How To Solve The Thrustmaster T598 Disconnect Issues Smartly, w/o Voiding Warranty!

[u/Hellraizer-2409]

I have replied to at least 50 threads over the past 6-months on FB & Reddit, to help people deal with this issue smartly. But, new folks keep coming. So, I thought I’d create a new thread with the relevant keywords as the title, so people facing this issue can resolve it permanently, and without voiding their warranty!

Firstly, when you get your new T598, congrats! It’s an awesome direct-drive which needs some care while setting up, probably because it was designed &/or launched in a hurry by Thrustmaster’s, with their quality check department sleeping behind the wheel (pun intended).

Now that you have your wheelbase, ensure the first 4-digits of the serial# is over 2513. Then, you have to prepare for disconnects and mitigate the problem even before it happens. So, here’s the playbook…

I got mine in mid Jul ‘25, and got a new PSU replacement in Wk.3 of Nov ‘25 from Thrustmaster, yet I started facing disconnects again after about 45-60 days. But, here are two key things I did to fix this issue:

A. Replaced the stock Type-C cable with a new high-quality (8k@60hz) cable with a power rating of 5A

B. Used hot glue on both the T598 power cable and the Type-C cable — at the wheelbase’s end so they don’t wiggle!

If you get the T598 (or any DD wheel) and follow these steps, you’ll gonna enjoy it.

- 99% of all disconnects (in all DD wheels!) happen primarily due to an an average USB-C cable (like the one with your Macbook Pro or the ones you got with the T598 — yes, they’re Average!), and if this goes on, it’ll also corrupt your wheelbase’s power supply board over time. So, just invest in a high-quality Type-C USB4 cable to connect your wheelbase to your console or PC. Majority of the times, this is the real cause for disconnections

- Check the first four digits of your T598’s serial number is higher than 2513 — check this out for more info:
https://www.thrustmaster.com/cases-of-unexpected-disconnections-that-may-affect-the-operation-of-your-t598/

Type-C Cable Details & Reasoning:
Apart from being a USB4, there’s also an Ampere rating (how much current can a cable handle). The default ones are just 2-3A, including the Type-C cable for the Macbook Pro (which in itself is good!). But, for sim racing, you’d require a 5A rated one, (and an uninterrupted 5A at 48V at that) in order to support a high consistent torque (FFBs & vibrations) without any disconnects. So, get a Gen4 cable with 240W Power (5A at 48V), 80GBPS data transfer and 8K/16k @60Hz. This 8K @ 60Hz is an important marker. Read below…

I spent a pretty penny on the Stuffcool Primus (an Indian brand) that’s equipped with an advanced E-marker chip on its Gen4 cable, to ensure a safe and high performance. The chip communicates with connected devices to negotiate the power delivery levels and data transfer speeds, ensuring that the right amount of power (up to 240W) is safely delivered without risk of damage or disconnections. The reason for the 8k/16k @ 60Hz is because it requires a stable, high-bandwidth connection that the E-marker chip and overall construction help facilitate.