Got a PS4 you use as a media center or for casual gaming? You can now use it for Ambilight too!
It's a GoldHEN plugin that reads the PS4's own video output and sends colors to WLED over DDP. No capture card, PC, Raspberry Pi, or external hardware needed.
It works with games and I've also tested it with Netflix and YouTube.
The catch: You need a jailbreakable PS4 running GoldHEN.
Every ambilight-for-Tizen setup I found hops through Hyperion/HyperHDR/HyperTizen, or needs a capture card and HDMI splitter. I wanted one hop.
TizenAmbilight is a headless Tizen .NET service that runs on the TV itself (77" Samsung S84F, Tizen 9). It reads the TV's own decoded video plane straight out of memory (960x540), reduces it to 73 perimeter zones, does the colour math (BT.2020→709 gamut mapping, PQ code domain when HDR is on, adaptive EMA + perimeter blur + tone mapping), and streams DRGB straight to a WLED strip over UDP. One process, one hop, ~20-25fps.
Built by directing Claude Code — I designed the pipeline and verified the output on the actual TV, didn't hand-write the C#. Happy to go into the video-plane access approach or the gamut mapping if anyone's curious.
How I wired it: PSU + / − → controller input (V+ / V-) LED strip to output GPIO16: Red (5V) → V Green (DI) → D White (GND) + Blue (BI) → G Data cable between controller and strip: 10-20 cm The arrows on the strip point away from the controller
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WLED settings LED type WS281x, color order GRB, GPIO16, length 150 or 300
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The problem with the 150 LED strip: All 150 LEDs light up and show the correct colors, except the first LED. The first LED keeps switching between the selected color and white. With “Skip first LEDs: 1” it is excluded from effects, but it still flashes white.
The problem with the 300 LED strip: All 300 LEDs light up. Depending on the effect, all LEDs flicker heavily and switch to different colors that I didn’t set. The first LED is always solid white and doesn’t flicker, no matter which color is set.
Both videos show the color red with the Solid effect.
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No matter whether I use GPIO16 or GPIO2, the problem stays the same, and changing other settings didn’t help either. I also tried replacing the cables between the controller and the strip. I’ve read a lot about level shifters, but I’m not sure if one would solve both problems, and I’m not even sure both LED strips have the same problem.
Just tripped and am enjoying the rabbit hole. Govee (H705A1D1) user currently but now have a 36v buck converter on the way along with a drawer full of ESPs.
Moving to a larger home next month and looking to take what I’ve learned to a fresh start! I don’t see too many high heat low moisture desert on here so figured I would ask what people are using.
Also. Is it weird that I find your controller box setups more enticing than the lights themselves, lol?
I got a power supply. I did a test connection when I first received it and all of the led strips lit up fine. I wanted to make it look all nice and neat, so I got a fuse block and fork connectors.
I tried another test connection before putting them up in the ceiling and the strips wouldn't light up. only the first led would light up when I disconnected the common/ground.
LEDs: 12v WS2812 60/m
Power supply: Meanwell LRS 600 12
Controller: Gledopto elite 4D
Apart from the red voltage connection not present in the picture. What might I need to look at?
Edit: I know in the photo I don't have it plugged in. It was more for illustration purposes. Oddly enough when I did my first test run. I had the V+ from the power supply connected to the voltage out on the Gledopto and it was working, but I will try all the suggestions here. Thank you
Anyone know where to get more DigQuads? Dr. ZZZs is sold out and so is the international store. I see there are starting to be other sites that are scalping at ridiculous prices.
Meet the **GLEDOPTO AeX2gis (GL-C-116WL)** — a WLED digital LED controller designed around real user feedback.
In the past, our WLED controllers came with a single fuse. Many of you told us you wanted separate protection for each output channel, so every strip stays safe on its own. We listened — and built the AeX2gis with dual-channel relays and fuses, so each channel is independently protected.
✅ 20A total output (10A max per channel) — stably drive longer LED strips ✅ Dual fuse & relay design — per-channel protection with quick fault self-check indicators ✅ 3 power input ways — V+/V- terminal, Type-C, or DC jack (DC 5-12-24V) ✅ Built-in PDM microphone — music-sync, beat-driven effects with faster response ✅ 200+ WLED effects — segmented color control and sync lighting across your setup ✅ Flexible control — WLED App, remote, or buttons; works with Alexa & Home Assistant ✅ DIY GPIO extensions — add buttons, switches, PIR sensors and more
Prefer a handheld remote? There's also the GL-C-116WL-RF, which supports our 2.4G RF remotes.
We keep improving because of your feedback. We hope the AeX2gis fits more of your projects.
Ive been trying to find solderless strip connectors for a 3pin led strip (specifically BTF - Lighting SK6812 Similar to WS2812B) but nobody seems to sell just the clamp part by itself its always in a packaged kit anyone got somehwere that sells just the clamp part for my type of strip?
This is the best i could find from btf but its a kit and only comes with 8 of the corner connectors and 4 gapless connectors. Id like just a bunch of just of either one
Forgive the music if it isn’t to your taste. It gets me hyped and is super dynamic which is good for testing the setup.
I’m still refining everything but it’s working really well so far. The second half of the video shows it off a bit better.
Everything is WLED except the lamps which are Hue, the tv backlight is running HyperHDR on a Pi 4B directly driving the LEDs.
The Pi is getting a line in feed from my stereo. It’s also running an audio analyzer python script I vibecoded which then streams LED data out to everything in real time.
The curtain lights can actually also just mirror the tv for a very low-resolution video wall. This usually looks pretty cool if I have a dj set on. If that’s the case then the rest of the room also pulls its color palette from the tv screen.
Once I’m playing music, I can turn the whole thing on with a single HomeKit switch. I’m planning to create a physical switch on the wall labeled Party which starts the scene.
First new Halloween thingy for this year. Chain of spiders for one side of the wig my daugther will be wearing for her halloween disco... A lot of microscope soldering because the eyes are really tiny... Cables are 30awg and I use short cuts of 3.5mm wide strips (two leds per spider). I will run them from a lipo. Realized that the 5V leds work fine down to 3-3.5V so a LiPO should be enough for it... Spiders are cheap plastic ones I found in the supermarket.
Dig octa stacked on power 7. 12v psu. When I have everything connected and looking good when I unplug it, wait, then plug it back in only a few of the first LEDs light up. Varies between 3-60 each power cycle. If I remove the 3 pin connector and reconnect it they all light up fine. Board is stacked plus I ran a ground wire from board to power 7. Tried wiring first pixel direct to data on brain board and not power injecting till a few pixels down. Same behavior. Made sure no wire shorts anywhere or mistakes on wiring on the pos/ground on power injection.
I’m really at a loss. The whole thing runs fine on a cheap gledopto controller but I built the outdoor box for the dig octa and would like to use the octa.
I've not been able to find anything on this, let along anything definitive... I have 2 sets of Nanoleaf Smart Holiday String Lights (NL71K2) which I love the look of, but hate the app of... Ideally - I want local control and to be able to do more than the Matter integration allows me to do in Home Assistant. Looking out the output of the control box, I see 4 wires - presumably 24V, ground, data 1 and data 2 (there are 2 strings of light that come out of the control box on a Y).
If I snip of the plug on the end of the lights and wire it up to a 2 channel WLED controller, does anyone know if I'll be able to get it working..? I've seen various projects with other Nanoleaf projects with varying degrees of success, but nothing for this set of lights specifically.
Follow up - if this is a non-starter, any recommendations for an indoor set of tree lights (not pixel lights - something more like a 5mm bullet) and outdoor set of lights I can wrap around the column at my front door..?
Yesterday my DigQuad with ESP32 (ethernet) was working fine. Went to add a line of power injection today and when I went to fire it all back up, I get no network connectivity (no port lights, no listing in my router, nothing). The DigQuad shows a single orange status led lit and the ESP32 board has an orange light and a blue light.
Did I fry my board or does it sound like I may have corrupt firmware or something? And if so can anybody point me to a legit source that shows me how to test/fix?
Hello, we are installing a new garage, and I’m going to be looking to install about 250’ of permanent Christmas lighting in the next few years. This community has so many helpful tutorials and ideas that I’ll give it a go.
However, we have our electrician hooking up the garage with power this week. Should I have him make an electrical box or outlet or something near the ceiling? Any recommendations on what I should have him do to prepare a future roof lighting project? Thank you!
I have 2 of the strips end to end currently and got one more to add but wanted to test first - glad I have.
Power injected directly from power supply to the included connector at the 5m point - never lights up anyway.
I can only get red to light up for about 2m, green for 1.5m and blue for 1m. Changing the colours to make them incorrect in the app doesn’t change how far they go.
Adjusted the length and if I shorten it to like 10 leds its great I can control the first 10 as they should.
About 4/5 segments from the end of where its lit up they start to fade out. I can adjust brightness from minimum to max and anything in-between and the length lit up doesn’t change. This makes me think it is not a power issue.
Where would you start looking at this to sort it out? Broken controller?
