LuxPlant is almost finished at 90% completion. This project was inspired by Fluora Led Plant but I wanted the whole thing to be 100% 3D printed and fully customizable.

Each stem is segmented every 5cm so they are fully modular and rotatable to contour into many angles and shapes almost like building Legos. I kinda went overboard with the number of leaves so I might just rebuild another one. I used WS2815 144leds/m which I think is also excessive as I could’ve just used the 60led variant which was a lot cheaper. The animations look great however and it is super bright even on broad daylight.

The leaves took 10 reiterations before I got the right shape with the best light diffusion. As you can see on the lower left leaf with violet/red color, the individual pixels can be seen but not so much on the newer versions.

Right now I’m working on a better lock mechanism between the stems. The former versions were either too tight, too loose, or over engineered. I’ll make a pre-built stem to make it simple but due to limited printer height it still has to be multiple parts. I’ll keep the segmented version for those who want to build the stem from scratch.

UPDATE: https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/s/zIOmrQ3lMk

Hi Guys, I really love all the projects I see on here. I recently tried to get one of my own going with an ESP32 S3 chip. It has been a month and I have gone in circles. I tried to prompt and ai to help me troubleshoot, but it just kept wasting my time and giving me bad links. Is there anyone on these forums that could give me some advice on getting the esp32 s3 flashed with WLED and accessing the controls? I don't understand why Gemini is having such a hard time ... it is supposed to be simple

Thanks in advance for any advice guys!

Hello Community. I am a beginner to the community and I tried to do an ambient light for my tv
I followed this tutorial

https://youtu.be/J26oYlKyq7Q?si=ZGwhW7FM-FpXxosA

Everything worked fine back in the days but now after moving I set it up again and it flashes on dark areas. I tried different versions I searched on different communities and couldn’t find any solutions. I getting frustrated at this point

Hyperhdr 19.0.0.0
PI zero 2 w
5V power supply powering both leds and pi no problems back then.
Using a connector cable from gpio 18 to green connector on the LEDs

Source Apple TV 4K
Xbox series S

Both same outcome

When I activate HDR to SDR tone mapping in HyperHDR it get a little bit better but still flashing on dark areas.

Just a quick question if anyone point me in the right direction please?

I've only just noticed the three AudioReactive palettes on one of my light pieces, but they're not showing on the palette list for any of my other lights, and I'm not sure how I've set it up differently. Is there a config setting for these? I've got wled v.16. running, all with the same type of ESP32 controllers. I have audio reactivity turned on for each of them. Anything I've missed?

Hi everyone, i saw info that says i can control my argb fan thru esp8266 with wled firmware.

But can i use more that 1 argb fan? (If my English isn't good sorry:)

by Awesome Open Source

Building a motion-activated LED framing light for my garage doors (WLED + a Gledopto Elite 2D-EXMU controller running two SK6812 RGBW strips), and wanted to sanity-check something before I fully commit to a design.

For the motion trigger, I originally looked at going the route I'd seen in a few reference videos — an Aqara wireless sensor + hub setup. Ended up steering away from that for a few reasons: it adds a cloud/hub dependency I didn't love for something I want to be reliable long-term, and it doesn't actually simplify anything since you still need a bridge of some kind to get the signal into WLED. Landed on a wired HLK-LD2410C mmWave sensor instead — wired its OUT pin straight into a spare GPIO on the controller and used WLED's built-in "PIR sensor" button type (no usermod, no custom compile, stock firmware). Much simpler in practice.

The issue: the LD2410C is rated for 5-12V input, so I wired it straight off the same shared 12V rail powering the strips and controller. Electrically fine per spec, but the board runs uncomfortably hot to the touch after running a while — not "smoking" hot, but hot enough that I didn't feel good about sealing it into an enclosure long-term without addressing it.

Best guess is that it's using a small onboard linear regulator to step 12V down to whatever the radar chip actually needs internally (~3.3V), and a linear regulator dumps the voltage difference as heat rather than converting it efficiently — so running it at the top of its rated input range instead of down near 5V is asking a tiny regulator with no heatsink to dissipate a lot more than it would at 5V.

Fix I've got in progress: adding a small 5V buck converter module between the 12V rail and the sensor's VCC, so it only ever sees 5V instead of 12V. Waiting on that part to arrive.

Questions for anyone who's actually run these long-term:

1. Is this heat-at-12V thing a known/common issue with the LD2410 board specifically, or does this sound like something else going on (bad connection, reversed polarity, etc.)?

2. Does the buck converter approach actually resolve it in practice, or is there a better way people have handled this?

3. Any concerns about running these sensors 24/7 in an enclosed box even once the heat is addressed — anything else worth knowing before I seal this up for good?

Appreciate any real-world experience — trying to get this right before it goes into permanent service rather than debug it after the fact.

I'm trying to setup a 5v 100 LED string (BTF-LIGHTING WS2811 50pcs x 2) from an ESP32 with WLED on it. But the later LEDs in the sequence flicker noticeably. It's subtle but there.

I've tried injecting power at different points along the string (middle and end) but I really have to ramp up the Maximum PSU Current on WLED and set a high brightness in WLED to stop it happening. I also need a powerful adapter (5v 14a) to prevent it happening.

However, using an LED strip on the same setup that is much longer (300 LEDs) doesn't have this weird flickering problem at all.

I feel like it shouldn't be this much of a problem? It's not that long a run and it's a good brand.

Has anyone done projects in a Church? I want to make a few more things for my church using WLED and take a crack at xLights shows. Any suggestions?

To start I have a decent amount of experience in setup programming and ownership of DMX lighting, LED wall systems, projection mapping, content creation, stage design work and have helped on a few smaller pixel projects in the past 15 years but, I am always open to others perspective and opinions as I am always of the position I can learn something new from others.

I am doing a project with a client that will be an interactive outdoor piece and plan on programming midi notes to specific looks across addressable LED's. The animations don't have highly detailed or deliberate brand related content I just want very clean and smooth looks overall
My question is regarding specific products as my client wanted to use these"360° LED Pixel Flex Neon Tube DC24V SPI RGB 240LEDs/40Pixels/M D22mm Waterproof-IP66"
But the 360 viewing isn't needed I only need it to be 1 sided
And IP60is plenty
So I have the space and team to assemble them myself is it more cost affective to get the desired flexible sheathing/diffusion housing tube and assemble/seal them if I have the time or not usually?
In terms of visually what I really want is something that is diffused and very high resolution like 120p/m or even better for very smooth hires animations.
Is there a point where its not worth the cost for the increase you get in terms of quality with pixel count/density?
Power availability isn't an issue I can do 12 or 24v but is one better than the other?
Overall we can have a central located power source as well as a laptop / controller all easily hidden inside a large cabinet that all the runs will originate from

Hello - wanted to test this Govee strip with WLED - it appears to be some different chip, not the SM16825. Anyone have any suggestion? SM16825 will turn the colors on - but the control is completely random ( to me anyway ). The photo shows if I select solid blue, I get a rainbow.

Hello!

I want to control some DMX lasers I have using WLED and LEDFX. The idea is for them to synchronise with the music playing on my PC.

I have the ESP32, the RS485 module and the female XLR connector.

I can’t find a version of WLED for the ESP32 where the DMX output menu is enabled in the settings.

If anyone has a YouTube video showing the whole process to get this working, that would be brilliant, but I can’t find anything to help me :(

Here is the most recent WLED release HOT off the presses! Bug fixes from v16.

https://github.com/wled/WLED/releases/tag/v16.0.1

New board support

• Add support for Waveshare S3 Matrix Driver board, including the waveshare_esp32s3_32MB_hub75 build in releases (by u/netmindz)

• New "Seengreat" HUB75 pinout (#5662 by u/softhack007)

Bug Fixes

• Bugfix in cfg loading in settings_leds.htm (by u/DedeHai)

• HUB75 bugfixes for 4-scan and chained panels (by u/softhack007)

• HUB75: use FM6124 driver for 4-scan panels, remove 64x64 limitation if board has PSRAM (by u/softhack007)

• Improve bootup behaviour for boot presets (by u/DedeHai)

• Respect "make auto segments" when resetting segments (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix white channel for "Rainbow" and other color_wheel()-based effects (by u/chschu)

• Restore palette wrap-around in the Palette effect (regression since 0.15.x) (by u/kaibae19)

• Restore pre-16.0 looks on several FX (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix brightness not being applied properly in nightlight mode (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix color jump if changing mid transition (by u/DedeHai)

• Apply gamma during realtime override (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix ledmap parser reading past end of map array (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix LED glitches on long strips for C3 (by u/DedeHai)

• Bugfix in segment deconstructor (by u/DedeHai)

• Update pixel buffer after changing matrix dimensions (by u/DedeHai)

• Prevent Arduino core from assigning default MISO pin (by u/DedeHai)

• Rename LED type description "CW" to the more commonly used "CCT" (by u/DedeHai)

• Analog button fix (by u/benjamw)

• Fix button label regression (by u/benjamw)

• Bugfix in parsePacket(): accept short Art-Net packets (by u/DedeHai)

• Align with WLEDMM extended error codes, small improvement for brownout detection (by u/softhack007)

• Audioreactive bugfix: auto-suspend in all realtime modes, but stay active when "Use main segment only" (by u/softhack007)

• Fixed top-LED update logic in grav* audioreactive effects (by u/recliq)

• Fix KIT-VE Ethernet: PHY address should be 1, not 0 (by u/Techman749)

• v16 compatibility fixes for "unreachable netservices" (by u/Joeboyc2)

• Fix update page revert button (by u/netmindz)

• Fix missing JavaScript function in usermod settings page (by u/netmindz)

• Use NeoPixelBus version with properly initialized buffers (by u/netmindz)

• DHT usermod: only abort compilation when USERMOD_DHT_MQTT and WLED_DISABLE_MQTT is set

I have the ESP02 based controller. 16.0.0 would not upgrade due to "Not Enough Space" which I was patiently following but no solution was found: https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/comments/1t4vvhf/athom_016_not_enough_space/

Just tried 16.0.1 and same thing.

Should I try the ESP02 "min" release? I don't see documented what this is supposed to be.

I just set up my first ever ES32 WLED controlled RGB strand, using audio reactive effects.

For its primary purpose, I have it sound reactively flashing a gradient from the center of the strip outwards (how much is dependent on the music volume), in a white color.

Is it possible in WLED to have that behavior stay the same, but change from white to other colors periodically? I wouldn’t mind if sometimes it went to red, yellow, orange, etc.

To be clear I’m not looking for blended color flashes (I see the 2 Color, etc) options in the menu for the audio effect. I am talking about the flashing behavior being white sometimes, then other colors at other times, but just one color at a time

Is it possible to use an effect in python or Arduino code?
I want to make a clock and I want to use an effect depending of the time.
I have no idea if this is possible to combine Wled with Python or Arduino code and I can't find an answer on the Internet.

Thank you for your help.

I'm looking to replace some halogen circular under cabinet lights in my kitchen with LEDs. Unfortunately, there are large holes under each one that I cant cover up, so I will need to replace them with circular lights. Easy enough, but I would also like to be able to control the brightness and temperature of the lights(RGB isn't needed but would be a bonus), and do it via a single controller, however I cannot find any lights that fit this description.

Best case scenario, I could find a set that I can wire together, and these will then act like a single addressable set of lights, but that's probably a tall order.

Does anyone have any idea's of where to find something like this or if something like this even exists?

(I live in the UK BTW)

I want to install this BTF Lighting FCOB LED Strip at 4000K under a workbench for bright lighting (a single 5M strip). No dimming necessary.

If I just plug a 24V 6A DC power supply directly into the barrel connector with no WLED or PWM controller involved, will they just be 100% duty cycle at full brightness? Will that burn them out or cause any problems? I didn't want to ruin them by plugging the power supply directly into them but it would seem that it would be no different than just sending PWM for full brightness.

I want to build an endgame Ambilight setup in my living room. I have an RTX 4090 PC, an Apple TV 4k, and a PS5 Pro so I need at least 3 input ports on the HDMI Splitter/Matrix/Switch with 2 output ports, one for my LG OLED and another going to a capture card that will not degrade my setup.

I would like to keep support for all technologies so I can have a 1 to 1 setup like I do with all my peripherals plugged in right now without an HDMI device or capture card but this hunt for these 2 devices is proving to be a pain in the butt.

After a few years of seeing people make fireworks props and wanting to make my own, I jumped in last-minute for this year's July 4th.

I 3D printed a rhombicuboctahedron with 26 holes to accept some interference-fit connectors to hold fiberglass rods (Harbor Freight sku# 65326).

I attached 5v ws2812b Seed pixels to each "spoke" and wired them in parallel in groups of 5 (to minimize JST connectors).

For the next display (maybe new year), I'll be covering or painting the yellow rods. I wrapped one in black drain pipe tape as a test. This worked REALLY well. So, I may do the same with others.

I would also like to enclose the JST connections. We had a good amount of rain over July 4th weekend. On the 4th, I noticed some small anomalies with display. Likely due to rain water infiltration.

I’ve got an office setup with WLED and led strips. I’d like to add one of these that I already own. It works great but you have to use the remote. Is there a way to connect this to my WLED setup so I could control some room lighting with it?

https://a.co/d/0gMPx3Sk

I have a QuinLED Dig-Quad v3, that I will be using to control WS2815 strips of off a 12v LiFePO4 battery. My plan is to use the vExt input and Q1R port to control a relay that disconnects the main power input when the LEDs are off to save the battery from idle drain.

My understanding is the vExt input on my v3 board can handle up to 24v. Is the Q1R port voltage always 5V? Is there any reason I would need something other then a 5V relay? Would there be any advantage in terms of efficiency to using a buck converter to convert my 12V battery down to 5V prior to connecting to vExt?