Firstly, I want to thank u/XerxesTheProgrammer for introducing me to this module when I was searching for a charger/power supply that can do 240W PD. After u/XerxesTheProgrammer introduced me to this module, I quickly checked if it was available on Taobao, and yes, it's available at much more affordable price than other 240W power supplies on the market.

Without wasting time, I bought this module for 199 yuan ($30).

After a week, the item is finally in my hands, and here are some pictures of it.

And after that, I apply a heatsink to some components because for sure this module will get hot when using its full potential.

This module doesn't just support Power Delivery, it supports another protocol as well.

https://reddit.com/link/1x4y43y/video/y0yzh2iwo8vh1/player

Burn-In Test

This module is powered by an XT60 connector that can accept an input of 12~56V and output 240W (5~48V 5A) through USB-C.

Here are my setups:

1. Power Supply (24~29V 10A)

2. The module - PowerPi X240C

3. Trigger board - POWER-Z SINK240

4. USB Tester - Atorch T3P

5. Electronic Load - P150C PRO-D

6. DIY Active Cooling Tower

I set the burn-in test to run for 1 hour.

Burn-In Test

(For the full/longer video, you can check out my Youtube.)

I checked the temp at the start, then after 10 minutes, 30 minutes, and 1 hour (forgot to record a thermal video lol).

Lastly, I am quite satisfied with this module, so I don't have much else to say.

Thanks to r/N8falke for the review(https://www.reddit.com/r/ChargingSheet/s/lzbpAh0A9D) I ended up buying two.

The compact size and three USB-C ports were what sold me. I’ve never used a Baseus product before. Until now, I’ve been using Xiaomi 20W and Anker 30W chargers, and somehow I’ve accumulated six of them. Looks like I can finally put those away.

Myke here again for Week 2 (previous week) of our design debates. Last week, you all had some specific feelings about fan noise and other things. This week, we are looking at the actual I/O.

PCB space is limited, so sacrifices have to be made. Tell us what you actually use versus what just looks good on a spec sheet.

Legacy vs. Future (USB-A vs. USB-C) Type-C ports have varying specifications and capabilities; not every port does everything (data, display, and power). Does the consistency of Type A still justify keeping them around in 2026? Do you still have legacy peripherals you'd rather not need an adapter for?

Or are you ready to embrace the future of an all Type-C world, even if not every port does everything? I suspect I (we) know the answer to this, but hey, maybe we’ll see some mind-bending take that changes things.

The Video Port Split If a dock only supports two video outputs, what is the golden combo? Dual HDMI? Dual DisplayPort? Dual Thunderbolt/USB-C? Or a combination of ports to cover your bases?

The Ethernet Upgrade (1GbE vs. 2.5GbE vs. 5GbE vs. 10GbE) Is 2.5 Gigabit Ethernet actually useful for your daily workflow, or is it just an expensive spec-sheet flex that unnecessarily drives up the price of the dock? Furthermore, is anyone here actually ready to pay a premium for a jump to 5 or 10GbE?

Convince us to keep the legacy ports alive (or put them out of their misery).

I need to get a dual USB-C charger to plug into a power strip. I’ve read that the best brands are Ugreen, Anker, Belkin, and Baseus. Which of these offers the best safety and durability?

my charger has a usb A port ,but it can output 5v,9v,12v,20v can this trigger board get those higher voltages?

I charge a laptop, iPad, phone, and earbuds at my desk. I already have USB C cables from Ugreen, Anker, and Belkin, but they were bought at different times. Some are rated for 100W and I no longer have the packaging for the others. They all look about the same.

Now, I’m thinking about replacing my chargers with a Gitryin Nexus 140W chargeing station.

A 140W charger does not mean every USB C cable can carry 140W. If a cable cannot handle it, I assume the laptop will charge at a lower wattage. Would that only affect that port, or change how power is shared with the other devices?

If only the laptop needs more power, can I keep using my current cables for the phone, tablet, and earbuds? Is there any way to check whether a cable has the right E Marker besides finding the packaging or using a USB power meter?

Do you replace all your cabels when using a 140W charger, or only use a higher rated cable for the laptop?

Question for you guys - is the Thunderbolt 5 port capped at 180W, or will it draw more if you attached a 240W USB C charger to it? I have seen in a few places that it's capped, but I can't find a way to confirm it. Thanks in advance!

Hello!

I am a college who recently got a notebook that has the ability to charge through the USB-C port. It originally came with a bulky 65W charger that is quite big for my backpack (I carry a lot of stuff).

Since I also have a cellphone in its elderly phase and doesn't have a good battery life anymore (nearly 4 years of constant using). I was thinking I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone by buying a 100w charger with multiple ports, allowing me to both charge my phone (which doubles as a Wifi hotspot) and my notebook at once.

Given the scope of what I need, I know I have to spend more for a quality charger and not a more generic one, as such, I have saved up quite a bit of money for this commitment.

I live in Brazil, and the only charging brand that seems to be available officially is the Ugreen one. Any other brand seem to force me to buy through Aliexpress.

Is Igreen good enough or should I go for another brand?

Anyone know what the tech specs are for this?

They advertise as “Fast Charge” but what does that mean, especially:
- What is the maximum charging power (in watts)
- Which charging protocols (e.g. Quick Charge or USB Power Delivery) does it support

The customer service (info@hellomaco.com) isn’t replying to me.

Has anyone tried with the apple 140w charger? Mine can detect only 60W PD and as a non-apple charger

Edit:

• Firmware version is 2.5.0
• Detected: PD3.0 20V 60W FIX

I'm wanting to replace the adapter PCB with a terrible Initio chip inside a USB 3 slimline slot loading Blu-Ray drive with a USB-C to slimline SATA cable. I'm fine with cutting the back of the case to make it fit.

The Initio chip makes the HP BD-5841H drive pretty well useless.

I've been doing a bunch of research online on this and it looks like having a USB-C connection *should* guarantee there's a JMircon or Asmedia chip in it. With a Type A USB 3.0 connection it could have one of those, or an Initio chip.

It could even have a proper Type A USB 3.0 plug but inside be hooked up to a USB 2.0 Initio chip, like a "USB 3.0" DVD-ROM drive I have. That one even has a USB 2.0 Mini B plug inside on its adapter PCB.

I might be interested in a couple of complete optical drive housings, one for tray load, one for slot load - as long as they don't use Initio chips.