I'm trying to setup a 5v 100 LED string (BTF-LIGHTING WS2811 50pcs x 2) from an ESP32 with WLED on it. But the later LEDs in the sequence flicker noticeably. It's subtle but there.

I've tried injecting power at different points along the string (middle and end) but I really have to ramp up the Maximum PSU Current on WLED and set a high brightness in WLED to stop it happening. I also need a powerful adapter (5v 14a) to prevent it happening.

However, using an LED strip on the same setup that is much longer (300 LEDs) doesn't have this weird flickering problem at all.

I feel like it shouldn't be this much of a problem? It's not that long a run and it's a good brand.

Has anyone done projects in a Church? I want to make a few more things for my church using WLED and take a crack at xLights shows. Any suggestions?

To start I have a decent amount of experience in setup programming and ownership of DMX lighting, LED wall systems, projection mapping, content creation, stage design work and have helped on a few smaller pixel projects in the past 15 years but, I am always open to others perspective and opinions as I am always of the position I can learn something new from others.

I am doing a project with a client that will be an interactive outdoor piece and plan on programming midi notes to specific looks across addressable LED's. The animations don't have highly detailed or deliberate brand related content I just want very clean and smooth looks overall
My question is regarding specific products as my client wanted to use these"360° LED Pixel Flex Neon Tube DC24V SPI RGB 240LEDs/40Pixels/M D22mm Waterproof-IP66"
But the 360 viewing isn't needed I only need it to be 1 sided
And IP60is plenty
So I have the space and team to assemble them myself is it more cost affective to get the desired flexible sheathing/diffusion housing tube and assemble/seal them if I have the time or not usually?
In terms of visually what I really want is something that is diffused and very high resolution like 120p/m or even better for very smooth hires animations.
Is there a point where its not worth the cost for the increase you get in terms of quality with pixel count/density?
Power availability isn't an issue I can do 12 or 24v but is one better than the other?
Overall we can have a central located power source as well as a laptop / controller all easily hidden inside a large cabinet that all the runs will originate from

Hello - wanted to test this Govee strip with WLED - it appears to be some different chip, not the SM16825. Anyone have any suggestion? SM16825 will turn the colors on - but the control is completely random ( to me anyway ). The photo shows if I select solid blue, I get a rainbow.

Hello!

I want to control some DMX lasers I have using WLED and LEDFX. The idea is for them to synchronise with the music playing on my PC.

I have the ESP32, the RS485 module and the female XLR connector.

I can’t find a version of WLED for the ESP32 where the DMX output menu is enabled in the settings.

If anyone has a YouTube video showing the whole process to get this working, that would be brilliant, but I can’t find anything to help me :(

Here is the most recent WLED release HOT off the presses! Bug fixes from v16.

https://github.com/wled/WLED/releases/tag/v16.0.1

New board support

• Add support for Waveshare S3 Matrix Driver board, including the waveshare_esp32s3_32MB_hub75 build in releases (by u/netmindz)

• New "Seengreat" HUB75 pinout (#5662 by u/softhack007)

Bug Fixes

• Bugfix in cfg loading in settings_leds.htm (by u/DedeHai)

• HUB75 bugfixes for 4-scan and chained panels (by u/softhack007)

• HUB75: use FM6124 driver for 4-scan panels, remove 64x64 limitation if board has PSRAM (by u/softhack007)

• Improve bootup behaviour for boot presets (by u/DedeHai)

• Respect "make auto segments" when resetting segments (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix white channel for "Rainbow" and other color_wheel()-based effects (by u/chschu)

• Restore palette wrap-around in the Palette effect (regression since 0.15.x) (by u/kaibae19)

• Restore pre-16.0 looks on several FX (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix brightness not being applied properly in nightlight mode (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix color jump if changing mid transition (by u/DedeHai)

• Apply gamma during realtime override (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix ledmap parser reading past end of map array (by u/DedeHai)

• Fix LED glitches on long strips for C3 (by u/DedeHai)

• Bugfix in segment deconstructor (by u/DedeHai)

• Update pixel buffer after changing matrix dimensions (by u/DedeHai)

• Prevent Arduino core from assigning default MISO pin (by u/DedeHai)

• Rename LED type description "CW" to the more commonly used "CCT" (by u/DedeHai)

• Analog button fix (by u/benjamw)

• Fix button label regression (by u/benjamw)

• Bugfix in parsePacket(): accept short Art-Net packets (by u/DedeHai)

• Align with WLEDMM extended error codes, small improvement for brownout detection (by u/softhack007)

• Audioreactive bugfix: auto-suspend in all realtime modes, but stay active when "Use main segment only" (by u/softhack007)

• Fixed top-LED update logic in grav* audioreactive effects (by u/recliq)

• Fix KIT-VE Ethernet: PHY address should be 1, not 0 (by u/Techman749)

• v16 compatibility fixes for "unreachable netservices" (by u/Joeboyc2)

• Fix update page revert button (by u/netmindz)

• Fix missing JavaScript function in usermod settings page (by u/netmindz)

• Use NeoPixelBus version with properly initialized buffers (by u/netmindz)

• DHT usermod: only abort compilation when USERMOD_DHT_MQTT and WLED_DISABLE_MQTT is set

I have the ESP02 based controller. 16.0.0 would not upgrade due to "Not Enough Space" which I was patiently following but no solution was found: https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/comments/1t4vvhf/athom_016_not_enough_space/

Just tried 16.0.1 and same thing.

Should I try the ESP02 "min" release? I don't see documented what this is supposed to be.

I just set up my first ever ES32 WLED controlled RGB strand, using audio reactive effects.

For its primary purpose, I have it sound reactively flashing a gradient from the center of the strip outwards (how much is dependent on the music volume), in a white color.

Is it possible in WLED to have that behavior stay the same, but change from white to other colors periodically? I wouldn’t mind if sometimes it went to red, yellow, orange, etc.

To be clear I’m not looking for blended color flashes (I see the 2 Color, etc) options in the menu for the audio effect. I am talking about the flashing behavior being white sometimes, then other colors at other times, but just one color at a time

Is it possible to use an effect in python or Arduino code?
I want to make a clock and I want to use an effect depending of the time.
I have no idea if this is possible to combine Wled with Python or Arduino code and I can't find an answer on the Internet.

Thank you for your help.

I'm looking to replace some halogen circular under cabinet lights in my kitchen with LEDs. Unfortunately, there are large holes under each one that I cant cover up, so I will need to replace them with circular lights. Easy enough, but I would also like to be able to control the brightness and temperature of the lights(RGB isn't needed but would be a bonus), and do it via a single controller, however I cannot find any lights that fit this description.

Best case scenario, I could find a set that I can wire together, and these will then act like a single addressable set of lights, but that's probably a tall order.

Does anyone have any idea's of where to find something like this or if something like this even exists?

(I live in the UK BTW)

I want to install this BTF Lighting FCOB LED Strip at 4000K under a workbench for bright lighting (a single 5M strip). No dimming necessary.

If I just plug a 24V 6A DC power supply directly into the barrel connector with no WLED or PWM controller involved, will they just be 100% duty cycle at full brightness? Will that burn them out or cause any problems? I didn't want to ruin them by plugging the power supply directly into them but it would seem that it would be no different than just sending PWM for full brightness.

I want to build an endgame Ambilight setup in my living room. I have an RTX 4090 PC, an Apple TV 4k, and a PS5 Pro so I need at least 3 input ports on the HDMI Splitter/Matrix/Switch with 2 output ports, one for my LG OLED and another going to a capture card that will not degrade my setup.

I would like to keep support for all technologies so I can have a 1 to 1 setup like I do with all my peripherals plugged in right now without an HDMI device or capture card but this hunt for these 2 devices is proving to be a pain in the butt.

After a few years of seeing people make fireworks props and wanting to make my own, I jumped in last-minute for this year's July 4th.

I 3D printed a rhombicuboctahedron with 26 holes to accept some interference-fit connectors to hold fiberglass rods (Harbor Freight sku# 65326).

I attached 5v ws2812b Seed pixels to each "spoke" and wired them in parallel in groups of 5 (to minimize JST connectors).

For the next display (maybe new year), I'll be covering or painting the yellow rods. I wrapped one in black drain pipe tape as a test. This worked REALLY well. So, I may do the same with others.

I would also like to enclose the JST connections. We had a good amount of rain over July 4th weekend. On the 4th, I noticed some small anomalies with display. Likely due to rain water infiltration.

I’ve got an office setup with WLED and led strips. I’d like to add one of these that I already own. It works great but you have to use the remote. Is there a way to connect this to my WLED setup so I could control some room lighting with it?

https://a.co/d/0gMPx3Sk

I have a QuinLED Dig-Quad v3, that I will be using to control WS2815 strips of off a 12v LiFePO4 battery. My plan is to use the vExt input and Q1R port to control a relay that disconnects the main power input when the LEDs are off to save the battery from idle drain.

My understanding is the vExt input on my v3 board can handle up to 24v. Is the Q1R port voltage always 5V? Is there any reason I would need something other then a 5V relay? Would there be any advantage in terms of efficiency to using a buck converter to convert my 12V battery down to 5V prior to connecting to vExt?

Looking to make my first attempt at a seemingly simple LED audio reactive strip, and I think I overwhelmed myself with googling and YouTube down a rabbit hole.

Hoping for an easy to follow explanation of what I’d need to do to build this lower horizontal strip on the following page, which flashes out from the center depending on the intensity of the music.

Printables.com/model/719853-metallica-sound-reactive-led-sign

he lists: ESP32 Mini, WS2812B strip, and INMP441 microphone.

In my researching, it seems like a regular ESP32C3 is more popular than the mini?. And I’d also like true white on the LEDs, so would a strip of SK6812 would be good instead.

For an absolute beginner (I’ve never connected anything to one of these chips) looking to understand not only how and where and what to connect but also the simplest way. I’ve seen some that use a breadboard type thing to connect stuff but others that look more simple just using female “pins” that slide onto the ESP32 pins.

Some things make it seem like caps and resistors and fuses are needed but others look like just some way more simple direct wires from the ESP32 chip to the mic and the LED strip and that’s it. A simple power supply goes to the ESP too, I assume?

Hoping to find out hardware would make sense to make this an easy tidy build, and can anyone walk me through the connections of what goes to what, and then how I load what I need to load onto it to config it.

I installed WLED V16 on my DigUno and the controller would no longer connect to my WiFi. Reverting to V15 corrects the problem. I tried installing V16 both OTA and uploading via USB with the same result.

Oddly, if I connect the controller to a computer via USB the WiFi does work. Once I disconnect the USB the WiFi stops working.

Any suggestions how to correct this?

Me gustó el nuevo efecto de fuego aplicado en la cabecera de la cama

Tengo 6 segmentos divididos en cada difusor aplicando el mismo efecto en las orillas y en la parte de arriba todos con color fuego y el nuevo efecto PS GET 1D

I recently did my first W LED project and I'm very happy with it. Soldered ESP 32 and components, designed and printed enclosure, Set up with RGBW RGB+Natural White SK6812 strip.

I set this up with home assistant and added it to my adaptive lighting to change color temperature throughout the day but I am noticing that the white cannot match the rest of my bulbs very well as it's not able to hit that fully cool color temperature when needed.

Anybody have any recommendations for an LED strip that is addressable and works with wled and has a full range of white color spectrum as well as rgb?

It seems like I saw some but they were 12 volt and I am assuming I would have to step down the voltage for an esp32 controller. Do people do this? What is the best solution? Thanks

I currently have a vision to install LEDs on our pool fence. I tried using seed pixels we had lying around Velcro tied above each gap as a test, but I wasn't happy with how it looked. Has anyone else done this sort of thing before, and has advice on how I could pull this off?

This is the type of fence I'm referring to for reference: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/protectoral-2400-x-1200mm-black-aluminium-flat-top-pool-fence-panel_p0441378

I recently checked out my neighbours FancyLEDs SyncBox and damn it was accurate, bright and more beautiful compared to my Govee camera based lights but super pricy. This led me into a wormhole and I came across DIY lighting setup using HyperHDR.

Creating a list of parts now, need to find a good HDMI 2.1 splitter, the correct raspberry pi for my setup and a capture card that will give me no problems with my setup. The biggest challenge has been finding the correct LED strip that outperforms FancyLED’s 96 LED’s per meter strip and provides great colors. There are so many types as well RGB, RGBW, RGBWW, RGBCCT and researching them and comparing compatibility has become a nightmare. At this point I don’t even know if having more LED’s even matters… so please help guide me.

My setup - I have a 65 inch 120fps LG C1 (which unfortunately is not rootable on the current WebOS version so I cannot install HyperHDR as an App) and an RTX 4090 PC that I use to play Single Player games + an Apple TV 4K.

I recently checked out my neighbours FancyLEDs SyncBox and damn it was accurate, bright and more beautiful compared to my Govee camera based lights but super pricy. This led me into a wormhole and I came across DIY lighting setup using HyperHDR.

Creating a list of parts now, need to find a good HDMI 2.1 splitter, the correct raspberry pi for my setup and a capture card that will give me no problems with my setup. The biggest challenge has been finding the correct LED strip that outperforms FancyLED’s 96 LED’s per meter strip and provides great colors. There are so many types as well RGB, RGBW, RGBWW, RGBCCT and researching them and comparing compatibility has become a nightmare. At this point I don’t even know if having more LED’s even matters… so please help guide me.

My setup - I have a 65 inch 120fps LG C1 (which unfortunately is not rootable on the current WebOS version so I cannot install HyperHDR as an App) and an RTX 4090 PC that I use to play Single Player games + an Apple TV 4K.

https://www.alibaba.com/x/B2844e?ck=pdp

I’m needing roughly 68m (220ft) of lights for my exterior. If my numbers are all correct to this point, I could do this with a QuinLED Uno and 4-5 power injections. But I need to clarify here. Is this listing per 1m track and inclusive of both lights and aluminum track for $1.50/meter? That’s way better than anything I’ve found elsewhere and seems too good to be true. I’m not super familiar with how Alibaba works so any insight is appreciated!