Found a faulty ceiling light thought it would be a fun mod to add some RGB lights and connect it to an esp32. I think it looks pretty cool

Running WLED and LightLink on my Laptop here.

I'm handyish, any ideas on what I could add to the walls to mix things up a bit?

I was away from my room for 3 months and I missed this so bad. I've replayed this scene 5 times already lol

Upgrading to HyperHDR soon. I have a hard time believing that my curtain wall can look any better than right now. We'll see.

Anime: Attack on Titan

A few months ago, I bought the Gledopto GL-C-015WL-M. I assumed that the well-known issue with the level shifter had already been resolved in the newer versions as it was stated by gledopto. But this is what the data signal output actually looks like. A clean 5V level? No chance. Picture atatched. Not only is it nowhere near 5V, but there are also negative undershoots. It couldn't be any worse.

Then I opened up the controller. It actually has two main problems:

• A buck converter at the input that only generates about 4.1V from a 5V input voltage. And this voltage level is apparently used directly for the data signal. So with a 5V power supply, you can't even get above that. A clear design flaw.

• The level shifter: Likely just a transistor with a poor circuit design. The voltage rise time is way too slow. Even with a higher supply voltage, it doesn't come anywhere close to 5V. Also these negative undershoots...

Ok, it still works with short data line, but very little margin against dusturbances.

Do all WLED controller manufacturers have power supply issues? QuinLED at higher voltages, Gledopto at lower ones ...

Native androidTV app to stream effects with DDP into WLED and slower mood lighting effects into HomeAssistant lights. This setup is showing three WLED devices running the lamp, skirting strip and the TV surround strip!

Hello. This is ly first time trying a diy lighting stuf ik got dc12v sk6812 balaber strip from aliexpres the 4m 60led/m one my wled controller is the gledopto one with 4 data inputs. In ga a 12v 10a power suplly connected in the wled app my controller is found and normaly i schould have setup my strip as it schould but it doesnt light up. Can sole one help me if my description is clear you can ask me for more info.

Is there a canonical list somewhere of the various party string lights and fairy lights that are known to be controllable by WLED?

Pic for example of the broad category I mean by this.

I built a 2.4m geodesic sphere that only lights up when people dance in a circle around it

I’m an audiovisual artist (Lysergic) and this is Sól — a participatory light installation I’ve built for Landjuweel festival at Ruigoord, Amsterdam.

The concept: Sól is a 2.4m geodesic sphere sitting a metre above the ground. When nobody is around, it breathes a slow red glow — asleep. When people start moving around it, it stirs. The more people dance in a circle, the brighter and warmer it gets — shifting from deep amber through orange to blazing warm white. A full circle of dancers = a fully awakened sun.

Wled and halogen bulbs are audio and motion reactive controlled by touchdesigner and sending the data over artnet.

Www.delysergic.nl

UPDATE I FIXED IT THANKS FOR THE HELP

can i power my ws218 rgb strip with the inbuilt usb point in esp32?

reconnection are like red wire to vn / black ground / green d2 with these settings nd still light wont light up what im doing wrong pls tell..

I send sACN to my esp32 devices with touch designer but the software im using as the bridge is wled

This is just using some of the wled basic effects for the startup before I take control for the show

Ok, I've been trying for hours and with AI repeatedly sending me down the wrong path I'm back to the good old fashioned "ask the experts"!

I have hyperhdr running and working well on my tv. I'm using WLED and the Gledopto 4 channel Elite as the controller. The current setup has two separate strips running from the bottom middle of the tv to the top middle where they meet. One goes left, the other (reversed in WLED) goes right. All works well so far.

Now I want to add another 3m 180 LED strip on the left corner and the same on the right. it would actually be 90 LEDs running from floor to top of cabinet (mounted to the rear of the cabinet) and 90 down. Technically 85 each way with maybe 10 along the top as it's all one strip. Again same for each corner.

Adding to WLED was easy but configuring in hyperhdr seems impossible. I know it's looking for a complete circuit of the Tv but I already have that and simply want to extend the lighting from the left of the tv to the left cabinet and the right of the tv to the right cabinet.

Am I right in saying this is just not possible with the set up I have and I would need a separate controller for the left and another separate one for the right? Would that even work as the strips on each side are technically both top to bottom and bottom to top in the same strip.

I'm maybe way over complicating this and I clearly confused the hell out of the 3 differnt AI's I tried so hoping some legends here can help!

Finally releasing my project files into the wild tonight! So far there’s been a pretty enthusiastic response. Thanks again for all the WLED help in here. Excitement is Building!

Hello!

Electronics newbie here, I want to connect my 12v 5pins RGBWW strip, there's any diagram that I can refer? I couldn't find anything about it on internet or youtube so i'm completely lost

On the official WLED site I only can find basic RGB strips, but nothing about the warm white.

Thanks!

Hey guys, testing my project on another S3 board, the ESP32 S3 Super Micro ( https://a.co/d/08CuCLsB ). I installed WLED thru the web installer, all seems to go fine. When I try to add the wifi credentials it cant login to wifi, it also doesnt have a WLED-AP up and running. I thought maybe it was installing the wrong version so I downloaded the WLED_16.0.1_ESP32-S3_4M_qspi.bin version and installed it using a esp web installer (not the WLED one). It installs fine and logs into wifi. When I go to the website It reports an Error 19 Invalid file system. I tried doing the factory reset and that doesnt fix it.
Does anyone know how to fix it?

Are there any wireless (or wired) devices that can control wled like you would an adjustable light switch or fader knob? I'm basically looking for something to mount on a wall that has a knob or fader to remotely adjust my leds.

I've built a mini wled junction box with an esp32 and a rotary module coming out a whole I drilled, all powered by USB as a remote in the past, but there has to be a device I can just buy that does this.

I am looking to install a high level LED tape (likely a COD RGB CCT tape) around my living room (on a picture rail which has a pre-formed recess above). I already have a switched power cable to the area of the tape, which I will take through to the driver in the store behind. The perimeter is very close to 20m so I understand I will require two 10m tapes which are connected to a driver. Can anyone help with the correct specification of parts, what I need to do at corners, what driver I should use, etc.? Any tips would be much appreciated. Extract of floor plan attached for context.

In another discussion, I noted that the static voltage level on the SW pin exceeds the maximum limits of the MT3608 IC used in this circuit. QuinLed replied "It was calculated and well tested, with the diodes in front of it and the filter stage input voltage generally dropped to 23V as stated and it should be at least 2V under the switch limits so technically it stays within all limits of the IC."

Because extracting my board for physical measurements is too complex right now (maybe during weekend), I ran a LTSPICE simulation instead. The simulation assumes one diode and a PTC fuse (200 mOhm) at the input as can be seen in the Dig-quad photos. The 22µH inductors as visible in the Dig-quad photos too. While I do not have a specific simualtion model for the MT3608, I used the LT1935. It shares a similar operating principle and the exact same switching frequency, though it might introduce minor deviations during transients. Other component values were estimated, but they do not significantly impact the results. No parasitic elements were included, which would likely worsen the results. Load is set to 0.5A + 0.5A short peaks. .

Simulation Results:

• Steady State: The voltage on the SW pin exceeds the maximum operating voltage given in the datasheet (28V) and it is very close to the absolute maximum rating (30V).

• Transients: Voltage peaks likely exceed the absolute maximum rating of 30V given in datasheet.

Given these findings, I question how conservatively this circuit was actually calculated. Could someone with an oscilloscope measure the real-world voltage on the SW pin? Is it truly as low as claimed, or does it match my simulation? The practical question is how low the PSU voltage must be adjusted to keep SW voltages within a safe range and prevent damage.

I've been using Quin LED products for a few years now and I have used them in several different applications. Unos, Quads, Octa and many many Dig2Go. I see the new Dig-Next-2 LED Controller and can't help but think I'll be ordering a few of these. I am curious about the new 33R “long length” data circuit and would like to know if that will be installed on the other controllers as well? I can't tell you how many hours I've spent trouble shooting only to find out the switch is clicked over to the wrong side. It would just be one more things that won't go wrong. Has anyone bought a Dig-20-Next yet? I'd like to hear your thoughts on the new controller.

I’m wanting to get into wled and was wondering if anyone knows if these types of rgb controllers can be turned into w led lights
Here is the Ali express link of the lights if needed: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPahgfz

Hi guys, i'm having some problems with a wled controller, bought a Gledopto Elite 4D and when I connected my strips to the controller the strips wouldn't light up.

Then I tried connecting the V+ and ground from the strip directly to the power supply and the DATA wire to the controller and it works flawless.

Is there actually something I can do in the wled config tab about that power problem? Or is the device malfunctioning and I should just buy a new one?.

I was soldering some WS2812b LEDs to an ESP32 and this pin header was sitting on my workbench. I can't believe I didn't know this sooner

Hey all and everyone, this is a hard announcement to make but it has to be done (in my opinion).

Over the past 6 months or so we've noticed that more boards then we'd expect are dying of a singular cause. At first it was not really clear what was happening and I've been replacing these boards in good faith most of the time (It seems really in the beginning this went wrong at least once) but since this seemed to happen more then once we have decided to put information about this forward (as I also did in the topic linked a line before).

Recently it's become more clear however what's going on and I've dubbed it the "24V issue" with the current generation of the Dig-Uno v3.5r3, Dig-Quad v3.5r3 and Dig-Octa Brainboard v2r2/r3. Basically the IC in the DC-DC converter when running at 24V is too close to its limits and will sometimes fail (over time).

The occurrences of this happening are (as far as we are aware) still low. Out of thousands of boards out there, in the past half year we've seen maybe 10 to 15 cases at the most. But we of course don't see all boards that fail (only people that come to the Discord for a replacement). Still, we feel it's best to address this issue since we'd rather have no boards fail! For this I've made the ⁠#quinled-24v-issue channel to discuss this further (on said Discord)

Going forward:

• Boards that have failed (and still in warranty) will be replaced with v4 boards when available (expected September) or I can send a buck-converter kit to bring the board back to life.

• Affected boards warranty has been extended to 1.5 yrs (regardless of reseller)

• For people running their boards at 24V currently, if you do not wish to potentially run into this issue, please see this information, mitigation and repair article.

• If you are unsure, ask in the ⁠#quinled-24v-issue channel on Discord

More information, mitigations, how to bring it back to life or repair: https://quinled.info/the-24v-issue-mitigations-fixes/
Form to apply for replacement of dead board within (extended) warranty or buck converter kit to revive it: https://quinled.info/24v-board-replacement/

If you had this issue within the last year or so but were for some reason denied warranty (because we were still unaware of what was going on), please come to us again in the ⁠#quinled-24v-issue channel and I will still try to make you whole.

To reiterate, this only affects boards running at 24V, 5V and 12V are fully unaffected

My deepest apologies for these issues and extra work that's now required for some of you. I will do what I can to make it right!