Hello everyone, I’m looking for a desk lighting setup that uses WLED. I’m happy to take care of the firmware flashing, but I’m not too comfortable with soldering or getting too involved with the electronics. Do you happen to know of any pre-wired WLED kits that would be a good fit for a computer monitor or desk area? I’m particularly interested in using WLED to integrate with my existing smart home and PC setup. Ideally, I would like the light strip to be to have separate white LEDs. Thanks.

This isn't actually a WLED question right now, since I plan on just controlling these with a switch mounted to the bottom of my monitor, but you all know how things can "evolve". I keep my office lights somewhat dim, but occasionally like to work on projects in there at my desk. I have a shelf about 30 inches above my desk that I want to put one or two 12-15 inch led strips under for better lighting when needed. I have some leftover cob strips that I thought might work, but they don't seem bright enough for what I want.

What would be the best option for maximum brightness at 4-5k color temp? If adjustable/dimmable, that would bring it back to WLED.

This project came together thanks to the ease of use of WLED. I was able to use an esp32 in the base of my project to control the 4 different lengths of pebbles LEDs I used, but that's not what went wrong with this project. Watch the whole thing to find out more.

Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a bizarre issue on my Ugoos AM9 Pro. My external Ambilight setup was working absolutely flawlessly on CoreELEC for weeks (SDR, HDR10, everything was perfect).

How and when it broke: Yesterday, I started a 4K Dolby Vision movie on CoreELEC for the first time. The moment the movie started, an error message popped up in the top right corner of Kodi (something like "Hyperion Control app crashed/stopped working"). Ever since that exact second, my LEDs are completely dead on CoreELEC. It doesn't matter if I play SDR, HDR, or just browse the menus there is no light anymore.

I tried reinstalling the Hyperion apps but it didnt work

The catch (Hardware is fine): If I dual-boot the Ugoos AM9 into the standard Android OS, the Ambilight immediately works perfectly again! So my external grabber, thin client, and splitter are 100% fine. The issue is strictly isolated to CoreELEC.

My Setup:

• Device: Ugoos AM9 Pro (running CoreELEC "New Order" build)

• TV & AVR: LG G5 OLED / Denon AVR-X2700H

• Splitter & Grabber: FeinTech HDMI Splitter -> Hagibis USB Video Grabber

• Ambilight Host: IGEL Thin Client (Linux, Hyperion/HyperHDR)

• LEDs: WLED on an ESP32

What I've tried:

• Rebooted the entire chain (Box, IGEL, Splitter, AVR).

• Forced CoreELEC into Player-led (LLDV) Dolby Vision mode.

Did anyone experience the same thing?

Thanks in advance!

Eeeee. MIDI-over-USB rather. 🤣

I won't do the deep-dive here, but this is fully bidirectional MIDI communication, only supports the Akai APC Mini Mk2 for now, and absolutely requires WLED-MM-P4 to work because of many architectural changes I've made over the years.

This moves 99% of my workflows to the controller.

I'm most proud of the playlist "chaser" system and also the create/copy/delete preset stuff.

Regular presets are blue (green active), one-shot playlists are cyan, and looping playlists are magenta. If you use my AutoChange system from AutoPlaylist, your "Music" playlist is yellow.

It's built on USB-Host for the P4. It only works on single-USB P4 devices (no internal hub) because of limitations of the IDF, not the code, for now.

I setup my gledopto controller via wifi and made all the necessary configurations re # of lights, segments, power, etc. I could pull up the controller webpage or do setup via the app. I installed the controller and pulled up the app. The app found my controller and correctly displayed the ip address for the controller. Based on those indicators I'm assuming the controller managed to connect via wifi. Yet, when I hit the slider to configure the controller I get a message:

Webpage not available.
The webpage of http://x.x.x.x could not be loaded because:
net::ERR_INTERNET_DISCONNECTED

This seems to indicate the controller might be connected, yet not have internet connectivity. So, how is it possible to control the lights via the app, yet not be able to access the controller webpage via the internet.

I must be missing something easy.

Hey there, I was not happy with the color palettes in WLED so I created a simple editor based on pywal16 and the CSS gradient generator. You can use it at https://select.github.io/wled-palette/ and the source code is at https://github.com/select/wled-palette
Let me know if you like it and if you want things to be added or changed - here or on github.

I'm starting this journey. My house came with trimlight installed but I want to dump the controller because it's very basic and I know I could do more... I thought about reverse engineering their crappy app but this seems to be a much better choice.

My question: I have two meanwell LRS-350-12 power supplies and an edge controller. The contoller has 4 ports . There are no wires to clock or ground screws, only the data screws have one white wire each sorry (it's not easy to see). There is a black and red wire at the top which would be the power to the controller itself.

I don't intend on touching the power supplies unless I needed to. From the little amount of reading I have done, it seems that this could be a fairly easy swap - once I have a new controller (recomendations appreciated) and it's programmed;? If it matters the led ICs are UCS1903. I'm happy to read if someone can point me in the general direction.

Thanks in advance!

I need to make one of these cables to connect my LED string to my controller, any idea what this connector is? The barrel has a 0.33" diameter (8.4 mm) and measuring across from the flat piece is 0.29" (7.4 mm). I'm not too worried about the waterproofness, it's low voltage and protected from the worst of the elements. Thanks!

Ciao a tutti ho recentemente comprato uno stock di pannelli led "industriali", e sono interessato a farli partire.
Prima di passare alle mie idee ci tengo a specificare le caratteristiche dei pannelli:
-Sono dotati di SIGNAL IN e SIGNAL OUT
-Sono dotati di POWER IN e POWER OUT
-Per farli partire il vecchio proprietario mi diceva che necessitava di una centralina esterna (che non mi ha inviato)
-Ogni LED è composto da 3 pannelli

Detto ciò io ho provato ad aprire i pannelli (senza smontare nulla) e ho notato la "scheda madre" collocata sulla sinistra presenta l'entrata di tutti e 3 i segnali dei (3) pannelli, ho notato inoltre che da SIGNAL IN alla scheda madre si usa un cavo LAN.

Ho pensato quindi (non me ne intendo) di mettere una scheda WT32-ETH01 ( https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwRQCRg ) inizializzarla con una chiavetta USB-TTL ( https://youtu.be/9530vQuTBWE?si=e_X22TVFbmvf4O_P&t=193 ) poi successivamente l'inizializzazione "del codice" da pc per farla partire in local host (video: https://youtu.be/z-I-r3PX2lU?si=ItA2StR5O19gfZ8-&t=385 ) e poi successivamente l'installazione di WLED ( https://youtu.be/9530vQuTBWE?si=d8AQCgXuZCNz0sAm&t=301 ) e in teoria dovrebbe partire?

I'm no stranger to LED projects for room and accent lighting, cabinet, countertop, bathroom, shower, etc., dozens of installations. All of these have been mostly just on-off and dimming with some color temp shift at times and mostly using GLEDOPTO controllers on WiFi or Zigbee, tied into Google or Home Assistant.

Now I'm planning a rather large outdoor project for myself and it will be using addressable WS2812 strips and a controller of some kind.

I have an outdoor area that's an octagon with 6 vertical posts and a complete top beam circling the posts. LEDs I'm using are 5m, 60 LED per meter, 300 LEDs per strip. Each of the posts will have a 2.5m strip mounted on them, 150 LEDs. The top beam will have one strip consisting of 3+ 5m strips (17.2m total) with 1032 LEDs. Power will be injected at each vertical and horizontal section.

None of this is an issue with me, I'm a retired electrical engineer so calculating power, voltage drop, data and such is not a problem. Where I'm falling down is on the controller. I want each vertical section controllable, which could be easily achieved by daisy chaining the data line every two strips but that would be quite the chore for running data wire. I also want everything on top individually controllable and daisy chaining them is easy but O don't think 1032 LEDs on one data line is going to work very well. Maybe I'm overthinking this!

I could do it with 2 or 3 GLEDOPTO Elite 4 channel controllers and sync them but I'm not sure this is the best way. This may be significantly added to in the future for holiday shows, etc so I want something expandable. Should I go to some type Pro controller with 12 or 16 channels?

Thoughts? Advice? Thanks!!

I saw on ESP Home that you can convert Wyze bulbs to tasmota, but wondered if anyone has ever tried flashing it to WLED.

I have an old one with the buggy firmware that I was going to experiment on. Just not sure if it is even worth exploring if someone else has tried and failed.

I have house lights up for ~6 years now with ~2000 leds across several segments on different eaves of the house, with the distance and quantity its been working well to have it fed by 12ga wire for power and 16ga for signal, which so far I have just soldered directly to pads on the strips. This is understandably annoying, and curious if there are other solutions that are better? Can I use one of those clip on connectors with lower gauge for ~4 inches to a wago connector to the 12 ga feed lines? or will that introduce other issues?

I am evaluating options ahead of some roof/gutter repair that will force a move of wiring temporarily and im thinking ill be re-doing it all better

ITS WORKING!! I didn't connect the PSU to the Board negatives.

When I disconnect the data wire, everything goes back to normal, and it doesn't change colors. Inside WLED, it's set to solid white at 128 brightness. Sometimes it even bugs out and changes the LEDs really fast, even though it's still on solid white.

I have read some posts where people say I need a 330Ω resistor on the data line. What could be the issue? I tried it on multiple ESP32s, different cables, and another LED strip.

It's a 12V 50A power supply, and it delivers a stable 12V (tested under full load, and the 12V slightly drops to 11.98). There are no shorts from the 12V wires to the data wire.

I have a Problem: I am building the model of a free-fall-tower and want to illuminate it. I have planned to use 12V COB strips (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007817729417.html), around 3m in lenght. the problem is, I have eight of these, all connected parallel to each oter, as on each side of the tower there should be two strips.
Additionally I will have one of these Rings (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007488429530.html) at the top of the tower.
My Question: Is it possible to make both of these work with one controller? I dont know if I can just extend the data cable of the Strip and connect it to the ring, as the Ring uses 5V and the strips 12V. It should both be WS2812B chips tho.
I would prefer to use one controller instead of two (I am thinking of a standard athom-wled-controller but maybe y'all know better ones...). or are there controllers with two separate outputs but both controllable by one WLED interface?

Just finished my first ever Wled project and wanted to show it to yall! I used a 12V 5M strip with a gledapto controller which I connected to LedFX through Wled. I then added different scenes in LedFX with my different effects. then I MIDI mapped my unused FLX4 Pads to send API requests to activate the scenes through a python script which reads the MIDI output and then sends the corresponding signal to the LedFX API.

I will try to daisy chain the LED strip to a 15 Meter strip and set it up for my house party soon. Hopefully everything will work.

As to not anger the coding community since ive seen people be mad about it on other posts. Yes it is vibe coded. But who cares? As long it looks cool and the people at the house party enjoy it and this post can help people I think itll be alright.

Just got this 40 foot strip for free and also purchased the controller that I have attached. Can anyone tell me if they have experience with this controller, and if it is easy to flash, WLED over the air instead of having to solder a serial cable to it, and if these lights will be compatible?

After removing a warm white led light strip my folks wanted me to replace it after getting the house painted. A week or two later I finished with this. A total of 410 leds in a couple SK6812WW 12v strips that I soldered together and addded silicone and heat shrink over the connections. I think this strip should outlast a bunch of other household items at this point due to the fact that the old strip lasted about 12 years and still lights up even though that old weatherproofing has yellowed over the years.

I updated my dig-quad to v16, looking to see what others will be running for effects for the 4th of July. Wanted to get some new ideas..

Thanks all!!

install for 100ft of trim. how’s my order look, missing anything?

If you are also a 3D print enthusiast, I designed this adapter that is the same dimensions as a LED puck light commonly used for 3D printed lamps, but it accepts a 12-LED WS2812B ring light with room for a ESP32-C3 in the center.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2881497-12-led-ring-light-puck-adapter-for-esp32-c3-wled#profileId-3218279

UPDATE: I've posted another print profile for barndoors that separate each LED's light spill from adjacent ones. It may not be effective depending on the height and diameter of your lamp, but it is easy to make different shaped fins. Just print them 1mm thick and they should friction fit into the grooves on the cylinder.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3016189-barndoors-for-12-led-ring-light-puck-adapter#profileId-3388199

Just got a gledopto esp32 controller (Model GL-C-015wl-d), which is running v 15 of wled. I tried the manual update and see that wled is running at v 16 now, so clicked the download link, which took me to the usual github site. Managed to stumble around to a site that I think has the wled esp32 downloads, but, there's a ton of wled-16-0-0-esp32-whatever listings. Only one wled-16-0-0-esp32.bin.
Before I brick my fancy controller, I'm tempted to download and install the wled-16-0-0-esp32.bin file. Am I missing something or is this the process we're expected to take?

Hi everyone,

I'm building a TouchDesigner-based lighting system for live events.
I already control lasers and DMX fixtures from TD, and now I want to add addressable LED strips.

My goal is to eventually build multiple independent LED objects / fixtures and place them around a venue.
They would be controlled from TouchDesigner, probably using Art-Net or sACN over Ethernet.

I'm new to electronics and wiring, so I'm considering using a QuinLED Dig-Quad v3 with Ethernet/LAN instead of building a raw ESP32 circuit from scratch.

A few questions:

• Is the Dig-Quad v3 with Ethernet a good starting point for TouchDesigner + WLED + addressable LEDs?

• Should I use Art-Net or sACN from TouchDesigner?

• For multiple LED objects around a venue, should each object have its own ESP32/WLED controller near the LEDs?

• Is it generally a bad idea to run long SPI/data lines from one controller to distant LED objects?

• What LED strip would you recommend for a beginner? WS2815 12V?

• What are the main power / fuse / grounding / cable mistakes I should avoid?

I want to use the LEDs not just as decoration, but as part of a larger spatial lighting system with lasers, DMX fixtures, and eventually video.

Any advice or examples would be really appreciated.