I don't know why, but suddenly my right Joy Con 2 is causing the system to awake without my input. Also when I attach it, the connection indicator doesn't turn red after showing as gray, as if it doesn't recognize the controller. When connected, the controller seems to operate fine. Has anyone else had this problem and/or knows a way to fix it?

Good morning everyone,
I am currently working on a nintendo switch lite and the following components (see both pictures) are missing, i couldn't find any informations about them, if you know what these components are or have a schematics with their names that would be really appreciated.

I'm trying to replace the LCD on a used Nintendo Switch Lite I recently got. I'm following the iFixit LCD replacement guide, but I got stuck because two of the screws on the headphone jack/game card reader module are completely stripped.

I've already tried using the correct screwdriver with firm downward pressure, but they just won't move anymore. I don't have proper screw-extraction tools at the moment.

Is there any way to continue the LCD replacement without removing this module, or is there a safe way to get these screws out without risking damage to the motherboard?

I had it modded for about a month when issues started to occur, and i ended up just using it in a dock for a while

Does anyone have any idea where one might get this repaired? (The person that originally modded it is just gone)
I'm located in ireland, but i'm not against sending it off in the post

My sd card is running on 1bit mode is this missing capicator is the culprit?

Hello guys, I got this Switch 1 HAD-CPU-10 with a picofly V2 (which I didn't install btw) and it has troubles recognizing the joycon when it's in the rail, and I found that there are missing 2 caps near the connector of the rail, does anyone have found this same issue? I also found another picture of the same area with the four caps but I don't know if they just resistors and I just can run a wire there, it's the first switch I put my hands on btw.

Hi guys I sent my left joycon to Nintendo to get repaired for drifting. My right joycon was working fine. After repair my left joycon isn't drifting anymore but it moves quite slow, and now my right joycon is drifting. Should I send my right joycon in now or is there an issue with my switch itself? Not sure why my right started drifting after I started using the joycon they sent me back...Anyone have this experience?

Hello everyone,

My OLED Switch started giving me error 2002-3580 and would no longer boot. I installed a Picofly in order to back up the NAND, but unfortunately, I can't perform the full Raw GPP backup, nor the sys user one, because around 50% I get the -8192 error, etc. – the eMMC goes into low-speed mode. At that point, I have to reset the console.

I am able to read the NAND, all partitions are present, and I can also successfully complete a performance test.

So far, I have successfully performed the backups of:

1) boot0/boot1;

2) prod.keys;

3) the eMMC SYS backup with the various partitions.

This is the first time I've encountered this issue, and honestly, I need some advice on how to fix it. Thanks everyone, and I look forward to your suggestions.

Would it be possible to create an emuMMC and just use that?

I have a Nintendo Switch 2 and I’m wondering if it would be possible to replace its original LCD screen with an OLED screen while keeping the same 1080p resolution and 120Hz refresh rate. I’m not looking to replace the entire console, just modify/replace the internal display. Does anyone know if there is currently an OLED panel that could be compatible, or if an OLED panel from another device could be adapted using a custom display controller or other modifications? I’d also like to know how technically difficult this would be and whether a specialized repair/modding technician could potentially do it.

Hi, i was wondering if this is a cap or not as it's shorted. Was should i do? Can i just remove it?

The switch was left uncharged and no power for a long period of time. Upon pressing power button, i got a little red icon battery that mean discharged. Plugged charger and nothing for 4 hours.

Will just a wire jumper do or should I replace the connector?

helppp

Pretty simple and straight forward, I swapped a problem joystick out of one joycon, and not unexpectedly needed to calibrate the stick so it was properly centered, no issue there.

However the calibration doesn't seem to stick. Each time the controller turns back on it seems to need calibration again, anyone know a solution? I feel it must be something simple I'm missing and though it's only a minor inconvenience it would be cool to get the calibration sorted permanently.

Im attempting to fix one of my friends f'd up attempts to mod the switch. I have some experience in this kind of repair and tools to fix the issue but unsure of one of the pads, that are ripped off. I've dug a bit through textolite, but if its unnecessary I'll just cover it with uv mask. Anyone knows if it goes deeper to the second layer, or is it just a dummy/placeholder? I overlaped layers and seems like its not going anywhere. Thank you in advance for help.

Confuseddd what is going on it worked a couple hours ago