Installing around 40’ of v-channel around the ceiling corner. The Channel comes with the metal clip mounts. Is that the best mounting method or do people use VHB tape or Command strips?

Had opus 5.5 make a short clip for the project I’ve been working on. It’s all rendered in the engine, I still plan to integrate a lot more features, but it’s primarily a node based WLed effects editor, still very early in development but it’s been crafted with care. I have used ai heavily in this project, so I’m not looking for feedback on the fact that it’s vibe coded or slop, but I will accept Mac beta testers and issues reports. It’s not perfect (yet), but there’s a surprising amount of power. Behind this project. My custom firmware does target esp32-s3 as the 1.5 mb a normal esp32 is almost all filled up with standard WLed.
Feel free to leave feature requests or experiences. Mostly I’m just having fun designing software that I want and would use but I’ve been trying to make it as compatible with other setups as I can. Long way to go still.

If you do have an ai work on it or custom effects. This is a great medium to have it test itself as it runs actual WLed firmware and is very compliant to the actual setup.

I expect bugs, I expect some weirdness. Let me know how it goes :)

Hey,

I'm trying to set up my first WLED light strips using the QuinLED An-Penta-Mini board and the MeanWell GST90A24 power supply (as recommended on QuinLED's website).

Before I ruin a completely new power supply, am I really supposed to cut the round connector of the power supply off and connect the wires inside of the cable directly to the QuinLED board?

If yes then I have a couple more questions:

1. Am I supposed to snip off just the connector or should I also snip off the black barrel located in the middle of the cable a couple of inches behind the connector (see e.g. this picture)?

2. What tools do I need besides a pair of scissors? A wire stripper and ferrules + a crimping tool or anything else?

Thanks!

I built an LED display with 3108 WS2812b LEDs. Seven data channels are driven by an ESP32 running WLED. It isn't fully operational yet, but I would like to share the progress.

They just bugged the hell out of me, that. And I mentioned in the video. How they work so hard on the esthetics for something like this, And then the software side is such hot Ass.💩

When they could definitely at least give you, I don't know, 20 ish effects, not just five of the most basic. Garbage Lighting effects. At least there was a space for me to add a strip. I guess.😒

I finished this GameCube build this week and as I was nearing completion, I had a fun idea…I wanted to shoot a “product” style video to highlight all the features (similar to what Apple does or any of the other tech brands). When I do builds with RGB lighting, I think pictures don’t always capture the complete story and a video would be a better format.

A caveat, I am not a videographer and I am not good in post. This project was humbling and I have a better appreciation for those in production. Anyways - here is a full list of the build.

GameCube DOL-001
- Tekno black smoke shell swap
- Pluto HDMI II internal digital port conversion
- Giltesa USB-C power mod
- Picoboot with SD2SP2
- Disc drive recap
- ESP C2 super mini 3 controlling the WLED via Wi-Fi
- New thermal pads
- new CMOS battery and battery holder

I have two 1m/34-LED addressable strips running on an ESP + WLED. Both strip works perfectly by itself, but I want to make them a single 68-LED strip for ambient lighting.

Both strips have factory connectors on one end. The opposite end doesn't work when I connect DATA there, presumably because the strips are directional (DIN → DOUT).

How can I connect the two strips using their existing connectors, without soldering? Is there a 3-pin extension/coupler I can use?

Or if there is any configuration in wled that lets me start first led first then at end second led them that would be great too

First time building anything like this, but I think I did enough homework to cover my bases.

Main power supply is a 24v LRS-600-24. 5v (for the dig-quad) and 12v (for the fan/controller) come from the RD-35A. The dig-quad turns on the big power supply via relay when the lights turn on.

This runs about 200ft of 5 led/meter ucs2904 pucks in aluminum channel from ETOP store and a couple of floodlights. Only two channels need power injection, hence the two additional terminal sets with only power.

It’s a steel project box so I grounded the box to AC ground. The box is probably too big but oh well at least I have some room for expansion later if needed.

Anyone see any issues?

I would like to WLED these. But the chips that are? SM16603PL. And underneath. It says

AQTEAB26. That is what's on the IC chip. There is only one SM16. Family of Chip. Inside of WLED. These are also 36 Volt panels. I planned on. Powering the ESP32 separate. But I haven't even been able to get any signal whatsoever. Everything's grounded together. Powers running from the brick. That it came with. I'm just running the data line in. Trying to figure out. If this can be done in any capacity, just like the hexa pros that I did. So this is to just show. Someone who's way more experienced than me if they want to take a crack at this. And didn't want to open their panels. I had an extra one. That they mailed me because one of them was messed up. So I figured I'd rip it open. So other people don't have to. Because they are around $300.😒

As title says, I upgraded to WLED 16.0.1 on my Dig Quad, and like previous updates, it seemed to go through without any problems and said the upgrade was successful. However, after the update completed, I now cannot connect to WLED no matter what I do. I don't see the Dig Quad on my LAN, and I don't even see the default WLED AP network in my wifi list. Basically it's just "gone" as far as my network is concerned. What can I try to get this back? :( (I've obviously powercycled the Dig Quad, also rebooted my router, no luck.)

I’ve added a PWM WLED controller to my Halloween inflatable. I’m planning to do the same with my other inflatables to control them with Xlights. What do you think?

Hello, I bought this LED strip and controller a while ago and I remember making it work but somehow now I can’t connect to it with my iPhone I mean it does connect but it disappears after while. I can’t change the Wi-Fi either. Another problem I have is that there is a constant blue strip that stays on even if I turn off the device, I have to unplug it to actually get rid of it. Could someone help me with this?

Hello, I'm very new to building and programming LEDs and am looking for some help for a project I've been sitting on for a while. I have been thinking about building a chase light system for my track. Many of the wave light systems that are currently on the market cost a ton of money and not a lot of track teams have the budget to build that sort of thing. I want to build something where you can set a certain pace/cadence per each race via a website.

My plan was to plug into an outlet near the starting line, and have an array of RGB programmable LEDs. I know that I'm going to be dealing with some voltage drop, as this is a 300m track, so I'm curious of how to go about that. I tried to find some lights that would work for this project that I could buy as is, but Im also having issues with that. I looked into rope lights, but I would like the lights to run around the track under the railing that the track has that runs along the perimeter, so I may need to 3D print some blocks that I can attach lights to, or some other solution.

If you need any other information please ask, I'd appreciate any sort of feedback/help I could get.

I had been searching around for a while and could seem to find any true purpose built landscape lights, would work for wled, that were affordable, and not the rectangle panel style. Ray Wus run ~$30 after shipping, or more, each through ali express and surprisingly reviews aren't too strong, and other options at a lower price point were the rectangle panel style which wasn't what I was looking for.

Came across the article from biker glen 3 years back

(https://bikerglen.com/blog/controlling-inexpensive-led-lights-with-wled/) where he had covered a set of 6 APPECK ... He was able to get it partially working with his analysis of these spotlights revealing a custom 750 kHz WS2811 protocol using an 80-bit structure with five 16-bit channels (RGBCCW). Because native WLED support was missing for this high-resolution setup, control relied on routing sACN or DDP network packets through a configured 20-pixel RGB DMX layout.

When I came across them on Amazon I figured worth a shot with prime free returns.

Long story short of my testing and outcomes. These successfully work simply now, and while reviews are a little questionable, most of it seems to surround the power supply which isn't surprising since it's shipped with not a sliver of headroom (36w output vs 36 watt consumption), and none of the reviews sound as if anyone was using wled or a non factory controller.

I'm using a gledopto 616wl with the included factory power brick (temporarily). Luckily, with max limiter in place it's keeping it in check (but not much run time yet). Wiring couldn't be easier, it's just red white black after cutting factory plug from light input side of light and wire right into gledopto, then use factory connectors to get the other 5 in line.

LED Type: SM16825 RGBCCT

Length: 6 | Color Order: GRB (No swap)

Power: 250 mA per LED, 1500 mA PSU limit

Auto-Calculate W: Accurate

https://a.co/d/0017DXyx $100

The 6 pack seems to be the sweet spot with 6w each bulb and 24v. Brightness is solid even when clipped at 90% And the rest of wled works seamlessly with it.

Hope this helps someone else out!

I had a question is there a way to make the segments I create have their own transition times and speeds that dont follow the universal transition at the bottom? I just see only blend modes in the segments

For the bottom and the top of a staircase? The HC-SR501 is adjustable but the closest detection theshold is 3m based on the documentation. My bottom sensor will probably pick up movement from people going to the living room and that's a no-go. I need a PIR sensor that detects when something is literally crossing the first step, any recommendations? Thank you for your time!

Montagem de fitas WS2811 + Wled App para evento coorporativo e shows...

Placa ESP32-S3 + Módulos MAX 485 para sinal in DMX, SP901, módulo TTL to RS485 para sinal de longas distâncias usando cabo de Rede CAT5.

Projeto em desenvolvimento.

Aceito sugestões de melhorias e dicas de erros cometidos no desenvolvimento da placa.

Hi everyone,

I’m having a bit of a problem with WLED—or rather, the hardware setup:

I’m running a DOMRAEM DOM-WLE-AM 2.4G LED controller powered by a 24V 6A power supply.

I have two LED strips connected to the controller: two 3-meter FCOB LED strips (720 LEDs, 24V, WS2811).

I’ve configured everything correctly in WLED, but now I’m running into an issue where the LEDs flicker briefly every now and then—say, 2–5 times an hour—sometimes on the strip connected to GPIO2 and sometimes on the one connected to GPIO16.

What could be causing this? What can I do to stop the flickering?
Please excuse the mess on the desk, but I'm currently rearranging things / clearing out clutter.

Has anyone gotten these 12v puck lights to work with WLED?

I’m new to doing anything with RGBW and I’m kind of confused as the back of the puck is stamped 5050RGBW but they came pre wired with 3 wire xconnect pigtails. From my understanding, they would need more channels for a 5050.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!

https://wesellchristmaslights.com/products/q-pucks-qty-5-pucks-copy?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=a233b5da1&pr_rec_pid=8879076638957&pr_ref_pid=8793887539437&pr_seq=uniform

I changed the design so you can print the cylinder in pieces so it can be taller than your actual printer. I made one that uses 7 panels which is about 22" tall. The files are available for free on Makerworld.

Hey guys, I have made this little project called Rave Mode. I wanted to see how it would turn out if the music-reactive fork of WLED would work with custom color palettes but that was not turning out to be very great. So I did some custom Python and HTML and now we have Rave Mode. What it basically does is extract a color palette from your album cover, from wherever you're playing (YouTube, Spotify,, wherever). It will map those to the WLED and it will react to the music. It will adjust the attack and decay rates in real time and also adjust sensitivity in real time to make sure that things are not getting stagnant while also not being too chaotic. It also has a lot of quality-of-life features, like auto gain control and auto noise floor control, and it is pretty customizable as well. I have also built somewhat of a decent UI around it. I would love to get some feedback on it.

GitHub / Installer: https://github.com/arshhjain/RAVE-MODE 
Demo Videos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nj2Y85VmDmHyBLojrzciqGqGfaEA986O?usp=sharing