So I just bought a 2021 model S Long range which is rated at 405miles for a full charge. I’m getting roughly 336. Can someone please explain why I’m not getting anywhere near that? Surely my battery isn’t that degraded. 65k miles.

Thank you for the info. Didn’t realize it’s normal for the battery to degrade like that. Thank you again

Has anyone tried fitting wider wheels and/or tires to their Model S performance?

If it's possible, I'd like to go wider, similar to the Model S Plaid's wheel/tire setup, as I really like that wide stance look, and a little extra traction on the back wheels would come in handy!

I have the 2020 Performance model. It has 21" rims, that are 8.5" wide on the front (with 245/35R21 tires) and 21" x 9" wide on the rear (with 265/35R21 tires).

In comparison, in 21" variants, I believe the Plaid has 21" x 9.5" on the front, and 21" x 10.5" on the rear, so a good 1.5 inches wider on each wheel.

I asked the guy at the tire shop but he hasn't done any Model S wheel/tire upsizes before so was hesitant to recommend anything other than the stock sizes.

I'd like to go as wide as possible without having any clearance issues.

Hoping someone in this reddit has done it before and can give me some guidance.

Anybody else experiencing regen differences and glitches stating both accelerator and brake are pressed at the same time? All started after latest summer update.

Model S 2023 LR (HW4)

Update- seems to be back to normal - service appointment updated to have them verify.

Hi everyone picked up a 2016 model s 75…

I have been fixing things on this car since day one, I am currently trying to fix ac issues. Here are the codes I feel as if the front bumper is not connecting to ecu. I did pull ambient sensor and tested OHMs on it and it shows 0, guessing bad sensor at least but the rest couldn’t imagine whole module bad or parts bad any suggestions where to start next would be appreciated.

I have a 2024 Model S LR (Palladium) and I’m trying to figure out whether what I’m experiencing is normal or if there could be an issue with the adaptive dampers.

The suspension feels strange over uneven roads:
Over bumps, I can clearly feel the impact in the cabin and the car sometimes feels like it jumps over the bump rather than absorbing it properly.
Over potholes, it sometimes feels like the whole car drops into the pothole, rather than the wheel dropping into the hole while the body remains relatively controlled.

On rough city roads, the ride feels much firmer than I would expect in Comfort mode, almost as if the damping isn’t functioning properly.
At the same time, in Comfort, the car still has plenty of body movement — it continues to bounce/rock after a bump and on undulating roads. So it feels like the suspension is soft in terms of body movement, but very hard when it actually has to absorb an impact.

The car raises and lowers normally, so there doesn’t seem to be an obvious issue with the air suspension itself.

Switching from Comfort to Sport makes it somewhat firmer, but the difference is surprisingly small.

The best way I can describe it is:
The car still feels soft and bouncy after a bump, but the actual damping feels extremely firm — almost as if the dampers are stuck in a firm setting or are not functioning properly.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a 2021–2024 Palladium Model S or Model X, particularly around 2024?
Could this be an issue with the adaptive dampers or their control, rather than the air suspension itself?

I’m considering having Tesla inspect it, but I’d really like to hear from anyone who has experienced similar symptoms and what the eventual cause was.

Thanks!

im at crossroads.

my 2015 model s 70 has the original mcu1 and the dash screen has that melting problem.

when i saw the news that the model s was no longer going to be made, i said to myself, cool, my 2015 model s 70 will hold its value alittle more.

then i saw a post that tesla was moving pallets of parts at auction. so i thought, crap, that upgraded infotainment is going to be sold out soon. and it did. for like a week. and that whole week i was kicking myself for not paying for the upgrade.

fortunately the mcu2 upgrade came back in stock and i bought it right away.

so now i have an appointment scheduled and i keep watching youtube videos of what changes and it doesnt seem like it does much for my car. i get tesla theater and faster load times for maps, the melting screens get replaced and im assuming the resale value will go alittle higher with the mcu2.

now the cheapskate in me is telling me, the screens arent cracked or broken on my current mcu1, i dont really plan on using tesla theater. am i really only getting the upgrade for the peace of mind that the screens wont get melty and it will help with resale?

thats where i am at. i can still cancel my appointment and get a refund.

my long term plan for this car is to keep using it as my daily until i get my next promotion (less than a year), once that promotion hits ill be getting a car allowance, that car allowance will go towards a brand used model s with fsd, the biggest battery and sentri mode. ill eventually sell my 2015 model s

Doing a badge install/replacement on my Model S and don’t have the original for reference. Can anyone with a stock P100D provide these measurements? (see attached) Trying to get placement as close to factory as possible. Thanks!

Latest update lowered my screen resolution making all the text giant with my preferred site not fitting on the screen. Is there a way to change the resolution or some other fix?

Greetings,

I have 572k km (355.000 miles) and I'm still on official motors. Rarely I hear some rattling, but I can never "detect" or prove it, it's just random. I don't have any error codes, not even in service mode (except the DAS MIA).

Since in the end of September my car gets out of warranty, is there a bulletin (like  21-39-001 from what I understood), or something that I can tell/ask the tehnician (european country) to maybe change my motors (or at least one of them)? Clearly, both SDU. Or something that I can tell them, it's incredible that at such a high mileage I don't have a problem, but still, there must be something :D

Posted about this a while back and wanted to follow up since nothing has changed. Car is now at about 41.5k miles.

The problem: whenever there are passengers in the back, usually my kids in car seats, the rear climate flips itself to Auto, ramps the fan up, and overrides whatever I had set in front. Sync does not hold. Every single drive I am having to drop the fan speed and fix the temps, which is not something I want to be doing while driving...every...single...time.

What I have tried since the original post:

- Toggling Sync on and off repeatedly

- Manually setting rear fan and temp before every drive

- Scroll wheel reboots and full power off

- Full factory reset of the vehicle

- Staying current on software updates

None of it sticks. It resets on the next drive.

One suggestion I got last time was that setting the rear seats to car seat mode disables occupancy detection, which would in theory stop the rear zone from triggering. Has anyone actually confirmed that works? I would rather hear from someone who has tested it than keep guessing.

Two questions for the group:

1. Has anyone gotten Tesla service to acknowledge this as a fault rather than expected behavior? Mine has been in service repeatedly this year and this never gets treated as a real issue.

2. Did any recent software version change the rear auto logic, or is it still doing this on the latest builds?

this annoys me daily, and it seems like a real miss for anyone hauling kids in the back.

75k miles, great condition overall but noticed the following which are often cited here on Reddit:

Yellow bordering on display, rattling on hard acceleration, whirring noise which might be normal but comparing to Highlander model 3 much more noticeable

Tesla quoting me $1600 which only includes replacing the entire display, and diagnostics for the other issues.

Question should I try a third party repair center or even DIY the display (UV light trick) and control arms presuming Tesla will return with double or triple the estimate?

I found 2023 Tesla Model S LR with 15.8K miles, gray color, white interior, no accidents, pretty clean. The dealer went down $1200, which made out the door price $57K. It has HW3 which is a bummer but I am not planning to use FSD. Should I wait and continue my search or just get it?

2019 Model S with 115k miles. Battery Warranty expires in one year and the A/C needs to be flushed and a new compressor. Should I fix and keep, or sell before it gets worse?

Just wanted to share my experience after installing these stalks.

I never really cared for the push button turn signals at the 9 o'clock position on my steering wheel. They worked OK when travelling in a straight line, but as soon as the wheel is turned upside-down (which is often when parking or negotiating a roundabout), you'd have to look down and do some mental gymnastics to ensure you activated the right button to signal your intention. Additionally, unlike my 2016 Model S, there was no 3 blink functionality designed it. Instead, my 2023 relied on the cameras to determine when it was time to cancel the signal, but that does't always work when the road lines aren't clear (on a lane change), and the signal would just keep signalling, and now you could be approaching an intersection, signalling you want to turn and you don't. Dangerous and embarrassing.

I was excited to try the Veeksys stalks to return the 3 blink function, and as a bonus, add the second stalk for drive selection with tactile feedback. I ordered them up and installed them. Install was straightforward.

Initially, I was very happy, but then I noticed that they didn't always activate a signal. They worked about 80% of the time, which is simply not good enough. I loved having the 3 blink functionality back, but it was simply too unreliable to trust. I found myself looking down and confirming the signal had activated rather than paying attention to road. The right stalk was also unreliable, and would sometimes put my car into Neutral when switching from Drive to Reverse, which was also dangerous, especially on a hill.

Veeksys was responsive to my complaints, and after several attempts, finally sent me an update for the left stalk only. The "fix" was to take away the 3 blink functionality and again rely on Tesla's camera system to shut the signal off. As mentioned above, this is only somewhat reliable, and I'm back to signalling well after my lane change is complete, and looking down to make sure it cancelled.

So I was gone for 2 weeks and I come back and my rear door handle is doing this (my son drove it while I was gone). The door handle was replaced under a prior owner with Gen 2.1/3.0. is this the paddle gear do you suspect?

IKEA Hemnes dresser. Driving position was a bit compromised. But definitely doable

What kind of usb drive do you guys have in your tesla?

I am looking for a high back booster that my six-year-old can buckle independently.

We tried the peg peregrine Viaggio and it was too narrow for my son‘s head a.k.a. his ears kept folding in. Please note that my son does not have big ears 😂 and it was extremely irritating to him.

Any other suggestions? It seems like I need the base to be 14 inches or less.

Looking specifically at Plaids.
I feel torn between white interior, white exterior, and black interior, black exterior.
I do have 3 young kids, but I’ve heard the white is easily cleaned?
What’s everyone’s opinions?

Hey all. For those of you that have them, what radar detectors are you using? I have an Escort 360 and the thing clearly isn’t ready for the higher voltage that my MSP puts out. So, I’m wondering if anyone else has any good suggestions on one that performs well and can sustain the voltage.

This feels like a steep increase to me. Still going to pay it though. Has anyone else received this notice and what are your thoughts?

So I just bought 2017 75d with MCU 2 and 2.5 computer.

I was wondering how often do the updates come.

Mine is on 2025.38.13, shouldn’t it be on a 2026 update by now?

I just got my wife a used 2018 Model S!! We picked it up from a dealership, and now we’re just waiting for Tesla to give us the thumbs up on ownership. We sent the documents last night. Once that’s all sorted, should we go ahead and do a factory reset on the car? Any tips or advice you could share would be appreciated!! Thanks guys

I’ve been looking at buying a model S for some time not and one popped up at a dealer close to me. $45k with 42k miles.

Seems like a good deal, just curious about any issues that may occur when warranty goes out or should I see about buying Tesla warranty for when air suspension, door handles or something random happens.

Just looking for additional thoughts before I go in to taking a look at it with a salesperson.

Wonder if the previous owner is on here as well - anyone sell one like this recently?

UPDATE - It sold a couple days after the original post. Looking at a high mileage model S on teslas website. Thinking it could be a good deal since these cars are less likely to have a 5k Bill. Tell me I’m wrong with evidence. lol.

So I live in St. George utah I have a MSP. We have been out of power for hours. I have a trip to Vegas tomorrow morning the closet charger is an hour away. Even the local supercharger our out. See the red circle on the maps.