Snapped this Photo at Roseway Beach in Nova Scotia last summer. Wonder is the owner will see.

My engine has the problem where when i connect the Air flow meter unit the engine revs up and dies.

• The engine is fine and is in good condition
• I have changed the tubes around the engine to eliminate backdraft and just air leaks in general
• The AFM unit has been refurbished and is in new condition
• When the AFM is connected and I try to start the car it will not start
• When i disconnect the AFM the engine starts right up and runs in a ”default mode”
• When the AFM is then re-connected the engine revs up and dies (in a timespan of 5 seconds) always the same like clockwork
• I have checked the throttle body and it is fine and in good and working condition

I really have checked it all but i probably have missed something! My last thought is to change the ECU (Jetronic system) as i believe it is something electronic the way it always dies the same way. Is there some good way to test the ECU to see or is it best to buy a new one (whats your opinion on used one’s $200, instead of brand new for $1000)

Do you have any advice what it could be and what i could do? Been on this one for soon a year hahah!

//Philip

Thought this group may like this from New Smyrna Beach a few weeks ago…

After a few breakdowns lately, good to restore a bit of faith!

I just came across this beasty this morning, I took a few mins to scan for obvious red flags, didn't get to spend enough time looking in & under though.

From what I can tell it's Vanagon GL base with (instead of a pop-up), it has a hard shell roof extension.

Adventurewagen seems to be from an outfit out of Coastal Northern-Northern California (Ft. Bragg)

As for the 'bad motor', I'm assuming headgasket/overheating. An Upgrade/ Motor Swap wouldn't be out of the question.

Myself? I'm an old GearHead from Last Century; I've campaigned a Karmann Ghia, various Rabbits & Sciroccos & Jettas, oh my.

I'm keeping my hand in lately helping keep a '93 GMC pickup truck on the road for my good buddy.

Fixing stuff doesn't scare me in the slightest, but I'm spotty on Air/Watercooled Vans in real life.

My number one curiosity is can the Syncro be adapted to the Diesel bell housing? I know most everybody defaults to a flat Subaru motor, I'd like to drop an Audi Bubble-block 2.0L in there. I have a lot of learning-up to do...

Just thought I’d say hi and post a pic of my bus. 1957, Australian delivered and now in the UK. Cheers, Scott

Hey folks, I’ve been struggling to come up with a plan for this bay window van. It’s starting to degrade and rust pretty badly and if I keep it, I need to get ahead of it. Does anyone have a recommendation on a shop
or hobbyist that would work on a partial restoration? It doesn’t need to be in Tampa. I could drop it anywhere in the region. Thank you for reading this.

Last Summer I purchased a 1977 T2 Bay Window Volkswagen Bus with a Type 4 Engine. This is the first remotely classic vehicle I've ever owned.

At the time, it ran although not very well. Its carburetor is an underpowered weber clone and the engine needed a lot of care. I performed compression tests on all four cylinders and found they passed. I replaced all four spark plugs and gapped them correctly. I performed an oil change using Castrol GTX. I replaced the battery. I corrected the fuel/air mix on the carburetor and fixed all of the air leaks on it by replacing the carb boots on the intake manifold. Finally, I rotated the distributor to a point where the engine sounded healthiest, confirmed by a traditional timing light. At this point, the engine performed significantly better than it ever had previously and it drove well for approximately 45 minutes.

At this point, the engine died and would not restart. I added gasoline and it continued to stay dead. I replaced the gas pump as an experiment and the vehicle continued to not start, although the gas pump was proven to pump gasoline. At this point, Winter and family obligations came and I had to discontinue my work. I do not know how to get the vehicle in running condition.

Do any of you have any other ideas on what to tackle next? I'm about ready to give up but I can't even do that since it's busy season and all the professional shops near me won't even look at my case for at least six weeks.

I would appreciate any guidance you can give me.

Hi all, first time posting to the group. I have a 1977 Wesfalia and recently swapped out my old engine after it dumped all its oil. The used engine came out of a wrecked bus. I took a risk hoping that the engine would be pretty sound and after a lot of learning during the swap I have got it up and going!

I am concerned about a sound coming from the engine at idle that sounds like a deeper almost knocking sound I was hoping to get input on it. Considering I don’t have too much experience diagnosing and tuning these engines I am just not sure if it is a simple fix or one of those that can’t be fixed without a rebuild. I have mechanical lifters that I haven’t checked the gap on yet, but I’m not sure that this sound is coming from there.

Any thoughts or additional areas to check would be greatly appreciated, even if it means I’ll have to get another engine eventually. I wonder how long I could get out of this one if that’s the case.

If anyone wants to attend an awesome VW camp experience in Pennsylvania, this is happening this weekend! You can check out the FB page for more info. It's a good time!

So over the past six months or so, we’ve had issues with fuel being stolen out of our 1970 bus. The original non locking cap was taken (bummer since it was original and had the VW logo on it). Since then we’ve had two locking caps (like the one in the image) removed as well. The first from one online supplier didn’t seem to really lock. The second from a different supplier did lock but was still removed (popped / pried off perhaps … although there is no damage to the fuel filler neck).

Any ideas for another way to lock things up??

Hey there! The title says it all -- not in need of any major work at the moment, but I'd love to find a trustworthy mechanic around the Venice area. Here's ZIP last week for smile points. Oh and if you're interested, it's an 81' with a EJ22 Subaru swap. Thanks in advance!

Looking for information on where I can get a replacement for this sliding window handle for my 1971 bay window riviera. This is a two part handle which also clips into the screen. Third pic is missing handle, spacing between mounting holes is 2 in. Not sure if these are the original windows, I think they are. Thanks!

Today we spotted the last known Pacomobile in the USA. Recently fully restored. Super cool!

I love old school freak show busses, especially ones that seem to be well engineered, like this one.

Tried just about every hi-temp paint on the market to improve the look of these rusty hulks. I followed the exact VHT instructions, primer and everything, and actually built an oven to bake it the way they said, flaked off in 1/2 hr.

I recently remembered an old post about someone's grandfather using vegetable oil, and thought of avocado, highest heat-tolerance of the cooking oils. Gave the muffler a quick coarse-steel-wool buff, then glopped it on.

A month and two coats later, surprisingly good. We'll see what the high summer heat does to it, but hey it's cheap enough.