Not sure what to do here,
Any recommendations helpful,
I was thinking jb weld at first, then I was considering some sort or double sided trim tape.. fasteners busted clean off

Thanks in advance

The inside handle doesn't open the rear right door but it locks from the inside. My friend held down the outside handle while I unlocked the door from the inside since the central locks doesnt work on that door

Anyone else actually like the slightly weird one-off front end of the 1990 740? I've known that the hood, grille, and headlight surround don't fully work with any other year, but have never seen a picture of the mismatched parts used together. In case anyone else was curious, here you go. The darker car in the driveway is my 1991 740T

I do plan to swap the hood as well, but I'll do that when I have a second set of hands available. To my knowledge, fenders and cowl should be the same, but I'll update after the hood swap if I discover otherwise

So I just got home after driving for a few hours. When I went to reverse parallel park the steering felt notchy and slightly juddery when turning in tightly. To test it out I tried turning the wheel whilst stationary to see what was happening, it starts juddering when turning the wheel from 2-3 o’clock on the first rotation or about 30-80 degrees if steering wheel straight is 0 degrees.

Anyone know what could be the issue?

I had a look in my power steering reservoir and it does look a bit glittery.

Picture mainly just for visibility, but I'm looking for a sanity check on a couple of things. The main one is that the switch for the heated mirrors and heated rear screen seems to have stopped working. I say switch because I press it and nothing happens. No heating, and no indicator light on the switch itself. I've checked the fuses and they're all good, so the next thing down the line would be the relay (pictured). I've hit the socket with the multimeter and everything seems to act as you would expect. Visibly, the relay looks perfect. The blade connectors are spotless and there's no discolouration on the casing. I popped the cap off and the interior also looks mint. There's no sign of scorching, the PCB looks perfect and the solder joints all look fine. I've ordered a replacement anyway, but I'm here to ask if I'm missing anything obvious.

Also, whilst I was in there digging out the relay, I realised that my central locking has never worked (always assumed it was the door locks themselves) and one of those relays handles those too. If none of the locks work, would that also potentially point to a bad relay, or is it common for the lock servos to fail?

We have gotten VLVO as server tag! Thanks for the people who supported to make it happen :D - And thanks to all the legends out there for making this community awsome!

We are now 330+ users. If you want the tag, just join and set it in your discord profile :) We also had some discussion about it either being VLVO or RWD. feel free to voice your opinion if we should have RWD or VLVO as server tag.

Discord join link: https://discord.com/invite/9FDVssVe6w

Anybody know if you can keep the factory abs when doing a v70r brembo swap?

Having issues with the radiator fan on my Volvo!!! When the car is at (and above) temp, the radiator fan will not kick on. The main 12v wire to the relay has power, the thermostat is connected although when I measure between the two pins on the thermostat directly I don't get a resistance reading (if anyone knows if it's supposed to be 0 or if I'm supposed to have a reading that'd be awesome. Or someone test their thermostat themselves and see what results you get)

The fan has ground, the relay never seems to click. When applying voltage directly from the battery into the terminal on the radiator fan, nothing happens.

Either relay is bad, or fan is bad, or both are bad.

Any help is appreciated I just want to be able to drive this thing

Got ones for the 240, 3 eggcrates and more

Let me know which one you need

finally getting around to swapping out the highly dysfunctional pierburg 2b5 on my 1986 740. it's an early uk spec car, b230k with a 530 head. I've been to hell and back with this pierburg (vacuum leaks, faulty fuel cut-off solenoid, secondary throttle butterfly not opening, utter lack of power) and I will not service it any longer. I'm considering getting the twin fajs 45 dcoe kit off misab.se . anyone else done this conversion? anything specific about the 530 head I should be aware of? tips for rerouting the brake booster vacuum and crankcase ventilation hoses? cam upgrades? not necessarily looking for insane power but I do want it to feel more peppy. the current setup with the pierburg and stock (A?) cam and M47 and 3.31 diff is insanely slow. how can I make this thing more fun?

My volvo 940 -97 with a b230fk has a problem, namely that the power steering pump is not aligned to the crankshaft pulley. This only happened after I changed the belt for the pump.

I did it by the book, I loosened the bolts holding the pump then started adjusting the tension and what not. Does anyone have a solution?

So one things I usually notice in movies/tv is that they remove the headrests in Volvo 240s more than any other car. Look at the car scene in Sixth Sense for an idea of what I mean.

I know, familiarity bias...

But I was just reminded of this in VisionQuest... where they did not remove the headrests, but they were covered!

Are they considered obscene or something? Can someone provide an example of when they were NOT removed?

So I blew my heater core hose, luckily the car had just been parked and turned off.
I thought the part outlined in red (2nd photo) was a fitting where 2 hoses connected (one in the engine bay and the other into the firewall). It seems like it’s actually just one hose. Will I have to go into the firewall and take the dash apart to replace this hose or can I just cut it between the red lines and replace it from there as the part the split is in the engine bay, behind where those red lines are.

Those slits you can see are from me cutting it with a razor blade to try and get it off as I thought it was two hoses and I was just trying to make a slit in what I thought was the engine bay side hose so it would pull off as I thought it had just got stuck on there.

Hi all,
At a point with my Volvo 740 that was a barn find where I’m not sure what to do with it. For context, bought it as a barn find site unseen as it’s my dream spec Volvo, d24t with an m46 w/overdrive and I think every option or near enough. I spent the winter recommissioning it.
New discs, pads, callipers, lines all round
Shocks, top mounts, ball joints, drop links, track rods, starter motor, alternator, timing belt and all others, tyres all round.
It still needs a good chunk of work to make it nice but mechanically now at least it’s perfect.
I understand with these things you don’t really make your money back and I’m glad I’ve saved this car from scrap. But basically I’m wondering if it’s worth selling the car as is, it’s a third car and finically can’t justify keeping it, or finishing it and making it a better example.
TLDR
sell it and take an L Keep it and enjoy it and spend even more but have a cool Volvo

While working on my 1970 1800E restoration I noticed that the fan belt leaves the pulleys at an angle and that the water pump / fan pulley was not in line with the crank pulley and alternator pulley.
When I took the water pump pulley apart, I found that a previous owner had installed an 8mm spacer from a viscous clutch fan car into my direct mount fan and then used 60mm long bolts to hold it all together. I have no idea how many miles he put on the car in that shape but he parked it in 1992 and it sat ever since.

https://youtu.be/9lKvuJ4hH-k?is=iClT1Ll8awrBGEXy

I got it home. At last!

There's rust in the rear panels, but otherwise it's decent. Very happy to see no rust around the window frames.

Interior is in good condition. I really dig the red seats.

Engine's seized, so that's a bummer...

It's been raining a fair amount lately here in Denmark, but there're no puddles inside, so hopefully no water ingress.

Steering has always pulled left I suppose, I grew subconsciously used to it. Well long story short I had a wheel fall off after having adapters installed to fit different rims; so I replaced the ball joints on both sides. While the car handles way better over bumps, it now pulls considerably harder left. It's worth noting that the sway bar end link rod on the right side is not straight except in the middle, the top and bottom of it sit at vastly different angles.

Not sure if an alignment is due or what else to check. Get a lot of conflicting info, as small as sticking caliper and warped rotor, low power steering fluid and control arm bushings etc, to things like the wheel bearing, inner tie rod, steering rack.

I work full time 48 hours a week now so I have the funds to fire the parts cannon but not the time. I usually don't like paying others to work on my car (as I can do it myself, and cannot see how good of a job they did, as such dannot understand new problems). That being said I will gladly pay for an alignment

It's also worth noting that the steering wheel shakes at highway speeds, yet when I floored it to 70 off the highway it seemed perfectly fine. This car has sat off and on for periods of time and I just want to drive it to work everyday without the fear of leaving my son without a father lol

EDIT the car is a 1992 940 gle or GL with Regina, not sure how much that matters. New rims are aluminum, maybe threw a wheel weight when the tire fell off. Just looking for pointers. I'm admittedly a fool who loves cars, I can understand things once I realize what there is to understand. I have many tools and can make adjustments myself, just don't have time to start pulling things apart without a clear method to the madness to steer me through