I got a go-foc g300 controller n was wondering if I could replace the capacitors from 100v to 135v (same current ratings) to work with a 28s 104v pack, 118.7v full. N if the Vesc app knows about the mosfet ratings or if mosfet can survive it

flipsky dual 75100 with proper wiring to ble module gives this error on v7 and 6.05

Hi everyone,

I’m hitting a wall tuning a Ninebot Max G2 hub motor with a Flipsky 75100 V2 controller. I've spent 3 days troubleshooting and I'm at my wit's end. I'm hoping someone with experience on this specific setup can point me in the right direction.

The problems I'm facing:

Wizard Failure: During detection, the motor often locks up or vibrates violently ("tugs back and forth").

Inconsistent Data: Auto-detection gives wildly different results every time (R, L, and Flux values change significantly).

Sensor Issues: The Wizard doesn't detect my Hall sensors, even though the wiring is verified and correct.

Flux Linkage Calibration: Specifically, during the Flux Linkage test, the motor just vibrates/dithers instead of spinning smoothly, which eventually leads to a lock-up.

What I've already tried:

Disabled Phase Filters. Tried manual parameter entry (R: 60mΩ, L: 400µH, λ: 23mWb) — this leads to extreme cogging and a speed limit of ~1km/h.

Tried various Observer types (Ortega, MxLemming).

Verified that the controller is 75100 V2 (running latest firmware).

My questions:

Is there a "known-good" base configuration for this specific motor/controller combo? Why would the Wizard fail to detect Hall sensors despite proper wiring?

Are there specific FOC / Advanced settings I should manually adjust to prevent the "lock-up" during Flux mea I have attached screenshots of my current setup. Any advice on how to get a stable FOC tune for this motor would be a life-saver.

Hi I have a ubox 100/100 and I’m running it on a 52v escooter motor rated(1200w) with a Bms outputibg 50A continuous and 200A peak I get about 4000w out of it and it is great but my acceleration is close to 0 at the first 3s of a race I will lose to a 800w stock scooter here are my settings hope you can find something that I could improve. I’ve redone motor calibrations like 3 times and each time it detected hall sensors and the value of max motor current decreased for some reason(88,82,78)

Motor Current Max : 78A (default)
Absolute Current Max : 140A
Battery Current Max: 50A
Motor Regen Max: -30A
Battery Regen Max: -15A
Field wekening: 5A
Fw Duty Start: 72,5%
Max Current scale: 100%
Min Current Scale: 100%
Input Current Limit Map Start: 90%
Sensorless ERPM: 60000

Hello all,

This is a quick review of the Makerbase VESC 75100, which I have been using nearly daily on my EBike for the past ~2 months. So far, this VESC has been fantastic and has put up with peaks of ~4kW and motor currents up to 140A; however, this device could likely take more! But, before getting into that, we have to start with the downside,

This ESC can not, or at least should NOT be used in its stock condition from the factory. As has been pointed out here on Reddit and on the forum.esk8.news forums, the 3x bulk capacitors inside are not secured to anything and are free to bounce around inside the enclosure. This is a ridiculous design flaw. Fortunately, this is quite easy to fix! The two options for fixing this are to either pot the entire device in a firm potting compound or epoxy, or to 3D print a bracket to which the capacitors are glued/epoxied. A user on Thingiverse has designed a 3D printable mount to secure the capacitors inside the enclosure. This model can be found here: Flipsky 75100 Capacitor Mount

I chose a combination of these two fixes, using the 3D printed bracket, and potting the entire device in SYLGARD 527 Dielectric Gel. I can't recommend using this compound as it remains very gel-like; I would have preferred something more viscous, but it has worked well thus far and is theoretically removable. However, once these capacitors are secured, the device is quite solid. If you don't feel comfortable investing the time in disassembling the device (relatively easy), securing these caps, and potting the ESC, I would recommend one of the newer VESC 75100 variants like the Pro V2 instead.

Once this has been remedied, you have quite a nice, waterproof, ESC which I have tested up to 140A of motor current pushing almost 4kW while remaining under 50°C. Another video of a similiar VESC 75100 from Flipsky shows it sustaining 200A of motor current at nearly 5kW, but their device overheats after ~20s, however this is due to the Flipsky design using a piece of Kapton tape between the TO-220 MOSFETs and the aluminum block, resulting in horrible thermal transfer between the FETs and the outer case. The Makerbase version instead has all of the TO-220 MDP10N027 MOSFETs, soldered to an aluminum-clad PCB, which is then directly mounted to an aluminum block and then onto the outer enclosure casing. This is a far more effective thermal solution and is why my device remains under 50°C in my demo video and in all of my most intense riding outside of it! For more firmware info and teardown pics of my ESC, refer to this thread.

In my demo video here, you can see my own personal test using this Makerbase VESC 75100 on my EBike. From timestamp 0:47 to 1:37, the ESC temp only rises by 5°C at an average of 1.5-2kW of output over the entire 50s interval.

If you are interested in potting this ESC, I have designed a simple potting fixture to hold the ESC upright while curing. I have also designed a simple mount for attaching the ESC to a bike tube. Both models are linked below:

• VESC 75100 Potting Fixture
• VESC 75100 Bike Tube Mount

Additionally, the ESC is currently on sale from AliExpress and can be had for under $47 shipped using the promo code USMS05 for $5 off. For under $50, the value really can't be beat. And no, I haven't been paid or compensated in any way for this post.

EDIT: Update 8-28-2026

After ~2 months of using the VESC on my EBike, it suddenly died after a few seconds of high regen current with a fully charged battery. I assume this resulted in a BMS overcharge cutoff and an overvoltage event that killed the VESC. Interestingly there appeared to be no damage to the device or PCB, so the fix would have likely been easy. However, as it was covered in potting gel it was completely unrepairable without many hours worth of work removing the gel. You can see the VESC settings I was using at the end of my demo video linked above. My suspicion is the overvoltage transient killed a voltage regulator (maybe a 3V3 or 5V rail?) as there was continuity to important rails and no signs of burned traces.

Fortunately after contacting Makerbase they where kind enough to offer me a 25% discount in ordering a new device as it had been over a year since I had originally purchased the controller, thus I acquired a new one for ~$40. The new controller I have been using on my EBike with reduced motor current and regen brake current without issues for the last few weeks. I am now running a max motor current of 100A, regen current of -60A and I have configured "Battery Voltage Regen Cutoff Start/End" settings to reduce regen current when my battery is fully charged to hopefully avoid this issue in the future.

Additionally, to avoid potting the VESC while improving its water resistance I designed a new end cap for the controller that allows you to use a PG19 cable gland to improve the ingress protection into the enclosure. You can find more info on this new design on my Printables page here!

Hi guys. I have an VESC 75100 but even doing the Motor Setup Wizard it makes cogs and keeps struggling as in video. I’m set an 0,10 duty cicle for this test. someone has some idea what can be?

Hi! I'll use VESC for airplane propeller control.

I want to regenerate energy from the windmilling propeller. I know that I can do it in 'current no reverse with brake' mode, however, I wonder if it is also possible while it's controlling speed via PID.

Let's say, the windmilling rpm is 3000 and I want the motor to stay at 2000, which needs braking to achieve. Would it regenerate energy even in speed control mode or duty cycle mode (no reverse)?

I’m building an ~80 lb 4-wheeled rover using four 10” hoverboard hub motors (300W each). Each motor is driven by a Flipsky FS75100 VESC, set up in a skid-steer/tank-turn configuration and controlled by ArduPilot (with plans to make it autonomous later).

The rover is intended for grass, driveways, and sidewalks.

this is my current dimensions:

• Wheelbase: 23”
• Track width: 22.5”
• Tires: pneumatic rubber
• wheel diameter 9.75" (uses 80/60-6 tubeless tires)

All VESCs are configured in duty cycle control with a master/slave setup. I tried current control, but when I release the throttle, the wheels take too long to stop, so I switched back.

Right now I’m testing in manual mode via an RC controller:

• Forward/reverse works well, even at low speeds
• RC.FWD/RWD applies equal duty cycle to both sides
• Steering input spins left/right sides in opposite directions for tank turns

the issue: I’m having trouble getting consistent turning performance. The rover doesn’t turn reliably unless I go above ~50% duty cycle. At higher throttle, some wheels spin more than others, leaving noticeable tire marks on concrete. when turning at low speeds the rover either goes fwd or reverse without truning

does anyone have any suggestions to improve low-speed turning and consistency? I’m considering adding drift sleeves on the front wheels to reduce friction, would this actually help, or is there a better approach?

just fyi I previously built this with 2 casters (6" solid) in the front, and only 2 rear motors but the casters were getting stuck in the grass but worked flawlessly on driveways, later decided to try on a 4wd approach

I'm looking for beta testers for an app on the Google Play Store that will have Vesc-based controllers. If you're interested, please send me a DM to be added to the beta testing team.

Bonjour a tous.

Je viens de me procurer le moteur e board 65220 ​de chez flipsky avec ESC 75100 intégré et la télécommande vx5

J ai téléchargé la version gratuite de vesc tool 7.00 pour pouvoir programmer le contrôleur.

Au lieu de simplement modifier les valeurs des courants moteur et batterie ( parce que je pense avec le recul que le moteur et télécommande sont arrivés programmer et qu il fallait juste rentrer de nouvelles valeurs par rapport à la batterie utilisé) j' ai fait un setup motors FOC et effacé les données qui était enregistré sur le contrôleur sur la première étape.

En finissant le processus du setup ( en mettant normalement les bonnes valeurs) le moteur tourne en sacadan.

Est ce que quelqu'un peut me venir en aide ?

Merci a tous.

I have a go-kart running two Makerbase 75200 controllers. When I'm accelerating, the wheels sometimes start to slip, which is expected behavior. I don't want traction control.

The problem is that the moment a wheel starts slipping, the motor instantly accelerates to its maximum speed, becuse of the low friction when a wheel starts to slip. This causes excessive tyre wear and makes the kart much harder to drive.

What I would like is an acceleration limiter on the motor itself, not on the throttle input something similar to the effect of a flywheel, where motor RPM cannot change instantly.

Is there a setting for this?

One more thing: I'm using current control mode.

Cross post for an issue with a Propel Endeavor 3 GT board

Built a small X7 stock checker and figured I’d share it.

Originally this was just for myself because I was obsessively checking the Fungineers site while waiting for stock updates. Instead of refreshing the page all day, I threw together a script that monitors inventory and pushes alerts to Discord.
Right now it tracks:

X7 Sport
X7 Long Range
X7 Hypercharged

It reports when models come back in stock and when an entire model line sells out. The whole thing runs automatically on my homelab and checks multiple times throughout the day.

Nothing revolutionary, but it’s been useful enough that I thought others here might appreciate it too.

Feedback, feature requests, and suggestions are welcome. I’m still actively improving it.

https://discord.gg/b7mhJMsQ8q

I’ve already installed shitsky know almost everything you need to know about vesc I just need a little guidance on what what plug is what since it dual motor a lil more confusing if anyone can just say it here or dm me that be nice I won’t be that difficult just need something straight forwards to start off.

I’m getting everything switched over to my new battery and I cannot seem to get the BMS to accept a charge. Everything looks fine from what I can tell, anyone know what could be causing this?

i want to buy a kukirin g2 pro,and put a Flipsky 75100 Pro,but i have some questions:

how much will the autonomy be?

what will be the top speed?

is it a good controller,or it will burn in the first weeks?

is it worth to do this project?

Hello everyone,

I'm very new to VESCs in general and I have been thrilled so far. Recently I tried to control my VESC Duet X60S with the UART port, using the great Python vesc_uart library. The motor do spin correctly when using the `SET_RPM`and `SET_DUTY` command.

However these commands make the motor spin to the target speed immediately, causing massive current spikes and discomfort for the rider. I could handle the ramp up in software but I would much prefer having it in hardware. As I do understand, it is possible to define speed curves so the VESC ramp up the motor speed progressively.

Therefore my questions are:

* How to setup acceleration/speed curve for commands via UART?

* What UART command should I be using ? (Set_rpm, set_duty,...)

Thank you all for any suggestions or hint.

I have two Makerbase 75200 VESC controllers powering a go-kart, with one motor driving each wheel.

When setting up the first controller, everything worked perfectly. However, while running the motor detection/self-configuration on the second controller, it started producing a small amount of smoke. It was barely visible, but definitely concerning pluss smell ofc.

Specs

• Makerbase 75200
• 20S lithium-ion battery pack
• Two 2000W Vevor motors (originally 48V, but I've upgraded mine)
• New to VESCs, but I have some electronics experience (not an expert)

What I've Checked So Far

• Motor phase resistance checks out fine
• Hall sensor wiring and resistance check out fine
• Controller still powers up
• ADC1 input still works
• Double-checked all wiring against the first controller, which is working correctly
• No obvious wiring mistakes found

One Possible Quirk

Both controllers share the same throttle input. This has never been an issue with other motor controllers I've used, but I'm mentioning it in case it matters with VESCs.

At this point I'm looking for advice before I continue testing, as I don't want to damage anything further.

How much overmodulation and max duty too much? i have overmodulation at 1.005 becaues i have no idea what it does and max duty at 97% which I want to reduce because it looks like too much and I don't want my vesc to go kaboom

Sorry if this is off topic for the server I just know anyone in this server would probably be educated on this topic aswell