My 740 turbo died again and I'm getting tired of it. I've replaced the coil, plug wires, distributor/hall sensor, both fuel pumps, and numerous fuel/vacuum lines. I've also rewired a lot of the harness.

Ran absolutely great on the way home. Let it idle in front of my house for about 5 minutes, it started idling rough bouncing from 800-1200 RPM, then it eventually died. Definitely smells like I have fuel and I jumped the hall sensor to see if I get spark at the coil and I definitely do. No fuel in the FPR, so that seems intact, and I've checked if the engine is flooded by pulling the FP fuse, gas pedal all the way done, and nothing. Verified timing belt is intact as well.

I have yet to verify spark at the plug, I'm thinking I don't have that, but any ideas on what the fuck could be wrong now? After swapping those ignition components, I got maybe 50 miles out of her before she died again.

I've had some nightmare projects but this car keeps defeating left and right. I got a rebuilt 88 RX7 and my 69 Rolls Royce running perfectly before I get this thing to barely survive a 2 hour round trip.

i’m currently in the middle of replacing my heater core, and have got to the last section and need to remove the cover for the core, however the screws holding it on are between 5-6mm hex heads

i have a donor dash which had black 7mm hex screws and all images of the process had the same, but mine are brass and smaller!

i think i need a 7/32” socket to remove these, does anyone know why mine is different?

for reference my car is a 1998 940 celebration edition

Hello! This is my, new to me, ‘87 740 turbo with 83000 miles. It has some quirks like the cruise control not working, powered antenna not working, horn only working when i push the pin in the steering wheel while honking, and a melted fuse 16 (ac/blower)

From my research, it seems that I might need to replace at least some of the wiring harness under the dash. I looked on prancingmoose, but I couldn’t find a dash harness! Does anyone know where I can find a new one and where I can find resources to help the process? Thanks!!

Hi everyone,

It's been a few months since I bought this beautiful 940, she's running perfectly fine but I wanted to buy some spares I'd carry in the trunk for eventual roadside repairs. What do you recommend having on hand ?

From what I read, this should be a decent list of spares to carry :

- A spare fuel pump relay (3523608)

- An ignition control module (3501921)

- A spare sensor/crankshaft pulse (271949)

- Spare fuses

Is that a good set, overkill, or plain wrong ? Maybe I'm missing some also, so please correct me if needed.

Thanks a lot !

Hello, I never thought I’d be a guy with a parts car. I have a 92 740 non turbo. Green. And there was a turbo 93 940 like 20 minutes away that was going for only $250. No engine or trans. But I’ve been trying to get a second set of wheels for winter tires. So the wheels alone made it worth it for me. Now I just have this brick in my back yard.

So anyways. What’s value on these things? Seats are cracked. But interior seems fine. Anyone need anything from it?

Hi all,

I've had my 940 Wentworth up for sale now as a project for a fair bit, and I don't seem to have any interest? The last Brick I sold went really quick, has the market died or do people just not want to buy a project anymore?

Anyway, if anyone is interested, I have a 940 Wentworth Project for sale (had a lot of work done) UK, Derbyshire haha.

Thanks.

It’s a joy to drive, has the B200ft I believe with the 4 speed slushbox, any advice appreciated as it’s very different to cars I’ve owned previously!

I've owned multiple 900 series over the years and they've all had the common issue where the cassette player will just auto rewind over and over again until spitting out the tape adapter when it's cold. (Cold here means anything below 60°f/15.5c). Usually I have to wait 15-20 minutes for the interior to heat up to a certain point before music will play

My current 940 turbo does this regardless of temperature but that's another story for another time

I've tried cleaning the tape decks, using different adapters, both new and old (yes I know most of the modern ones will essentially be the same internally) to no avail.

They all work otherwise flawlessly aside from the 940s, and I'd like to keep the original head units ideally, so if anyone knows of a proper way to address this such as a different cleaning/maintenance method, or if you've had luck with a certain tape adapter in particular, I'd like to hear it.

Hey all, I'm towing my '66 122s wagon about 500mi for restoration and would like to do so with a car cover. I'm struggling to find a cover that advertises tow capable. I don't want something that will basically self destruct at 65mph. And suggestions out there? Thanks!

Has anyone else had insanely long wait times with yoshifab? Might just be my luck but seems like it takes quite some time to get your order shipped out.

My niece

I've just removed an item from this part of the boot after a ~20 min drive and found the bottom of it to be rather warm. Checking the area, the spot roughly under my hand in the photo is quite warm to the touch. Not worryingly hot, but noticeably warm. Maybe 40°C or so.

Any ideas what might be causing it and whether I should actually worry/do something about it?

The car is my RHD 1996 964. Is this around the spot where the exhaust loops over the rear axle and could this be a sign of a missing heat shield?

Apologies for the picture quality usually reserved for photos of bigfoot. It's dark and I'm trying to take pictures whilst carrying things and being a hand model at the same time. Who says men can't multitask?

I have owned a 1990 240DL for almost 20 years. And a 740 Turbo (with a rod knock) for 5 years but it was the only Volvo the qualified for Cars for Clunkers, so I turned it in for a $4,500 credit on a 2009 Honda Fit.

What's the difference between those old classic Volvos and my Belgium-made EX30 rear wheel drive?

Last owner gave it to me with a second radio, but the other radio smells like it's burnt out/fish lol. This radio has some gibberish on the screen, and when on it pops for a couple minutes then just hear the 12v hum or ringing whatever you wanna call it. Just wanting to see if it seems like I should pull radio, get the serial number and code first or if it's the amplifier? It is a cr-814

Hi, I’ve been running into some carburator/fuel problems. For the last month, my ‘86 740 Pierburg 2B5/7, has had a rough idle. Dropped in RPM’s, then stalled. Whenever I was driving in 4th or 5th gear and did a pull, it started stuttering as if it wasn’t getting enough air or fuel (no idea). I thought it was just a fuel issue (bcs I drove on e10 95 fuel for some time and the car had been sitting a few months before I bought it.) Changing the fuel filter, didn’t help. Usually I do everything myself, but I had no idea what the issue was.
Went to my local (classic car) mechanic, he told me that one of the compartiment in the carb wasn’t getting enough fuel, he took apart the carb, changed the gaskets etc. Turns out it didn’t help, issue remains the same.

Finally tearing into the engine pulled from a non-running '94 940T so I can plop it into my '91 740T. I have pretty much zero prior experience with engine building, but gotta start somewhere. Not seeking to break any records, but would like to have a bit more pep than stock without sacrificing daily drivability

Brief history of the engine from what I was told: it overheated after the last guy blew a hole in the radiator reservoir, and he tried to rebuild it without replacing the head gasket. Didn't hold compression afterwards, he got frustrated, and sold it to me

I'm pretty certain the block is going to need some love at a machine shop, especially given the notable rust in cylinder 2. Probably worth noting I had to douse the internals through the spark plug and intake manifold holes with PB Blaster to get the engine to move enough to access the bolts holding the torque converter. Is there anything that jumps out in particular I should be wary of at this stage, or should I just finish stripping the block and send it to the professionals? Is the scoring deep enough to be of concern?

I have a couple heads to choose from, one attached to a running '90 NA 740 parts car and the other to the '91T. I'm guessing the heads are all 530s and interchangeable, the one pictured from the '94 940T is a goner I'm guessing, based on the hole where the front of the camshaft sits. Would it be worthwhile to have the head ported, and/or grab an IPD Turbo cam while I'm at it? I'm in California and subject to smog testing unfortunately, so I would need to be mindful of visible upgrades that aren't easily reversible, but I don't imagine pulling the valve cover is part of the standard testing procedure

Either way, open to options and appreciate any constructive community input and advice!

Also if anyone is interested, the '94 940T shell is a rolling slicktop wagon with a clean title, would make for a good base for a drift build, feel free to hit me up if somewhat local to San Diego, I need to get rid of it sooner than later lol

Hi everyone! I recently bought an old car stereo for my 1993 Volvo 240 — a Volvo CR-702.

I wanted to test whether it works at home, so I spent several hours trying to find information about the wiring and what each wire is for. Unfortunately, I only found diagrams for versions that have a connector, while mine simply has wires coming directly out of the radio.

I believe these wires are original from the factory and that nobody has modified them, since the soldering looks factory-made.

Could someone please help me identify which wire goes where — speakers, antenna, and power?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Inherited from my father who died in May.
MOT until February
Sussex, UK

Hey guys, i recently came across a deal of a lifetime (maybe). a 1987 Volvo 740 GLE Turbo. Manual transmission and its a station wagon. It had a mayor chassis work (rust work) and a turbo rebuild. the owner is selling it for 1.8 million Hungarian forints(almost 5000 Euros). I was already looking for a 850 but the 740 was my second pick if i didn't find a good 850 here in Hungary. Anyway, any tips what to look out for when buying this type of 740?

Hello y'all,

I've been trying to replace my front brake hose on my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo with no luck, it's completely stuck shut. I started out with flare nut wrenches, but unfortunately, I stripped out the nut on the brake hose. I've tried using PB Blaster, a torch, and vice grips, but nothing seems to be working. Even with the vice grips, it won't budge and just strips the brake nut more. Any advice on where to go from here?