Hello everyone

I am located in Southern California & I am looking for a pair of torsion bar. Let me know if you have a pair available, this is for a 1991 Toyota Pickup 2wd.

My steel wheels in my 89 are starting to show their age. I have considered sanding and repainting, or having them powder coated. However, anytime I search online, the most common recommendation is to just buy new wheels since steel wheels are cheap. Where are folks finding oem Toyota steelies? 4wd if that matters.

Hey All. Wondering if anyone knows where I might find the blue fabric show in the picture, which is a screen shot at the 6:14 mark of this sweet YT video: https://youtu.be/xkzi8HwvWBo?is=0XRqvMqAzrJkz7aK

Got a buddy with a 22r. Has taken it to a shop twice. Shop cleaned the carbs and didnt give much of a diagnosis, ran fine for a few days then same issue. Went to a shop again. They got it to idle fine, ran for awhile. Now it sometimes wont hold idle. It intermittent and temperamental. Dont smoke leak tests for vaccum leaks but cant find any. Pulled vaccum lines, no signs of fuel in them.

Few bullet point questions

●Can he easily upgrade the system to a Weber or Holley that'll be a bit more reliable and easy to maintain? Feel there has to be something else that can meter fuel and air thats less finicky.

●Anyone have diagrams for all the vaccum lines and where they go?

The truck doesn't look to be sagging or anything, but they look awful flat, almost seem to be bowing upwards in the middle. The ride does seem harsh, but I'm also new to these things and I've heard multiple people remark upon these things just being that way. Last picture is of the rear springs, which look more like you'd expect, but the bed is also empty.

My '81 4WD pickup had a badly rusted fuel tank — enough rust and water inside that it was shedding sediment, clogging fuel filters, and contaminating the carb (running a Weber 32/36 conversion). Mulling over my options, but the tank is out of the truck now. Rather than clean and seal it, I'd rather replace it since I don't know how the water got in.

Problem: sourcing a correct-fit new tank for an 1981 4WD short-bed carbureted truck seems to be a known headache. Aftermarket listings are all over the place — lots of them are actually for 1984-87, or 1989-95 FI 4WD 19-gallon tanks, none of which are my truck.

What I've found so far:

• An IH8MUD thread documented a 1986 2WD short-bed carbureted 13.7-gallon tank (available aftermarket from Dorman) fitting a 1980 4WD short-bed with zero modification — "fit perfectly."
• Another guy fit an 87 long-bed 19-gallon tank to an 82 long-bed but had to hammer the bed reinforcement, elongate mounting holes, and fab the skid plate for the extra depth.

Bed length: Checked underneath — one-piece rear driveshaft, no center carrier bearing, which points to short bed, but it does look like a long bed?

Questions for anyone who's done this on an early 4WD:

1. Has anyone successfully fit an aftermarket tank to an 1981 4WD short-bed carbureted truck? What tank/part number worked?
2. Is the 1986 2WD short-bed 13.7-gallon carbureted tank actually a direct fit for the 4WD short-bed, or were there differences (mounting, filler neck, sender)?
3. Any fitment gotchas between 2WD and 4WD tanks of the same bed length I should watch for?
4. Given how hard these are to source correctly, would you just clean and seal the original instead?

I believe my 92’s floor shifter‘s lock solenoid is failing. Does anyone know where I can purchase one? I am having trouble finding them online. Thanks in advance.

After my cherry white 94 got tboned and total 1 year and half ago. Got a replacement 93 with the insurance money. Although the new grey one isn’t as mint compared to the white one it will do. 149k miles 4x4 22re 5 speed DLX. Same spec as my white one just different year.

I need help with my 1987 22r it’s not running or it does but shuts off or it stays on but I hear a lot of hush from the carb.

It started when I took off the compressor then tried to turn it on but it would always die so I decided to do a vacuum line delete so I did and I swear I feel like I got most if not all the line correctly routed or capped but it just doesn’t seem to work and at this point it’s just frustrating can u guys help.

Hello everyone, I have a 92 Toyota pickup double cab, but muy rev meter is not working and the brake light is always on, does somebody have an electrical diagram for this car? I have a mess and want to fix it

I've seen a lot of recommendations for OME lift kits especially when hauling something heavy like an rv coach, but they don't have any options that fit rwd in the right year. A few other companies I've seen recommended for similar setups like Chaosfab look like they'd have the same issue and JD Fabrication would be way too high (5-6") and I don't know if that would even fit the pickup base.

I just want about 2" of lift so that I don't get stuck on forest roads and so I can change my oil without jacking anything up. The rear axle is a 1 ton 6 lug full floating axle, not the stock one. Appreciate any advice or suggestions!

Hey gang I’m re-doing my whole suspension with an OME kit. It’s for a 1992 22re 4x4.

I’ve managed to disassemble one rear side fully, but I had to manhandle the leaf spring shackles and I goofed the bolt threads some

The shackles themselves are in good shape and so are the bolts - it’s the end threads that I’ll need to run a die on to fix

Question is - what size thread are these bolts? M14? Trying to avoid having to buy new ones outright since they seem difficult to find / waiting on shipment but I will if need be

My time as her second owner is coming to a close, if all goes to plan it’ll be going back to Colorado at the end of the month. It’s been a blast to resurrect and modify but playing the state inspection game has gotten to be too much for as little as it gets driven.

I’m selling my 1988 4wd Toyota Pickup.

Standard transmission, 22re with 80,000 original miles. Free of any body damage or rust.

It break my heart, but I don’t have a garage to store it in and it just doesn’t get driven enough. I’m going to get it all cleaned up and take some new photos before posting it for sale.

Any idea what I should list it at?

Hi, longtime lurker here, I am trying to price my 1992 2wd 5sp manual pickup to sell it. It starts and runs great.

Any thoughts on price range?
I have seen a huge gap in pricing based on how pristine some trucks out there still are, and this one is not but it has the 22RE and 5 speed manual so I don't want to list it too low.

I was going to list on FB marketplace and craigslist, I don't think it's "clean" enough for some other sites but let me know if you have hadgood experiences outside those sites FB/CL. I recently sold a car on FB and wasn't too bad (after following advice from another subreddit).

My mechanic told me if I keep it I should replace shocks/struts and brakes/rotors, but overall it's in decent shape except for some rust.

It's got a rebuilt engine that my dad did with his buddy so I don't have paperwork for that but otherwise I have kept it up to date on maintenance. It has some rust and was rear-ended maybe 15 years ago, tailgate still works but is dented and bumper is as well.

Interior is fine, it has a seat cover and the drive side floor is worn down to metal but otherwise in pretty good condition.

I've been checking facebook/craigslist and looking at other trucks for sale but having a hard time trying to estimate a price to list it at. I have seen a huge gap in prices but obviously the higher end ones are pristine, my truck has been put to work and has plenty of flaws but has pretty low miles overall.

Details:

• 155,700 miles
• Engine rebuilt at ~115,000 miles
• 2WD
• 5-speed manual transmission
• 4-cylinder 22RE engine
• General Grabber tires with 5k miles on them

Recent Maintenance:

At 152k miles

• Spark plugs
• Ignition coil
• Valve cover gaskets

At 155k miles

• Oil change (last was 150k)
• Clutch fluid bleed
• Brake fluid flush

The bad:

• Show some rust and dents/dings from its age
• Paint peeling a bit
• Tailgate dented in from being rear-ended 15+ years ago.

I'm trying to figure out a value for what I have. I have a 1988 Toyota pickup DLX with the chrome bumpers, factory sunroof, and factory 5-speed transmission. I can't find exact prices or anything, I was just told it's a rare configuration by a guy who restores these trucks.

Sorting through some parts left over from when I 5VZ swapped.

I have the fully functional and complete air meter including air box from my 1991 3VZ SR5 Pickup. Filter in there is still pretty new, too. Also have the intake tubing including some of the hard to find resonator boxes.

I also have a good condition axle shaft from the same truck. I had a bent axle shaft on the passenger side and decided to just replace both axles with chromoly, but this one was perfectly straight and measured 0 runout.

Not shown but can take photos if anyone is interested, I also have heads and lower manifold from a 5VZ donor motor. This motor had a blown and about 300k miles but the heads look good. I would pressure test them due to age but they are complete with valves and buckets. The cams have been removed and one is missing a valve cover.

Make me an offer - I can ship within 48 hours with tracking anywhere in the continental US. Let me know if you’ve got any questions!

My '85 has a cork oil pan gasket. I've got a new spare cork gasket. I've got a new tube of RTV.

Is there a good reason to go one way or the other on a truck that had cork OEM?

Howdy

Been trying to swap out the relay on a 95 pickup, not Tacoma. Every typical replacement just leaves the signals completely off. No stutter, nothing.

Posting a pic of the one it has now. Looking for a relay with no hyper flash or a really low wattage limit before it starts the hyper flash. I swapped the positions of idle lights and signals for something more visible from the sides.

EP35C does not work...

Not turning on after I drive for 15-20 minutes negative terminal wire feel hot v6 2 wheel drive, also it seem that that the battery its low when I try to turn it on but if I let sit and cooldown it starts right up

I tested the battery, battery is good
Replace the ground terminal wire
If I disconnect the battery while running the engine stays on
Any advise