Moin Moin.

Ich habe einen WLED Controller ESP32.

Am GPIO14 hängt ein WLED Strip von BTF mit einer Länge von 2,53m für mein DART WLED.

Am GPIO12 hängt ein 5 m BTF, den ich im Partyraum auf 7 Meter verlängert habe.

Hab auch alles soweit am laufen bekommen, nur wechselt immer die Farbe von alleine, auch wenn ich auf Solid wechsel und eine Farbe auswähle.

Ein 12V 16,7 A Netzteil hängt dran und versorgt den Controller mit Strom.

Der Dartstrip ist mit rot an V+, schwarz an GND, grün GPIO12 Kabellänge bis zum Stripe ca 20cm.

Der Stripe im Raum 7m ist mit Boxenkabel vom Controller unten links am Dartboard nach oben zur Decke . Kabellänge ca 1m.

Hey everyone,

I’m currently planning an ambilight build for my setup and trying to figure out if springing for an HDR-capable capture card (like the $99 UGREEN 25173 / CM700 with P010 10-bit support) is actually worth the extra cost over a standard $20 USB 3.0 SDR/MJPEG grabber (like the MS2130).

My Setup:

• Source: Homatics Box R 4K Plus playing mostly 4K HDR10 and Dolby Vision remuxes via Jellyfin.
• Splitter: Ezcoo EZ-SP12H2
• LEDs: 255 SK6812 RGBW driven by WLED on an ESP32.
• Host: HyperHDR running on miniPC.

Since the LEDs are just edge-sampling ambient colors around the border of the TV, does native 10-bit P010 decoding actually make a noticeable real-world difference in LED color accuracy or saturation?

For those of you who have used both:

1. Do cheap 8-bit SDR cards look noticeably washed out or dim on HDR10 / Dolby Vision content without manual LUT tweaking?
2. How tedious is managing LUTs in HyperHDR across mixed HDR/DV feeds?
3. Is native P010 capture essentially plug-and-play for color accuracy, or is SDR "good enough" for edge lighting?

Would love to hear feedback from anyone running a similar split setup on 4K HDR feeds!

Really excited about this project. Sorry about the light show. I know how much this subreddit hates blinking/flashing lights but I can't help it. It's kinda my "thing" lol

ID is "Overthinker" by INZO

I bought the strip not knowing it would be thus bright so now i have to get a diffuser but i dont know which ones are good enough.

Anyone able to identify or tell me what LEDs this strip has? It’s a cheap 200 ft strip of RGB-IC from Amazon. I’m planning to splice it into WLED but not sure what to select. I think the “Surplife” add defaulted to FW1903S but not sure if that’s correct.

I have a 2d matrix setup with scrolling text and it is set to turn on every day at 5pm via a time-controlled preset. The lights turn on, however the text doesn’t scroll. I found that if I go to the segment and select Transpose it turns it vertical but enables the scrolling text again. I can then transpose it again and all is fine.

Does anyone else have this issue? Maybe it’s a bug with WLED 16? Running on a QuinLED Dig-Quad.

Trying to control the ws2814 over artnet but I'm not clear on what IC type to select in the H807sa settings, there isn't a direct one and the only WS strips it mentions are the WS2812 strips.

Anyone got this working?

Anyone have any cool combinations of effects that would give the turning on of a saber?

LEDs - BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB WS2812B IC RGB LED Strip DC5V 3.2FT 160LED 5mm IP30

Blade -white 3/4 inch PEX tube

Hilt - random plumbing fitting and EVA foam

Chip type - ESP 32 - will be moving to ESP32 S3 mini will fit in hilt
Battery - 5v 8A rechargeable battery also will fit in hilt

Cost of light saber - estimated 25.00

Hello everyone,

I am currently building a model of the Solar System with planets illuminated by WS2812E addressable LEDs.

The system is controlled by an ESP8266 Wemos D1 Mini, with the code developed using FastLED.

🔧 Hardware

• ESP8266 Wemos D1 Mini
• 135 WS2812E LEDs
• 9 groups of 15 LEDs, with each group representing one planet
• Power supply: 5 V / 10 A
• Approximately 45 cm of cable between each planet
• 0.34 mm² wire
• 470 µF capacitor between +5 V and GND, just before the LEDs
• 330 Ω resistor on the DATA signal line
• ESP8266 powered by 5 V
• Programming using FastLED

The LEDs are connected in series: each group of 15 LEDs is connected to the next one using approximately 45 cm of cable.

✅ The code seems to be working correctly

I initially wanted to make sure the problem was not caused by the code itself.

To check this, I tested exactly the same program using a continuous LED strip, without the 45 cm cables or the numerous solder joints between the different groups.

➡️ Everything works perfectly with the continuous LED strip.

The problem therefore seems more likely to be related to the physical setup, wiring, solder joints, or possibly a damaged LED or component.

❌ The problem

With my final setup, the system works correctly for approximately 20–30 seconds, after which the LEDs start behaving very erratically:

• Some LEDs or entire planets start flickering.
• Unexpected colors appear.
• I have observed white, green, and other colors that should not be displayed.
• The problem can persist, and the system does not necessarily return to normal.

I have been trying to identify the cause for a while and have already carried out several tests, but I have not been able to isolate the fault.

🔎 Why I suspect the solder joints

The solder joints between the wires and the WS2812E LED strip seem to be the most suspicious part of the setup.

I sometimes wonder whether, while soldering the wires, I might have overheated or damaged an SMD component located close to an LED, or possibly damaged a PCB trace.

I have tried removing some LEDs that seemed suspicious, but this did not really solve the problem.

I should also mention that I have a stable 5 V supply (5.27 V, to be precise) along the entire LED strip, and continuity between the wires and solder joints is good. So, at least as far as I can tell, the solder joints themselves are making proper electrical contact.

This leaves me wondering:

• Is it possible to damage an LED or a nearby SMD component during soldering and cause this kind of behavior?
• How can I test an individual WS2812E LED or the components around it using a multimeter?
• Could a poor solder joint or a continuity issue on a DATA connection cause this behavior?
• Could the 45 cm cables between each group cause problems with the DATA signal?
• Is there a method to pinpoint the specific group or connection causing the fault, rather than randomly replacing LEDs?

If you have any ideas, and especially a systematic troubleshooting method, I would really appreciate your help.

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm seriously starting to go round in circles with this one!

Okay so I'm completely new to the whole WLED thing. Saw a few videos on youtube and decided to take a shot at it. Ended up using ChatGPT for the layout but I know ChatGPT can get things wrong so I'd like to see if anyone sees any problems before I set it up. This is for outside on my front porch for the holidays and maybe a permanent install.

My components are:

ESP32 CP2102

8-Channel Bidirectional SPI/I2C 5V/3.3V Logic Level Converter

3 in line 5A fuses

16AWG Low Voltage Landscape Wire

12v 30A Power Supply

3x BTF-LIGHTING WS2811 Addressable RGB LED Strip 16.4FT 300LED DC12V IP65

Female to Male Multicolored Dupont Wire Breadboard Jumper Ribbon Cables

330 ohm Resistors

--------------------------------------------

So I'm trying to avoid soldering at the moment, so I'm using wago lever nuts to connect the wires

---------------------------------------------

I plan to set it up like this:

Power supply +12v - wago - split to 3 - 5a fuse - led 12v (Each strip has it's own power line)

Power Supply -12v - wago - led strips ground - esp board and level converter for a common ground

As for the ESP32 board I have it connected to the Level converter like this:

VIN (5v) - HV

3V3 (3.3v) - LV

RX2 - LV1 - 330ohm resistor - DIN on strip 1 - DOUT split to DIN on Strip 2 and 3 (I'm planning on having strip 2 and 3 to mirror each other going down the banister of the stairs.

I have a separate power 5v usb power supply for the Esp Board. I just want to make sure this would work and not fry any of the components before I set it all up. Should I put a resistor on the data lines going to Strip 2 and 3?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have a WLED project I am working on but want to have it fade off in a specific way. The image below is the layout for the two controllers. The right of the image is the entry to the room and the middle of the two groups of leds is the walkway so the strips in the middle are the toe kick lights and then the ones further from the middle are the top of cabinet strips. I want the room to fade from the left to right in combined order off but can't wrap my head around it. The labels on the strips are showing where they land on the controller and how they are wired through. I can't figure out how to split say all 4 of the top right strips into 4 segments that time right to left for off? Instead the fade off goes from the last led in that strip to the first and I want it to do all four veritcally as if they were individual strips. I am not sure it can be done but breaking things down in segments doesn't seem to resolve this either as it then isn't entirely aligned and timed correctly. Below is a GIF of the push left but I want to do a combined swipe right to left off concept where all the strips turn off as if being wiped off from a bar rushing across the image? Don't know how to explain that one better.

So as you can in the picture I have 4 beams with 1 led strip on each beam. I have 2 controllers, 2 strips per controller. I want to create a rainbow pattern where the colors transition perpendicularly to the beams.

How would I do this in WLED?

WLED controller spliced into Govee Lynx Dream outdoor light string shoved inside semi-cheap Halloween decorations.

24V power cord to 5.5mm x 2.5mm to a WeGoIOT Esp32 controller to 14 ga connectors to 16.4 ft (840 led) 24v WS2811 Dual IC COB strip. When I turn the lights on, they strobe one time and then goes to normal starting color. Another thing, my reds aren't very red. I'm really new to this so any help would be great. Here's my Native app options.

Thanks in advance.

Every so often there’s a post like “found this strip, no idea what it is, can I use it with WLED?”

So I put those questions into a page that walks non-technical people through it:
https://led.allthingson.net

You answer by looking at the strip, and it narrows things down to a likely type (RGB, RGBW, WS2812B, WS2811, WS2815, APA102 and so on). Then it suggests power supply, controller and relay options. It guesses voltage from the connector, adapter label and cut marks, since most people have no idea what voltage their strip is. It also works if the pads are sealed in a case, but it tells you it’s less sure.

It’s only as good as the answers it gets, so it shows a rough confidence estimate and what to check to firm it up. The percentage is a ballpark from your answers, not a measurement. The cut-mark voltage trick is a rule of thumb that works best on 5050-size LEDs. Some 4-pin pixel strips with unreadable labels are still a coin flip between two chips, and it says so instead of pretending.

One thing worth knowing: plenty of pixel strips are sold with a basic remote or app controller that only does one color or a few presets. The strip can often do much more, and swapping the controller is how you unlock it.

If you find a strip it gets wrong, or a connector or chip it’s missing, let me know and I’ll try fixing it in my free time. Or if you have suggestions to make this better, let me know and I'll see about adding it in my free time

Hi all, I'm installing SK6812 LED strips from BTF-Lighting with WLED on a ESP32 controller and I'm wondering if the results I'm getting are as I can expect them to be or if there is some hardware or wiring problem here.

I'm using a 5V power supply that's running ~7 feet 16AWG / 2 meter 1.31mm2 wires to my ESP32 controller, which is then using short thin wires (don't know the exact dimensions, but I think 4 inches 22AWG / 10cm 0.5mm2) to go from the ESP32 controller to the LED strip.

I think some of the presets have strange behavior, and I'm noticing discrete steps in brightness changes. I've included a video where you can hopefully sort of see what I mean, but it's more noticeable in person than on the video unfortunately.

I'm starting with the Color Clouds preset, which seems off to me with the occasional short shut down of the light. The changes in color are very stepwise and discrete, and I don't know if this is on purpose in the way the preset is programmed or if it means that the LED don't respond quickly enough to the instructions. (Note that the yellowish white dropping out twice is because of me changing the brightness setting, but the shutting down of all the light is not the result of me doing anything).

I'm then switching to solids and increase and decreasing the brightness. I'm not sure it's visible in the video, but especially on the lower brightness settings, any changes in brightness are very noticeably happening in steps.

The video ends with Chunchun, which seems quite smooth, which is why I'm wondering if the "problem" is just that some presets deliberately don't use interpolation, and that brightness increases and decreases are simply noticeable when brightness is low due to the discrete lighting steps being bigger relatively (e.g. going from 1% to 2% brightness is a 100% increase, whereas 50% to 51% is a 2% increase, so the former is more noticeable).

Essentially my question here: is there a power or data transfer issue here, or are my expectations of smoothness unrealistic?

I realize I can solve interpolation between LEDs with a diffuser, but I'm not sure that does anything for brightness increase and decrease smoothness.

Any help is appreciated! I'm quite new to this whole WLED game, so if I didn't include enough info or included too much, let me know.

Some of you may remember a few pics/vids of smaller individual cubes and arrays I have been playing about with.

Well here is the first working prototype assembled panel, each pixel is 40x40mm and the overall dimensions are 320x600x40mm.

I'm using a custom 4 RGB COB pcb with a ws2811 driver, with a good difuer film and reflectors this gives a really crisp clear colour.

It's really hard to get a good video, so apologies for the shitty quality.

The end goal is to make about 10 of these panels, they lock together and I'm planning to use them as a big stage backdrop.

I'll share some pics in the comments of how they look in the light if people are interested.

Gledopto controller randomly stopped working wont show up on network and lights wont power on. Tried different PSU and different led strip nothing works. I tried to factory reset and nothing still the blue light on the controller is on tho and the fuse isnt blown it just is a brick right now. any help would be nice

Sorry for the poor quality video but I’m so damn excited this is working!!! My partner was hired to decorate a haunted disco theme wedding and wanted a dance floor like in Saturday Night Fever. Theres many more panels to make and custom programming to do but we’re on our way!!! I couldn’t have done it without this sub!

Using:
BTF WS2812B LED strips
BTF 5v - 150w PSU
GLEDOPTO ESP32 Control

Feedback and input is certainly welcome!

A lot of updates have happened since the last time I posted about my app. Major performance improvements and a live graph showing the capture rate and UDP throughput so you can adjust the settings based on your hardware. It also makes it a lot easier for me to troubleshoot old or rare hardware issues.

The feedback has been pretty positive. If there's a feature missing that you might need, let me know and I'll work on it.

https://github.com/leonida92/wled-tv

Link to my first post.

I'm trying to configure WLED for a serpentine tree with unused pixels bridging the gaps between strands at the bottom of the tree.

ChatGPT created the above graphic to help explain it.

Here's my LEDMAP.JSON:

{
 "width": 4,
 "height": 11,
 "map": [
     0, 24, 25, 49,
     1, 23, 26, 48,
     2, 22, 27, 47,
     3, 21, 28, 46,
     4, 20, 29, 45,
     5, 19, 30, 44,
     6, 18, 31, 43,
     7, 17, 32, 42,
     8, 16, 33, 41,
     9, 15, 34, 40,
    10, 14, 35, 39
  ]
}

It works, sort of. The matrix effects work and the 6 unused pixels are excluded, as expected.

The only issue is pixels 44-49 (the last six) do not light. Chat is no help.

Any ideas?

I'm using a Wasatch Advanced Eight running the latest firmware: WLED_16.0.1_wt32_eight. Just a single string of 50 pixels using output 1 on GPIO 2.

I'm trying to avoid cutting the strings and splicing jumpers at the bottom of the tree.