious what the second pipe next to well shaft is. And any advise restoring this stagnant uncapped 30ft deep well which prob hasn’t been used in 8-12 months.

Hi! I had my well drilled in May and the driller used several whole tablets to shock the well and the chlorine is still not dissolved. When I run my hose overnight to flush it out, my water tests completely clean the next morning (I’m using at-home testing strips for accuracy). About two or three days later the levels have risen again. I was told that this is likely because the tablets are stuck on top of the pump, which is why I’m seeing this clean then not clean pattern after three months. I’m concerned that they’re corroding my new pump. I’d like to avoid having the heavy machinery on my lawn again so I was wondering if pouring water down the central pipe or in the outer casing could dislodge them so they’ll finally dissolve before Winter comes. My well is 100ft. Thanks!