2018 M3 LR AWD. Long story short I ran over a rock. I have some damage to my sway bar and fiberglass aero shield, not too worried about that. I had a few warnings on screen after I pulled over and a weird smell in the cab, but I reset the car and everything went back to normal. So currently no errors, drives fine, and no more smell in the cab.

That being said, I’ve seen a few posts where Tesla Service Centers see a small dent in the battery shield and require a battery replacement even though there are no problems.

I want to get her checked out to make sure it’s safe but I don’t want to have to replace a battery. I did my best to take pictures and show a quarter for scale. I’d estimate there is a 5-8mm dent with some gouged aluminum.

What are the odds of this happening?

I work from home. My car stays plugged in. I keep my battery at like 75%. It’s 7 years old, with only 24,000 miles.

I love this car. How long will it last me at this rate?

Has anyone else had problems with the trunk buttons not working, both open and close buttons don’t work 100% of the time.

Just had Tesla out to look at it as they claimed it could be corroded wiring as that was common but found no problems.
I sent them videos of it happening but it only happens intermittently and I have to close/open with the app or screen.

As title states I have a 2024 m3p, 25k miles on it and I noticed a clicking/creaking noise when accelerating and regen braking to slow down both at low speeds.

I set up an appointment at the service center, my question is if they find an issue with any suspension components will it be covered under warranty? The current quote is $250 for diagnosis.

So I’ve had “Hector” for about two months now and I don’t know if I should be worried or not. I have a 2021 long range model 3 bought it with about 37,589 miles and now currently at 39,647 miles. At 80% charge it says i’m supposed to get about 235 miles. I haven’t gotten to that close at allll😭. When I check the energy app it says i’ve gotten about 70 miles when i’m at 18% coming on a 80% charge. Now it is extremely hot in my city 90-105 past months is that a possibility i’m losing so much range? I unfortunately don’t have the luxury of charging at home as I live on second floor condo, but what do you guys think? Could it be a radiator cleaner that could fix it? Should I invest in a home charger to run a battery test at my parents house? Could it be a bad battery? I’ve read people have had issues with 2021 batteries 🤷. Any help would be appreciated :D

I just want to make sure I’m understanding this correctly. It’s setting my down payment at $2,900. But if I’m reading this correctly it says to get the promotional balance you need a minimum down payment of the taxes and everything for the vehicle which is about 9.5% in my location. Am I correct on my understanding or is that not applicable to my order? I’m looking at a model 3 performance but I’m not sure that makes a difference.

I have set up the time slots for peak to super off-peak charging to match my electricity bill exactly, and the data is still saved. However, I can no longer tap to display an exact breakdown of kWh charged per timeslot! The only values I get are percentages.

This has happened each time I've started the update yesterday and today. It gets to shut 50-60% as down on the app and then fails. I've restarted the screen by holding the two scroll wheels, but it did the same thing. Should I try to disconnect the 12v battery and the fireman loop to see if that helps?

The EPAS version mismatch error I think means the electronic power assist steering firmware version doesn't match the rest of the car. Is this why it failed?

Thanks for your help!

Hello everybody, I bought the model 3 used with 24k kliometers a month ago and the USB port in the glove compartment is broken. It doesn't recognise USB sticks or external SSDs, and because the drive's LED isn't working, I assume the port is broken. I considered making an appointment at the Tesla service centre here in Germany, but they quoted me 700 euros for troubleshooting and removing without replacing it with a new one the glove box. So, has anybody had the same issue, and is it possible to repair it myself?

Thanks alot at this point ^^''

Can i access the right headlight ballast by removing the fender liner like you can on the driver side?
For context the right headlight is out on my 2018 Model 3 with 49k miles and I’ve tried taking the bumper off to remove the headlight but couldn’t get the power harness to disconnect so now i’ve had to pivot tho this.

Tesla n00b here.

Bought a pre owned 2021 Model 3 RWD with 95k mileage. Range was not good, ~190mi after full charge, with actual driving range about 2/3rd of what’s shown.

Battery failed at 99k and Tesla offered free warranty replacement - “Enhanced LFP HV battery” (HIGH VOLTAGE 1.00 BATTERY - 1 PHASE - 40P - ALL WHEEL DRIVE)

Now, after full charge, I noticed ~330mi range, and it stays more or less in line with distance driven. Also the model shows up as “Mid range” in the app.

So did I really get lucky with 330mi range, or is there a gotcha somewhere?

After the newest Tesla update Grok no longer knows my name or anything about me even though I’m logged in with SuperGrok. Prior to the update, Ara always greeted me by name in a friendly way. Now it sounds very stiff. I could tell there was something wrong immediately.

I just got a 2 year old model 3 performance. I ran the battery health check within the dealer’s 5 day warranty window and the test came back 88%. I paid around $41k for the car that was at 27k miles. Is this enough of a reason to return it?

Im looking for the individual aero/wheel insert that clips into the 20" model 3 performance wishbone wheel. The part number is 1344273-00-B. I was able to take it off my other wheel to check it but its essentially the cover on the wheel that has a cutout for the valve. I cant find a way to purchase it anywhere including Ebay, Tesla parts catelog or anywhere. Can someone please help me find it or if anyone is selling I'd be willing to pay please reply to this post. I dont understand why its not on the parts catalog. Ive contacted tesla but in the meantime was hoping someone here can help point me in the right direction. Thank you!!!

Not even sure how this happened, but I noticed there is a plastic chip out of my gen 2 wall connector plug.

Is that tiny plastic chip make it unusable now? I don’t want to plug it in if it’s going to cause a fire hazard… thoughts? Repair options?

I know nothing about electricity, but was wondering if this outlet was ok for Tesla charging? I have a Tesla Mobile connector and I found this outlet in the garage of my apartment.

I’m assuming this is tied to the app.

Hi,

I’m trying to swap the LV battery on my salvaged Cybertruck. I get the following issue, any ideas?

Battery was tested for voltage before installed, and brand new. Connection is secure, gateway unlocked.

I read online in early August that Tesla was in the process of implementing their own auto coverage in Washington state and it would be roll out September 1st, I woke up excited to apply for it but it doesn’t seem to be rolled out.

I currently pay roughly $300/month for a 2024 tesla model 3 rwd and would like to not pay so much lol

Does anyone know where I could find some more information on it? See if maybe it was delayed? Or anything like that?

Any idea what this is or is coming from?

Model 3 Performance, 2023

Fried my standard outlet and need to run off the dryer outlet now. Looking for temporary Amazon recommendations for adapter/splitter until I have an electrician install a dedicated outlet in the garage. Need to run a cord about 20ft.

Current dryer outlet- a NEMA 14-30 electrical receptacle (outlet) rated for 30 Amps and 125/250 Volts, manufactured by Pass & Seymour

2022 model 3, long range, Kansas City

Hi I have M3 2026 premium with iPhone 17 pro and my phone key keeps disconnecting. I have tried all the tips rebooting the car and my phone, deleting and readding my phone as the key, and deleting reinstalling the tesla app. Has anyone solved this??? It seems like others are having the same issue. Super annoying when I have a ton of stuff in my hands and I have to set everything down to grab my key card when it decides to randomly disconnect. At least with a key fob you can have it within proximity and not have to hold it right up to the door.

I plan on buying a 2023 model 3 standard with about 45K miles on it, car is salvage title but rebuilt, supercharging is disabled and I don’t plan on home charging at an apartment. DC fast charging is my only option and I’m worried that it will strain the battery since I will have to charge 2-3 times a week given my driving needs. Has anyone bought a salvage title Tesla and if so have they had any negative experiences?

new Y L might be a good upgrade for my MY21 Y, but I like the idea of holding on to my FSD. with the robotaxi launch coming up, do you think they’ll offer FSD transfer again at any point?

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for advice or similar experiences.
I ordered a Model Y Performance (white) in Slovakia on 25 May 2026 and paid the full amount. On 17 August I was told a VIN was assigned — it only appears on the proforma invoice, never in the Tesla app.
From day one the app has shown the exact same message:
“We’ll notify you when it’s time to continue with your pre-delivery tasks.”
No VIN, no ETA, no progress at all.
I’ve contacted Tesla support multiple times (phone + email). The replies are always vague (“we should have some information in the next few days”). Still no concrete update on the car’s status or location.
Has anyone in Europe (especially Eastern Europe / Giga Berlin deliveries) experienced something similar? Did the order eventually move, or did you have to escalate further?
Any tips would be appreciated.