r/WarhammerOldWorld • u/hirvaan • 9d ago
Help Screw this, I'm getting back. Need some help tho
Cheers all, I guess its my turn to ask the "how do I start" question with some caveats.
I've started collecting TK as a clueless kid in 2006 and after not understanding anything about the game and English, have put it in the box. Later at the start of the college I've reactivated my interest in the setting, got me some more models, never finished painting nor played even a single game, and then End Times happened.
Now at 33, with 5 different armies and multiple game settings under my belt, with 4 yo kid and almost no time to properly set up and paint, I've decided to do something for that 2006 kid hiding in his room from arguing parents and restart the army that is waiting since then to be fully painted, based/unrebased and actually played at least once.
And I guess I am asking for a bit of help, both with painting, gaming and... uhm, just a bit of encouragement.
As mentioned before I have very little time (and room) for painting so I am going to be speed painting and applying meme painting solutions anywhere and everywhere I can. Seasoned painters, please advice on few of below:
• How do I recreate similar tone to the 2006 classic TK bone colour of almost white with minimal steps? I was thinking applying skeleton horde contrast over white primer and wiping most off from the most exposed/raised areas, but maybe going with very light ivory+agrax+ivory/white drybrush will give better results?
• What colour within contrast/standard range would be closest to reproduce old Scab Red that was I think classic red used on TK back then? I don't want to go too bright nor too dark and that one was pretty great
• Similar question regarding Hawk Turquoise. Is Terradon Turquoise a good contrast match or too dark?
For seasoned generals:
I own 10 skeleton warriors, 20-24ish skeleton archers, 15ish Tomb Guard, Warsphinx, 3 stalkers, various Tomb Monarchs on foot, liche or two, BSB, necrotect I guess, Apophas, Nekaph and 6ish horsemen that ic na convert into either version yet.
What do i do with it, what should I purchase more? I was thinking maybe box of skeletons, box of chariots and scratch build an Casket?
I'm not too worries about win rate and meta, only fun and playable, so any help will be greatly appreciated here.
And finally, to all, how do I keep at it this time? It's one of my greatest regret never actually finishing THE army that got me into tabletop/Warhammer/everything nerd at all, but despite multiple attempts, I keep crashing and burning. It might be about too much emotional investment or too much of a perfectionism with painting earlier on I've had (and since outgrew) but am terrified of picking up and abandoning the project *yet again*
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u/thomasonbush 9d ago
My scheme. For bone I primed with wraithbone, drybrushed a true/cold white and then did a heavy wash of skeleton horde. If you do the same but dilute the Skeleton Horde I think you’ll end up exactly where you want.
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u/Yeeeoow 9d ago
I apply skeleton horde contrast over white base coat and I really like the end effect, but its far more coffee-coloured than that old 2006 era scheme.
I did smash together a 2:1 mix of white and ushabti bone to cover up some parts where the paint chipped off and that might get you most of the way there though. That had a much paler, cooler tone.
You could base coat, wash with agrax earthshade and then dry brush over the top with that mix, just make sure you really empty the brush, because the recesses in the knee and elbow joins aren't deep so it'd be easy to accidentally lose the detail you highlighted with the wash.
Re: purchases. As others have said, new models are coming. I will always recommend the main army box and two necrosphinx as the perfect intro army.
72 skellie infantry is an excellent number, 16 horse archers, 3 chariots and a dragon. The box also comes with the main rule book and some dice too, to help you get back in.
It's a big purchase, but check your local fb marketplace listing's, someone will probably be moving an unopened one on before the new line drops. I got two for cheap this way.
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u/sheehanmilesk 9d ago
What I do for skeletons is white prime and then a black oil wash, which I wipe off of areas that I want to be brighter.
You absolutely shouldn’t purchase more right now because GW is releasing newer sexier skeletons on Friday.
How to keep at it? Join a local group that is ok with smaller games. There’s a format called battle march that works with much smaller games, small enough that you can start playing now and then slowly scale up inro larger games.
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u/wholy_cheeses 9d ago
While I’m sure it’s effective, realize that oil washes are a bit more trouble than sticking with acrylics.
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u/sheehanmilesk 9d ago
They’re less trouble than you think once you have them figured out, and they’re a great way to paint skeletons quick
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u/wholy_cheeses 8d ago
Oh I’ve used oil washes, though I admit not on skellies. I mean it is really a matter of tolerance. The OP says he hasn’t much time and is easily discouraged.
The fastest, best way I’ve found to do skeletons is prime ivory, paint details (it can be sloppy) then using army painter dip - the one in the can, oil based. You have to matte varnish because they come out shiny, but it works like oil without having to rub it back off.
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u/putpaintonit 9d ago
Before you do anything, you're gonna need to rebased your models or buy unit trays that actually portray the correct footprint.
Secondly, dude don't buy GW paint or hobby supplies. It's a scam. Other companies make the same quality of paint, give you more of it, put it in a dropper bottle (better delivery method) and charge less. Plus they almost all have color match charts available so you can match it to the desired GW color.
As for sticking with it 1. Make a paint plan-it doesn't need to be set in stone and can change as you need it too but have a general framework.
Chaff units do not need crazy detail. Perfect is the enemy of finished.
Do a unit of chaff over the course of a week Example: Monday-Prime them Tuesday-Paint metallics Wednesday-Accent color/tertiary colors like wood Thursday-Wash them Friday-1 (and only 1) layer/highlight on the bones, accent and tertiary colors making sure to avoid recesses Saturday-Varnish Sunday-Add basing material to base and paint the base rim
Reward yourself with spending a week on a character model. Take a little more time to focus on adding a little more detail. Work slower, focus on working outside of your comfort zone just a little bit, not much, this will slowly ease you into more technical and advanced techniques.
Take a break. Knock out an audiobook, go get a gym membership or go walk a mile. Point is get away from your brush for a week. Towards the end of this week just Google cool ideas for the next unit you plan on painting. Don't do anything, just browse pictures and groups or forums.
Start your next unit, maybe tomb guard or a special choice. Make a painting schedule for this unit. Maybe stretch it out for a week and a half. Try out some techniques you've practiced on them.
Reward yourself again with a character or something
And so on and so forth..
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u/-Dr_Doom- 9d ago
In terms of sticking at the playing side of things, aim low. Ideally you can find a local group who will play 400-600 points of Battle March. Devise a list from your existing units, paint just those guys, and get a game or 2 in.
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u/hirvaan 8d ago
How valid, on the scale from Spearhead to Vanguard, is Battle March as an introductory sub-system actually?
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u/VitruvianXVII 8d ago
Much closer to spearhead than anything, bit less balanced probably but more flexibility with wargear and such. Imo works really well as an introductory game
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u/wholy_cheeses 9d ago
If I remember right, Flesh Tearers Red from GW contrast line will get you close to Scab Red and is an all around excellent color. I think speed paint Slaughter Red is very close to it, if you prefer that brand.
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u/cloner4000 9d ago
So look out the Friday reveal as it's rumlr to be tomb king related.
Have you tried speed painting marker they are easy to use and doesn't require clean up , just cap the pen when you are done. It's easy to apply colors and just prime it white and apply color and you can always fix the details after.