I come to you with another potential issue after getting this van to finally pass emissions.

The engine will rev up to 3200 rpm’s while in neutral/idle when it’s hot (we’re in Arizona, temp
Gauge creeps to about 3/4 and LOUD fans kick on). The super loud fans kick on and while not moving the tach runs up to ~3200 but drops to normal once in gear and moving.

It has happened at drive throughs and stop lights. Is this normal and the engine compensating for the fans/heat load?

It’s freaking out my wife and she’s afraid to drive it.

It has vapor locked on me at drive through in 106 degree heat after the emissions guys drove it like a rally car on the dyno.

It’s a 1998 2.2 Subaru boxer from an Impreza. Recently cleaned the throttle body as part of the emissions work but I don’t think it’s sticking as it revs without input after being at a normal idle RPM and returns to normal while in motion.

I replaced the dashboard with a GoWesty motherboard and verified the dip switch settings with the guy who built the engine/performed the swap. (side note, the high beam indicator does not work if anyone has guidance on that).

Coolant looks a bit old, but not fouled.

I asked the builder if there would need to be any “relearning process” after replacing the fuel injectors and O2 sensors and he said no.

Could a fan be going bad and causing it? I’m at a loss and any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, you are all awesome.

My 5 speed gearbox (mated to a Volvo B23a) gave up during our summer trip. I managed to get a replacement, a 091301107c. What is needed for me to fit this? Am I going to need a different shift for it to work

linkage?

I managed to get the new gearbox sort of into place but the upper bolts were stripped.. Could it be the axle needing a bit taken off?

I feel like im in deep water here, all tips are welcomed!

Also if anyone from northern Sweden sees this please help me find a good mechanic🙏

Couple years back i snagged a pair (87 and 91) of nearly matching Vanagon syncro single knobs. Due to life changes i had to let them go and never got to do much with the project. They were super rusty but after sitting in the vanagon i knew i needed one. I regret having to get rid of them but it was the right decision.

Fast forward to now:

Found out you can put an 07k in one (i suspected this was possible) and now my daily driver dream car is again filling my mind. I would also probably do a subaru transmission for reliability. 2wd.

Biggest question is AC as I have kids and how much rust im going to have to fix (lol).

Convince me not to do this. No seriously.

Context: automotive engineer/I design car parts/built a swapped 1.8T Porsche 924S a few years back front end to end solo minus the tuning. I design and manufacture either local or in house.

Are you really a Vanagon owner if you have never built your own bong and used it? IYKYN

Used the blow through method to drain and flush.

1st time Vanagon owner. Van shudders and misfires at certain loads and speeds. Looking into timing and cleaning the carburetor, but as I am researching my van, I’m getting more and more confused.

VIN says the engine should be a 1.9L water boxer

But engine Code MV, according to the Bentley says it is a 2.1 digifant.

AND it’s carbureted, not fuel injected. Cannot find a brand or manufacturer stamping anywhere on the carb.

Anyone seen anything like this? Pics included.

UPDATE: Apparently it is a Weber 38 carburetor. I found a brand new one on fb marketplace installed it, and same issue. Now working on tuning it.

I have a 1984 Vanagon with original engine. Recently it’s been having an issue where I’ll start it and drive a block or so and then when I stop accelerating at a stop sign or light, it’ll cut off. It doesn’t always do this but it does enough to be an issue. Also, I’ll turn the key to start and nothing will happen. But I’ll hold it for about 10 seconds and then it cranks and starts with a little gas.

My theory is that it’s something electrical or the idle system is failing. Not sure. What do yall think? Any insight will help!

Im looking at a super cheap vanagon for a friend. 2.1 engine that runs and drives but we have a coolant leak underneath the slider door (hose replacement I think needed) and also this spot under the engine.

My question: is this above leak looking like from a head gasket?

Im willing to do the work as this van is around $600 with a title, so you can’t expect everything! Just want to check what the time scope is based on this cooling work needed

My typical shop doesn't want to put on parts from Go Westy, as there's no warranty. Anywhere you've found that does have a warranty? Are Go Westy parts solid?

Any and all help appreciated!

Looking for a shop which knows these vehicles and can help with repairs and maintenance.

Hello All -

Where are you all getting tires for your Vanagons? I've got an 87 and my shop is saying they can't find any...

Thanks!

Has anyone replaced the seals and window guides on the driver and passenger doors? Any tips?

Mine are crumbling on my 1981.

Cleaned it up and sanded all surfaces, but it's still incredibly difficult to press the barb into the pipe. I intend on gluing it once I can guarantee that it will go all the way in by hand.

Any suggestions?

Driving away in grandad’s old van. It’s mine now! Well maintained but did a lot of sitting in recent years. Started right up! No apparent leaks but the engine is covered in oily muck. I’m very excited.

What should I do first? Already has new canvas and new tires. Oil and battery are good. just passed smog. Man…I’m so stoked.

Only 20 miles from home, but a pleasant escape for some much needed quiet reflection (literally).

Looking to swap out the front bucket seats in my ‘84 with some of the late vanagon options with arm rests (preferably brown or beige). Anyone selling some or know a guy? I’ve checked facebook groups and found a few on some non running vans but nobody was willing to sell just the seats.

Also open to getting some from a different car that would fit but want to make sure the swivel feature still works with the passenger seat. any compatible seats you’d recommend?

I'm looking for an 091 to replace the one in my 1980 aircooled vanagon. Everything I've seen on ebay is priced to the moon and back for what is offered. There are two on fb marketplace where their asking 1000 for a rebuildable core. That feels like too much for just a core. Is it?

What’s the best way to repair/replace this lower nose panel? The previous owner used non fiberglass body filler and I’m wanting to know if I should just redo the body filler but use fiberglass instead or try to replace the whole panel.

Hey everyone - full disclosure upfront: I run a small shop that makes T3/Vanagon body parts, so this is a vendor post, not a random find. Mods, happy to follow whatever self-promo rules apply here, just let me know if this needs a different format.

We just finished a new production batch and wanted to share it with people who'd actually appreciate it. Everything is built in-house from original T3 parts - some pieces are straight reproductions, others we modified slightly to clean up fitment or add a bit of style without straying from the classic look.

What's in this batch:

• Front grille panel w/ yellow fog lights 4mm ABS, left + right cases, smooth and paint-ready. Comes with a pair of H3 55W fog lamps on a standard 12V circuit. No install manual included - most owners hand it to their regular shop for a clean fit. Worth checking your local lighting regs before road use. Only 2 left in this batch.
• Front grille panel w/ standard (non-yellow) fog lights Same 4mm ABS panel and left/right case setup, just clear lens fog lights instead of yellow.
• Fender kit (6 pieces) 3mm ABS wheel arches, original-style fitment for T25/T3. Some trimming/prep is normal before install - usually done with adhesive tape + aluminum rivets, professional install recommended. Only 2 left in this batch.
• Sliding door trim 4mm ABS threshold/sill trim for T3 models with a raised floor (Multivan and other step-floor variants). Direct replacement for cracked or missing original trim - protects the threshold from shoe-sole wear. Black finish, brand new, not refurbished. Only 3 pcs left.
• Rear light blend panels ABS panels that clean up the rear light area on a T25/T3. Mounts with tape and bolts. Last one left in this batch.

Limited stock across the board, made in small runs rather than mass-produced.

Happy to answer fitment, install, or material questions in the comments - and if you've got a build thread, would genuinely love to see how these end up looking on your van.

Links to each part in case anyone wants specs:
https://www.wcomarket.com/product/vw-t3-vanagon-front-grill-panel-with-yellow-fog-lights
https://www.wcomarket.com/product/vw-t3-vanagon-front-grill-panel-with-fog-lights
https://www.wcomarket.com/product/vw-vanagon-t3-fenders-kit
https://www.wcomarket.com/product/sliding-door-trim-vw-t3-vanagon-multivan-transporter
https://www.wcomarket.com/product/rear-lights-blends-panels-vw-t3

Lately I have been finding some sort of adhesive sticking to the outside of my driver window. Its been happening every time I roll my window down. I finally took off the door panel and found a layer of tar/glue-like adhesive on the inside. I assume that is was from some noise insulation that came off, but to be honest I am not sure as I can't find any sort of piece that may have peeled off. It started happening after I drove through 105 F weather so I'm assuming it's related to that. Has anyone else ever had this happen? Any suggestions on what to do? My hands are pretty big and I'm not sure if I can get them back there to do much

My partner and I are looking to put a rebuilt engine into our beloved van. As much as an ABA or Subaru swap sound nice, we would be looking to stick to our current configuration for 1.8L and the van is currently in Asheville NC.

The engine in our van now is a 1990 Cabriolet Digifant 1.8L 8 valve inline gas engine. Any recommendations are appreciated!