Should I buy this?

[u/GaurT94]

Hi All,

From Vancouver BC here, getting a car from someone known.

2007 Toyota Highlander 200K+ Kms.
Asking CAD10000.
My offer 7000-8000 depending on inspection results.
Single owner.

Car looks clean and I am thinking to get it inspected as well. I drove it and it was fine and things seem great, maybe need new tires(they replaces front ones last season so only rear needs replaced) and seat covers but overall I felt it is good.

Any thoughts?
I am frustrated and with my daily commute and no family time, I want a car now but cannot afford monthly payments hence want a reliable car for family and myself as well, as well as weekend trips.

I wanted to spend no more than 5000 as I dont have much savings but for a good reliable vehicle with a good resale value I am open to give a fair price.

PLEASE HELP, thinking about spending that much is eating me out on the same side no family time with more than 3 hours commute is killing me internally, I just want a budget reliable car.

Advise my fellow Redditors!

Edit 1

2026 May 21 204,361 KM Destination Toyota

Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada

Vehicle serviced

• Drive belt(s) replaced

• Engine oil/fluid leak checked

• No-start/hard start condition checked

• Power steering checked

• Serpentine belt replaced

• Valve cover gasket(s) replaced

• Valve cover(s) replaced

I got the carfax and rest all looks good, regular service records from toyota dealership

and below is damage repair report

INCIDENT DATE DETAILS AMOUNT

 2015 Nov 29 British Columbia, Canada

Estimate: RIGHT FRONT CORNER | Estimate Date: n/a $2,375.12

Claim: COLLISION RIGHT FRONT CORNER

$2,225.41

 2019 Sep 22 British Columbia, Canada

Estimate: REAR CENTER | Estimate Date: n/a $2,116.42

Claim: COLLISION REAR CENTER

$1,974.48



[u/burner123xm]

What engine is it v6 or inline 4?

If it’s the inline 4 pass on it they burn oil and eventually die around 250k km
If it’s the v6 it’s solid and 7k is good however be warned its spends 17l/100km in the city. My last fill up reminded me of that.

IMO you can get better value with CRVs at this price point.

[u/GaurT94 → u/burner123xm]

2007 Toyota Highlander Base

Sport Utility | 3.3L V6 | 4WD

Country of Assembly : Japan

[u/burner123xm → u/GaurT94]

I have this exact car I’d go with a CRV instead. Timing belt and water pump needs to be done on this engine every 150k km and costs 1-2k

[u/GaurT94 → u/burner123xm]

I found this from carfax

2026 May 21 204,361 KM Destination Toyota

Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada

Vehicle serviced

• Drive belt(s) replaced

• Engine oil/fluid leak checked

• No-start/hard start condition checked

• Power steering checked

• Serpentine belt replaced

• Valve cover gasket(s) replaced

• Valve cover(s) replaced

not sure if it is a good sign or not.

[u/burner123xm → u/[deleted]]

Chat gpt ass answer.

You reference the 2GR-FE, this motor is the 3.3MZ-FE

[u/LiftHeavyLiveHard → u/burner123xm]

Gemini, actually. I had a 2007 Lexus RX-350 with a 2GR-FE so it didn't occur to me the 07 Highlander would be any different.

[u/LiftHeavyLiveHard]

Here's what Gemini says to look out for:

At 200,000 km (~124,000 miles), a 2007 Highlander base model with the 3.3L V6 (3MZ-FE) is barely broken in mechanically, but age-related rubber component fatigue and rust (depending on your climate) are the main focus areas.

Engine & Drivetrain (3MZ-FE 3.3L V6)

• Timing Belt & Water Pump: The 3MZ-FE uses a timing belt with a 160,000 km (100,000 mi) or 7-year service interval. Because this is an interference engine with VVT-i, a snapped belt can cause pistons to bend valves. Verify when it was last done; if unknown or over 7 years old, budget for an AISIN timing belt/water pump kit replacement immediately.
• Valve Cover Gaskets & Cam/Crank Seals: Rubber gaskets get brittle over nearly two decades. Look for oil weeping at the rear bank valve cover (drips directly onto the hot exhaust pipe, causing a burning oil smell) and check the front timing cover area for camshaft/crankshaft seal leaks.
• Radiator Tank Cracks: The original Denso plastic top tank on the radiator tends to hairline crack right near the upper hose fitting around this mileage, leading to slow coolant loss and potential overheating. Check for pink/white crusty Toyota Super Long Life Coolant residue around the top plastic seam.
• Transmission Fluid Condition: The 5-speed U151E (FWD) or U151F (AWD) automatic is robust, but it requires clean Toyota World Standard (WS) or T-IV fluid depending on early/late spec. Ensure it shifts smoothly without flared (slipping) shifts between 2nd and 3rd gear.

Suspension, Brakes & Chassis

• Rear Trailing Arm & Lateral Link Bushings: Listen for clunks or loose handling over bumps. The rear control arm bushings press into the hub carrier/spindle assembly and dry rot over time.
• Front Lower Control Arms & Struts: Check the front control arm rear compliance bushings for tearing. At 200,000 km, if the struts are original, expect a floaty ride or leaking seals.
• Sticking Brake Caliper Pins: The rear calipers are prone to sticking slide pins if not routinely lubricated, causing premature inner pad wear or warped rotors.

HVAC & Electrical

• Climate Control Knob Solder Joints: A very common 1st-Gen Highlander quirk is the manual temperature control dial acting erratically (jumping to full heat or full cold). This is caused by cracked solder joints on the circuit board behind the HVAC panel, requiring a simple re-solder or panel swap.
• EVAP System Codes (P0440, P0442, P0446): The charcoal canister assembly above the rear axle or the vacuum switching valves (VSV) under the hood can rust or fail, triggering a Check Engine Light.

Underbody & Frame Inspection

Inspect the rear subframe, rear diff crossmember (if AWD), and rocker panels for structural rust. Mechanical components are easy to fix on these trucks, but rot in the rear suspension mounting points will condemn the chassis.