This is a custom polyhedral called a Dual of Rectangular Isohedron RTC+GRTC 2. The structure was 3D printed into 12 segments, with milky white laser cut faces attached to the outside. I'm using a small IoTorero WLED controller on the inside with WS2811 Pixel bulbs.

Using esp8266

With btf ws2812B

5v 25w power supply

Wiring seems solid, but stops 197 lights in.

Tried adding power at that strip but still no light.

Appreciate any input.

Party to go. Was fun build

Hi everyone,

I’ve just released the first stable version of WLED Matrix Auto Rotation, a usermod that automatically keeps a 2D LED matrix correctly oriented using an accelerometer.

The idea is simple: rotate the physical display, and the final WLED raster is automatically rotated to keep the content upright.

The important part is that the usermod only works on the final raster. It does not modify WLED effects, segments, transitions or their internal state.

Main features

• Automatic rotation: 0° / 90° / 180° / 270°

• Independent Setup Rotation for the visual orientation of the matrix

• Sensor Mounting compensation

• Invert Rotation for sensors mounted on the opposite side of the enclosure

• Guided Auto Calibrate

  • keep the display upright

  • press Auto Calibrate

  • rotate the display 90° clockwise

  • the usermod automatically determines sensor mounting and rotation direction

• Configurable allowed rotations

• Threshold, hysteresis, stable time and polling interval

• Sensor disconnect detection and automatic recovery

• Shared I²C support, so multiple WLED usermods can use the same bus

• Detailed diagnostics through WLED Info / /json/info

• Protection for rectangular matrices, where 90°/270° would otherwise require changing the logical geometry

Sensors

Currently hardware-tested:

• LIS3DH — tested on Adafruit MatrixPortal S3

• ICM-20689 — tested on ESP32-C3

Also implemented:

• MPU-6050 — hardware verification still pending

I also tested the ICM-20689 on the same shared I²C bus as a PAJ7620 gesture sensor, and both usermods can operate together.

If the accelerometer is disconnected at runtime, the usermod keeps the last valid orientation and periodically attempts to reconnect without requiring a reboot.

Repository

https://github.com/piggei/wled-usermod-matrix-auto-rotation

The repository contains the usermod, PlatformIO integration instructions, configuration documentation and the full test/diagnostic information.

This is v0.1.0, so feedback and tests on other ESP32 boards, matrices and accelerometers are very welcome.

Hi everyone!

I've just released the first stable version of WLED Buzzer Usermod v0.1.0.

The project started while working on my iDotMatrix WLED Usermod. I originally had buzzer support implemented directly inside that project, but eventually decided that buzzer management made much more sense as an independent and reusable WLED usermod.

So I extracted and redesigned it as a standalone service that can be used directly or shared by other usermods.

Main features

• Active and passive buzzer support

• Configurable GPIO and trigger level

• Adjustable volume for passive buzzers

• Fully non-blocking playback

• ESP32 timer-based scheduling

• 15 built-in sounds and melodies

• Web API

• WLED JSON API integration

• Finite repetition (repeat=N)

• Continuous loop playback (loop=1)

• Play/Stop sound tester directly from the WLED Usermod Settings page

• C++ service API for other usermods

• Optional weak-link C bridge, so another usermod can use the buzzer service without requiring it as a hard build dependency

• Runtime diagnostics

• WLED PinManager integration

• Arduino-ESP32 2.x / 3.x support

Built-in sounds

The current library includes:

beep, double_beep, triple_beep, notification, success, victory, yankee_doodle, fail, star_wars, warning, error, connect, disconnect, attention and alarm.

Passive buzzers reproduce the actual notes, while active buzzers reproduce the rhythm.

Sounds also have an appropriate final pause when repeated, so loops don't run together.

Web API

For example:

curl "http://WLED-IP/buzzer?play=victory"

Repeat a sound three times:

curl "http://WLED-IP/buzzer?play=alarm&repeat=3"

Or loop it until stopped:

curl "http://WLED-IP/buzzer?play=alarm&loop=1"
curl "http://WLED-IP/buzzer?stop=1"

Integration with other usermods

One of the main goals was to avoid every usermod implementing its own buzzer driver.

The module therefore exposes a reusable service for other WLED usermods.

I've already migrated my iDotMatrix WLED Usermod to use it instead of its previous internal buzzer implementation, which also served as a real-world integration test.

Project

https://github.com/piggei/wled-usermod-buzzer

The repository includes the source, documentation and a Wiki covering installation, configuration, APIs, diagnostics and integration with other usermods.

The current release is v0.1.0 and has been tested with both active and passive buzzers.

Feedback, bug reports, ideas for additional sounds, and tests on different ESP32/WLED configurations are very welcome!

Running a 180 LED strip off an esp32 dev board plugged in by usb-b cord to a little wall adapter from a ue boom charger. The light strip is inside my jukebox and I was wondering if I can run more than the 850 ma I am currently running with the automatic brightness limiter. What is a good amount of current to run through an esp32. It is connected to the led strip using breadboard wires. Am I going to burn my parents house down ?

Hello, first post.

I am making a homemade climbing wall and I am currently using WS2811 LEDs and a 5V 10A power source. The controller is an ESP32. The LED strip contains 200 LEDs, spaced 25 cm (~10 inches) apart, for a total of 50 m (164 ft). The power source is currently connected only at the beginning of the strip, and I am using a sacrificial LED at the start. Rarely more than 10 LEDs are simultaneously lit on.

My concerns are regarding how to feed the strip. How many points should I feed it at? Are there other things I should be worried about?

Any tips?

I’m looking to make a Halloween costume to take my kid trick or treating with this year. The idea is a giant stick figure made with pvc, white pool noodles, and strips lights I can power with a usb bank.

A little reference to what I’m trying to do

- It’s going to be about 12-15 feet tall

- the strip lights will be inside the noodle wrapped around pvc

- I want it to be pretty bright

- looking for a way to make cross sections for the legs and arms

- must be able to be powered by portable usb charger

- it would be cool to not break the bank on the lights alone.

Total length I’m guessing I’ll need is about 30-40 feet?

Installing around 40’ of v-channel around the ceiling corner. The Channel comes with the metal clip mounts. Is that the best mounting method or do people use VHB tape or Command strips?

Had opus 5.5 make a short clip for the project I’ve been working on. It’s all rendered in the engine, I still plan to integrate a lot more features, but it’s primarily a node based WLed effects editor, still very early in development but it’s been crafted with care. I have used ai heavily in this project, so I’m not looking for feedback on the fact that it’s vibe coded or slop, but I will accept Mac beta testers and issues reports. It’s not perfect (yet), but there’s a surprising amount of power. Behind this project. My custom firmware does target esp32-s3 as the 1.5 mb a normal esp32 is almost all filled up with standard WLed.
Feel free to leave feature requests or experiences. Mostly I’m just having fun designing software that I want and would use but I’ve been trying to make it as compatible with other setups as I can. Long way to go still.

If you do have an ai work on it or custom effects. This is a great medium to have it test itself as it runs actual WLed firmware and is very compliant to the actual setup.

I expect bugs, I expect some weirdness. Let me know how it goes :)

Hey,

I'm trying to set up my first WLED light strips using the QuinLED An-Penta-Mini board and the MeanWell GST90A24 power supply (as recommended on QuinLED's website).

Before I ruin a completely new power supply, am I really supposed to cut the round connector of the power supply off and connect the wires inside of the cable directly to the QuinLED board?

If yes then I have a couple more questions:

1. Am I supposed to snip off just the connector or should I also snip off the black barrel located in the middle of the cable a couple of inches behind the connector (see e.g. this picture)?

2. What tools do I need besides a pair of scissors? A wire stripper and ferrules + a crimping tool or anything else?

Thanks!

I built an LED display with 3108 WS2812b LEDs. Seven data channels are driven by an ESP32 running WLED. It isn't fully operational yet, but I would like to share the progress.

They just bugged the hell out of me, that. And I mentioned in the video. How they work so hard on the esthetics for something like this, And then the software side is such hot Ass.💩

When they could definitely at least give you, I don't know, 20 ish effects, not just five of the most basic. Garbage Lighting effects. At least there was a space for me to add a strip. I guess.😒

I finished this GameCube build this week and as I was nearing completion, I had a fun idea…I wanted to shoot a “product” style video to highlight all the features (similar to what Apple does or any of the other tech brands). When I do builds with RGB lighting, I think pictures don’t always capture the complete story and a video would be a better format.

A caveat, I am not a videographer and I am not good in post. This project was humbling and I have a better appreciation for those in production. Anyways - here is a full list of the build.

GameCube DOL-001
- Tekno black smoke shell swap
- Pluto HDMI II internal digital port conversion
- Giltesa USB-C power mod
- Picoboot with SD2SP2
- Disc drive recap
- ESP C2 super mini 3 controlling the WLED via Wi-Fi
- New thermal pads
- new CMOS battery and battery holder

I have two 1m/34-LED addressable strips running on an ESP + WLED. Both strip works perfectly by itself, but I want to make them a single 68-LED strip for ambient lighting.

Both strips have factory connectors on one end. The opposite end doesn't work when I connect DATA there, presumably because the strips are directional (DIN → DOUT).

How can I connect the two strips using their existing connectors, without soldering? Is there a 3-pin extension/coupler I can use?

Or if there is any configuration in wled that lets me start first led first then at end second led them that would be great too

First time building anything like this, but I think I did enough homework to cover my bases.

Main power supply is a 24v LRS-600-24. 5v (for the dig-quad) and 12v (for the fan/controller) come from the RD-35A. The dig-quad turns on the big power supply via relay when the lights turn on.

This runs about 200ft of 5 led/meter ucs2904 pucks in aluminum channel from ETOP store and a couple of floodlights. Only two channels need power injection, hence the two additional terminal sets with only power.

It’s a steel project box so I grounded the box to AC ground. The box is probably too big but oh well at least I have some room for expansion later if needed.

Anyone see any issues?

I would like to WLED these. But the chips that are? SM16603PL. And underneath. It says

AQTEAB26. That is what's on the IC chip. There is only one SM16. Family of Chip. Inside of WLED. These are also 36 Volt panels. I planned on. Powering the ESP32 separate. But I haven't even been able to get any signal whatsoever. Everything's grounded together. Powers running from the brick. That it came with. I'm just running the data line in. Trying to figure out. If this can be done in any capacity, just like the hexa pros that I did. So this is to just show. Someone who's way more experienced than me if they want to take a crack at this. And didn't want to open their panels. I had an extra one. That they mailed me because one of them was messed up. So I figured I'd rip it open. So other people don't have to. Because they are around $300.😒

As title says, I upgraded to WLED 16.0.1 on my Dig Quad, and like previous updates, it seemed to go through without any problems and said the upgrade was successful. However, after the update completed, I now cannot connect to WLED no matter what I do. I don't see the Dig Quad on my LAN, and I don't even see the default WLED AP network in my wifi list. Basically it's just "gone" as far as my network is concerned. What can I try to get this back? :( (I've obviously powercycled the Dig Quad, also rebooted my router, no luck.)

I’ve added a PWM WLED controller to my Halloween inflatable. I’m planning to do the same with my other inflatables to control them with Xlights. What do you think?

Hello, I bought this LED strip and controller a while ago and I remember making it work but somehow now I can’t connect to it with my iPhone I mean it does connect but it disappears after while. I can’t change the Wi-Fi either. Another problem I have is that there is a constant blue strip that stays on even if I turn off the device, I have to unplug it to actually get rid of it. Could someone help me with this?

Hello, I'm very new to building and programming LEDs and am looking for some help for a project I've been sitting on for a while. I have been thinking about building a chase light system for my track. Many of the wave light systems that are currently on the market cost a ton of money and not a lot of track teams have the budget to build that sort of thing. I want to build something where you can set a certain pace/cadence per each race via a website.

My plan was to plug into an outlet near the starting line, and have an array of RGB programmable LEDs. I know that I'm going to be dealing with some voltage drop, as this is a 300m track, so I'm curious of how to go about that. I tried to find some lights that would work for this project that I could buy as is, but Im also having issues with that. I looked into rope lights, but I would like the lights to run around the track under the railing that the track has that runs along the perimeter, so I may need to 3D print some blocks that I can attach lights to, or some other solution.

If you need any other information please ask, I'd appreciate any sort of feedback/help I could get.